sureI am going to draw up a schematic. Would you mind having a look at it?
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sureI am going to draw up a schematic. Would you mind having a look at it?
Hello, If I could offer a suggestion to the OP. I knew nothing about any of this when I first started. There are so many things that you need to have a full understanding of before you set one up from scratch. Check valves are not a failsafe. In most cases, over time they may not work as intended. Most of the cheap ones won't work at all. I would study, watch lots of video, see many setups and ask lots of questions. Plumbing alone is a nightmare until you have a grasp on what you need to know. Knowing when the outside diameter or the inside diameter makes a difference. That is just for being able to purchase the supplies and get them working together. What size return you will need. What drain diameter will be needed for that return size. I'm just scratching the surface.
yes, your design works... though in reality, it tends to be a bit more work![]()
here's what my last tank ended up looking like... the only thing i might do differently next time is use 45 vs 90 degree elbows for quieter flow.
I was going to get a ball valve but will make the switch in my notes. Is there a standard ID for both drain and return?use a gate valve on the regular line, not a ball valve. the emergency doesnt matter. also, its a good idea to use lots of unions in case you ever need to replace parts.
no. I have no check valves in this build, those are unions (they benefit in 2 ways... you can unscrew and remove pieces (great when you need to change things out, and 2) they can be twisted and resealed... helps when aligning glued pipe).45 instead of 90 is already in my notes. Watched a video that made a good argument to use two 45s instead of a 90 elbow.
Thank you for the photos. Are the big black round bits check valves?
ID?I was going to get a ball valve but will make the switch in my notes. Is there a standard ID for both drain and return?