I have an air stone added and my water ripples at the top. Can it still be low O2?The angel seems to be breathing slightly fast. My trigger is at the top shooting water out. Just did WC, replaced filters and added microbacter 7.
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I have an air stone added and my water ripples at the top. Can it still be low O2?The angel seems to be breathing slightly fast. My trigger is at the top shooting water out. Just did WC, replaced filters and added microbacter 7.
There may be an oxygen issue. What is method of filtration and how are you testing the water ?The angel seems to be breathing slightly fast. My trigger is at the top shooting water out. Just did WC, replaced filters and added microbacter 7.
@Jay Hemdal @vetteguy53081 any idea on what this could be. Doing a large WC now so wondering if I could do anything different to help, also changing chemipure and filter pads. Will be adding cuprisorb tomorrow when it comes in. Also have bottle of Fritz turbo 900 on hand.
I don't quite follow the first sentence. Ich isn't the only pathogen. Also, whether or not ich is in the system, QTing and treating for active ick (and other pathogens) might be necessary on new arrivals, and this is way more better done in a QT -- less medication needed, easier to remove chemical filtration while medicating, doesn't make dead rock out of live rock. Also, medicating fish in the DT subjects all the fish to the medication, which isn't good for those fish that don't need medication. Also, QT allows the keeper (a) to get some baseline familiarity with the individual specimen (is this one a poor eater in general? a hider? etc), (b) to get the fish familiar with your water parameters and procedures before another big move and without the extra stress of working into the pecking order in a DT, (c) get a fish eating without competition. QT allows the keeper to salinity match with the LFS before putting the fish in, and then changing salinity over the course of days/weeks to match that of the DT.I dont quarantine anymore because an Ich infected fish was put into my tank. How do you suggest improving filtration? And decreasing bioload (less fish, feed less) I feel like I do less of those compared to other users on here. I’m thinking of getting a UV sterilizer not sure how that will help with ammonia but it will help with free floating bacteria and parasites.
I’m going to try to provide as much details to you as I can. I really appreciate your help!I don't quite follow the first sentence. Ich isn't the only pathogen. Also, whether or not ich is in the system, QTing and treating for active ick (and other pathogens) might be necessary on new arrivals, and this is way more better done in a QT -- less medication needed, easier to remove chemical filtration while medicating, doesn't make dead rock out of live rock. Also, medicating fish in the DT subjects all the fish to the medication, which isn't good for those fish that don't need medication. Also, QT allows the keeper (a) to get some baseline familiarity with the individual specimen (is this one a poor eater in general? a hider? etc), (b) to get the fish familiar with your water parameters and procedures before another big move and without the extra stress of working into the pecking order in a DT, (c) get a fish eating without competition. QT allows the keeper to salinity match with the LFS before putting the fish in, and then changing salinity over the course of days/weeks to match that of the DT.
I can't answer the filtration and other questions, since you've not given any info to go on. What exactly is the bioload (species, sizes)? What exactly is the filtration (what model skimmer? Is it skimming? How much skimmate?) What exactly are your procedures (feeding, water changes) ? What are the ongoing parameters (do you keep a log)? What's the rejection rate of the RO (you mentioned a concern that there's chlorine getting through the RO -- that's a big problem, if true)? What exactly is the timeline relative to fish additions and losses? Are the fish all from the same source? What's the transport procedure (e.g. do they get cold on the ride home?). What's the acclimation procedure?
These details are going to be crucial. For example, in post #37 you noticed spots on the angel. In #38 you're doing a 50% water change -- really stressful (and was the water temp and salinity matched? Do you pull off half the tank water and then replace it all at once, or is this a gradual process? What's the procedure here?), especially if the angel is presenting with something. In post #40 the angel is showing new symptoms and the trigger is acting off -- that's a clue that the WC exacerbated something, but this can only be determined by going over everything with a fine toothed comb.
Some photos, and details on a timeline, would really help troubleshoot.
There’s some red bruises on this fish too now. Some red discoloration on the other side. Is this some sort of illness. If it’s caused by water qualityc, I already did big WC.Given the rapid onset and elevated breathing rate, this could be a very serious issue. Water change and adding aeration will help if it is an environmental issue. It could be a disease (Amyloodinium perhaps) but that would likely only be an issue if you've added new fish in the past month or two.
If you'd like, you can start a independent thread about this issue:
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Aquarium Fish Disease Problem Solving Determining the best course of action for a problem with your aquarium can be a difficult task. Even advanced aquarists will often need to seek the help of others for complicated or unique issues. Our intent here on Reef 2 Reef is to offer expert advice...www.reef2reef.com
Jay
Salifert great. The only reason I say that is the syringe have flat cups if you will no guessing also proved that API errs on the high sideTook my water to another LFS, he tested with API, I told him I have that and he proceeds to tell me how it’s the most accurate test for “tanks like this”. I got my chemipure blue and fritz turbo 900 in today. I’ve also ordered all new test kits, salifert. Thinking of ordering Hannah for ammonia but it wouldn’t come in for another week and I want to test now so Salifert.
Going to do a large WC thinking 50% tonight. Replace chemipure elite with my chemi blue and replace my filter pads. After the WC, will add my fritz, if it is ammonia hoping the bacteria will help establish a better bio filter to a heavier bioload. Any ideas?
It comes in today and I’ve saved some old water if you will before the WC yesterday. That’s the first thing I’m doing tonight, hopefully will give some answers.Salifert great. The only reason I say that is the syringe have flat cups if you will no guessing also proved that API errs on the high side
Just tested water (prior WC) with salifert for ammonia. I’m thinking it’s 0.15, max 0.25 doesn’t have a yellow hue. So it’s not ammonia that killed the fish. Could it really be a disease?It comes in today and I’ve saved some old water if you will before the WC yesterday. That’s the first thing I’m doing tonight, hopefully will give some answers.
Any other water quality parameters I should be keenly checking? I’m waiting for my ph, nitrite kits to come in tomorrow, will check and update.Just tested water (prior WC) with salifert for ammonia. I’m thinking it’s 0.15, max 0.25 doesn’t have a yellow hue. So it’s not ammonia that killed the fish. Could it really be a disease?
I’m sorry I don’t understand what you mean. I read your coral Microbiome and has good info for when I’m going to add coral, I did note my ph was low a few weeks ago, raised it recently wondering if that could have done anything?Understanding the Coral Biome and Microbiome | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog
As our understanding of corals and coral reefs has increased over the past few decades it has become increasingly clear that a coral reef and even each individual coral is far more diverse than we…reefbuilders.com
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The article is a good read for any tank. I saw you were going to use Fritz.I’m sorry I don’t understand what you mean. I read your coral Microbiome and has good info for when I’m going to add coral, I did note my ph was low a few weeks ago, raised it recently wondering if that could have done anything?
I remembered one of the frozen food packets I feed was left out and completely thawed before I refroze it, could that do something with bacteria?Sterilizer will address free floating organisms and not erase what is existing on fish. the fish shows facial erosion which in part caused by water quality and dietary issues.
For nitrate, ive seen some tests and studies showing successful use of amquel for nitrate reduction but may or may not work opposed to water changes and reduced feeding/feeding quantity.
What foods are you offering and is fish breathing at a rapid rate or normal?
Often not but possible if contamination began as it is in essence- seafoodI remembered one of the frozen food packets I feed was left out and completely thawed before I refroze it, could that do something with bacteria?