Torch dying??

[vetteguy53081]

This was a vid when I first got it and that was 2 months ago. Since then I upgraded the lighting to ai prime hd 16. I also got a wave maker. I was using an old power head filter for flow before. I don’t have a log of parameters. I jumped into the hobby before learning all the ins and outs due to lack of knowledge passed down from lfs. I learned a lot from this form and redit. Got a lot of tests and upgrades due to you guys helping. I cycled the tank for a month before adding the gsp and then added the torch two weeks later. Parameters were worse when I got the pho and cal test. Nitrate was also really high. This is the lowest it has been and must be even lower now after using rodi. I fear that my tap was really bad and messing my coral up.View attachment 3125980

This is tissue recession and often due to stress from:
Inadequate light and /or flow.
Low calcium
Location

These euphyllia need moderate to medium flow and medium light. Your light schedule may be insufficient. Additionally skeletal health is important and they need calcium of at least 400 - 450. Too much flow and the tissue can tear off the skeleton. too little light and flow and tissue will recede. Too much light and they expel their energy source known as zooxanthllae. Feeding is also important- I feed mine mysis shrimp.

Try this light schedule:

Cool white 15
royal - 70
violet 50
UV 80
red 4
green 3
blue 75

 

[Uncle99]

Sure ain’t going to like .5ppm phosphate, unless very mature system, then maybe.
I’d target 0.05ppm to say 1.5ppm.

 

[robreefer91]

This is tissue recession and often due to stress from:
Inadequate light and /or flow.
Low calcium
Location

These euphyllia need moderate to medium flow and medium light. Your light schedule may be insufficient. Additionally skeletal health is important and they need calcium of at least 400 - 450. Too much flow and the tissue can tear off the skeleton. too little light and flow and tissue will recede. Too much light and they expel their energy source known as zooxanthllae. Feeding is also important- I feed mine mysis shrimp.

Try this light schedule:

Cool white 15
royal - 70
violet 50
UV 80
red 4
green 3
blue 75

I feel like at this point you helped me so much! I owe you a drink or something. I just put those settings.

 

[robreefer91]

This is tissue recession and often due to stress from:
Inadequate light and /or flow.
Low calcium
Location

These euphyllia need moderate to medium flow and medium light. Your light schedule may be insufficient. Additionally skeletal health is important and they need calcium of at least 400 - 450. Too much flow and the tissue can tear off the skeleton. too little light and flow and tissue will recede. Too much light and they expel their energy source known as zooxanthllae. Feeding is also important- I feed mine mysis shrimp.

Try this light schedule:

Cool white 15
royal - 70
violet 50
UV 80
red 4
green 3
blue 75

I feed the Red Sea ab plus daily and reef roids twice a week. My cal is 420 mag 1920

 

[Dburr1014]

This was a vid when I first got it and that was 2 months ago. Since then I upgraded the lighting to ai prime hd 16. I also got a wave maker. I was using an old power head filter for flow before. I don’t have a log of parameters. I jumped into the hobby before learning all the ins and outs due to lack of knowledge passed down from lfs. I learned a lot from this form and redit. Got a lot of tests and upgrades due to you guys helping. I cycled the tank for a month before adding the gsp and then added the torch two weeks later. Parameters were worse when I got the pho and cal test. Nitrate was also really high. This is the lowest it has been and must be even lower now after using rodi. I fear that my tap was really bad and messing my coral up.View attachment 3125980

I pulled this from your video.



This looked bad when you first got it. That coupled with what looks like a newish tank things wont go well.

Your system is still going though changes. You will have to keep everything stable for you to save this.

List again your parameters but with decimal points. Not; phos was 1 trate was 5...this means nothing.
Po4 is 0.1
No3 is 5.0
Alk is 8.5 dkh; ect, ect, ect.

 

[robreefer91]

I pulled this from your video.

View attachment 3126079

This looked bad when you first got it. That coupled with what looks like a newish tank things wont go well.

Is hope lost?

 

[Dburr1014]

Is hope lost?

I edited my post, take a look. ^^^^^

 

[ReefBoost]

Might be a good idea to hold off on the reef roids til PO4 is down. I believe those can add phosphates pretty quickly in a newer tank.

 

[robreefer91]

I pulled this from your video.

View attachment 3126079

This looked bad when you first got it. That coupled with what looks like a newish tank things wont go well.

Your system is still going though changes. You will have to keep everything stable for you to save this.

List again your parameters but with decimal points. Not; phos was 1 trate was 5...this means nothing.
Po4 is 0.1
No3 is 5.0
Alk is 8.5 dkh; ect, ect, ect.

Cal 420
Phosphate was 1.0 but is now .5
Mag is 1920
Alk is 10.0
Nitrate 5.0
Salt 1.025
Ph8.0
I have nano code b waiting for code a the Brightwell stuff someone also mentioned to me about microbacter 7 to help bring down nitrates and phosphate is that worth it?

 

[vetteguy53081]

I feed the Red Sea ab plus daily and reef roids twice a week. My cal is 420 mag 1920

Mag extremely high- you want 1300-1400. Liquid and powdered foods not an adequate food source for this type of coral. AB+ added to water is fine.
Phos is .5 or .05?

 

[robreefer91]

Mag extremely high- you want 1300-1400. Liquid and powdered foods not an adequate food source for this type of coral. AB+ added to water is fine.
Phos is .5 or .05?

Frozen brine be better? I have that on hand. .5 is the current number as it came down. I am sorry I am wrong I read the chart wrong it is 1290 so I’m guessing it’s low

 

[MERKEY]

You have a lot of help and I will just add that raising your light intensity while having high and fluctuating po4 /parameters will hurt your coral more.

While trying to get your nutrients and tank under control, it's actually better to have a lower intensity so things don't have to deal with the light stress as well as the parameters swinging stress.

Slow and steady in this hobby.

 

[Dburr1014]

Frozen brine be better? I have that on hand. .5 is the current number as it came down. I am sorry I am wrong I read the chart wrong it is 1290 so I’m guessing it’s low

1290 is slight low. Epsome salt with nothing added at the drug store if you don't have any on hand. Mix with rodi, search for randy holmes farley 2 part. It will come up. Mag is the same on all of them.
Po4 is still very high.
How are you lowering it? Yes, stop with reef roids as someone said.
Adding MB7 is not a great way to bring down nutrients. Carbon dosing would be quicker but you only seen to be having trouble with phosphates. Have you thought about gfo? I don't like using it, only in extreme cases.

 

[pandaparties]

I pulled this from your video.

View attachment 3126079

This looked bad when you first got it. That coupled with what looks like a newish tank things wont go well.

Your system is still going though changes. You will have to keep everything stable for you to save this.

List again your parameters but with decimal points. Not; phos was 1 trate was 5...this means nothing.
Po4 is 0.1
No3 is 5.0
Alk is 8.5 dkh; ect, ect, ect.

How in the world did that look bad when he got it? That's like the fleshiest torch frag I've ever seen!

 

[Dburr1014]

How in the world did that look bad when he got it? That's like the fleshiest torch frag I've ever seen!

That looks like skeleton to me. It's bone white. Could be the lighting.
Generally you wouldn't glue a frag to a tile right at the flesh line. You would see some skeleton that turned color then the flesh.
I also see down the middle a dark line that also looks like it's turning dark as if there is no flesh which again, I assume no flesh on the rest of it because there is no flesh/skeletal line.
But again, the lighting and angle could be throwing me off.
Perhaps the OP remembers if there was flesh if he inspected the frag assuming he knows what they was looking at.

If it was fleshy and I'm wrong, then his tank has real problems for it to lose all this flesh in 2 months. I was hoping it wasn't the tank with the problems and they just got a bad frag.

 

[LordofCinder]

what size is the tank? I see the AI16 lights are set at 25%.

I have my AI16 set at 85% on a 15 gallon softie tank.

My first thought is to turn up your lights, to me it sounds like a slow waste-away due to insufficient light.

 

[robreefer91]

what size is the tank? I see the AI16 lights are set at 25%.

I have my AI16 set at 85% on a 15 gallon softie tank.

My first thought is to turn up your lights, to me it sounds like a slow waste-away due to insufficient light.

I have a 20 high. I had recently switched lights so I was trying to acclimate them. I switched it up now.

 

[robreefer91]

That looks like skeleton to me. It's bone white. Could be the lighting.
Generally you wouldn't glue a frag to a tile right at the flesh line. You would see some skeleton that turned color then the flesh.
I also see down the middle a dark line that also looks like it's turning dark as if there is no flesh which again, I assume no flesh on the rest of it because there is no flesh/skeletal line.
But again, the lighting and angle could be throwing me off.
Perhaps the OP remembers if there was flesh if he inspected the frag assuming he knows what they was looking at.

If it was fleshy and I'm wrong, then his tank has real problems for it to lose all this flesh in 2 months. I was hoping it wasn't the tank with the problems and they just got a bad frag.

I didn’t know half of what I know now. There was more flesh then but not by much, it never looked like how I imagined a torch to look at least looking at other torches. That is mostly bone you see when it is on the gray. I think it has been regressing since I got it and I couldn’t tell the signs and my tank wasn’t suited well enough. I am looking to rehabilitate now that I know my torch is dying. It is my fav coral.

 

[Dburr1014]

I didn’t know half of what I know now. There was more flesh then but not by much, it never looked like how I imagined a torch to look at least looking at other torches. That is mostly bone you see when it is on the gray. I think it has been regressing since I got it and I couldn’t tell the signs and my tank wasn’t suited well enough. I am looking to rehabilitate now that I know my torch is dying. It is my fav coral.

Best thing to do now is keep everything stable, alk, especially.
Try to get a randow flow but not too harsh. Random flow helps to wash away waste from the coral.

Get it to 150ish par. If no par meter perhaps someone on here can give you a ballpark number. @LordofCinder?

Get the PO4 down, not to quickly. If you do use gfo or the like, I would recommend using half of what the bottle says.

Boost the mag to minimum 1350, slight more would be better. Do it in one shot, no harm. Find rhf calculator. Easy to find.

 

[robreefer91]

Is the par meter something to buy? Do you think it was possible for a LK to drop when I switched over to rodi water?