I don’t like reading this. It’s never been good when my fish acted like this. The first thing I would watch for is bullying or tension.
I never picked it up. I’m sure it’s been sold. I’ll grab another but may go younger. That guy is pretty mature but does look great
So far in my tank I've never observed any bullying. The yellow is skittish and darts behind the rocks when someone walks into the office. I usually walk very slowly to my desk. But the leopard is a sweetheart. Goes all around all day long and comes to the glass to say hi.
So they are going to bed right before lights out.So far in my tank I've never observed any bullying. The yellow is skittish and darts behind the rocks when someone walks into the office. I usually walk very slowly to my desk. But the leopard is a sweetheart. Goes all around all day long and comes to the glass to say hi.
I'll keep an eye on them. My light schedule starts to drop around 1-2pm:
Maybe I'll bring those peaks/troughs a bit closer together and raise whites a bit more--I've been meaning to slowly raise whites anyway. Think they are thinking that the 1-2pm dip is evening?
The lights oscillate in a Saxby-type schedule. The final peak is at about 5:45pm and then ramps down to lights out by 9pm. Previously, the yellow wrasse was staying up till around 3pm and the leopard till 4-5pm... oh wait
That’s all it takes. Some of my leopards would be thrown way off because of an hour time change.The lights oscillate in a Saxby-type schedule. The final peak is at about 5:45pm and then ramps down to lights out by 9pm. Previously, the yellow wrasse was staying up till around 3pm and the leopard till 4-5pm... oh wait
Just connected to the lights and they were an hour ahead, so the lights were actually just coming on at 5am instead of 6am... which means their lights aren't aligned to their feeding schedule like it was before the time change.
Awesome son!
My yellow wrasse did this today but came back out about two hours later. It’s a new upgrade so maybe it got spooked. Haven’t seen it do that before today though. New tank has been up for 7 days.
Thanks. Already had a Yellow Coris and a Yellowfin Flasher Wrasse, but they were able to jump through the lid. The lid had loose nylon strings. So I put a dot of super glue on each spot of the strings of the lid (where the strings cross each other - picture)
Don’t do it. All thalassoma are aggressive, some species are highly aggressive. Adding one will eventually lead to the demise of your flasher, leopards, and anthias.
Well that's a shame
@Slocke it wasn't me!!!Thanks. Already had a Yellow Coris and a Yellowfin Flasher Wrasse, but they were able to jump through the lid. The lid had loose nylon strings. So I put a dot of super glue on each spot of the strings of the lid (where the strings cross each other - picture)
And here's the pinkies to pick from
No need to jump to copper. Let them adjust and feed well before meds. I would put more pvc hiding fittings in there.Hello Everyone,
I have a pair of leopards that completed the R2R QT, and I’m looking to retool up my QT setup for a Vivien’s Leopard and a Yellow Tail Tamarin.
Are there any suggestions regarding the Vivien’s and the Yellow Tail? I’ve read that those are more copper intolerant than the Leopards I’m QTing now, and stress easier during initial acclimation in the QT tank.
My current Leopard Wrasse QT setup was is a 28”x18”x18” tank with fluval 50 HOB, sicce micra, heater, 10” airstone w/ oversized air pump, 8”x8”x3” sand dish, 4 marinepure cubes preseeded in the sump for bacteria and then saturated with pods (new ones used for each setup to avoid Prazi resistance), and an AI Prime HD to condition their schedule to my timezone.
Thanks!!
