Milwaukee makes a waterproof for $75.thanks any links waterproof lux meter would be a big help
You can also just put the meter in a ziplock bag.
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Milwaukee makes a waterproof for $75.thanks any links waterproof lux meter would be a big help
Looking into my SB (and it appears similar to what I have seen on other BBs) this is the dimming circuit.I think that’s a good distinction. If they ramp natively, then modding them shouldn’t be any different. But I think I would be cautious of the standard plain Jane BB with just a resistive dimming control. I’m hesitant to do this, though I’d really love to, on my SB basics.
Correction, it does actually put out 0-10V PWM. 0-10V analog does not work on the SB basic.Looking into my SB (and it appears similar to what I have seen on other BBs) this is the dimming circuit.
https://www.dhgate.com/product/dimmers-replacement-for-chinese-black-box/257420958.html
and these are the drivers that were in the SB 32" Basic.
http://www.nldriver.com/product/product239.html
The dimmer circuit is powered by an internal 12V supply, and drops it down to a 0-10V analog output (not PWM).
Sorry about the technical stuffs.Just. Can't. Go. Though. 164. Technical. Lighting. Posts. ;Dead
Can someone bottom line it for me - I have a Viparspectra 165w with what claim to be 90 degree lenses. I'm getting a little bit of disco. It's probably 10 inches off the water. Can I get away with moving it up higher, just removing lenses, or do I need to replace select lenses, and if so, with what?
Sorry about the technical stuffs.
How deep is your tank?
No problem. The idea is to get the white channel defused as possible. Keep the blue channel on 90s and the whites with 120s or lensless. If you ho without lenses might have to up the white channel. Really though if the blue channel is at a higher intensity with said alterations, you should see limited disco.Duh, sorry, really should have given specs. It's a standard 180G, 6'x2'x2'. I bought one Viparspar to see what I thought, plan was/is to get two more (one for each 2' cube). Like I said, seeing a little disco.
No problem. The idea is to get the white channel defused as possible. Keep the blue channel on 90s and the whites with 120s or lensless. If you ho without lenses might have to up the white channel. Really though if the blue channel is at a higher intensity with said alterations, you should see limited disco.
Do you have a par meter or access to one?OK, great, am going to raise the light a bit tonight and see what that does, if not I will try removing the white lenses. Might be a "snow day" here in the northeast tomorrow, good day for tinkering. Right now I haven't added any coral, and I'm running something like 40% Blue/20% White.
Do you have a par meter or access to one?
There are cheaper routes like using a lux meter but when you start adding and pulling lenses, you get shifts that can increase or decrease. I use a Seneye that I got on sale for $150. Definitely helps.Don't have one - my buddy might, and I plan on getting more involved in my local club, so that might be an option, too. I see your point from asking the question, though - if I'm going to set this up and plan on using it to grow coral, I really should do it "right" to start.
There are cheaper routes like using a lux meter but when you start adding and pulling lenses, you get shifts that can increase or decrease. I use a Seneye that I got on sale for $150. Definitely helps.
No disrespect here but how warm do you want your lights? I ask because the ideal spectrum of 14k to 20k is what we want if we are growing coral. Increasing whites over blues percentage wise will create a more disco effect. That disco effect can be seen across all LEDs unless you opt for a diffuser of some sort. And ya, more LEDs can create better blending depending on light spread.I pulled all the white lenses, left the blues. I kept the blue channel at 40, and cranked the whites from 20 to 60. Looked ok . . . Until I installed the two non-modified lights on either side for comparison. No matter what I do, Blue is a very prominent on the “middle” (modified) light. Oddly enough, the disco effect I noticed on the light - the reason I started this - seems to have disappeared on the “new” two outer lights. I’m not sure if it’s because the three are just blending together, if the diffused light out of the middle is having an effect, or both.
I think I may just put the lenses back on the middle light and see how I like it for a few months. Dumb question - what kind of glue?
No disrespect here but how warm do you want your lights?
I just use a tiny dab of gel super glue for the lenses. I do this for easy removal later on.
None taken - I don’t know what the heck I’m doing!! Here is what it looks like - middle was modified, outside are “stock.”
Weird. Did you remove the white LEDs? Almost looks like they arent even on??It’s not so much cool v. warm, it’s just that it looks dark and shadowed. I will play with it a bit before I unmodify.
Weird. Did you remove the white LEDs? Almost looks like they arent even on??