Too Late to Save my Banngai?

AmberOwl145

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2023
Messages
43
Reaction score
7
Location
NY
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hi all,

Could use some urgent help..

-Came back from vacation 3 weeks ago, and the sitter left the light on 7 days in a row. The water was super algae-filled and the tank was naturally covered in algae. I cleaned it up, and did a 30% water change in my 33 gallon tank. Water parameters seemed fine.

-3 days later, my Banngai cardinalfish died, and my royal gramma died. I assumed it was due to the shock of having the light on so long, and the algae. My 2 seahorses, and firefish, however, are perfectly fine, seem to be healthy.

-Continued to do slightly larger weekly water changes, and 4 days ago bought a new Banngai Cardinal and Royal Gramma (probably should have waited - I get it)

The royal gramma died the next day, my firefish died, and now my Banngai is exhibiting signs below in the video. The dead fish didn't seem to have any markings on them, and it was rather sudden to be honest.

So now the Banngai Cardinal he hasn't been eating for 2 days, and keeps floating in a weird way, and in the video you can barely make out a slightly stringy thing hanging under him, but I can't make out whether it's an illness or just his fin kinda decaying. Either way not good. He seems to just stay there and fight against the current, floating around, and doesn't seem interested with food in front of him. If I move the turkey baster near him, he kinda moves away but not with much vigor.


My question is this - clearly I've got a problem, and I suppose should just leave the tank alone and not add any other fish. but...

1) How long should I not add fish and wait? What should I be doing besides water changes?
2) Anything I can do to save my Banngai Cardinal? I was reading about a "Fresh water" bath of aerated RO water.
Would that be a good idea to try today?

Thank you so much!!



h
 

Jekyl

GSP is the devil and clowns are bad pets
View Badges
Joined
Jan 15, 2019
Messages
12,484
Reaction score
16,937
Location
Michigan
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Can you please list parameters including temp and salinity?
 

Jekyl

GSP is the devil and clowns are bad pets
View Badges
Joined
Jan 15, 2019
Messages
12,484
Reaction score
16,937
Location
Michigan
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
OP
OP
A

AmberOwl145

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2023
Messages
43
Reaction score
7
Location
NY
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Can you please list parameters including temp and salinity?

salinity is 1.025
temperature is 73.4 degrees (I keep it slightly lower for the seahorses)
I brought the water a few days ago to the LFS and they said it looks good, they did tests on ammonia and nitrites/nitrates.

The parameters unfortunately I'm using the testing strips, but here it is:
(I'm open to recommendations)

IMG_0572.jpg
 

Mr. Mojo Rising

7500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 14, 2021
Messages
7,612
Reaction score
8,632
Location
Toronto
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I'm sorry for that and I don't know, But, a wifi plug cost $15 on amazon so you can put your light on a timer. I know it doesn't help now but for next time. Good luck
 

Jekyl

GSP is the devil and clowns are bad pets
View Badges
Joined
Jan 15, 2019
Messages
12,484
Reaction score
16,937
Location
Michigan
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Ugh unfortunately he's alive but upside down now. Should I try a dip?
Concerned that staying near the surface is due to the water temp being higher up there. Usually seahorse are kept seperate. Not to say that this is the issue or the only one.

The test strip tests you have are not sufficient for saltwater so they aren't going to be much help. For the future I recommend switching to hanna or salifert. For faster results get a second opinion from your LFS.

Due to the current and past issues I would hold off on any additions until things are figured out. As well as give some serious consideration to a quarantine system.
 

vetteguy53081

Well known Member and monster tank lover
View Badges
Joined
Aug 11, 2013
Messages
96,707
Reaction score
215,505
Location
Wisconsin -
Rating - 100%
15   0   0
Please post you tube vide
Hi all,

Could use some urgent help..

-Came back from vacation 3 weeks ago, and the sitter left the light on 7 days in a row. The water was super algae-filled and the tank was naturally covered in algae. I cleaned it up, and did a 30% water change in my 33 gallon tank. Water parameters seemed fine.

-3 days later, my Banngai cardinalfish died, and my royal gramma died. I assumed it was due to the shock of having the light on so long, and the algae. My 2 seahorses, and firefish, however, are perfectly fine, seem to be healthy.

-Continued to do slightly larger weekly water changes, and 4 days ago bought a new Banngai Cardinal and Royal Gramma (probably should have waited - I get it)

The royal gramma died the next day, my firefish died, and now my Banngai is exhibiting signs below in the video. The dead fish didn't seem to have any markings on them, and it was rather sudden to be honest.

So now the Banngai Cardinal he hasn't been eating for 2 days, and keeps floating in a weird way, and in the video you can barely make out a slightly stringy thing hanging under him, but I can't make out whether it's an illness or just his fin kinda decaying. Either way not good. He seems to just stay there and fight against the current, floating around, and doesn't seem interested with food in front of him. If I move the turkey baster near him, he kinda moves away but not with much vigor.


My question is this - clearly I've got a problem, and I suppose should just leave the tank alone and not add any other fish. but...

1) How long should I not add fish and wait? What should I be doing besides water changes?
2) Anything I can do to save my Banngai Cardinal? I was reading about a "Fresh water" bath of aerated RO water.
Would that be a good idea to try today?

Thank you so much!!



h

Please post you tube video as this one does not play
Often these fish get injured as they startle easily and also weaken at 2-3 years of age
Invest in quality kits such as Hanna or salifert brand
 
OP
OP
A

AmberOwl145

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2023
Messages
43
Reaction score
7
Location
NY
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Concerned that staying near the surface is due to the water temp being higher up there. Usually seahorse are kept seperate. Not to say that this is the issue or the only one.

The test strip tests you have are not sufficient for saltwater so they aren't going to be much help. For the future I recommend switching to hanna or salifert. For faster results get a second opinion from your LFS.

Due to the current and past issues I would hold off on any additions until things are figured out. As well as give some serious consideration to a quarantine system.

Thanks could you recommend any specific products from them to use to test my water? Should I be buying these?
Also, let's assume I did, and the water still seemed fine (as two LFS's also agreed) - how long do you think I should wait before introducing new fish?
 
OP
OP
A

AmberOwl145

Community Member
View Badges
Joined
Dec 3, 2023
Messages
43
Reaction score
7
Location
NY
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Please post you tube vide


Please post you tube video as this one does not play
Often these fish get injured as they startle easily and also weaken at 2-3 years of age
Invest in quality kits such as Hanna or salifert brand
Any specific product links you could share? Interested in getting the right equipment
 

vetteguy53081

Well known Member and monster tank lover
View Badges
Joined
Aug 11, 2013
Messages
96,707
Reaction score
215,505
Location
Wisconsin -
Rating - 100%
15   0   0
Will need to see fish first before recommendations
Any specific product links you could share? Interested in getting the right equipment
 

HAVE YOU EVER KEPT A RARE/UNCOMMON FISH, CORAL, OR INVERT? SHOW IT OFF IN THE THREAD!

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top