I've been using reef roids mostly. Just started alternating BRS reef chili about a month ago.Which. Coral feed do you use for your system I’ll be getting torches myself
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I've been using reef roids mostly. Just started alternating BRS reef chili about a month ago.Which. Coral feed do you use for your system I’ll be getting torches myself
Hmm I’ll give it a tryI've been using reef roids mostly. Just started alternating BRS reef chili about a month ago.
Anything below 400nm is UV. 390nm will put out very little visible light. They are UVA (315-400nm).I think you miss understand what I mean . The 390s are more violet blue then deep blue. But they are not in the uv spectrum or put off weak uv. Not true uva,uvb,or uvc correct?
That would be violet/near uv spectrum?
Hey bud, I think your arguing with yourself at this point. Near uv means the same think as close to uv. I believe in one of your previous post on other threads you showed minimal uv spectrum being produced by the 395-400nm diodes. In that post you said the near uv was not really uv. That post had to do with leds vs mh lights, if that helps refresh your memory. In it you posted graphs with uva uvb and uvc . Corals absorbsion ect.. again my point was his photos look more on the purple ( violet) side then 470nm.Anything below 400nm is UV. 390nm will put out very little visible light. They are UVA (315-400nm).
"Near UV" is being misused. I think you mean close to UV. That's simply violet.
Do you have these lights? I’m just trying to figure out why you would say this? They grow Corals like mad, also my Blue Plating sponge is growing, including the one that’s getting moved all around the Aquarium, by a Tuxedo Urchin. They ended up burning my Sun Corals. Also 21 have the Flood Lights, which are 100% Rebuildable. BTW, I recently noticed the Cooling Fins on my ReefBar Pros were dirty with dust and salt. No problem, I just took them over to the Laundry Sink, hosed them off. Wiped down with a towel, and immediately put them back in service. What other fixtures could you do that too?They are really weak though.
Are you talking about the 21 USA flood lights? I used a couple on my fuge on my last build they would cook cheato. 1 blue 1 red but grew hair algae like mad.Do you have these lights? I’m just trying to figure out why you would say this? They grow Corals like mad, also my Blue Plating sponge is growing, including the one that’s getting moved all around the Aquarium, by a Tuxedo Urchin. They ended up burning my Sun Corals. Also 21 have the Flood Lights, which are 100% Rebuildable. BTW, I recently noticed the Cooling Fins on my ReefBar Pros were dirty with dust and salt. No problem, I just took them over to the Laundry Sink, hosed them off. Wiped down with a towel, and immediately put them back in service. What other fixtures could you do that too?
Blue sponge needs 250ish part to grow really well but can be lower.Do you have these lights? I’m just trying to figure out why you would say this? They grow Corals like mad, also my Blue Plating sponge is growing, including the one that’s getting moved all around the Aquarium, by a Tuxedo Urchin. They ended up burning my Sun Corals. Also 21 have the Flood Lights, which are 100% Rebuildable. BTW, I recently noticed the Cooling Fins on my ReefBar Pros were dirty with dust and salt. No problem, I just took them over to the Laundry Sink, hosed them off. Wiped down with a towel, and immediately put them back in service. What other fixtures could you do that too?
When the Utility zapped my flood, I tried the RGB Cob Chip, got the same results. Went back to the 10,000K + Chip, Cheato is coming back slowly. BTW, I didn’t know 21 sold the Chips and Driver, used Chanzons, from Amazon.Are you talking about the 21 USA flood lights? I used a couple on my fuge on my last build they would cook cheato. 1 blue 1 red but grew hair algae like mad.
That sounds a lot like a misinterpretation of something I've said. I suspect that statement is related to lights like the G6 Radion and the Sky producing UV. At 395nm, the G6 technically is throwing UV downrange, as its UV diode peak will be sub-400nm. The Sky, at 405nm, will produce some (very little) UV, but the bulk of the light measured from 405 will be visible (not UV).Hey bud, I think your arguing with yourself at this point. Near uv means the same think as close to uv. I believe in one of your previous post on other threads you showed minimal uv spectrum being produced by the 395-400nm diodes. In that post you said the near uv was not really uv. That post had to do with leds vs mh lights, if that helps refresh your memory. In it you posted graphs with uva uvb and uvc . Corals absorbsion ect.. again my point was his photos look more on the purple ( violet) side then 470nm.
See why I said near uv aka close to uv.
Sorry if that statement caused you confusion, but appreciate your input nevertheless.
I seem to not be getting my point across.That sounds a lot like a misinterpretation of something I've said. I suspect that statement is related to lights like the G6 Radion and the Sky producing UV. At 395nm, the G6 technically is throwing UV downrange, as its UV diode peak will be sub-400nm. The Sky, at 405nm, will produce some (very little) UV, but the bulk of the light measured from 405 will be visible (not UV).
Your interpretation of Near UV is inaccurate, and it's something I see shared by some who market reef-related lights. Near UV is a type of ultraviolet (UV) radiation closest to the visible light spectrum. It encompasses wavelengths between 200 and 400 nanometers. There are three categories of UV...Near UV (UVA), Middle UV (UVB), and Far UV (UVC). Simply put, Near UV (UVA) is not violet that's close to UV. Again, that's just violet.
I've not shared graphs showing UVB and UVC, but I have shared graphs that indicate UVA when the lights actually produce UVA.
What percent do you use for each spectrum? My G6 is arriving today but I’m not finding much info to go off.I use the G6 over a 24" L x 16" H 26g. I have not owned a higher end light to compare it to, nor a large system, but I'm happy with it. The color looks good (although it looks more Cyan to me), and the easy SPS frags I have had in the tank over the last couple months are doing fine.
I have measured par with a VBR Aqua meter and my lowest SPS is getting 210 par and I have a lot of room to crank up the white channel. I just finished dealing with dinos so disregard the dirty tank. I'm still a noob.
I'm simply correcting the misinformation that is "near uv."I seem to not be getting my point across.
My original comment was on the color in the photos. Take the g5-g6 radion. Put all channels to zero. Turn the deep blue up to 10%. Turn the near uv ( violet purple ) to 100% . The color in the tank will be a deep purple blue. Not 470 windex. That is where my comment stopped.
I was not commenting on the lights ability to produce any form of uv or inability to do so. I'm now going to search back into the post to review the mh debate and see if I completely misunderstood your post there like you implied or not.
I've been using this light since April of this year. I had the same thoughts about it, but I like it overall. I could never get the Photone or PPFD app to work well with my phone or lights though. I do have a VBR Aqua par meter, however.Using Iphone with Photone App, paper diffuser, and in waterproof bag and white blue light choice in app. Light 5" above water, phone in centerish of tank under light, and measured below water at 8" 280 and 10" 250 PAR. 8" is the top of my rock. Unable to get phone down to bottom without moving rocks around. This is using setting above A 40, B55, C55, D55, E10, & F10. Bare in mind I only have softies in here right now. This is the only light on aquarium.