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Can you clarify this part?I could of sworn I read that their cell wall was constructed of silicates but that must not be true.
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Can you clarify this part?I could of sworn I read that their cell wall was constructed of silicates but that must not be true.
I am well aware of dosing silicates to increase diatom populations in order to outcompete LC Amphidinium. I cannot say I know much about symbiodinium competitors yet to give you a high conviction answer. Very low risk of anything bad happening from it though.Tagging along think I am dealing with the same thing...I did come across this on reefcentral - symbiodinium looks like he did a three blackout and dosed phyto and pods while blackout. I am wondering about dosing silicates to see if they will out compete the dino's, I never tried that in the past but I think that is next on the list. I have a tester and have some water glass just need to figure out how much to dose.
@ScottB what do you think about dosing silicates, I have much less to lose, I only have a 2 leathers and a hammer. I so want to turn the corner, lol.
I will dose some silicates and see if it makes any difference, running UV from before and started dosing some MB7 which doesnt appear to make any difference but shouldn't hurt.I am well aware of dosing silicates to increase diatom populations in order to outcompete LC Amphidinium. I cannot say I know much about symbiodinium competitors yet to give you a high conviction answer. Very low risk of anything bad happening from it though.
There is another thread out there where a few people have had success by treating the tank with fluconazole. I am not personally a fan of treating the whole system with an anti-fungal unless it is overrun by bryopsis. You don't really have any choice. With these guys, I think we have choices.
I will dose some silicates and see if it makes any difference, running UV from before and started dosing some MB7 which doesnt appear to make any difference but shouldn't hurt.
gging along think I am dealing with the same thing...I did come across this on reefcentral - symbiodinium looks like he did a three blackout and dosed phyto and pods while blackout. I am wondering about dosing silicates to see if they will out compete the dino's, I never tried that in the past but I think that is next on the list. I have a tester and have some water glass just need to figure out how much to dose.
I've had small cell amphids, these are different like @ScottB has mentioned, they look like Dino's but they do not move at all under the scope, I have some pics in the other thread. Mine appear to be getting worse and would like to figure something out before it gets really bad. following along to see what may work, dosing silicate may not help but at least we will know, I do not have a lot of corals in the tank so easier for me to try stuff vs some others.Crysophytes also have a sillica wall. Dosing might actually worsen the problem.
Symbiodinium are the dinoflagellates that make symbiosis with out corals => the so called zooxantellae. The can be expelled and acquire flagella when there’s too much light but do not often survive enough to become what we call “dinoflagellate tank problem”.
If your problem is dinos it is very unlikelly it is caused by Symbiodinium...
Last but not least, if you do not have Ostreopsis, I suggest checking Cruz Arias (Elegant Corals) method.
What about h2o2 for your samples, I need some bigger containers for testing. I was just wondering what else your thinking about trying.Follow up on the bacteria experiment.
Neither the MB7 nor the Pro Bio samples exhibited anything different from the control sample over a period of 4-5 days. Beyond that period I failed to keep the salinity stable enough for a valid test.
These are quite unlike our commonly found captive system dinos.Crysophytes also have a sillica wall. Dosing might actually worsen the problem.
Symbiodinium are the dinoflagellates that make symbiosis with out corals => the so called zooxantellae. The can be expelled and acquire flagella when there’s too much light but do not often survive enough to become what we call “dinoflagellate tank problem”.
If your problem is dinos it is very unlikelly it is caused by Symbiodinium...
Last but not least, if you do not have Ostreopsis, I suggest checking Cruz Arias (Elegant Corals) method.
Hmmmm. Can't hurt to test in a beaker, right?What about h2o2 for your samples, I need some bigger containers for testing. I was just wondering what else your thinking about trying.
Bingo, I know h2o2 is not very effective on the other flavors but was thinking maybe just maybe it might be on this type...just thinking about all the other things that have been tried, thought that one would be easy to test out.Hmmmm. Can't hurt to test in a beaker, right?
Will try 1ml per liter, with light & heat.
2) Why are they so dang happy in my systems?
3) How can I manage these things down?
Thanks for the idea as it might be a more effective method of removal. Dinos are HUGE (40-50 micron IIRC) compared to these guys, but the gelatin substance should hold them together long enough to remove.Just a thought. It helped with dino. I used a 5 micron sock sucked all I could filtered through the sock and back into the tank the water went. This could be very useful here.
You could well be correct. What I have seen around here labeled as crysophytes looks a bit different than the stringy goop I see in my tanks. Under the scope, they are more similar. The taxonomy on these are all over the place -- and there are thousands of different species.These could be Crysophytes / Golden algae IMHO
Silica starvation (the same as diatoms) is the solution if this diagnosis is correct.
My RODI is 0 TDS.
I've dosed some silicates, I have yet to take a reading but will do that today. Mine appear not to be returning as quickly as you are seeing. Mine are only on the back glass and one spot in my sump and are not a daily occurrence. I've cleaned the glass yesterday and will be watching for a return, I do have high silica levels, i even added a Silica buster cartridge to my RODI setup but I get diatoms on my glass after a few days. I've confirmed that its diatoms under the scope, since I have a bare bottom I can only assume its coming from my dry rock, nothing else in the tank.You could well be correct. What I have seen around here labeled as crysophytes looks a bit different than the stringy goop I see in my tanks. Under the scope, they are more similar. The taxonomy on these are all over the place -- and there are thousands of different species.
My silica level is in range (0 - 200) according to my Triton results of 122. I could strip it with some GFO perhaps as I have a little PO4 to spare.
So, @Tom Bishop is about to dose silicates. If that makes these accelerate, I might take a swing at reducing silicates.
How else does one strip silicates? My RODI is 0 TDS.