Thoughts on my Plumbing Plan

[OnePuffMan]

I am mapping the plumbing for my 150 gallon with Trigger Systems Triton 44. Please let me know your thoughts on the plan. Orange is drain, green is return. I plan on throwing a rubber coupling on the vertical return portion from the pump and on each side of the tee to allow for some vibration absorption and quick service. My LFS and I are planning to use the COR 20 to control flow, which is why there are no valves.

Gallery

 

[BaliReefBox]

IMO you could use a manifold to run the extra equipment that is in your future and I would still include some gate valves on the returns

 

[Cichlid Dad]

I am mapping the plumbing for my 150 gallon with Trigger Systems Triton 44. Please let me know your thoughts on the plan. Orange is drain, green is return. I plan on throwing a rubber coupling on the vertical return portion from the pump and on each side of the tee to allow for some vibration absorption and quick service. My LFS and I are planning to use the COR 20 to control flow, which is why there are no valves.

Gallery

Valves are imo very important. I have one on return and display drain. I use mine All of the Time. Turn both off holds water level in the sump and tank at the same level while doing maintenance, water changes, cleaning ECT...

 

[Sean Clark]

You definitely want a valve on your main drain or you will be fighting with your pump constantly to keep the system balanced and quiet. Leave it wide open if you want to try using the pump to balance the system. I'll bet you revert to the valve in less than 2 weeks.
I would keep the drains high until you turn them down into the sump just to keep things nice and open for access. It looks like you have them cutting over and down at an angle. Inches count in the stand.

 

[OnePuffMan]

You definitely want a valve on your main drain or you will be fighting with your pump constantly to keep the system balanced and quiet. Leave it wide open if you want to try using the pump to balance the system. I'll bet you revert to the valve in less than 2 weeks.
I would keep the drains high until you turn them down into the sump just to keep things nice and open for access. It looks like you have them cutting over and down at an angle. Inches count in the stand.

I originally had the pipes running along the stand then going straight down but was worried that the ~20" drop would be noisy and a 30" flat run to the furthest would cause issues. Was I wrong?

 

[Steven Garland]

As a plumber by trade,I would ALWAYS use valves AND check valves. Especically if the power goes out those few extra gallons in the sump can be bad if not planned for it.

And for the small price of under $100 for safety and ease of mind what would hurt ? I would suggest full port double union valves and check valves. HomeDepot and Lowes both carry unions,check valves and double union ball valves.

Unions:

BioTek Marine PVC White Union Slip Fittings

BioTek Marine PVC White Union Fittings

www.aquariumspecialty.com

Check Valve:

BioTek Marine Clear PVC Flapper Check Valve With Slip Unions

BioTek Marine Clear PVC Flapper Check Valve With Slip Unions

www.aquariumspecialty.com

Metric Check Valve

Slip to Slip Check Valves Check valves allow one directional water flow, used to prevent back flow and siphoning. Available in: 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63, 75, 90, 110mm

www.coralvue.com

Union Ball Valves:

BioTek Marine White PVC True Union Ball Valves

BioTek Marine White PVC True Union Ball Valves

www.aquariumspecialty.com

Metric Double Union Ball Valve

Slip to Slip Double Precision Union Ball Valve Available in: 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63, 75, 90, 110mm

www.coralvue.com

 

[Super Fly]

I originally had the pipes running along the stand then going straight down but was worried that the ~20" drop would be noisy and a 30" flat run to the furthest would cause issues. Was I wrong?

straight drop should be no problem, in fact check out @benapilot's 150G build thread here https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/benapilots-sca-150-upgrade.769572/page-2
he's using external overflow w straight drop and it's dead silent. (p 2& 3). BTW - love the user name!

 

[Sean Clark]

I originally had the pipes running along the stand then going straight down but was worried that the ~20" drop would be noisy and a 30" flat run to the furthest would cause issues. Was I wrong?

It looks like you are planing on running a beananimal style drain. When properly adjusted the distance of the drop means nothing.
The main drain is a full siphon and should exit the pipe just below the water level, no air means no noise.
The secondary drain will only carry a trickle of water which will cling to the interior of the pipe as it flows and should also exit the pipe just below the water level, no noise.
The third drain is your emergency, ideally no water ever flows here, when it does you want it to exit the pipe above the water so that it intentionally makes noise alerting you "hey, there is a problem".

When you think about it, most tanks and stands are pretty much the same as far as basic setup and dimensions go. So people are not encountering dramatically different situations as to how far their plumbing needs to go. There is a reason some people have loud tanks with salt creep everywhere and why some people have silent tanks without salt creep.

For the record, I have the Triton 44 sump on my system. Not to say that having any particular sump or tank changes the principles.

 

[Sean Clark]

straight drop should be no problem, in fact check out @benapilot's 150G build thread here https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/benapilots-sca-150-upgrade.769572/page-2
he's using external overflow w straight drop and it's dead silent. (p 2& 3). BTW - love the user name!

Straight drop with a valve

 

[Super Fly]

oh also, I"d spend the extra $ and use gate valve instead of ball valve. They are better to control and less prone to leak