Swapping my HOTB Filter

[Malum Argenteum]

Give it a try. I did in the 90s. Including the original HOB in the 70s and undergravel filters in the 80s and other lost cause in our hobby that according to literature is useless.

Yes, me too, and also bioball wet/dry filters, which have their place. Airstone co- and countercurrent skimmers, too. I recall the biowheel fad. I did not say a canister or any other filter was useless. All have down sides, which I am trying to point out rather than denying that those downsides exist.

Reefers use reactors and yet fail to grasp the benefits of a canister. Think about that for a minute.

Yes, I have thought about that; they're two different pieces of equipment with different purposes and advantages. Reactors are stand alone chemical filtration units that can be placed after mechanical filtration in the water flow path, and so can be installed so to partially prevent detritus buildup. Reactors are not used for part of the basic circulation needs of a tank in the way that canisters (or HOB or sump returns) are. And so on.

Reactors also have simplified maintenance procedures in a sense, since they can be serviced only when they specifically need servicing, but not otherwise; one can leave their GFO reactor online when dosing certain medications, for example, but when the filter is an all-in-one like a canister, the canister would need to be opened and activated carbon removed.

 

[GARRIGA]

Yes, me too, and also bioball wet/dry filters, which have their place. Airstone co- and countercurrent skimmers, too. I recall the biowheel fad. I did not say a canister or any other filter was useless. All have down sides, which I am trying to point out rather than denying that those downsides exist.



Yes, I have thought about that; they're two different pieces of equipment with different purposes and advantages. Reactors are stand alone chemical filtration units that can be placed after mechanical filtration in the water flow path, and so can be installed so to partially prevent detritus buildup. Reactors are not used for part of the basic circulation needs of a tank in the way that canisters (or HOB or sump returns) are. And so on.

Reactors also have simplified maintenance procedures in a sense, since they can be serviced only when they specifically need servicing, but not otherwise; one can leave their GFO reactor online when dosing certain medications, for example, but when the filter is an all-in-one like a canister, the canister would need to be opened and activated carbon removed.

Technically speaking. Reactor = canister. Can do same functions on either and both easily maintained yet one has the capacity to perform several tasks.

Turn off influent. Wait a moment to vacate some water then turn off effluent before turning power to pumps off and both can be removed and serviced as frequently as needed assuming one uses quick disconnects yet canisters afford the ability to be serviced less often. Depending on flow pattern. If bottom up then one could just open the top and exchange floss and media without ever removing the canister.

Boggles my mind that with today's use of macro and carbon that many still use socks attempting to remove decomposition vs letting it naturally happen and letting the system solve it. Last I want is being a slave to my pleasure although some find that therapeutic yet that will never be me and this is an alternative to constantly battling decomposition as if removing it as quickly as produced any longer beneficial.

Let's not forget today the battle is with having enough nutrients once we discovered bottoming out not what we thought it would be and for me that was the holly grail since mid 70s. Gunk is no longer junk nor has it ever been naturally. Why fight it. Just process it naturally. My canister in the 90s went without service until it clogged and that only required routinely opening the top and replacing carbon and floss but the media went untouched. Didn't mind the brown muck as even then I knew it wasn't hurting anything.

Just pointing out the reality that although that HOB needs to be often serviced and service although easy is still effort that canister can go long periods without our involvement and if one wants to prolong that then add a smaller canister or reactor filled with floss and routinely clean that although for me that's probably more complicated then worth my effort to construct and later maintain.

Final point which can't be stressed enough. Canister or reactor will be more efficient at processing the sediment or media used then a HOB due to reduced or eliminated bypass. Thereby could be run at slower rates to ensure longer contact and better polish the water flowing. I'd just get the biggest that won't exceed flow needs because I've never found there's such a thing as over filtration. That FX2 has over 2 gallons of room for mechanical, biological and chemical all in one container.

Wait. There's more. OP is fish only and doesn't appear to have the rock support to provide proper biological. More reason to potentially utilize something handling more capacity. Plus sea horses can be messy. Although glass and heaters and fish themselves do provide structure for biological there's very likely not enough and I'm still going to want an external option. At a minimum it provides a buffer for more bacteria should an issue occur and might be the reason I got away with over dosing carbon without a skimmer. Although my media was a modified under gravel plate containing 25% media to tank volume.

 

[dmsc2fs]

Canister flow can be adjusted but you should consider something smaller as most only can be cut in half. Don't fixate on empty canister flow rates advertised by manufacturers. See if there's a filtration rate when full of sponges and media. Same with HOB.

Two little fishes sells ball valves in 1/2" 3/4" and other similar sizes. One of these can be places in the canister return to get more control on the return flow.

Ball Valve

Micro fittings for regulating air flow through standard airline tubing for devices such as air-stones, filters, protein skimmers, ornaments, etc. Also for low-pressure liquid feed lines for metering pumps, fish display holding cubicles, fertilizing systems, calcium reactors, and drip irrigation...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[dmsc2fs]

Technically speaking. Reactor = canister. Can do same functions on either and both easily maintained yet one has the capacity to perform several tasks.

Turn off influent. Wait a moment to vacate some water then turn off effluent before turning power to pumps off and both can be removed and serviced as frequently as needed assuming one uses quick disconnects yet canisters afford the ability to be serviced less often. Depending on flow pattern. If bottom up then one could just open the top and exchange floss and media without ever removing the canister.

Oase Biomasters have an filter sponges that can be removed and replaced without cracking the canister open. They are quite nice. You can even pick one up with a heater in it and that takes the heater out of hanging in the tank. Assuming, of course, that the canister or HOB is in use because the tank is not drilled.

BioMaster Family

The OASE brand has always been “passionate about water” with a reputation for innovation and quality. Purchase your new water gardening, indoor aquatics, or biOrb product today!

us.oase.com

 

[GARRIGA]

Two little fishes sells ball valves in 1/2" 3/4" and other similar sizes. One of these can be places in the canister return to get more control on the return flow.

Ball Valve

Micro fittings for regulating air flow through standard airline tubing for devices such as air-stones, filters, protein skimmers, ornaments, etc. Also for low-pressure liquid feed lines for metering pumps, fish display holding cubicles, fertilizing systems, calcium reactors, and drip irrigation...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

From speaking to Fluval, was told not to restrict flow beyond half which can be done with their existing valves. Weren't clear on exactly why but might be an issue with their pumps. Which is why I'm considering turning of their pump and using a DC option within their pressure tolerance as last I want is one to leak from my nonsense.

Have a 1/2' TLF ball valve. Used with my water changing hose which rarely gets used

 

[GARRIGA]

Oase Biomasters have an filter sponges that can be removed and replaced without cracking the canister open. They are quite nice. You can even pick one up with a heater in it and that takes the heater out of hanging in the tank. Assuming, of course, that the canister or HOB is in use because the tank is not drilled.

BioMaster Family

The OASE brand has always been “passionate about water” with a reputation for innovation and quality. Purchase your new water gardening, indoor aquatics, or biOrb product today!

us.oase.com

I've considered those but decided FX best due to media basket setup and ability to choose the heater wanted such as going titanium or old trusted Eheim.

I'm done using HOB. Never again. Not even diy macro or algae scrubber.

Have consider running canisters with drill tanks since reef ready was a thing. Main will be AIO drilled and fed to several canisters. That tank will be 200 minimum and hoping 400 if I can resolve my limited wattage where it is going. Short answer. Don't consider canisters only for non drilled. An option those with reef ready not going with sumps might want to consider. I utterly hate seeing anything not natural in my display. Major pet peeve

 

[AmberOwl145]

Canister flow can be adjusted but you should consider something smaller as most only can be cut in half. Don't fixate on empty canister flow rates advertised by manufacturers. See if there's a filtration rate when full of sponges and media. Same with HOB.

Best filter for sea horses and other flow restricted tanks being an undergravel filter as those won't affect the inhabitants including their food.

Here’s an example using the FX2, 450 max but actual usage being around 343 and cut in half you get around 170 which based on tank volume might work but I’d still consider something smaller.

Thanks.. Do you think the HOTB one I mentioned above (since I already bought it) is ok?

 

[GARRIGA]

Thanks.. Do you think the HOTB one I mentioned above (since I already bought it) is ok?

I recall you have the Aqua Clear and that's a trusted HOB but I have no experience with it. I own the latest Penguin and Tidal 75. Went with those because of frequent power outages and ability to self prime due to motor in display but yours been in circulation a long time and used by many. Had it been self priming then I'd have gone with it as it has a better media chamber.

Might as well try it unless returning still an option. I'm just no longer a fan of HOB and why I can't recommend them. Fact is I stopped being in the 70s because then got tired of changing cartridges although yours allows for use of any media. That's a big plus and perhaps it doesn't overflow when clogged. That would have me using one again were it self priming or risk of power outages gone but only on a small tank and only for often replaced items such as chemical and mechanical filtration. I wrap GAC in floss and toss the entire thing out, for example.

Something I didn't consider. Not all have the space for sumps or canisters and if that's the case then I'd consider that Aqua Clear with a UPS although just for mechanical and chemical. Something I'm now considering for my 15 desktop if I ever get around to setting it up.

Reason I'm concerned with power outages being if it sits for extended periods without flow then risk of hydrogen sulfide forming then dumping into display once primed again. Perhaps that's a good thing forcing one to toss contents before restart. My Tidal was hooked up to a UPS just in case yet cleaned when outages lasted more than an hour as a security measure. Assuming I was home.

Every setup is different and why I don't think one method fits all. End of day each has to gather the information, decipher it and decide. Best for me may not be best for all.

 

[Naekuh]

Not to offend anyone running canisters here..

But i am on the camp with many others who says NO to canisters, unless you intend to run live rock, no sponge.

The sponge in these guys, unless you do like bi weekly maintance on, will be nitrate/phosphate factories.
That means without a Chaeto reactor running full speed, or a ULN setup, your going to have a fight with hair algae on a level where your going to think your stuck in star wars during the the last scene in the return of the jedi, only your the empire and the algae is the rebel forces.

 

[GARRIGA]

Everything is a nitrate factory including live rock. Heard that argument in the 90s to why one should go away from wet dry and to Berlin. Today we can manage nitrates with carbon and phosphates with GFO or my preferred choice lanthanum chloride.

BTW, my 20 test was absent algae when my astraea were in force. Post wipe out from dino attack they suddenly exploded although my nitrates were zero and phosphates 1.4. Latter might be high for Sticks but not a reason for concern otherwise. These were my results post nuking those dino therefore also solved the fact bottoming out one doesn't necessarily result in more dino. End of day all about some balance I can't for the life of me figure out.