I will never understand the full capability of my controller(s). It’s super useful but I know I’m probably only using a fraction of its true capabilities. And the crusty old man in me secretly does want to learn it lol.
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Yeah I hear ya with the health issue. But at least there have been SO many advances on terms of equipment meant for this purpose (at least since i got into it in 91) . It's indirect, though, concerning your point. Your right. I've not seen much in that area with articles. Treating illness has most of the press. And , also, many do not keep a QT tank. With my rebuild, it'll be the first tank up and cycled. It's absolutely required IMO.I know what you mean, but I think that so much is written about how to cure fish and practically nothing on how to keep fish healthy in the first place.
If we keep on this same track as we have been since the hobby started in 1971, we will always have disease problems because fish will always come in with different diseases which IMO are simple to avoid. Just my opinion of course and I am opinionated.
I’ve done this before too! That’s probably because the chemistry part of reefing just goes way over my head, haha.Any technical article that @Randy Holmes-Farley writes. I read the comments to figure out a lot of them. It’s not the way he writes, it’s the way that I comprehend!
That's for sure. I only see one seagull?He doesn't always get it 100% perfect.
The relationship between alkalinity, PH, and calcium and how one affects the other. A simplified explanation would be niceWhat's something about reefing that you just don't understand or don't know very well?
It could be how a piece of equipment works, certain aspects of water chemistry, how corals grow, aquarium lighting...ANYTHING!
Don't be shy!
I add an ammonia alert badge and change the water as required. If using medication, I redose the appropriate amount. I have a few pieces of rock in my qt tank to help it cycle. But it does get shut off when not in use.Can someone please explain to me how we're able to keep fish in a quarantine tank without it being cycled? I don't understand how ammonia poisoning doesn't become an immediate concern as a fish releases ammonia from its gills. And feeding--if you have a difficult to get to eat fish and you have to try several different types of food to get a feeding response, you're adding a lot of pollutants to the water along the way. I know Elliott from Marine Collectors suggests doing a 100% water change in the quarantine tank every three days. Does it really typically take that long for ammonia to start showing up? This has been my source of anxiety with regards to quarantining fish, feeling uneasy about potential ammonia poisoning since the tank isn't cycled. I hope someone can better explain this process, and how long it is before ammonia tends to appear in this setting.
This ^^^. I’ve had only one minor issue with black ich that was eradicated by a single whole tank treatment and no fish losses in almost 9 years in the hobby keeping tangs, clownfish, anthias, wrasse, dragonets, and others. And I don’t follow any quarantine protocol. My LFS has excellent quarantine protocols and I trust the fish are healthy when I buy them.I don't understand why so many people have so many problems with fish disease.
The relationship between alkalinity, PH, and calcium and how one affects the other. A simplified explanation would be nice
Thank you for the links. I will definitely read them.Calcium is not directly impacted by nor does it directly impact alkalinity and pH
The other two are intertwined in several ways that, if simplified, may be misleading, but I’m happy to explain these in more detail in a different thread.
Chemistry And The Aquarium: The Relationship Between Alkalinity And pH ? Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog