Tigger & Tisbe Pods

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Sycoticrealm

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I have amphipods and mysid maybe it because they're the same size. I have this one species of copepods also i did notice the number were reduced with them.
I don't think the mysid are considered pods though.
Biggest adults I've seen are 1/4" in length max.
My amphipods are equal size thsy could be feeding on the babies though never put any of them under a scope to notice.
I don't even own one i really need to get one though i got some things i wanna test out myself.
 
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40B Knasty

40B Knasty

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I have amphipods and mysid maybe it because they're the same size. I have this one species of copepods also i did notice the number were reduced with them.
I don't think the mysid are considered pods though.
Biggest adults I've seen are 1/4" in length max.
My amphipods are equal size thsy could be feeding on the babies though never put any of them under a scope to notice.
I don't even own one i really need to get one though i got some things i wanna test out myself.
I had amphipods in when I started off with a 20g. No wonder why my spotted mandarin was plump haha. Actually I don't even know if he could have fit them in his mouth. He just ate all frozen foods.
 
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I believe Chad the guy from Reef Nutrition had posted something back on page 2 or 3 about the bigger species will take over. I have heard amphipods will definitely eat other pods.

Many crustaceans have cannibalistic tendencies as well as eating other types. There are plenty of copepods that eat their young as well as other copepods. Amphipods also have these natural tendencies. Mysids are notorious cannibals, making them challenging to culture.
When times are tough, you eat each other or your neighbor. LOL
 
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40B Knasty

40B Knasty

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Many crustaceans have cannibalistic tendencies as well as eating other types. There are plenty of copepods that eat their young as well as other copepods. Amphipods also have these natural tendencies. Mysids are notorious cannibals, making them challenging to culture.
When times are tough, you eat each other or your neighbor. LOL
Well now he can save money on the microscope and go buy 2x 5g tanks and 2 bottles of Reef Nutrition Tigger pods! :)
 

Sycoticrealm

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I feed flakes and mysid are super easy to populate.
I always keeo them in med to high nutrient tanks. I've had them do well in pretty clean tanks also but that was after i had loads of adults. I gut load them spirulina flake and ocean nutrition formula one. And my mandarins at the time grew quickly and it even trained them to eat frozen foods
 
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I love this thread. Really learned alot!! And I can see myself getting into this someday. With that said what's to be said for the simpler approach of just letting them populate naturally? What I mean is, start a culture in your tank, add a fuge, and see what happens. Let them balance out naturally, meaning the population will adjust based on the available food and predators. I've taken this approach by building 4x 10g tanks onto my setup to use as fuges. I also have a 75g sump that acts as a fuge. I purchased an awesome culture from Chad and feed them every day or so, both fish pellets and (I think) reef roids). the populations in my fuges are awesome. The first 10g tank is like a darn zoo! It has copepods, amphipods, and mysis. I'm sure they're all eating each other :) The top 10g tank drains into one beneath it and so forth. The 4th 10g tank flows back into my sump right by the return pump. I figure as long as I keep the critters in my fuges fed they will continue to populate my display tank.

Thoughts? I'm thinking the first answer is this method is great if you dont have alot of spaces for fuges and/or you have more dependent animals (ie - mandarins) than your fuges can naturally feed.

Will keep watching this great thread. thanks!!
 
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40B Knasty

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I love this thread. Really learned alot!! And I can see myself getting into this someday. With that said what's to be said for the simpler approach of just letting them populate naturally? What I mean is, start a culture in your tank, add a fuge, and see what happens. Let them balance out naturally, meaning the population will adjust based on the available food and predators. I've taken this approach by building 4x 10g tanks onto my setup to use as fuges. I also have a 75g sump that acts as a fuge. I purchased an awesome culture from Chad and feed them every day or so, both fish pellets and (I think) reef roids). the populations in my fuges are awesome. The first 10g tank is like a darn zoo! It has copepods, amphipods, and mysis. I'm sure they're all eating each other :) The top 10g tank drains into one beneath it and so forth. The 4th 10g tank flows back into my sump right by the return pump. I figure as long as I keep the critters in my fuges fed they will continue to populate my display tank.

Thoughts? I'm thinking the first answer is this method is great if you dont have alot of spaces for fuges and/or you have more dependent animals (ie - mandarins) than your fuges can naturally feed.

Will keep watching this great thread. thanks!!
I am not sure what to say. The thread is about keeping pods without a sump or refugium for those that wanted a picky eater, the math, behavior of the pods, show it works, nutritional value, the cost how to set it up so no livestock will eat them till you add them to the DT, change water, and how to harvest leaving the smaller ones in.
 
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tammieh

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So I'm looking at the tank.... the larger pods seem less in number but I'm seeing lots of super small dots on the tank walls moving all around (under a hand held magnifying glass). So I'm hoping in a couple of weeks to see a population explosion.
 
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40B Knasty

40B Knasty

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So I'm looking at the tank.... the larger pods seem less in number but I'm seeing lots of super small dots on the tank walls moving all around (under a hand held magnifying glass). So I'm hoping in a couple of weeks to see a population explosion.
Good to hear! If there is any problem. Just blame chad :)
I let my salinity get to high this past week due to a passing in my family. I was at 1.030 in the left tank. 1.028 for the right tank. They were still all alive and kicking. Just not over populating. Did a water change last night and dropped the salinity down to 1.023 to give me more leeway with water evaporation.
 
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NS Mike D

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What kind of pods are you going with?


tigs


I made the switch at the end of last year and have reasonable population in my HOB CPR fuge. Not sure if its because the tigs are easier to see, or the changes I made to the fuge to make it more pod friendly.

Last year I added a 10 gal no lights sump with a rubble rock filled diy egg crate cube, 7"x7"x7". At some point I plan on removing the filter socks and dose that with pods. I presume they will live off the detritus, phytoplankton and the algae dust I scrape off the glass that will end up in the sump.
 
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40B Knasty

40B Knasty

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tigs


I made the switch at the end of last year and have reasonable population in my HOB CPR fuge. Not sure if its because the tigs are easier to see, or the changes I made to the fuge to make it more pod friendly.

Last year I added a 10 gal no lights sump with a rubble rock filled diy egg crate cube, 7"x7"x7". At some point I plan on removing the filter socks and dose that with pods. I presume they will live off the detritus, phytoplankton and the algae dust I scrape off the glass that will end up in the sump.
I am all about promoting the idea of tigger pods because of 2 major reasons.
1) Omega 3, which helps a lot with a fishes slime coat. Making it harder for parasites like ich and velvet to latch on to our fish when they are sleeping.
2) The rate of population. 1 pod w/ 10 chances of having a larvae clutch of 30 eggs per time.
 
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Greenstreet.1

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@40B great thread thank you for sharing.

Quick question just to make sure I’m on the right track before I start all I need in the tank is ?

1 Pump with air Stone
2 live rock or Cheto or both
3 do I need a heater
4 if I use a sponge filter do I need to worry about them getting pulled in ?

Once and thank you.
 
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40B Knasty

40B Knasty

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@40B great thread thank you for sharing.

Quick question just to make sure I’m on the right track before I start all I need in the tank is ?

1 Pump with air Stone
2 live rock or Cheto or both
3 do I need a heater
4 if I use a sponge filter do I need to worry about them getting pulled in ?

Once and thank you.
1) no air stone. Slow trickle of an air bubble(one every second). I hook my air line under the dead rock to keep the airline submerged.
2) I would use dead rock. You don't want any contamination from other species. Chaeto is an option I chose to do having a T5 laying around doing nothing. Also another thing you have to watch out for with contamination is in your chaeto of other species like bristle worms. Find a good source provider of chaeto and you may want to qt it.
3) No heater needed. I have mine at a room temp of 63F-65F. They can handle temp swings from 55F-90F. Salinity swings up to 1.030. I have read even up to 1.032. But keep it in the 1.023-1.025 range. Watch for a little top off here and there. It is a smaller tank. A little goes a long way with fresh water added or evaporated water from the tank.
4A)I do not use a filter at all. I do water changes every 2 weeks. Tisbe pods can handle a paddle wheel impeller from what I read about people having them in a refugium. Tigger pods may get beat up and die from the impeller.
4B)I use a fine sponge glued to the tip of the airline hose that I syphon with to do a water change. I hardly suck up any pods. Maybe 1-5. (If that is what you were referring to with a sponge filter)
Hope that helped for your questions.
 
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leahfiish

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Just wanted to update and say that my pod population has dwindled significantly. I used reef nutrition tiger pods, 1 small bottle in a 10g with about 5g of water in it at 1.023. I fed them phyto feast, enough to tint the water green, and a little bit of Nanochloropsis since I have some in the fridge. I added more every day or 2. I have a sponge filter in the tank and a little bit of Matrix for them to hide in and I added some Seachem stability the first week. I also have a light over the tank for about 14 hours a day. It's been about 2 and a half weeks now and I hardly have any pods left. I'll take a closer look to see if I can figure out a cause tonight. But I am a little disappointed, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong or what I should change.
 
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40B Knasty

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Just wanted to update and say that my pod population has dwindled significantly. I used reef nutrition tiger pods, 1 small bottle in a 10g with about 5g of water in it at 1.023. I fed them phyto feast, enough to tint the water green, and a little bit of Nanochloropsis since I have some in the fridge. I added more every day or 2. I have a sponge filter in the tank and a little bit of Matrix for them to hide in and I added some Seachem stability the first week. I also have a light over the tank for about 14 hours a day. It's been about 2 and a half weeks now and I hardly have any pods left. I'll take a closer look to see if I can figure out a cause tonight. But I am a little disappointed, I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong or what I should change.
When you say sponge filter. Do you mean you have a filter like a Aqueon 10 filtering the tank?
Take some pictures. I never used a chemical it the tank aside of Prime in the mixing salt water. I do believe chad said something about phytoplankton not being the greatest for them. I use Spirulina for feeding. I also heard brewers yeast works recently.
At this point for you. I am thinking
A)starving them out.
B)If you have a filter with a motor on the tank that the water passes through it. The pods are getting killed from it.
C)the water quality
D)the salt is not mixed long enough.
E)that Stability product was not a good idea to add
 

leahfiish

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When you say sponge filter. Do you mean you have a filter like a Aqueon 10 filtering the tank?
Take some pictures. I never used a chemical it the tank aside of Prime in the mixing salt water. I do believe chad said something about phytoplankton not being the greatest for them. I use Spirulina for feeding. I also heard brewers yeast works recently.
At this point for you. I am thinking
A)starving them out.
B)If you have a filter with a motor on the tank that the water passes through it. The pods are getting killed from it.
C)the water quality
D)the salt is not mixed long enough.
E)that Stability product was not a good idea to add
No its just an air powered sponge filter. Basically a sponge with a bubbler. And feeding 1 species of phyto is not ideal because it's not a complete diet but I am feeding multiple species with the phyto feast. Maybe something in my Nanochloropsis contaminated something but I'm not sure. I might switch to spirulina but I want to at least try to finish the bottle of phyto feast first, I haven't used much of it and I don't see any reason why the phyto feast would be an issue.
Stability is just bottled beneficial bacteria so I can't see that being the problem. I need to check the ammonia to make sure that isnt high.
Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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