The Modified Black Box Thread

Squidmantis

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Anybody there? :cool:

In the meanwhile I took a look at the Profilux Light controller manual :


If I got right EVG-AP-2F or Breakout box are necessary for other brand lamp you are gonna connect to Profilux.
I attached the starting part of the manual regarding the lightning...

What do you think about it?

Thanks

Cheers

571FE859-3BD6-48F4-BBEA-9727A5075537.jpeg
 

Omgitsjoe

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Wow... what a read. I just read through everything and after talking to some people I decided to purchase:

My questions:
1. Do I need to violate my light and start swapping diodes to get a more optimal spectrum or is this light good?
2. Would it be beneficial to just swap out the board with this one from SB? https://sbreeflights.com/sbox-replacement-parts/6-sbox-replacement-pcb-board.html
3.What corals would I NOT be able to grow using this setup?

I understand there are a lot of variables that go into play (Height, placement etc.) Im questioning the light itself, not how I place it on my tank.
 

Heabel7

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Wow... what a read. I just read through everything and after talking to some people I decided to purchase:

My questions:
1. Do I need to violate my light and start swapping diodes to get a more optimal spectrum or is this light good?
2. Would it be beneficial to just swap out the board with this one from SB? https://sbreeflights.com/sbox-replacement-parts/6-sbox-replacement-pcb-board.html
3.What corals would I NOT be able to grow using this setup?

I understand there are a lot of variables that go into play (Height, placement etc.) Im questioning the light itself, not how I place it on my tank.
I bought the same but with WiFi app (original app). Actual schedule works fine but randomly turn on at night. So I have an auto timer set to keep them off during the night.

1. They grew everything fine stock. However, they were a little to 10k for me with 100% blue 50 white channel.
2. Might be.. but you could have just bought sblights with a better warranty for that price. but you can DIY with some soldering skills for much less. FYI unlike other companies black boxes. Each LED is soldered to the board. Not just the contacts but the actual LED heat spreader is soldered to the aluminum. Makes changing them very time consuming. In addition you need to hunt down the 45mil chips. A lot of the cheap ones on eBay are as small as 27mil. makes a HUGE difference. Hunt around and spend a few more dollars for actual epistar/bridgelux 45mil LEDs
3. You can grow everything

Personally I have switched out so many LEDs on my unit it is nothing like before. Added lower end UV, more royal blue, replaced some 14k white with 20k, removed 2 red, added cyan, removed some 2700k. I tried to mimic Orphek to my best ability. But it was still very white/yellow for me. I also noticed that anything close to the AB+ was mostly blue and UV with 10%ish red/white/green. So I changed enough LEDs that I can run both channels at The same percentage and get a AB+ look.
I modded one light at a time so I could monitor any changes. Each time I have modded I have noticed better colors and growth on the mods. In addition, 2 lights do not fully cover a 4ft tank at 12” off the surface. I believe I’d have to go 18+ and lose par. My new task is to figure out how to balance the hotspot in the middle and get better spread with adequate par. Hence color mod to run both channels at 100%. Started removing lenses and sanding the acrylic. Will be renting a par meter soon to finish mods.

After all this fun. I wish I just had money to buy some ReeFi lights. They look amazing.
 

Omgitsjoe

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I bought the same but with WiFi app (original app). Actual schedule works fine but randomly turn on at night. So I have an auto timer set to keep them off during the night.

1. They grew everything fine stock. However, they were a little to 10k for me with 100% blue 50 white channel.
2. Might be.. but you could have just bought sblights with a better warranty for that price. but you can DIY with some soldering skills for much less. FYI unlike other companies black boxes. Each LED is soldered to the board. Not just the contacts but the actual LED heat spreader is soldered to the aluminum. Makes changing them very time consuming. In addition you need to hunt down the 45mil chips. A lot of the cheap ones on eBay are as small as 27mil. makes a HUGE difference. Hunt around and spend a few more dollars for actual epistar/bridgelux 45mil LEDs
3. You can grow everything

Personally I have switched out so many LEDs on my unit it is nothing like before. Added lower end UV, more royal blue, replaced some 14k white with 20k, removed 2 red, added cyan, removed some 2700k. I tried to mimic Orphek to my best ability. But it was still very white/yellow for me. I also noticed that anything close to the AB+ was mostly blue and UV with 10%ish red/white/green. So I changed enough LEDs that I can run both channels at The same percentage and get a AB+ look.
I modded one light at a time so I could monitor any changes. Each time I have modded I have noticed better colors and growth on the mods. In addition, 2 lights do not fully cover a 4ft tank at 12” off the surface. I believe I’d have to go 18+ and lose par. My new task is to figure out how to balance the hotspot in the middle and get better spread with adequate par. Hence color mod to run both channels at 100%. Started removing lenses and sanding the acrylic. Will be renting a par meter soon to finish mods.

After all this fun. I wish I just had money to buy some ReeFi lights. They look amazing.

$169 for 2 fixtures? I thought that was a pretty good deal. Do you have a link to some cheaper ones?

thanks!
 

Heabel7

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Crap.. just realized this wasnt the wifi model. Canceling order now. Cheapest wifi model you know of?
The same model with WiFi just a bit more plus 3 channels of control with ramping. Worth it. Thinking also now they on 2nd generation app. Probably more reliable then mine. Also I did have a WiFi module fail in the 1st year. It took a few days on eBay mail through China, but they did send me one for free.
 

Omgitsjoe

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The same model with WiFi just a bit more plus 3 channels of control with ramping. Worth it. Thinking also now they on 2nd generation app. Probably more reliable then mine. Also I did have a WiFi module fail in the 1st year. It took a few days on eBay mail through China, but they did send me one for free.


Im about to place the order now. They are $99 a piece. Think two would be good for 48"x18"x21" ?
 

Heabel7

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Im about to place the order now. They are $99 a piece. Think two would be good for 48"x18"x21" ?
Yep just know if evenly spaced you will have some small shadowing on edges. But overall with the 120 lenses it does good on 48” with 2 units. Old picture but you can see it on the edges plus the blockage of light from middle brace.

B7328AA9-A274-4DFA-9FA2-29081D55AAB3.jpeg
 

crusso1993

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Flippers4pups

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I do not know exactly what he used but @Flippers4pups has made some big modifications to his MarsAqua lights. Maybe he'll speak up.

The new boards are a mystery to me yes I'm not quite sure what type of LED diode they are. I am certain that they are applied by heating the whole board/PCB. I am certain I could unsolder them by using techniques that found on the internet. What diode they are, uncertain, what I have to dig through some of my research as there are a couple different types of diodes that are applied this way.
He was using the old LEDs that you could solder on the older boards unfortunately

Yes, that diode form factor is no longer being used in manufacturing for these boards. Not sure exactly when the change happened, possibly 2018/2019?
 

AquaRaider44

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The new boards are a mystery to me yes I'm not quite sure what type of LED diode they are. I am certain that they are applied by heating the whole board/PCB. I am certain I could unsolder them by using techniques that found on the internet. What diode they are, uncertain, what I have to dig through some of my research as there are a couple different types of diodes that are applied this way.


Yes, that diode form factor is no longer being used in manufacturing for these boards. Not sure exactly when the change happened, possibly 2018/2019?
Sucks that nobody has found a source yet but I have contacted these people https://tczmled.en.alibaba.com/prod....html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.88.30.575bd280HmAxi3 about these leds and am hoping for a response soon!
 

Reefs of Space

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Can you link those
Just cheap ebay 45mil 3w epistars
I had to scratch the black coating off to expose the positive and negative copper onlays. You have to offset it from where the SMD was. The bottom of the new led will make the connection on the tiny positive and negative and bypass the new led.

20191021_172443(1).jpg 20191021_172257(1).jpg 20191021_180536(1).jpg
 

Reefs of Space

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77onReef

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was wanting to begin with so, it's now at 21,000 lux for this coral.
dd that his is doing it to him and no one else is.
I think the question would be what is the pulse at and doe
The white, red, and green leds create the most disco effect if that is what you are trying to eliminate. Having uniform patterns makes it more pronounced. I kept the reds and greens with 120s and I alternated the whites between 90 clear and beaded and then some 120s. It may not make sense at first
 

StatelineReefer

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Mouser has the 3030 smds available now. OSRAM OSLON and CREE XPE lines.

The SMDs are best removed with a rework hot air station, electronics ASD tweezers, and a little patience. replacement is as simple as tinning the pad they sit on and letting your hot air tool do the work. Do NOT linger the hot air over a good LED you plan to reuse, it will melt the thermal pad inside the SMD and cause your chip to overheat and die in short order. Instead heat the board, and with the solder at a good reflow temperature, place the LED on the pad as you remove the hot air.
 

AquaRaider44

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Mouser has the 3030 smds available now. OSRAM OSLON and CREE XPE lines.

The SMDs are best removed with a rework hot air station, electronics ASD tweezers, and a little patience. replacement is as simple as tinning the pad they sit on and letting your hot air tool do the work. Do NOT linger the hot air over a good LED you plan to reuse, it will melt the thermal pad inside the SMD and cause your chip to overheat and die in short order. Instead heat the board, and with the solder at a good reflow temperature, place the LED on the pad as you remove the hot air.
Links please as I do not see any 3w ones.
 
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HAVE YOU EVER KEPT A RARE/UNCOMMON FISH, CORAL, OR INVERT? SHOW IT OFF IN THE THREAD!

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