The right UV sterilizer/pump for a RedSea Reefer 300

[jandin101]

I'm considering getting a UV sterilizer for a little bit of extra algae/cyano control, but i've been a little overwhelmed in my research and want to check in to see if I have the right idea for my tank.

I have a Reefer 300XL that is technically 80 gallons but with an actual volume that is probably around 70-75 (I never fully calculated it). In researching it looks like a lot of companies have 15w sterilizers that are more space efficient with lower suggested GPH but only rated for tanks up to 75gallons like the Aqua Ultraviolet 15w. The next step up seems to be a 25w that needs higher flow rates and is rated for tanks up to 130-150 gallons. The sterilizer itself would be bigger, more expensive, but also require a beefier pump to get the suggested flow rate.

The bigger sterilizer is much bigger than I think I need, so I'm currently leaning towards a 15w like the Aqua Illumination's 15 HOB UV with a pump rated for around 700 GPH to feed it. I would use the HOB model and hang it on the back of the display and pump the water up from the sump.

Is there anything I'm missing in my plan here?

 

[Spare time]

A UV sterilizer will not help control cyano or algae on rocks. Only pelagic algae like phytoplankton

 

[jandin101]

A UV sterilizer will not help control cyano or algae on rocks. Only pelagic algae like phytoplankton

I don't think that statement is completely accurate. Most resources i've searched online argue that it helps as a preventative measure by killing free-floating bacteria and algae spores. If the flow rate is slow enough, it will also kill more complex lifeforms like copepods.

I take that to mean that it won't kill what's on my rocks already, but it should help control the spread and help to thwart these pests taking hold if they are ever accidentally introduced. Considering that cyano can spread through the water column and algae can spread through spores that free-float in the water they would definitely be affected by the UV.

 

[Gundy]

There are a lot things to consider when purchasing a UV sterilizer. First of all you need to consider if you will ever use it for Protozoa control. If so, you will need a unit that is substantially larger than for algae control. Many people buy a unit that they can do both. Plumb it correctly with a separate pump so you can control the needed flow. Do your research and buy a quality unit and buy a unit that is substantially bigger than you need. The bulbs loose efficiency over time and with a UV, bigger is always better.
If you really want to get your sizing right, calculate how many watts you need for your tank size. You will find this info in doing your research and there is tons of info here on R2R.

 

[Spare time]

I don't think that statement is completely accurate. Most resources i've searched online argue that it helps as a preventative measure by killing free-floating bacteria and algae spores. If the flow rate is slow enough, it will also kill more complex lifeforms like copepods.

I take that to mean that it won't kill what's on my rocks already, but it should help control the spread and help to thwart these pests taking hold if they are ever accidentally introduced. Considering that cyano can spread through the water column and algae can spread through spores that free-float in the water they would definitely be affected by the UV.

This is from experience working in LFS's that have massive UV sterilizers, as well a having used UV sterilizers on tanks of my own. BRS also did a video on this. It does aid with bacterial blooms and phytoplankton but really that is it. Arguably in most tanks it just takes food away from corals that can consume bacterioplankton. Hypothetically they would help with algae, but in practice this just doesn't seem to be the case.

 

[Doctorgori]

I have that tank:
Syncra 6.0
and for UV a Lifegard 25W

 

[jandin101]

I have that tank:
Syncra 6.0
and for UV a Lifegard 25W

How has that worked for you? Does it have a dedicated pump or do you have it connected to your return pump with a manifold?

After reading Gundy's reply, I'm thinking it might be better to round up and get the larger unit. Although with Spare Time's comment I'm almost rethinking the whole thing.

How do you have yours connected to your system? I noticed that the lifeguard has a 3" input and output which I think is bigger than the plumbing equipment under my tank. I don't see anything in the product description about adapters.

 

[Doctorgori]

How has that worked for you? Does it have a dedicated pump or do you have it connected to your return pump with a manifold?

After reading Gundy's reply, I'm thinking it might be better to round up and get the larger unit. Although with Spare Time's comment I'm almost rethinking the whole thing.

How do you have yours connected to your system? I noticed that the lifeguard has a 3" input and output which I think is bigger than the plumbing equipment under my tank. I don't see anything in the product description about adapters.

I had a really bad itch outbreak a year ago, spread to 2 of 4 tanks … I have no direct data UV “cures” ich but this tank never got it ..I got UVs on all tanks now

The Syncra 6 is slight overkill… I had a Syncra 3 and it worked OK as my output is kept under 300 gph for better contact time

the UV is plumbed in-line and I imagine 25W should be enough

 

[jandin101]

I had a really bad itch outbreak a year ago, spread to 2 of 4 tanks … I have no direct data UV “cures” ich but this tank never got it ..I got UVs on all tanks now

The Syncra 6 is slight overkill… I had a Syncra 3 and it worked OK as my output is kept under 300 gph for better contact time

the UV is plumbed in-line and I imagine 25W should be enough

Thanks for the info!

How did you plumb it? Did you need any adapters for it to fit onto the return plumbing?