Stressor Event

silenthuntertm

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Last night, my house became infested with light bugs and they were attracted to the reef lights. I was too late to notice them and they got it my tank. The top was filled with dead floating bugs so I had to remove them immediately. So I managed to remove most of the floating dead bugs then I saw all my fishes were terrified. Green chromis looks like its twitching, blue tang looks very pale, etc. I was going to do a water change immediately but after I saw all the fish were like that, I just let them be for the night and closed the lights. Now its the next morning and I still see them still terrified. What should I do? Should I do a water change now or should I wait a few more hours or days for them to calm down? I don’t know what to do. I’m afraid this stressor event will make me lose all my fish.
 

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Last night, my house became infested with light bugs and they were attracted to the reef lights. I was too late to notice them and they got it my tank. The top was filled with dead floating bugs so I had to remove them immediately. So I managed to remove most of the floating dead bugs then I saw all my fishes were terrified. Green chromis looks like its twitching, blue tang looks very pale, etc. I was going to do a water change immediately but after I saw all the fish were like that, I just let them be for the night and closed the lights. Now its the next morning and I still see them still terrified. What should I do? Should I do a water change now or should I wait a few more hours or days for them to calm down? I don’t know what to do. I’m afraid this stressor event will make me lose all my fish.
what are your water parameters? If they’re in normal levels definitely don’t disturb the fish. I would only consider a water change if parameters are in dangerous levels.

Second to that, during the time the lights are off, make sure there’s no outside light coming into the tank. Also try and prevent a lot of movement from happening near the tank

In terms of problems from the bugs, out of my knowledge range.
 
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silenthuntertm

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what are your water parameters? If they’re in normal levels definitely don’t disturb the fish. I would only consider a water change if parameters are in dangerous levels.

Second to that, during the time the lights are off, make sure there’s no outside light coming into the tank. Also try and prevent a lot of movement from happening near the tank

In terms of problems from the bugs, out of my knowledge range.
I haven’t had the time to check the water params yet as I dont want to disturb the fish. I just did a water change last week. Should I check for ammonia and nitrate first?
 
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silenthuntertm

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Update: I just checked on them with the lights on. I saw white spots on my dottyback, foxface and blue tang. Green chromis was scratching on the rocks. Clowns look fine. Did I just trigger an ich outbreak?
 

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I haven’t had the time to check the water params yet as I dont want to disturb the fish. I just did a water change last week. Should I check for ammonia and nitrate first?
If you haven’t had recent problems for parameters and you’ve just been doing water changes as a preventative, you should be okay. But it never hurts to test the water levels and IMO I don’t think that small bit of time will stress the fish. If you are concerned about stressing the fish further, test for ammonia and nitrite as those would be more toxic.
 

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Update: I just checked on them with the lights on. I saw white spots on my dottyback, foxface and blue tang. Green chromis was scratching on the rocks. Clowns look fine. Did I just trigger an ich outbreak?
Definitely a possibility or velvet as they look similar, disease is not my specialty but I know the basics. if you provide pictures and or a YouTube video link to your fish (this would be more preferred) it would be a lot easier to diagnose and then you can go from there.
 

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Please post photos and video of fish under white light

Either way it sounds like ich or velvet and treatment is the same.

Probably coincidental with the bugs
 

vetteguy53081

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Last night, my house became infested with light bugs and they were attracted to the reef lights. I was too late to notice them and they got it my tank. The top was filled with dead floating bugs so I had to remove them immediately. So I managed to remove most of the floating dead bugs then I saw all my fishes were terrified. Green chromis looks like its twitching, blue tang looks very pale, etc. I was going to do a water change immediately but after I saw all the fish were like that, I just let them be for the night and closed the lights. Now its the next morning and I still see them still terrified. What should I do? Should I do a water change now or should I wait a few more hours or days for them to calm down? I don’t know what to do. I’m afraid this stressor event will make me lose all my fish.
Add carbon although should be non- toxic and cover tank with Saran Wrap to keep them out
Since they are attracted to the lighting- they’ll fall into a bug light quickly
 
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silenthuntertm

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Here is what I can get:
IMG_1786.jpeg
IMG_1785.jpeg
IMG_1782.jpeg
 
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silenthuntertm

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If you haven’t had recent problems for parameters and you’ve just been doing water changes as a preventative, you should be okay. But it never hurts to test the water levels and IMO I don’t think that small bit of time will stress the fish. If you are concerned about stressing the fish further, test for ammonia and nitrite as those would be more toxic.
I dont have any test kit for nitrite but I tested ammonia and its 0
 

jamesb07

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Here is what I can get:
IMG_1786.jpeg
IMG_1785.jpeg
IMG_1782.jpeg
Definitely
Here is what I can get:
IMG_1786.jpeg
IMG_1785.jpeg
IMG_1782.jpeg
you definitely got it.
Set up hospital tank if possible. If that’s the way you go, let DT go fallow (no fish) for 76 days. Can leave inverts in. Do not treat inverts.
Hospital tank would be a very basic tank setup, no live rock no sand. Do a copper treatment. Do a half dose (will depend on what you use, bottle will have dosing protocol) wait 12 hours and do the other half. Double check copper levels with Hannah copper test kit. API is junk please don’t waste your money on it.
Let fish in therapeutic levels for 30 days. If levels drop below therapeutic level, restart 30 day counter.
This is just a basic example, but look up jays quarantine protocol it’ll explain tank setup and how to treat with copper. (Don’t know how to quote a previous post)

Again this is absolutely not my area of specialty, just my two cents. Have one of the two people mentioned earlier confirm this.
 
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silenthuntertm

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Definitely

you definitely got it.
Set up hospital tank if possible. If that’s the way you go, let DT go fallow (no fish) for 76 days. Can leave inverts in. Do not treat inverts.
Hospital tank would be a very basic tank setup, no live rock no sand. Do a copper treatment. Do a half dose (will depend on what you use, bottle will have dosing protocol) wait 12 hours and do the other half. Double check copper levels with Hannah copper test kit. API is junk please don’t waste your money on it.
Let fish in therapeutic levels for 30 days. If levels drop below therapeutic level, restart 30 day counter.
This is just a basic example, but look up jays quarantine protocol it’ll explain tank setup and how to treat with copper. (Don’t know how to quote a previous post)

Again this is absolutely not my area of specialty, just my two cents. Have one of the two people mentioned earlier confirm this.
I have a qt but I dont know if I can catch them without stressing them any further. Plus my qt is small and can only fit 3 fishes at best so I might need to get another. But sadly, I don't think I can net them. Any other options?

Add carbon although should be non- toxic and cover tank with Saran Wrap to keep them out
Since they are attracted to the lighting- they’ll fall into a bug light quickly
I’ll run carbon for good measure
 

jamesb07

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I have a qt but I dont know if I can catch them without stressing them any further. Plus my qt is small and can only fit 3 fishes at best so I might need to get another. But sadly, I don't think I can net them. Any other options?


I’ll run carbon for good measure
What size is the QT?
Also, you could treat in tank if there are no corals or inverts. But you have to remove all live rock and sand as it absorbs medication so you’d have to have another tank to put the live rock in. You can also do hyposalinity. i believe carbon also absorbs copper so no carbon during treatment. I have no knowledge on this method as I believe copper is more effective and I’d rather be safe than sorry. Again I could be wrong because I am uneducated on this method. Look up hyposalinity there is a good write up in this group for that treatment aswell.
I understand you’re worried about stressing the fish more, but if you can’t treat them in the DT sue to whatever reason, it is going to be necessary.
 
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silenthuntertm

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What size is the QT?
Also, you could treat in tank if there are no corals or inverts. But you have to remove all live rock and sand as it absorbs medication so you’d have to have another tank to put the live rock in. You can also do hyposalinity. i believe carbon also absorbs copper so no carbon during treatment. I have no knowledge on this method as I believe copper is more effective and I’d rather be safe than sorry. Again I could be wrong because I am uneducated on this method. Look up hyposalinity there is a good write up in this group for that treatment aswell.
I understand you’re worried about stressing the fish more, but if you can’t treat them in the DT sue to whatever reason, it is going to be necessary.
Can’t treat in DT as I am stocked with corals and inverts. QT is about 5 gallons only. I’ll have to get another QT once the shop opens up and do my best to catch them. Thanks for your guidance @jamesb07



@Jay Hemdal @vetteguy53081 any quick insight and advice is appreciated.

Information on my tank and livestock:
Tank age - 6 months
Ocellaris clowns x2 - Added 5 months ago
Royal Dottyback x1 - Added 4 months ago
Juvenile Yellow Foxface x1 - Added 3 months ago (QT with copper for 1 week)
Green Chromis x1 - Added 3 months ago (QT with copper for 1 week)
Juvenile Blue Tang x1 - Added 1 month ago (QT with copper for 1 week)

There was never signs of ich or velvet in any of my fish during QT nor did they show any signs in the DT. Just today it appears after this stressor event and I am worried. Last change to the tank is the addition of a juvenile blue tang and that was a month ago. I’ve heard that ich might be present in every tank and I’m starting to believe that because of this.
 

vetteguy53081

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Here is what I can get:
IMG_1786.jpeg
IMG_1785.jpeg
IMG_1782.jpeg
Based on the pics, the hepatus and Foxface have mucus cones which may be related to skin irritation and may mixed in with ich. Gramma shows ich and leads to quarantine which you mentioned having to get. A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.
Treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored by a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off
 

Jay Hemdal

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Can’t treat in DT as I am stocked with corals and inverts. QT is about 5 gallons only. I’ll have to get another QT once the shop opens up and do my best to catch them. Thanks for your guidance @jamesb07



@Jay Hemdal @vetteguy53081 any quick insight and advice is appreciated.

Information on my tank and livestock:
Tank age - 6 months
Ocellaris clowns x2 - Added 5 months ago
Royal Dottyback x1 - Added 4 months ago
Juvenile Yellow Foxface x1 - Added 3 months ago (QT with copper for 1 week)
Green Chromis x1 - Added 3 months ago (QT with copper for 1 week)
Juvenile Blue Tang x1 - Added 1 month ago (QT with copper for 1 week)

There was never signs of ich or velvet in any of my fish during QT nor did they show any signs in the DT. Just today it appears after this stressor event and I am worried. Last change to the tank is the addition of a juvenile blue tang and that was a month ago. I’ve heard that ich might be present in every tank and I’m starting to believe that because of this.
Welcome to Reef2Reef.

I’d say your fish have a moderately advanced case of ich. Treatment with copper or hyposalinity in a tank with no invertebrates would be the best course of action.

You can try “ich management”, but these fish may not respond because the parasite has reached a fairly high level of infection.

 
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silenthuntertm

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Thank you all for your guidance and advice @jamesb07 @Tamberav @vetteguy53081 @Jay Hemdal

Update on my situation: So I decided to house all of the fishes in a HT, treat them, and leave the tank fallow. It looks like all of them are now showing symptoms of ich. I am devastated by this but gotta move on and do what’s best. My blue tang seems to be doing the worse as of now. Currently only the blue tang and the royal dotty is in the HT as I did not manage to catch the others in the DT but I will try again tomorrow night. Also, I ordered a fine mesh net cover to keep off those pesky light bugs. In the meantime, I keep a close eye on the tank at night and schedule the lights to turn off earlier (Those light bugs seem to come out at night).

Question:
1) How long should I quarantine the fish and leave my tank fallow. Would 1 month be sufficient to kill off the ich?
2) Do I need to dose anything to my DT while it’s fallow to kill off the free swimming ich?
3) Will a fine mesh net cover interfere with oxygen, nitrogen cycle etc.?
 

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  1. HT fish - Treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days.
  2. DT - The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off.
  3. There is nothing to dose in the DT. Just keep it fallow. (see #2)
  4. fine mesh - If it is breathable it should not interfere.
Good luck. :)
 
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silenthuntertm

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  1. HT fish - Treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25-2.5 For a FULL 30 days.
  2. DT - The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off.
  3. There is nothing to dose in the DT. Just keep it fallow. (see #2)
  4. fine mesh - If it is breathable it should not interfere.
Good luck. :)
Thanks! Sucks to see the tank without the fish. But at this point, I just hope I’ll be able to save the fishes.
 

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