Several fish flashing, should I be worried?

Jay Hemdal

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I bought that same refractometer and found it horribly inaccurate, I threw it out.
I’ve not used that particular hydrometer, but I would trust it much more. Do you know how to read it below the
Meniscus?
 
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BSej

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I bought that same refractometer and found it horribly inaccurate, I threw it out.
I’ve not used that particular hydrometer, but I would trust it much more. Do you know how to read it below the
Meniscus?
yes, thank you. I will add some salt to get it to 1.009
 
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BSej

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To my understanding, hypo will kill copepods. I have a dragonet and it doesn't eat frozen. Suggestions?
He doesn't look too good. My LFS said he might start eating frozen but he doesn't.
 

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He doesn't look too good. My LFS said he might start eating frozen but he doesn't.
How does it not look good, can you post a video?
 
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I bought that same refractometer and found it horribly inaccurate, I threw it out.
I’ve not used that particular hydrometer, but I would trust it much more. Do you know how to read it below the
Meniscus?
I don't know at what temperature the hydrometer was calibrated at. They are typically calibrated at 68F. Using an adjustment calculator to account for the temperature difference (assuming calibration at 68F) confirms the two different readings from hydrometer and refractometer.
 

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I don't know at what temperature the hydrometer was calibrated at. They are typically calibrated at 68F. Using an adjustment calculator to account for the temperature difference (assuming calibration at 68F) confirms the two different readings from hydrometer and refractometer.
Most aquarium hydrometers are calibrated for 75 f. Lab hydrometers are more often calibrated for 68 f. I’ve also had issues with the ATC on refractometers not working well.
 
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Most aquarium hydrometers are calibrated for 75 f. Lab hydrometers are more often calibrated for 68 f. I’ve also had issues with the ATC on refractometers not working well.
I reached out to the company, and their hydrometers are calibrated at 60F. I'll use this information for a conversion along with the refractometer when adjusting salinity.
 
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Chocolate tang, and hawkfish died. I think they got some bacterial infection as I saw big brown patches on them like bruises.
 

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Chocolate tang, and hawkfish died. I think they got some bacterial infection as I saw big brown patches on them like bruises.

There is a possible issue - Uronema is a rarer protozoan that resembles bacterial infections and it thrives in hyposalinity. Trouble is, you cannot accurately identify it without a microscope.
 
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There is a possible issue - Uronema is a rarer protozoan that resembles bacterial infections and it thrives in hyposalinity. Trouble is, you cannot accurately identify it without a microscope.
I did one of those aquabiomics tests a while back and it came back with
Uronema_heteromarinumUronema_suspects0.44% (79.6)10.11
 

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I did one of those aquabiomics tests a while back and it came back with
Uronema_heteromarinumUronema_suspects0.44% (79.6)10.11
That’s it. However, many/most aquariums that have been set up door some time will have Uronema in it. These are not obligate parasites, they normally feed on bacteria. Trouble is, they sometimes become fish pathogens, especially under hyposalinity.
 
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That’s it. However, many/most aquariums that have been set up door some time will have Uronema in it. These are not obligate parasites, they normally feed on bacteria. Trouble is, they sometimes become fish pathogens, especially under hyposalinity.
do I need to do anything about it? Or once tank comes out of hypo it’ll be ok?
 

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do I need to do anything about it? Or once tank comes out of hypo it’ll be ok?

Uronema can be difficult to treat. There are two forms, internal and external. The external form can be treated with chloroquine, but that is a kind of tricky treatment. Here is an article I wrote about it:

 
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I'm guessing the flashing is supposed to stop at some point? All the fish that had ich spots have died, and some more have died from uronema. A couple of the remaining fish still flash (either from ich or flukes or both). Is there a time frame where this should end? They've technically only been hypo for a couple days since I had that problem with the calibration on the hydrometer.
 

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I'm guessing the flashing is supposed to stop at some point? All the fish that had ich spots have died, and some more have died from uronema. A couple of the remaining fish still flash (either from ich or flukes or both). Is there a time frame where this should end? They've technically only been hypo for a couple days since I had that problem with the calibration on the hydrometer.
Typically, fish start to turn the corner after they have been in full hypo for three days.
 
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Update: I haven't seen flashing in the last couple days. The remaining fish seem to be doing well except for the dottyback who has begun to hide and lost its appetite. I imagine he will die soon as well. I will begin raising salinity May 18 with the hopes I still have fish then lol (and no ich).
 
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I saw my Formosa flash once today.. does this mean the flukes/ich are still alive? Do I need to start over? I'm supposed to be done on May 18.
 
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Jay Hemdal

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I saw my Formosa flash once today.. does this mean the flukes/ich are still alive? Do I need to start over? I'm supposed to be done on May 18.
Sometimes wrasse “flash” diving for food. Even a regular scratch now and again doesn’t always mean flukes. Ich usually doesn’t cause scratching.
The fish are still in hypo, right? What is the current salinity?
 

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