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I bought that same refractometer and found it horribly inaccurate, I threw it out.
yes, thank you. I will add some salt to get it to 1.009I bought that same refractometer and found it horribly inaccurate, I threw it out.
I’ve not used that particular hydrometer, but I would trust it much more. Do you know how to read it below the
Meniscus?
He doesn't look too good. My LFS said he might start eating frozen but he doesn't.To my understanding, hypo will kill copepods. I have a dragonet and it doesn't eat frozen. Suggestions?
How does it not look good, can you post a video?He doesn't look too good. My LFS said he might start eating frozen but he doesn't.
He died. Striped blenny also died.How does it not look good, can you post a video?
I don't know at what temperature the hydrometer was calibrated at. They are typically calibrated at 68F. Using an adjustment calculator to account for the temperature difference (assuming calibration at 68F) confirms the two different readings from hydrometer and refractometer.I bought that same refractometer and found it horribly inaccurate, I threw it out.
I’ve not used that particular hydrometer, but I would trust it much more. Do you know how to read it below the
Meniscus?
Most aquarium hydrometers are calibrated for 75 f. Lab hydrometers are more often calibrated for 68 f. I’ve also had issues with the ATC on refractometers not working well.I don't know at what temperature the hydrometer was calibrated at. They are typically calibrated at 68F. Using an adjustment calculator to account for the temperature difference (assuming calibration at 68F) confirms the two different readings from hydrometer and refractometer.
I reached out to the company, and their hydrometers are calibrated at 60F. I'll use this information for a conversion along with the refractometer when adjusting salinity.Most aquarium hydrometers are calibrated for 75 f. Lab hydrometers are more often calibrated for 68 f. I’ve also had issues with the ATC on refractometers not working well.
Chocolate tang, and hawkfish died. I think they got some bacterial infection as I saw big brown patches on them like bruises.
I did one of those aquabiomics tests a while back and it came back withThere is a possible issue - Uronema is a rarer protozoan that resembles bacterial infections and it thrives in hyposalinity. Trouble is, you cannot accurately identify it without a microscope.
Uronema_heteromarinum | Uronema_suspects | 0.44% (79.6) | 10.11 |
That’s it. However, many/most aquariums that have been set up door some time will have Uronema in it. These are not obligate parasites, they normally feed on bacteria. Trouble is, they sometimes become fish pathogens, especially under hyposalinity.I did one of those aquabiomics tests a while back and it came back with
Uronema_heteromarinum Uronema_suspects 0.44% (79.6) 10.11
do I need to do anything about it? Or once tank comes out of hypo it’ll be ok?That’s it. However, many/most aquariums that have been set up door some time will have Uronema in it. These are not obligate parasites, they normally feed on bacteria. Trouble is, they sometimes become fish pathogens, especially under hyposalinity.
do I need to do anything about it? Or once tank comes out of hypo it’ll be ok?
Typically, fish start to turn the corner after they have been in full hypo for three days.I'm guessing the flashing is supposed to stop at some point? All the fish that had ich spots have died, and some more have died from uronema. A couple of the remaining fish still flash (either from ich or flukes or both). Is there a time frame where this should end? They've technically only been hypo for a couple days since I had that problem with the calibration on the hydrometer.
Sometimes wrasse “flash” diving for food. Even a regular scratch now and again doesn’t always mean flukes. Ich usually doesn’t cause scratching.I saw my Formosa flash once today.. does this mean the flukes/ich are still alive? Do I need to start over? I'm supposed to be done on May 18.