Torch head died all of a sudden

BSej

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Hello,

I purchased a torch (not sure what kind). It has two heads and has been doing fine for about a month. Just a couple days ago one of the heads closed up, and I didn't think anything of it. It's now dead. I have two other torches, goni, frogspawn, mushroom, rock anemone, and some kind of monti in the tank doing fine.

The salinity and alkalinity were a bit low (about 30ppt and 7.8dKH). I've been raising them now. These are the parameters:

Salinity - 32ppt
Calcium - 440ppm
Alkalinity - 7.8dKH
Nitrates - 10ppm
Phosphates - 0ppm

I've attached a picture where you can see one of the heads is dead. (the green guy)

IMG_8304.jpeg
 
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VintageReefer

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That salinity translates to 1.024 which is a little low but not fatal. Success of other torches shows conditions are favorable for euphyllia. If flow and lighting are not drastically different in that spot compared to other torch locations (and I assume due to close proximity they are the same) then I would say it’s stress from changing systems or arrived sick.

How did it die? Did it slowly degrade? Rapidly ? Did it happen overnight ? There’s a stress response known as polyp bail out where the polyp/head detached from the skeleton, happens fast. Usually over a day or so.
 
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BSej

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That salinity translates to 1.024 which is a little low but not fatal. Success of other torches shows conditions are favorable for euphyllia. If flow and lighting are not drastically different in that spot compared to other torch locations (and I assume due to close proximity they are the same) then I would say it’s stress from changing systems or arrived sick.

How did it die? Did it slowly degrade? Rapidly ? Did it happen overnight ? There’s a stress response known as polyp bail out where the polyp/head detached from the skeleton, happens fast. Usually over a day or so.
The one head just didn't open all the way. I didn't think anything of it because sometimes they just do that and bounce back. I would say it went from full extension to dead in about 4 days.
 

Leadfooted

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That salinity translates to 1.024 which is a little low but not fatal. Success of other torches shows conditions are favorable for euphyllia. If flow and lighting are not drastically different in that spot compared to other torch locations (and I assume due to close proximity they are the same) then I would say it’s stress from changing systems or arrived sick.

How did it die? Did it slowly degrade? Rapidly ? Did it happen overnight ? There’s a stress response known as polyp bail out where the polyp/head detached from the skeleton, happens fast. Usually over a day or so.
Zero PO4 not a concern?
 

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If no fish nipping, sounds like it somehow got an infection or arrived with one that it couldn’t fight off. They are a sensitive species…when healthy they generally are pretty tough, but if something happens, or it’s in an injured state they can decline rapidly. Could have even been a bite from a fish testing if the new addition is food or not.

Keep an eye on that other head for similar symptoms and if it starts to do the same stuff, try a lugols dip asap
 

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Zero PO4 not a concern?
Other torches look good, I suspect there is phosphate just test kit is not sensitive enough to detect. Seems to be one off issue compared to systemwide problems. If truly zero, most coral would be affected and showing symptoms of starving / declining
 

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I would say that it’s a good idea to work on that and increase feeding, or dose phosphates, but zero phosphates would be a longer term decline, not cause one head on one torch to completely die in 4 days
 

PharmrJohn

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I would say that it’s a good idea to work on that and increase feeding, or dose phosphates, but zero phosphates would be a longer term decline, not cause one head on one torch to completely die in 4 days
Thanks for the input brother.
 
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BSej

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If no fish nipping, sounds like it somehow got an infection or arrived with one that it couldn’t fight off. They are a sensitive species…when healthy they generally are pretty tough, but if something happens, or it’s in an injured state they can decline rapidly. Could have even been a bite from a fish testing if the new addition is food or not.

Keep an eye on that other head for similar symptoms and if it starts to do the same stuff, try a lugols dip asap
There are no fish in the tank. Only one fire shrimp and cuc/urchin. I feed almost every day.
 

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There are no fish in the tank. Only one fire shrimp and cuc/urchin. I feed almost every day.
Interesting! Are you gonna keep it a just coral set up? I've thought about doing something like this with a 10 or 20g tank.......LOL, probably 10g, cause I'd end up being tempted otherwise!
 
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BSej

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Interesting! Are you gonna keep it a just coral set up? I've thought about doing something like this with a 10 or 20g tank.......LOL, probably 10g, cause I'd end up being tempted otherwise!
I am using it for coral quarantine right now to rid of ich/flukes etc. before moving them to my display. This tank is for my girlfriend, so I'm moving it out to her place and buying some fish after we build a stand for it.
 

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I am using it for coral quarantine right now to rid of ich/flukes etc. before moving them to my display. This tank is for my girlfriend, so I'm moving it out to her place and buying some fish after we build a stand for it.
That's cool! My wife likes the beauty of a DT, but is not even remotely interested in the maintenance. If I made her a tank, she'd just roll her eyes and comment that it is really for me. And there's some truth to that! You're a good guy. Instead of getting her flowers, you put together something really special. Kudos Dude.
 

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If you want to grow your torch corals, not just keep them alive, my method below produces incredible results. Best of luck and hopefully no more dead heads for you.


Torch success
These are steps I’m taking to maximize growth rate and increase the density of the flesh. I’m still tweaking my method and certainly would like to hear your thoughts on the below
steps. So far, I’m seeing absolutely unreal results with healthy / more lush flesh than I’ve ever had on my euphyllia and Torch’s.
*If you have a Torch that’s receding back into the skeleton head or notice torn flesh around the skeleton head area, please contact Danny at Kung Fu Corals and follow his advice closely.
Here’s the Steps I’m currently taking:


Monday and Wednesday
☀ During Peak of light intensity
Turn off Skimmer
Reduce lighting
Shut off return flow
Reduce internal flow to very low, consider turning some pumps off if you have multiple.
Add Restore directly to display/frag tank (5ml per 100 ) This also helps trigger a positive feeding response.
⏰ Wait 5 minutes then turn off all flow
Spot feed Reef Nutrition “Phyto Feast” mixed with “Oyster feast”and tank water in 3 equal portions. (4ml each part per 50 Gallons). This can be increased based on your nutrient export. **It’s important to spot feed as slow/gentle as possible so majority gets taken in by the coral .
Feed your fish (This helps reduce them from picking at the below coral food) ⏰ Leave all pumps off for 10-15 min
Then turn Internal flow on very low for another 20-30 min, one pump is enough. (*The slower the better)
Turn all flow back on but slowly, don’t just blast the corals with full flow for at least 2 hours after feeding.
⏰ No skimmer/carbon for 4 hours That’s it for Monday and Wednesday.

Tuesday , Thursday and Saturday Turn off Skimmer
Turn off all flow
Reduce Lighting
⏰ Allow water to become completely✋ stagnant.

Feed: Red Sea Reef Energy ab (half suggested amount according to instructions) mixed 50/50 with Tank water.
⏰ Leave all flow off for 15 min
⏰
Turn on internal flow allowing only he slightest water movement. Wait 30-45 minutes allowing corals to soak in the Reef Energy Next Slowly increase all flow and turn on return pump.
⏰ No skimmer/Carbon for 4 hours
That’s it for Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.

Testing: Phosphate / Nitrate / ALKALINITY every other day or every three days
Aim for:
⚗ Phosphate: .06-0.1
⚗ Nitrate: 2-10 PPM
⚗ Alkalinity: 8.4 ( The more stable your AlK, the healthier your corals will be. This is an Extremely crucial component)
I have Not experienced dramatic increases in Nitrate or Phosphate. I have a large Chaeto Ball that helps export nutrients, that’s all I use.
If you’re struggling to maintain desired P04 levels, I’ve had great success with SeaChem’s “Sea Gel”. (Use according to the bottle)
If my nitrate does increase higher than I prefer, I reduce fish feeding for a few days and do a small water change, this usually helps.
Comment on the post and let me know what you think or any suggestions
I do nothing for the corals on Friday and Sunday.

IMG_0258.jpeg
 

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