Size and Shape of Your Aquarium: Things to Consider

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Seawitch submitted a new Article:

Size and Shape of Your Aquarium: Things to Consider

Inspiration for beginners: A "before" photo of a new 70G.
r2rbeforemal1124-jpeg.933829

Photo courtesy of @Mal1124, ©2018, All Rights Reserved.

Inspiration for beginners: An "after" photo of the same 70G, 21 months later.

r2raftermal1124-jpeg.933830

Photo courtesy of @Mal1124, ©2018, All Rights Reserved.

When most beginners decide to set up an aquarium, they choose the aquarium first and then figure out what to put inside it. With saltwater, it’s much better to decide first what you hope to have someday in your tank, and then choose the aquarium best suited for the livestock.

In this article, I’m not going to address the glass versus acrylic debate or even where to place your aquarium because those are large topics in and of themselves.

Let's assume for a minute that you haven't purchased your tank yet. Or you're buying your second tank or third. Then this article is for you. The size and shape of your aquarium have plenty of subtle and not-so-subtle effects on both the livestock and the aquarist. So, let’s take a look at some aquarium sizes and shapes and talk about the implications.

A 54-gallon Red Sea Reefer 25o
r2rchilli57-jpg.933852

Photo courtesy of @Chilli ©2018, All Rights Reserved.

Size in general:

You’ve surely heard this before, but it bears repeating: larger saltwater aquariums are more stable than smaller saltwater aquariums, all things being equal (which they rarely are.) For this reason, larger aquariums tend to be easier for beginners to keep the water quality stable than smaller aquariums. And with saltwater aquariums, excellent water quality that stays within a narrow range of parameters is what you’re aiming for.

Of course, size is relative. So, a 10-gallon aquarium will be more stable than a one-gallon, but a 50-gallon will be more stable than a 10-gallon.

Lots of people start with a pretty small aquarium and do fine. It certainly can be done. I just want to emphasize that you have a bit more margin for error with a bigger tank.

A 12-gallon "nano" aquarium.
r2r12g-fts-jpg.933886

Photo courtesy of @Nano sapiens ©2018, All Rights Reserved.

Aquarium size and the aquarist:

As you go up in size, the aquarium is more work, and it’s also more expensive. For example, if you want to change some water in a 20-gallon aquarium, 10 percent of 20 gallons is two gallons. For the sake of discussion, let’s say each gallon of seawater weighs about 8.5 pounds. It’s not that hard to carry two gallons up or down stairs. Not all of us will have the luxury of piping new saltwater directly into the aquarium or old saltwater out to a drain. If you have a very high-tech tank, maybe you can automate this, but for the rest of us mortals, we carry the water.

If you have a 100-gallon aquarium, and you want to change 10 percent of the water, now you have 10 X 8.5 pounds or 85 pounds of water. That’s 85 pounds out and 85 pounds in. I don’t know about you, but I can’t lift that in one go. So, now you have at least two trips up and/or down the stairs or outside or wherever.

I’m not trying to scare anyone away, and plenty of aquarists do this. But for beginners, it’s definitely something to think about. And there are some aquarists who change very little water, and some who change almost no water, especially with mature tanks.

You have to consider the space, too. Do you have room for a big tank? If you’re going to put it on your desk in your office, then obviously you can’t put a massive tank on there. Can your floor support the weight?

The expense is bigger, too, but it’s hard to quantify because there are so many variables. A bigger tank will (probably) need a bigger protein skimmer. More volume of water changes means more salt. The bigger tank needs more powerheads for flow, more heaters and you’ll probably want more livestock, too. You get the idea.

Bigger tanks also tend to have a sump. Some people have sumps with small tanks. Have you thought about where to put your sump? Under the tank? In another room?

A 240-gallon in-wall tank.
r2r240joebrown-jpeg.933929

Photo courtesy of @Joe Brown ©2018, All Rights Reserved.

The livestock:

If you have a fishless system, and yes, some people do, then I would not be overly preoccupied about the square footage available for snails--they don't move fast. But, fish, on the other hand, can get stressed, and they can get depressed, too. Some readers will go berserk when they read this, but I’m not kidding. This is documented in serious peer-reviewed research. (I did find one study that says, no, fish don’t feel pain, but you could argue that how we measure this may be flawed. The study is cited below with the others.)

In fish, just like in mammals and humans, stress and depression affect health, longevity, and behavior. And one of the things the aquarist can do for the overall health of their fish is give them as much room as possible--within reason--to swim around and not to overstock the tank. Bottom line? The more room you can give your fish, the better.

Furthermore, corals can engage is chemical warfare, anemones can sting other anemones or corals or fish. The list is endless. The more room you can give your livestock, the better. Or else, just don’t overcrowd your tank.

A 40G Breeder used as a room divider.
r2rcodym80840-jpeg.933860

Photo courtesy of @Codym808. ©2018, All Rights Reserved.

Shape in general:

Tanks come in all shapes and sizes. Tall, short, bowfront, wide, square, round and if you want to spend an unlimited amount of money, you can have custom-built all kinds of weird shapes.

Aside from your fish having enough room to swim around in width or length, there are other things to consider.

Height

Some people like the look of a high tank. I've personally seen some spectacular ones in hotels and restaurants.

Most fish, however, are more inclined to swim side to side than up and down. There is livestock that specifically requires a tall tank: some cephalopod molluscs like the nautilus and some jellyfish come to mind. However, by and large, the tall tanks are for the aquarist’s aesthetic eye and not necessarily for the livestock within.

With a tall tank, you have a few things to consider. First, the surface area per unit volume is smaller than a rectangular or square tank of average height (18’-24”). And the surface is where you get a lot of your gas exchange or how you help oxygenate your tank. Now an appropriately sized protein skimmer can make a big difference with oxygenation, and there are other things you can do to up your oxygen, but surface area is something to think about.

A tall tank is also harder to aquascape. Is your live rock going to be like the Empire State Building? Good luck with that. And the very tall tank is harder to equip and circulate the water.

But maintenance is a big thing here. My arm is 21” from my shoulder to my wrist. If I had a 30”+ tall tank, I’d have to get on a ladder to stick my arm in it. And unless I want to soak my head and wear a snorkel, I’ll never reach the bottom. And those long-arm gloves from the veterinarian only reach the shoulder.

Yes, there are instruments you can buy that are 12”-24” long, forceps and scissors, and other, but my point is, it’s more difficult. More complex. It’s something to consider.

Also, keep in mind that the water pressure at the bottom of the tank is dependent on depth. That means a tall tank has lot more pressure against the walls and corners at the bottom than a less tall tank. Just sayin’. That's why hydroelectric dams are wider at the bottom.

Hydroelectric Dam
dam-929406_1920-jpg.933863

Photo is a royalty-free image from Pixabay.

Shorter tanks have the opposite problem. You can fit your arm in there, but were you planning on a deep sand bed for a substrate? A DSB is a minimum of 4” and probably closer to 5”-6”. If your tank is only 18” tall, then now it’s only 12” tall. You’re not going to get Mount Vesuvius in there if that was your plan. Think bungalow instead of the Tower of London for your aquascape.

All-In-One (AIO) tanks

AIO tanks have a lot of the “business” built into the tank: some filtration, maybe an overflow, etc. Consider where the tank will go before getting a tank like this because if you want your tank as a room divider with full view on both sides, then the cords, and other hardware may be unsightly or in the way.

The advantages of AIO tanks are the same as the disadvantages. You don't have to think too hard because most of what you need is already in place. When you learn more, you may want different components that may not be easy to change. But they're often plug-and-play or close to it. And they come in all sizes.

Furnishing your house with aquariums.
r2rsaltyhog-jpg.933884

Photo courtesy of @saltyhog ©2018, All Rights Reserved.

Round tanks

Some people choose a round tank as an artistic thing. Because it’s unusual. In fact, round tanks are often used in research and breeding because baby fish fry can get stuck in the corners of, well, tanks with corners. And squid are typically kept in round tanks, but they don’t do well in captivity, so we’re not going to spend a lot of time on them here. Hint: I think Acro Alhas his clams in round tanks.

A 36-gallon bowfront aquarium as a focal point.
r2rbowfrontsstanley223-jpeg.933895

Photo courtesy of @sstanley223 ©2018, All Rights Reserved.

Bowfront tanks

Bowfronts are beautiful. Especially if you want the tank to be the focus of a room. But they are more expensive than flat glass or acrylic, they can be harder to clean, and there is often some distortion of the view depending on the angle you’re looking into the tank. This can make photographing the tank inhabitants a bit more difficult, if you’re into that.

I’m a great believer in live and let live. Get any kind of tank you want; just be aware of the issues that some tanks come with because of their size or shape.

A 120-gallon tank.
r2rdbl120-jpg.933885

Photo courtesy of @dbl ©2018, All Rights Reserved.

References:

https://www.reference.com/science/much-gallon-saltwater-weigh-4b5f0704795c2a6

http://divemagazine.co.uk/eco/7852-study-reveals-fish-get-depressed

https://www.animalsaustralia.org/features/fish-in-farms-are-depressed.php

https://www.psychologytoday.com/ca/...nt-and-emotional-beings-and-clearly-feel-pain

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/fish-feel-pain-180967764/

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4356734/

https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/16e8/e2a2640c187cc955b6e8aac2dc4764facf54.pdf

Morphologic Effects of the Stress Response in Fish

https://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/threads/physics-of-the-fish-tank.89278/

https://www.theaquariumwiki.com/wiki/Common_tank_sizes

https://www.fishfarmsupply.ca/collections/tanks-research-enviro

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/are.13121

https://www.researchgate.net/public...r_answers_improving_welfare_for_aquarium_fish

http://www.ices.dk/sites/pub/CM Doccuments/1987/F/1987_F4.pdf

https://www.maryvillecollege.edu/me...s/dcrain/Undergraduate_Research/Dolan2015.pdf

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Special thanks:


Special thanks is due today to a lot of individuals who started posting photos of their tanks in a hurry when I asked for it on the forum. I couldn't use every photo posted for this article, but I will use them in the future. Thank you @Efranco@kschweer @Sailingeric @Chilli @MSB123 @DSC reef @Butuz @KLS1993 @saltyhog @noahreefer @Be102@Lovemyreef2015 @Codym808 @nicodim55 @sstanley223 @cpage101 @MSB123 @Paleozoic_reefer @Joe Brown @Greg Gdowski @khushtram @vetteguy53081 @Mike220 @Nano man @dbl @Mal11224 @Kit_Kat@loudermilkjohn65 @UM Aquarium Club @Deiblerj @Roush427R and I hope I didn't forget anyone. Also, a special thank you to @PDR who is readily available to read article drafts and make suggestions.

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We encourage all our readers to join the Reef2Reef forum. It’s easy to register, free, and reefkeeping is much easier and more fun in a community of fellow aquarists. We pride ourselves on a warm and family-friendly forum where everyone is welcome. You will also find lots of contests and giveaways with our sponsors.

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Author Profile: Cynthia White

Cynthia received her BA in English from NYU. She has been a freelance writer and editor for over 20 years. Now she is a writer and editor on staff at R2R, where her forum nickname is Seawitch.

For 15 years, she kept a dozen freshwater tanks, bred cichlids--Cyphotilapia frontosa--and sold them to pet stores in Calgary. Finally, after years of study, she has come to saltwater side. She lives in British Columbia, Canada, with her husband and three special-needs dogs, a five-minute walk from the Georgia Strait, the Pacific Ocean between Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia, where the water temperature ranges from about eight degrees C (46F) in the winter to 15 degrees C (60F) in the summer. Bring your dry suit. And some hot coffee.
 

OllieNZ

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Well written, One thing that could be added and you kind of alluded to it in the height section is that as the height and pressure increase the thickness of the needs material to increase which can massively increase the cost of the tank. Same goes for rimless tanks vs braced tanks.
 

Greg Gdowski

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Nice article Cynthia. When I started up my last tank a year ago, lugging water up and down from my basement was at the top of my list for eliminating off my chore list. Knowing this tank was likely going to live with me into my 60s (ugh), repeatedly carrying up and down 5G of water (ie. 40+lbs) was not really an option. While I think the Balling method is difficult for the newcomer, it has changed and most likely extended my reefing life by eliminating the water changes. Not only is the water column in a large tank more stable, it is also easier to dose with 2 and 3 part solutions with less relevant error.
 
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Seawitch

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Thank you @miPapareef @Muttley000 and you're right @OllieNZ. I was reluctant to add more downsides to the tall tank because I felt I already had a long list--I didn't want to appear too biased. @Greg Gdowski yeah, that's right, too. I think a lot of beginners don't realize how heavy a gallon of saltwater is, and that's true about the dosing. Want to write something about the different kinds of dosing you can do?
 

OllieNZ

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@Seawitch , I mentioned it because there's times it can make a significant difference to the cost of a tank and may not make the extra few gallons gained worth it. It doesn't necessarily just apply to tall tanks, for my build the difference between 18" and 24" high meant going from 3/8" to 1/2" thick glass and would have nearly doubled the cost. It's not necessarily a negative, just a consideration.
 

Greg Gdowski

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Cynthia --- perhaps. Are you thinking something for the beginner?

re tall tanks.... often not talked about... is the relation of lighting intensity with depth. I can't vouch for all depths and fixtures. My tank is about 22" deep. With the AI Prime HDs (I have 5), I am hard pressed to get 90 Par at the bottom of the tank when the fixtures are only 8" from the surface. So depth impacts the types of light fixtures you might need -- which then impacts the types of corals you might place at the bottom.
 

Seawitch

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@Seawitch , I mentioned it because there's times it can make a significant difference to the cost of a tank and may not make the extra few gallons gained worth it. It doesn't necessarily just apply to tall tanks, for my build the difference between 18" and 24" high meant going from 3/8" to 1/2" thick glass and would have nearly doubled the cost. It's not necessarily a negative, just a consideration.

Yes, you're right. I'll look into that for an upcoming article just on glass. Thank you.
 

Seawitch

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Cynthia --- perhaps. Are you thinking something for the beginner?

re tall tanks.... often not talked about... is the relation of lighting intensity with depth. I can't vouch for all depths and fixtures. My tank is about 22" deep. With the AI Prime HDs (I have 5), I am hard pressed to get 90 Par at the bottom of the tank when the fixtures are only 8" from the surface. So depth impacts the types of light fixtures you might need -- which then impacts the types of corals you might place at the bottom.

Yes, that's something I've been looking into, although we do have a resident light expert @Dana Riddle , so I was thinking of asking him about it. I've been finding conflicting information about this. One of the things I read said that although light penetration drops off quickly through increasing water depth, it can be mitigated by the reflection from the glass and substrate beneath the water's surface, so that the change in PAR is negligible if you're counting a few inches one way or the other. (but that the drop off is significant if you're counting in meters.) You may disagree. I thought I'd ask Dana who knows a lot more than me on the subject.
 

Greg Gdowski

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Yes, that's something I've been looking into, although we do have a resident light expert @Dana Riddle , so I was thinking of asking him about it. I've been finding conflicting information about this. One of the things I read said that although light penetration drops off quickly through increasing water depth, it can be mitigated by the reflection from the glass and substrate beneath the water's surface, so that the change in PAR is negligible if you're counting a few inches one way or the other. (but that the drop off is significant if you're counting in meters.) You may disagree. I thought I'd ask Dana who knows a lot more than me on the subject.

Clearly difficult optics. I probably should ask a few of my colleagues about this at the University of Rochester. In any case, I think BRS took a nice approach by renting out PAR meters recently. I purchased one a long time ago. When it came to this new tank I was putting together, I didn't want to rely on guessing. I was amazed at how difficult it is to sort out PAR levels underwater. Here is a front picture of my tank with PAR readings above each coral (there are two iterations -- as I adjusted the lights). Look at the numbers --- then look at the lighting. My old eyes can't see the difference in lighting except from maybe top to bottom. Fun stuff. Sorry for derailing the discussion.

IMG_0571 copy.PNG
 

Seawitch

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Clearly difficult optics. I probably should ask a few of my colleagues about this at the University of Rochester. In any case, I think BRS took a nice approach by renting out PAR meters recently. I purchased one a long time ago. When it came to this new tank I was putting together, I didn't want to rely on guessing. I was amazed at how difficult it is to sort out PAR levels underwater. Here is a front picture of my tank with PAR readings above each coral (there are two iterations -- as I adjusted the lights). Look at the numbers --- then look at the lighting. My old eyes can't see the difference in lighting except from maybe top to bottom. Fun stuff. Sorry for derailing the discussion.

IMG_0571 copy.PNG

I read that your lights are 80 degree lenses, which should be about 7" above the water for a 1" spread. Are you able to lower them an inch?
 

Greg Gdowski

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Great question. As I read you response, I questioned my estimate of 8inches. I happened to be home today. The canopy that came with this tank, limited my fixture height. I can raise it off the tank, but I chose to leave it as is. My fixtures are at 6" (already somewhat close). I do have a sloping rock face, so its possible that the light in the front is limited by how much I can rotate the fixture forward. Unfortunately, I never tested it without the rock face. I think Cynthia found a second paper topic. By having the lights lower, I was able to create more discrete zones near the top (note the hydnophora (center) is at 320 Par, while the adjacent hammer corals are at 170 Par).
 

Seawitch

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Great question. As I read you response, I questioned my estimate of 8inches. I happened to be home today. The canopy that came with this tank, limited my fixture height. I can raise it off the tank, but I chose to leave it as is. My fixtures are at 6" (already somewhat close). I do have a sloping rock face, so its possible that the light in the front is limited by how much I can rotate the fixture forward. Unfortunately, I never tested it without the rock face. I think Cynthia found a second paper topic. By having the lights lower, I was able to create more discrete zones near the top (note the hydnophora (center) is at 320 Par, while the adjacent hammer corals are at 170 Par).


Haha! Yeah, I don't have the answer to that one. I get the feeling that on the sides you're getting a higher PAR because of reflection from the side glass. You might want to lift it an inch if possible and measure all those PAR values again. Maybe you'd get more spread if it was higher. There are so many variables. Yes, I find it interesting that the hydnophora PAR is so much higher than the hammer coral. Maybe the light color reflects more. Your water looks crystal clear but any microscopic turbidity affects it, too. I've sent a message to Dana Riddle.
 

Greg Gdowski

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I should recheck the hydnophora light intensity to be sure. To be clear, that was no accident. I was trying hard to get more light on the hydnophora. You wouldn't expect a hammer and octospawn to be at the same depth/height as the hydnophora. The only way I was able to do that was to use multiple Prime HD lights. A trick I learned through a BRS video. ;Happy BTW... the lower light level at the bottom is fine (I'm ok with that). It just dictates what I put down there.
 

Dana Riddle

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Haha! Yeah, I don't have the answer to that one. I get the feeling that on the sides you're getting a higher PAR because of reflection from the side glass. You might want to lift it an inch if possible and measure all those PAR values again. Maybe you'd get more spread if it was higher. There are so many variables. Yes, I find it interesting that the hydnophora PAR is so much higher than the hammer coral. Maybe the light color reflects more. Your water looks crystal clear but any microscopic turbidity affects it, too. I've sent a message to Dana Riddle.
Got the message. We're leaving town for the weekend but developing attenuation coefficients for aquaria would be an interesting project. Even more interesting, to me anyway, would be looking at how shallow water, such as in an aquarium, affects spectral characteristics. I'll have to build some jigs when I get back, but a project such as this shouldn't take more than a couple of days to complete. Analyzing data and writing a couple more.
 

Greg Gdowski

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Dana, that would be super! If you want, I can speak with a few of my optics colleagues here at the University of Rochester. I'm in Biomedical Engineering, but we live in the same building. The spectral characteristics are interesting. I thought they looked at that a bit in the BRS video.
 

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Dana, that would be super! If you want, I can speak with a few of my optics colleagues here at the University of Rochester. I'm in Biomedical Engineering, but we live in the same building. The spectral characteristics are interesting. I thought they looked at that a bit in the BRS video.
Thanks Greg! A review would be much appreciated. I haven't seen BRS's comments on spectral composition and depth. I'll either confirm their findings or create a little controversy.;)
 

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Great article! Thanks for posting. One thing you didn’t talk about are the cube tanks. I have a 60 cube (24x24x24) and I love it except that there isn’t lateral swimming room, and with a corner overflow, aquascaping and water movement are challenging. I would love your opinion.
 
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