T5 tecommendation

PharmrJohn

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OK. This is a question for all you old timers. My old equipment is not going to be used for my up and coming set up. Except for my lighting. I have an old school TEK 8x54W 48". I used to run something like 2x12K, 4x 14K and 2x18K Actinic. Not sure anymore. I know I can use this for SPS in to top half of the tank. And that'll be good enough for a year or two. Then I'll end up with a Photon V2 Pro 48". I'm just confirming that the above bulbs will satisfy the spectrum required for Softies, LPS and SPS. TIA. J.

Just thought of something else. The order of the bulbs from front to back. Thx.
 

Big E

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First off, a Photon V2 Pro 48" is not going to do as good of a job as your Tek fixture. This is also going to be old tech in a few years and I would guess Reefbreeders will stop selling them as soon as their inventory runs out.

They are coming out with a new fixture.

You need two Photons to create the same coverage which is the number one consideration for acro dominated systems.

The Tek fixture you have is just as good as an 8 bulb Sunpower.

I would do Blue+ Coral+ combo alternating or you can swap in a few Actinics.

This would work fine front to back---
Blue+
Coral+
Actinic
Blue+
Coral+
Actinic
Blue+
Coral+

Get the Geisman bulbs on sale and stock up---

Actinic Blue= ATI blue+
Aqua Blue= ATI coral+
Super Actinic has more par than ATI actinic

I would also recommend two Orphek Icons over anything Reefbreeders has when you're ready to buy LED.
 

Reefering1

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Agree with above.
What are the tank dimensions? A 8 bulb t5 fixture Is likely all you would ever need. Nothing beats the coverage of t5
 
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PharmrJohn

PharmrJohn

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The tank is gonna be a 90G standard. 48x18x24
 
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fishface NJ

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6 bulb is all you need but you can use your 8 bulb fixture. Maybe just don’t use the second switch that turns on the outer bulbs. I have a 48” - 6 bulbs TEK on my Acro tank. From front to back the tank is 18”. I am only turning on the inner 4 bulbs.
 

nereefpat

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An 8 bulb Tek T5 will grow anything, anywhere in the tank.

I don't like ATI's actinic bulbs, as they are so dim to the eye that I can barely tell that they are on. Giesemann actinics are better, IMO. Blue+ and Coral+ are both great. If you go heavy on the blue+, I would suggest a single Purple+ in there to counter the "green" of the Blue+.

Giesemann is another great brand, I agree.
I used to run something like 2x12K, 4x 14K and 2x18K Actinic. Not sure anymore.
I don't know what those would have been. Maybe Coralife?

Anyway, I would run ATI and/or Giesemann.
 

spsick

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+ to what Big E said, start with 4x Blue plus and 4x coral plus and change 1-2 bulbs if you like. I like 1 purple plus in there to bring out the pinks a little more.
 

oreo54

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Here is the link to the bulbs---
The Geismann is much "whiter" (RGB-wise) than the ATI..
ativsgei.JPG

Also...

Orig thread w/some interesting historical facts:
supreactinicphillips.JPG
 
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PharmrJohn

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An 8 bulb Tek T5 will grow anything, anywhere in the tank.

I don't like ATI's actinic bulbs, as they are so dim to the eye that I can barely tell that they are on. Giesemann actinics are better, IMO. Blue+ and Coral+ are both great. If you go heavy on the blue+, I would suggest a single Purple+ in there to counter the "green" of the Blue+.

Giesemann is another great brand, I agree.

I don't know what those would have been. Maybe Coralife?

Anyway, I would run ATI and/or Giesemann.

Honestly, I cannot remember what the spectrum of bulbs were in there. I just remember 14K average and I got them from ATI. What I put down was an approximation. I tell ya, my 60 year old brain just doesn't remember details the way my 20 year old brain did.
 

Big E

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The Geismann is much "whiter" (RGB-wise) than the ATI..
ativsgei.JPG

Also...

Orig thread w/some interesting historical facts:
supreactinicphillips.JPG

I know the Actnics are different and just said the Geissmann is more potent and a better bulb.
I like them better.

I'm not sure what you posted on the Power Chrome Aqua blue+?? The bulb is the Chrome Aqua Blue. Anyways, they perform and look the same as the ATI Coral+. I have used them for 2 years

It is possible side to side you would notice a visual difference but for the discount that's available they are a steal right now.
 

oreo54

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I know the Actnics are different and just said the Geissmann is more potent and a better bulb.
I like them better.

I'm not sure what you posted on the Power Chrome Aqua blue+?? The bulb is the Chrome Aqua Blue. Anyways, they perform and look the same as the ATI Coral+. I have used them for 2 years

It is possible side to side you would notice a visual difference but for the discount that's available they are a steal right now.
I'm surprised they look the same.
The above is the "aquablue plus"..
Like this one..
he Aquablue + is specially designed for reef aquariums. With this light color, the sea is simulated to a depth of one to twenty meters. It can be used to grow SPS corals up to 80 cm in the aquarium.

Color temperature:
15,000K
NOW what does ATI say about the Coral plus?
Coral Plus: a bulb that is great for color rendition. It combines properties of the Blue Plus, the Aquablue Special, and the Purple Plus. It has a cool, white color with a bit of red and blue. Color temperature is about 150,000K+.
Now a 150,000+K bulb should not "technically" look like a 15000k bulb..;)
Not saying you are wrong and yea the 2 are sort of equivalent but the Geisseman should be more err "white" to some people.
BTW, I'm not using "white" as a bad thing..
In a mix it might be hard to tell the difference.
Or where there is nothing to highlight the difference.

I agree the price is right and Geisseman makes great bulbs.

Another comparison.
G on left ATI on right..Note the tone is about the same visually..to us.
Yea I'm splitting hairs..
geisvsati.JPG
 
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rtparty

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What no one has mentioned that will have a major impact is properly cooling the Tek fixture and bulbs. The biggest downside to the Teks was the lack of active cooling. You cannot passively cool T5HO systems and expect maximum PAR and life.
 

oreo54

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What no one has mentioned that will have a major impact is properly cooling the Tek fixture and bulbs. The biggest downside to the Teks was the lack of active cooling. You cannot passively cool T5HO systems and expect maximum PAR and life.
May be for lifespan or particular bulbs but t5ho's in general can run relatively "hot".

Screenshot_20240603-143603.png


Up to about 122F.
 

Big E

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I'm surprised they look the same.
The above is the "aquablue plus"..
Like this one..

NOW what does ATI say about the Coral plus?

Now a 150,000+K bulb should not "technically" look like a 15000k bulb..;)
Not saying you are wrong and yea the 2 are sort of equivalent but the Geisseman should be more err "white" to some people.
BTW, I'm not using "white" as a bad thing..
In a mix it might be hard to tell the difference.
Or where there is nothing to highlight the difference.

I agree the price is right and Geisseman makes great bulbs.

Another comparison.
G on left ATI on right..Note the tone is about the same visually..to us.
Yea I'm splitting hairs..
geisvsati.JPG

Yikes.................this is overkill. I know you're just trying to help but I'm just trying to save the guy some money. He has to buy the coral+ anyways cause the Aqua blue is sold out.
 
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PharmrJohn

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What no one has mentioned that will have a major impact is properly cooling the Tek fixture and bulbs. The biggest downside to the Teks was the lack of active cooling. You cannot passively cool T5HO systems and expect maximum PAR and life.
Well, it's hard to disagree with the lack of raw data I possess. However, I never had an issue with water temperatures being too high or being able to grow all sorts of corals in all three genres. But to maximize the effect? Probably an LED thing.......
Yikes.................this is overkill. I know you're just trying to help but I'm just trying to save the guy some money. He has to buy the coral+ anyways cause the Aqua blue is sold out.
LOL, and that's because I bought the very last one! Gonna need to do ATI as well.
 

rtparty

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Well, it's hard to disagree with the lack of raw data I possess. However, I never had an issue with water temperatures being too high or being able to grow all sorts of corals in all three genres. But to maximize the effect? Probably an LED thing.......

LOL, and that's because I bought the very last one! Gonna need to do ATI as well.

It's not about water temperatures. It is about the internal pressure of the T5 bulbs. They are designed to run at a specified pressure and that is dictated by keeping the cold spot (label end on ATI bulbs) on the bulb in a specific temperature range. Too hot or even too cold and the bulb does not run at those specs. This hurts PAR and life span of the bulb. Uncooled bulbs lose about 50% of their peak PAR and lifespan drops to 6-9 months. Cooling them allows them 18+ months of life.

Adding a small clip on fan blowing across the top of the Tek fixtures did wonders for PAR, bulb life, and fixture performance overall.

You can take that info and use or ignore it
 

oreo54

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Well, it's hard to disagree with the lack of raw data I possess. However, I never had an issue with water temperatures being too high or being able to grow all sorts of corals in all three genres. But to maximize the effect? Probably an LED thing.......

LOL, and that's because I bought the very last one! Gonna need to do ATI as well.
Think the point was the bulb temp.

It influences output efficiency.
Nothing to do with water temp.
Example .
Ushio t5 ultra .Not a reef bulb
Light output of these lamps
actually increases as the operating temperature increases. The light
output of the T5 lamps peak at 95
F (35C)


ATI fans cool the electrode. Bulb must be put in the correct way. I believe the writing end goes under the fan.
This is different that a hot or cool bulb though.
So point is arguable I guess. Apple to oranges
 
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PharmrJohn

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It's not about water temperatures. It is about the internal pressure of the T5 bulbs. They are designed to run at a specified pressure and that is dictated by keeping the cold spot (label end on ATI bulbs) on the bulb in a specific temperature range. Too hot or even too cold and the bulb does not run at those specs. This hurts PAR and life span of the bulb. Uncooled bulbs lose about 50% of their peak PAR and lifespan drops to 6-9 months. Cooling them allows them 18+ months of life.

Adding a small clip on fan blowing across the top of the Tek fixtures did wonders for PAR, bulb life, and fixture performance overall.

You can take that info and use or ignore it
Ohhhhhhh.......THAT kind of temperature. I seem to remember blowing a small fan across it 15 years ago. Thank you for reminding me. I'd have overlooked that big-time. Thank you!
 

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