This is a different Reef Tank

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I poisoned the Tank last Sunday with Bad Frags. It was the second load of Frags that caused the Ammonia Poisoning. The Tank was done by 06/26/20 with all cycling. Based on a Nitrate Level of 1. It had peaked at 45 ppm on Wednesday Night. It was down to 4 on Thursday and then 1 on Friday. The Ammonia was zero as was the Nitrite. Based on the readings I put some Old Aged Cement Frags in the Tank. The next morning the Nitrate was zero as were the Ammonia and Nitrite. That is when the mistake happened.
Making Frags is fun, but without real Dry Coral it is not possible to use Natural Attachment. Several months ago I bought a bag of Cuttle Bone ( yes, that white bony stuff Parrots love ). It wasn't like it showed. It was nasty stinky and had a Protein Covering. After cleaning off and aging it was time to try this Coral Substitute. Very bad idea. It was apparently still rotting inside and giving off huge amounts of Ammonia. This was not apparent in the 270 gallon Marine Pond. It is now clear why my big Feather Calerpa decided to suddenly die. Right after working with my new Coral Substitute 3 feet up current. The new Cuttle Bone Frags are what was put in on Saturday morning ( 06/27/20 ). At that point the Ammonia showed up. It went up to 3 and stabilized, for 3 days. Today after seeing the same unexplained Ammonia, I actually sort of Yelled, what the heck died in this Tank. At that exact moment it occurred to me that the Cuttle Bone Frags were still rotting. After lifting one up, it wasn't hard to smell the Ammonia wafting off. At last a real reason for the Tank going crazy. The mistake has improved the design. It did not need Two Nitrate Reactor Cores. It has never moved from zero Nitrate even after the Ammonia Problem. It did need a finer filter to polish the water. Foam Anaerobic Filters have always been great water polishers. Now both aerobic and anaerobic Bacteria have dedicated housing to maximize efficiency.
All the Cuttle Bone is out. The Tank is now running in the Original Form with the single change being the Foam Filter addition. If it returns to the water quality of last Saturday ( pre Cuttle Bone ) it will be ready for testing by Reefers. I will provide free systems to Reefers that want to test the Nitrate Destroyer and Protein Skimmer. It doesn't matter what you put in the Tank. It is all good data.

PS: There was a concern that my Test Kit was not accurate enough. Be assured that all my measurements are verified when needed by the LFS. They charge me for an accurate set of Tests and I get a Receipt. It was the LFS Measurements 5 years ago that indicated that the right materials had finally been found. It took 2 years to find a material that would protect Anaerobic Bacteria from Oxygen and allow an effective flow around the Anaerobic Cells. Since a workable material was found and installed 5 years ago there have been no Nitrate issues at all. How long will it take to remove a dead Cuttle Fish? We are going to see.
 

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Based on a Nitrate Level of 1. It had peaked at 45 ppm on Wednesday Night. It was down to 4 on Thursday and then 1 on Friday. The Ammonia was zero as was the Nitrite.
This indicate a nitrite spike around 1 ppm - IMO - there is no chance that a nitrate concentration can vary that way in a couple of days.

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Dear Lasse, With all due respect you are quoting the expectations of an Outhouse. The System that is running here is a Septic System. Quoting how long fecal matter lays on a Parkway has nothing to do with dedicated Anaerobic and Aerobic processes. The Coral Gravel in this tank will not be done for weeks. It is not needed. The Anaerobic Reactor has Twisted HDPE Ribbon Pairs. That form dedicated Anaerobic Modules ( 10000 / sq inch of fabric. In order to maintain Water Flow the Ribbon Pairs are Knitted to add Loft. Comparing the Diffusion rate in a Static Gravel Bed to the full flow of the Reactor Module is totally without merit. The Nitrate level peaked at 40 ppm on Wednesday because the Reactor Module was just coming on line. After 24 hours the Nitrate was 4. After 48 hours it was 1. That was day 6 of my 7 day promise. Knowing that it would be zero by day 7, I loaded in some Marine Pond Frags. They were LFS Frags from years ago ( see all pictures ). Then I almost killed the Tank. As any Reefer knows, More Space=More Frags / Low Nitrate = More Frags. I added four Frags from my experimental Frags. All on Cuttle Bone ( 98 % Aragonite 2 % protein and 100 % disaster ). I was sure the Idea had merit. Cuttle Bone is cheap and Parrots can't be wrong, can they? After Denaturing the Cuttle they made great fake stones. Ricordea attach, Gorgonia try to anchor. The Tank looked great. All Zeros for Bad Staff, For about 8 hours. Slowly it came, Ammonia from Nowhere. It kept climbing. After a climb to 4 + after 3 days I screamed at the Tank, what the heck died in there. At that exact moment It dawned on me what had died. It was a bunch of Cuttle Fish that were now Rotting in my Tank ( see pictures ). The first one I grabbed, smelled like dead Squid. In the 12 hours since removing my Bad, the Ammonia Level has fallen to 1.5 ppm but the Nitrate Level has risen to 5 ppm. Can a conventional static Gravel Bed handle 4 ounces of rotten Cuttle Bone for 3 Days and never top 5 ppm Ammonia. The 5 ppm Nitrate will be gone within 36 hours. This Tank was Hard Coral on the 7 th day. It will be back by the 15 day. Someone could take another week to recognize the potential, start a Tank, and be Fragging before a conventional System finishes all the normal drama.
If you still don't believe my figures, sign up for a free system. Then you can cast doubt on yourself instead of someone trying to get the Frags out of the Outhouse. The pictures are so clear that any good Reefer should have the necessary parts in the junk drawer. There is one Reefer who thinks the results are the result of my being blind, another feels the numbers are off because API makes bad stuff. Maybe the numbers indicate that this Unit kicks butt better than anything you ever saw. These threads are going to be very entertaining in a year if this is a new standard. Thanks for having an input. That makes you special already. Read the Threads. If nothing else, someday your System may need help. This System can be added to a normal system in minutes. If it were added to yours it could prove itself by improving your Water Quality. If it did better than your Whole System, would you Believe then?

gack skimmer and two bio pots.jpg a piece of sea.jpg I am so blessed.jpg 0620201704d (1).jpg precision machine skills required.jpg complete system including Battery air backup.jpg Aerobic Foam substitution for one Nitrate Reactor Core.jpg day view.jpg inner decomposition of Cuttle Bone.jpg
 

Lasse

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you are quoting the expectations of an Outhouse

You say that an anaerobic denitrification will start in five days after a start of an aquarium in your system - in my world it is the same as the content in a outhouse.

What you see when your ammonia is breaking down during the first days is the upbuild of nitrite - when the second stage in the nitrification starts - the nitrite will go down and show a low nitrate concentration in your test. There is no other answer to a process that you say will produce first 45 ppm nitrate and that´s mostly gone four days after.

It is your nitrate test that that fool you. API:s test - as nearly all nitrate tests - is constructed that way that first will an special amount of the nitrate be reduced to nitrite. The colour test measure the nitrite level that´s been the result of that reduction. The colour scale will convert this into nitrate and you can read nitrate. If there is x ppm nitrite in the sample and 0 nitrate - your readings of the sample will report a false concentration of nitrate. The conversion factor is between 50 and 100 depended of brand of your test. Whats happen - IMO is that first your ammonia have been transferred into nitrite - you test and your nitrite level give you a false reading of your nitrate level. Day 4-7 your second step chim in and your nitrite concentration goes down and leave som nitrate - but your test report a decreasing Nitrate level because the interfering nitrite ion (that rise your nitrate readings 50 - 100 times) decrease too.

However your system seems to complete the nitrification process rather fast (7 days) and that´s good. But there is no chance that you during this time has build up an fully working anaerobic denitrification step - it will without adding organic carbon take at least 1-2 month if you let your organic matter decompose in the anaerobic reactor - probably a little faster if you ad organic carbon (DOC)

Sincerely Lasse
 
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You are correct and I am glad that these kind of facts are being discussed:
Having said that there is great news on the Different Tank Build. The missing Nitrate finally showed up at the same time that the Latent Ammonia went from 4 ppm to .25 ppm, the Nitrate went from 5 ppm to 50 ppm.
Explanation :
After having a perfect Hard Coral Tank ( close to Zero's ) the seventh day, I added the now known Rotten Cuttle Bone Frag Mounts. From that moment on all the readings made no sense. No Tank should have a rising Ammonia and No Nitrate. That's just wrong. This morning the Nitrate was suddenly a 5 ppm ( wow finally some Nitrate ). Now things were totally wrecked. Then a miracle occurred :>) It was clear that this system was not doing what it was supposed to so it got taken down. The Frags ( 3 ) that were the first in were saved to the Marine Pond ( the Sour Cuttle Bone was removed upon discovery 2 days ago, the pieces had good stuff that was saved ). Then the Filter was returned to the exact form it was in during the Tank Build ( the apparently useless Foam Sleeve was taken off and the second Nitrate Destroyer Bobbin was retrieved from a Refugium and put back on).
At 9:00 am the System was turned back on and the Tank was treated as a general Bad Tank.
ammonia 4 ppm
Nitrate 5
12:00 pm
Ammonia .25 ppm
Nitrate 50 ppm ( glad those Frags came out )
3:00 pm
Ammonia .25 ppm ( can't really see a change )
Nitrate 40 ppm ( that is down 10 ppm in 3 hours )
The Tank has the same basic readings as day four and the Filter is exactly the same. The morning readings will show if the Filter can repeat the first cycle.
This is what it did the first time. The Tank peaked at 40 ppm the 4 th day before the Bio Bobbins were operational. That was why I reported the Nitrate Level as falling from 40 ppm, to 4 ppm, to 1 ppm, to the final day ( 7 th 06/27/20 ) of basically Zero Nitrate.
The Tank is now bubbling away with the original Filter Configuration and if it repeats the first cycle, it will be done within 3 days. At that point the LFS will do a full Panel.
PS: I do not have a Nitrite Test. All my indications were from Ammonia and Nitrate. The great thing about this situation is that after the 5 ppm Nitrate went to 50 ppm it was still in the Indicator Range. That allowed for the next reading to show that big drop down to 40 ppm. First the Filter grabbed the Tank and forced some kind of adjustment from a crazy imbalance to at least something rational. 4 ppm Ammonia for 2 days and no Nitrate? Three hours and .25 Ammonia and 50 ppm Nitrate. Three more hours and .25 ppm Ammonia ( hard to see changes ) and 40 ppm Nitrate. This is like a Triple Point. Those last readings match a known point in the first Different Tank Cycle ( Day 4 ). Whatever the Rate, the job should be done in three days. A fantastic Verification of the Filter Efficacy, an aerobic ability and an anaerobic Powerhouse from forced flow over protected Anaerobic Packets. If in Three Days this is again a Hard Coral Tank, after Ammonia Poisoning and No Water Change, it can help an existing Tank to recover from High Nitrate. The Low Nitrate readings were real. The Filter was eating all the Nitrate that was being converted. The Tank was on an Ammonia Drip. Now it is just Taking out the Garbage ( Evil Nitrate ) after kicking the tar out of the Ammonia that the wimpy Foam Aerobic Bobbin couldn't handle.
 

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Once again - you are not reading any high nitrate (NO3) What you are reading is a false Nitrate concentration due to the construction of the test. You are reading a nitrite spike and your test falsely report it as nitrate. You are witnessing a true aerobic nitrification process there first one type of bacteria convert ammonia (NH3/NH4) into nitrite (NO2). In the next step - nitrite will be converted to nitrate of an other type of bacteria. In immature systems - the process often halt a little between the steps and nitrite will rise. If no more ammonia will be present - the second step will do its job during a couple of days. Nitrite will go down and nitrate (true nitrate) will rise a little. This is exactly what you are seeing during your 7 days.

As I said in my last post - a nitrate test in reality is a nitrite test with a compound that will transfer some of the nitrate into nitrite. The final analyse is for nitrite. The colour chart make the translation into nitrate. This will only work if there is NO nitrite in the sample before nitrate is transferred into nitrite. If you have nitrite in your sample before the conversion - the test will report a false nitrate level. The factor is between 50 and 100. If your sample have 0.1 ppm nitrite from the beginning - your nitrate test will report this as around 5 to 10 ppm nitrate. In your case - the test report 50 ppm nitrate - it means that your nitrite level probably is between 0.5 and 1 ppm.

Further on - if your 4 ppm ammonium will be total converted into nitrate - it will only correspond to around 13 - 14 ppm nitrate - not 50.

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Noon at the Different Tank>>> Ammonia .15 ppm NITRITE 3 ppm Nitrate 30 ppm
Hi, The Tank is bubbling away. As too the readings, they are what they are at the time I measure and with what I have. The Bio Cloth does both Aerobic and Aerobic. The point of building the Bio Bobbin out of Micro Encapsulating Anaerobic Knit was to get the Cycle to happen faster than Coral Gravel. The Coral Gravel in the tank is not having anything to do with this. It won't be Traditionally Seasoned for another 4 weeks. The Tank Scaled System worked great between 06/20/20 and 06/27/20 when the Tank was completely stable.
The System has already showed that the Bio Bobbin Material is much better with aerobic than the aerobic Foam. That is an unexpected bonus. The cloth was only selected to boost Anaerobic Breakdown.
The Ammonia Drip was unanticipated. The Nitrate Spike was not expected. Only after testing the Tank for Ammonia ( was 4 ppm at start of Reboot, 3 hours later was .25 ). That seemed a little drastic ( after 4 tests ). It seemed prudent to test Nitrate ( no Nitrite test ). It was at least 50 ppm. It may have done anything. Try to understand that this System has worked for years in my Marine Pond System. It is not a question of if the method works. As a testament to the Marine Pond System, the Ammonia Tainted Frag Plates ( improperly Retted Cuttle Bone ) only killed two Feather Calerpa Bushes that were down current from the Fragging Shelf. My mistake was in losing faith in the Filter when the Ammonia kept showing up. I changed one Bio Core to an Aerobic Foam. It did nothing in three days. Finally when Nitrate showed up ( 5 ppm ) it was time to fold. The last three Frags came out and the Filter Configuration was returned to completely original. The New Tank Conditioning started Yesterday at 9:00 am. It was an awful blend of half processed Nitrogen Compounds. It started showing improvement in three hours. Whatever is happening is actually moving the Tank back to Hard Coral Water ( just like the first time ). Quoting spot measurements is misleading. The interaction of the Tests is known. Without a Nitrate Reading it was hard to see the last conversion ( aerobic ) before the Nitrate Break Down ( anaerobic ). The exact methods and Materials are the only reason that my Marine Ponds are fully healthy, disease free, and allow soft coral work. This was Not the case until I perfected the Anaerobic Fabric Filters and added a Protein Skimmer. All I can say is it works, will work, and any measurements will make perfect sense in retrospect. I never fudge test results. While operating FDA Biomedical Labs, Hosting hundreds of Grants ( DARPA NIH ), it quickly becomes vital to write down even the most unlikely results. There are not enough data points for anyone to draw absolute conclusions. If the Tank is once again Hard Coral ready in 3 days ( or so ) by a LFS Paid Test, the results will be scanned and Posted. This is the most ( only ) Robust and Rapid In Tank Septic System. It is not intended to need any aspect of the old Coral Rubble Diffusion. If I had just emptied the Ammonia Poisoned Tank of Frags and stoically run the original System, I would be Fragging again today instead of next Tuesday. I want and need inputs to document this working method. Be assured, I know how to read a meter, and was programming Mag Core Logic Computers for the Air Force before there were IC Chips ( DOD 306X0 KW26, later I designed IC Chips and High Energy Devices Pat. 8,115,343 B2 ) I assure you this works. I may be old and crabby but I am not senile yet.
 

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It is exactly what I said - you have nitrite in the water - therefore your nitrate readings is false and most of the nitrate readings will fade away when nitrite going down. You do not have any denitrification in that new tank. You maybe have it in the old after all this years - but not in the new tank.


Sincerely Lasse
 
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Hi, You have missed the entire point of the new Tank Septic System. The Tank does not need any Coral Rubble at all. The Old Tanks ( 750 gallons of Marine Ponds ) have used this System for 5 years. The current Tank Build Thread has nothing to do with old Time Schedules. The exact System shown here is based on a different Tank that has not been mentioned until now. One of my Threads mentions a 35 gallon pond form Dwarf Seahorse Breeding Tub. It was not speculation. The Tub was the final combination of Dual ( anaerobic and aerobic ) Filtering, using the New Bio Fabric and the Protein Hurler. The same Fabric that is designed to be a perfect host to Anaerobic Bacteria ( closed micro capsules with High Water Flow around them ) and an outer surface that supports aerobic activity. The next Tank I do will not have one gram of this low grade gravel dump clay contaminated Aragonite. Don't get me started on the Concrete Cow pies that are passed off as Aragonite. When someone starts talking about Aragonite / Dry Coral Cycling in a Tank, I wonder what they are using ( or inhaling ). There are Fake Coral Cow Pies in my Tanks that have been rejected by every type of Reef Life imaginable for years. Where is this Cycle occurring in a Plastic / Fake Coral / Trash Aragonite Tank? No where, so the Filters and Scrubbers are getting more complex. I have stated from the first Thread that the Crushed Coral in this Tank is still wandering around aimlessly and will be doing so for another 4 weeks. I refuse to continue forcing my beautiful children to live over a pit toilet. The only companion to real Coral is real Dry Coral. That is a Zen Tank. I don't want to need real Dry Coral to run Zen. This Filter is the Aragonite times 1000 in terms of Water Flow, Anaerobic Hosting, Aerobic Hosting, Mechanical Filtering, and Protein Skimming. It is the only thing that needs to be modeled. It was stated that the Fabric would take several days to start up. Not 6 weeks. The Tank Nitrate Peaked at day 4. Two days later the first Hardy Frags went in. On the 7 day the Nitrate, Nitrite, and Ammonia were at a functional Zero. The second Frags went in. The Rotten Cuttle Fish Frag Plates. The Demonstration was already over. This Demo was restoring the Filter to original condition ( 9:00 am 07/04/20 ) and starting with the Tank as though it was some body's Bad Tank ( ammonia 4 ppm, Nitrate 30 to 50 ppm, Nitrite ? did not test ). After 3 hours ( ammonia .25, Nitrate 30 to 40 hard to tell, Nitrite ? from now on Nitrite and Nitrate are being tested by a Strip designed to show Both. At 9:00 pm the Ammonia was around .125 ppm, Nitrite 5, Nitrate 15 ppm. At 1:00 am Today the readings appear to be Ammonia .1 or less, Nitrite 3, Nitrate 10. At 9:00 am today ( 24 hours ) the readings appear to be Ammonia Less than >1 ppm, Nitrate 1, Nitrate 0 ppm ( Oh No Somethings wrong, it isn't acting like a layer of filthy low grade Marine Bar Floor Sweeping. :>) It acts more like a real Septic System instead of an Outhouse. Any way the Filter is doing the job it was designed to do. The Crushed Coral might catch up in another 4 weeks. Or maybe the Crushed Coral will get thrown out so the true beauty of the Filter will shine. The Filter has already been fully tested in 750 gallons of Old Tank, and two Separate 35 Gallon satellite Tubs. There is sufficient information in the Threads to Build Your Own. Then poison the Tank, throw out all Coral, Set a Stop Watch, and be a part of a new way to help our old friends ( microbial that is ). Just try not to lose patience when perfectly Talented Reefers are still sleeping with the Fishes under a pile of Rotten Gravel ( and explaining to me the basic science that went into developing the most effective Tank Septic System not available on Planet Earth ). Be there or be square, the train is leaving the station. It's taking Delays, Evil Nitrate, and those two pathetic Thugs Ammonia and Nitrite straight to Davey Jones Locker or my names not Henn. Please read the Threads. This is not about anything but, a Marine Water Treatment Plant put together out of Tinkers Toys to get you all on board. I hope to be Fragging by Tuesday, as stated. The LFS will be testing this Water tomorrow.
PS>> None of my Macro Children was harmed in the protracted Demo.BUT,,, I do use my Frags to Judge Water Quality. My most discriminating Guest is the Green Star. It was the Green Star that first told me about the Ammonia Frags. The Zoe agreed soon after. Next my most sensitive Gorgonia began to exhibit. Even before the Ammonia Frags were identified and removed, my Green Star was back home in the big Tank. The others quickly followed.
Instead of finding the Filter Performance unbelievable, build one, test it, and then Dare to try and present the results. It only took Doctors 20 years to believe that Ulcers were caused by Bacteria ( not a cruel mother ). The only Doctor that knew the simple cause had to Drink Bacteria and get an Ulcer before it was found that 96% of Ulcers were Bacterial. NO, I will not drink this water to show it is good. There are limits. This is here, it is not leaving. As more people build these Filters, it will seem more and more silly to refer to Outhouse Technology Time Frames. Zen Tank, one piece, no Gravel. No Dry Coral, and a small Unit on the Wall. How will anyone fit the old ways into that tank? I am beginning to wonder. It will not change anything that is coming. Can anyone spell Luddite?
 

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How is talking about coral rubble - not me. I have not saying anything about your system - I have only said that you get a false reading of nitrate because you have nitrite in the water. I have not say anything about systems that work - I have only said that you get the wrong idea because of false reading of nitrate. The false reading does not depending of what substrate you use - it because of the method used for the analyse.

I have been working with nitrification and denitrification for half my life - in the hobby, in sewage treatment plants and in fish farms - both in production and development teams. I suppose that I have got some ideas how it works.

If you do not understand that you do not have any nitrate at all - is just your nitrite that give you a false reading - I do not know how to go further.

If you do not understand that building a biomass of denitrifier needs time and presence of Dissolved Organic Carbon (DOC) - I do not know how to go further (if you do not use sulphur as media - but that´s also take time to establish)

I do not know if your construction for denitrification will work in the long run or not - but I do know that you can´t get it to work in a week or two - and without presence of DOC or base it on sulphur

You are talking about strips that show both nitrite and nitrate. Read the manual for them - the nitrite indication is there for only one reason - to tell you that you can´t rely on the nitrate readings because there is nitrite in the water. I suppose it is the Merck strips and in the manual its also written that they not is suitable for salt water

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Well Lasse, your opinions are duly noted. I still feel that anyone reviewing these Threads later may suspect that you are not the most avid listener. As too the term Luddite, you are correct. A Luddite rejects new technology, you are not there yet. Maybe new ideas take 6 weeks to propagate just like Solid Rock. Perhaps you have never brewed a Bottle of Wine. I sure am glad that it doesn't take 6 weeks. My fastest decent hooch was a 7 day cycle. Just like the Bacteria in the Reactor. Look up the Haber Process or perhaps Catalytic Converter Technology. These examples are of a thing called, Catalytic Reactions. You may be too young to remember ( Pain and the knife are inseparable, Victorian English Surgeon fighting Anesthesia ). There doesn't seem any reason to continue this one sided denial. I don't need any more Mister Science Lectures given with the weary tone of a Professor about to snap. There seems no point to these lectures. Everyone has heard your side for years. What do any of us gain by seasoning Concrete Cow Pies? They are not Anaerobic so how do they Season? I can't fathom your position.

Thought Question: Open to any Thread Follower

1. If a Seasoned ( 4 days ) Filter Unit is placed in a New Tank ( Bag Water ) where did your position go? Don't try that with your Tank Bottom of Mud.
2. Can people who embrace the new Filter Modules, Pre Load Units in their Tank and start a friend instantly. They do remove and replace with Suckers. Please do not tell us that we must wait 6 weeks for a Pre Loaded Filter Unit to be considered Mud Cycle Approved.

I truly believe that you have not read any of the Threads for Content. This Thread needs no further Lectures. If I really am as clueless as it seems by listening to you, that opinion will be clear from the Thread Followers. There has been no new Content from you in at least 2 Lectures. I am dropping your Class and reporting you to the Dean of Students,,, so there
 

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I repeat once again - your uprise and downfall of nitrate measurements is not because of anaerobic breakdown of nitrate that is produced by the nitrification process. It is caused by interaction of nitrite (produced in the first step of the nitrification process) into the method used in nitrate measurement. You get a false reading.

And stop to insult me about my age - I can´t help that I´m only 70 years old.

Sincerely Lasse
 
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Hi fellow Reefers, The Different Tank is finally getting to the final stages of fixing the Ammonia Contamination. The recap is that some Ammonia Leaching Frag Plates went in and started a real adventure. It is in the Threads Not Knowing that the Ammonia was on a Drip I lost Faith in the Filter Unit. It had come on line as expected from a sterile start 06/20/20. On 06/24/20 the Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate Peaked. Within 24 hours the Nitrate had dropped from > 40 ppm to 4 ppm. By 06/25/20 the nitrate was < 1 ppm. One day later the readings were effectively Zero. Based on this the additional ( contaminated ) Frag Plates were added. The Demo of a 7 day season was over. As the unknown Ammonia kept rising, I began changing the Filter Configuration to Maximize Aerobic ( what the Heck is going on, what died in there ? ). Oh, the Cuttle Bone Frag Plates were not Retted fully.

New Day: The Filter was not to blame, it was restored to the original configuration. The Tank water was Kept ( 4 ppm Ammonia and Nitrate above 5 ppm ). The Filter was started at 9:00 am 07/05/20. Within 3 hours the Ammonia Level was .25 ppm. This change made a Nitrate Check necessary. The Nitrate had climbed to > 40 ppm. Once restored, the Filter ran 24 hours. The Filter has almost restored the Water to Coral Quality. The readings this morning are showing Ammonia at a scant level < .1 and Nitrate at 5 ppm. Based on the original run this Tank will be Coral Ready tomorrow.

Just a Note about the Intent of this Different Tank Thread:

The purpose of the Different Tank was Two fold. There needs to be a replacement for Nature Products. Dry Coral is difficult to get. Aragonite Sand is Shells, Silica, and Clay. The need was to find a Material that would Host the Natural Bacteria ( both Aerobic and Anaerobic ). That was done. There have been individuals that over simplify the complex Layers necessary to Grow Effective Nitrogen Compound Decomposers. After growing Mushrooms and Mothers and such, it is clear that Mushrooms do not Leap Up overnight. There are many steps and structural layers. It has been implied that my knowledge of Mycology is limited to single layer Mold like bad bread. That might extend to thinking people are filled with Meat Paste. Perhaps the Layering in French Pastry is beyond my scope. I was sure the Earth was Solid Dirt until I took Geology in school, Boy was that an eye opener! The Material Selected does Host Aerobic and Anaerobic Colony Layers. The effective Flow and protection of the Anaerobic Colonies has increased the Bacterial Growth Rate in an astonishing degree. The Clean Bio Cores were Inoculated with Anaerobic and Aerobic Silt from my Main Tank. The Demo began on 06/20/20. The Tank was Cycled on 06/27/20. It was crashed on 06/28/20 by Ammonia Drip. The Filter Configuration was restored on 07/05/20 and run. The second Cycle will be complete by 07/07/20.

This can be duplicated by anyone, all the necessary information is in the Thread. Join the next wave and stop playing in the Mud. The next Tank ( A Dwarf Seahorse Corral ) will use this same Filter and no Crushed Coral ( already made and will be Not Cycled by running it for a Week in the Different Tank ). See how neat that is? By removing all Crushed Coral, the Filters Effect should seem even more Magical than now. With no other reason for the Water Clearing, perhaps any lingering doubts can be addressed ( or maybe not with some critics ). The Filter seems not to care one figs worth about decorum.

PS: That Stinking Mud, by the statements of Mud Lovers, won't be ready to help the Filter do the Tank for another 3 and 1/2 weeks minimum. What's up with that? That Aragonite Crud is just a lazy slacker. No wonder people despise its pathetic efforts. That crud is darn near as Vile as Brine Shrimp :>)




1. Replace Natural Material with an effective Controlled Artificial Material >>> Totally Done
2. Prove that effective Nitrogen Compound Breakdown can be accomplished in a Bio Core that is Removable >> Done
3. Establish that moving an Active Bio Core to another Sterile System is an Effective Zero Time Delay Cycle. > Done, or at least it seemed reasonable, before the last several Mycology Lessons.

Thanks for following the Different Tank, it will now be loaded with my favorite Frags. My next Tank will be a Seahorse Tank will feed the Ponys just like the Corrals here. It will be a Tank Form just for my little buddies. The design looks kind of like my first TV. This Filter Design was made for them, they can't do Live Sand or Pump Suction. Down with Evil Mud Worship.

To a Person with a Hammer, everything looks like a nail

Down from peak of 4 ppm in 24 hours.jpg The Different Tank is still alive.jpg 901 070620 Stable Readings ETA 070720 Hard Coral.jpg 845 am 070620 Almost Back 24 hours.jpg
 
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Thank you very much. This has taken 7 years to develop. The material was not found until 5 years ago. It is the only Filter Technology used in my 750 gallons of Marine Ponds ( Protein Hurler is shown in photos). This is IT, the end of the old ways. My sorry at all the damage and loss of life has caused me to try and bring this forward. It is all there. I held nothing back. The constant belittling and criticism have started to take their toll. I pleaded with a troll yesterday to stop lecturing. The first thing this morning was the same lecture.

Any Aquarium Expert that has an open mind will be amazed at what enhanced flow and Anaerobic Protection can do.

If nothing else, take my work and develop an Enhanced Door Mat. Layer all the nessessary Layers and Types to be a Perfect Mixed Mycology Mat. Cut to fit, drop it in, fill it up, good to go. Even if it takes 6 weeks it has to work better than mixed mud pie. Then>>> Wind it up, put it in a bag, take it to a friends new Sterile Tank and Presto, Instant Cycle.

My Units mount on the Wall. They are for the Zen Master who wants total clarity. When my Master calls, I can bring him a Cycled Unit in my pack. He has better things to do than wait for mud to make sour smells.
 
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Fellow Reefers, the Nitrate Destroyer is at this moment doing something amazing. My Super Duper Water Test Kit arrived moments ago. Now the final moments of the Return to Wellness are happening. The photo below is the new Test Panel and the Nitrate Levels are on the right ( they were 40 ppm 30 hours ago ). The Unit is also doing amazing things to Ammonia ( 4 ppm at start ). The Nitrate Level was 5 ppm to start and is now .5 ppm. If I wait to post tomorrow, it will read Zeros and look staged. This is the First Time that this Bio Reactor Technology has been seen by anyone but me. You can make one yourself from the Threads. Help make a difference in Marine Creature Comfort. Pass it on, Please.

901 070620 Stable Readings ETA 070720 Hard Coral.jpg New Test Panel any hour now 070620 232 pm.jpg 0623201350a.jpg complete system including Battery air backup.jpg
 

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Hello all, Once again I seen to be late to my own question. As to any reference to other designs that anyone has offered. This is my Different Tank Build based on 7 years of research with 750 gallons of Marine Ponds. What is presented is a complete solution to Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrite, and has a Protein Skimmer included. It also filters the water mechanically. When I am about to post My Different Tank Build update, suddenly someone who was doubting all my work, is an expert once again. If Lasse wants to monitor my Threads, fine. That is what this Reef 2 reef is about. What it isn't about is butting in. Lasse, I have asked you before to stay out of my threads. Your conduct has been noted. Do your own stuff Lasse, I can handle all my Threads just fine. My hope is that you stay out of my up coming Dwarf Seahorse Tank Build. Monitor yes, speak for me, no. Isn't that clear yet ?
PS: just so we can call this Unit by a real name ( before someone else does ) or an article about Designer Hats gets repurposed, this is a Thread about the ANNEX REACTOR that sounds like an anagram for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Executioner or ANNEX the System is an ANNEX Reactor System. It requires about 1 / 2 sq ft of the Knitted Material for every gallon. That scales from the Different Tank at 5 sq ft ( 10 gallon ) to the Marine Ponds at 180 sq ft each. This System runs the entire Marine Parade 1100 gallons in Marine and Fresh. If anyone has been running This System for 7 years , Let Me Know. Otherwise Lasse, get out of My Cab and Hail your own.

System Id Nomenclature A ( Ammonia ), N ( Nitrite ), ( N ) Nitrate, EX ( Executioner ), XX ( system number 00 > 99, Zip Code The first Public System was premiered on Reef 2 Reef, by Member Henn, and will now be Posted Occasional as ( The Different Tank ) ANNEX0191303
Beta ANNEX System. Build your own and register the System ID. Maybe there will be a prize.
 
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Hi all, The Different Tank was done recycling this morning so I started Scaping.

Please call the Reactor an ANNEX Reactor. It stands for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Exterminator it needs a name and it seems a small favor to indulge the developer of this method. It can be Inoculated with any water type from Fresh to Brine Lake. It was made for all aquatic things. Clean it well if changing microbial environments. The Unit replaces ever aspect of Marine Water Management. It can be moved to other Tanks. It takes about 4 days ( see thread for initial photos ) to Build Up. The Tank had fish from the 2 nd day. The Nitrate Peaked at day 3 or 4. It then crashed to Hard Coral Levels in 3 days. This is not some trick absorbent or chemical treatment. The Nitrogenous Compounds are gone. The bacteria find the Fabric and Water flow refreshing. Happy bacteria are fruitful bacteria. Instead of a mixed mash mud fest in stagnate water, Happy well cleaned Bacteria can do what took 6 weeks in 4 days. Imagine Anaerobic bacteria that have been treated like scum all their lives, suddenly have a luxury Apartment. They live in Anaerobic Paradise, food appears just outside the door in the stinky corridor. One quick grab and it's dinnertime. Toss the trash back out and it disappears. I've heard that at some Anaerobic parties they serve Kitty Roca. I can't fathom what's in the punch bowl.

To Identify these Systems it would be nice to have a Name ANNEX = Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Exterminator Reactor. When in a System it is a ANNEX System. The System Described is a full Function ANNEX System. Making your own for now is the only way on earth to have one. It is not a piece of a System, it is all you need to run your own Different Tank. Use 1 / 2 a sq ft of the Knitted Material for each gallon. This System has 6 sq ft total for extra. All Flow is by Air. If the Crushed Coral is eliminated, cover the Glued Air stone ( abrasion ) or use Balsa. This tank is 100 % Larva Friendly, Remove the Parents after spawning. This Unit is the Gravel and the Dry Coral that isn't around anymore. It works in an otherwise Empty Tank. I use Crushed Coral to hold up my Flower Arrangements, not purify the water.

Join the fight against the Army of Darkness, build something that no one has. This Tank runs on one Air Pump, it has no parts that need replacement, the Protein Cannon is also the only Water Exchange. There are no Water Changes. Run the Cannon on full and top off in the morning ( 1 / 2 gallon or so ). Keep in mind that this is the first tank. This Unit Concept is my 35 gallon Marine Tub Filter ( Just ABS Pipe and a Hydroponic Air Pump ) that supports a Dwarf Seahorse Breeding Corral. That works fine so,,, why not a Tank. Guess it works pretty good. If someone can wind two bandages and trim a 5 ml dropper they can do Hard Coral.

This Different Tank is ANNEX System ( VS just ANNEX Matrix ) or ANNEXS0191303 give your System an Official Name. Maybe we could have a Forum. Since nobody knows squat about ANNEX Systems or sizes it might be fun. The Nano Tank People should enjoy this. The Bobbin can hold enough Material for a 40 gallon. There might be issues about Flow. That is why the Tank is set up as it is. It is totally complete and self contained. The Marine Pond Material is handled only when a Pump breaks. Add food, top off, Scape, and enjoy. Wasn't that the whole idea? >>>> We need Peppermint Shrimp. Can some one set one up with some shrimp, once they spawn, get the adults out. You might win a prize or become famous, or something like that :>)

One persons ceiling is another ones floor

complete ANNEX Reactor System.jpg The Different Tank is still alive.jpg entire system layout.jpg lasse go home.jpg Ready to Frag in the morning 070720.jpg scimmer operation of trimmed 5 ml dropper.jpg any questions.jpg
 

HAVE YOU EVER KEPT A RARE/UNCOMMON FISH, CORAL, OR INVERT? SHOW IT OFF IN THE THREAD!

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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