Say What? HEATERS and CHILLERs not totally necessary???

sculpin01

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All of the research on coral reproduction centers around seasonal temperature variation (plus moon phases, light intensity, and day length) as a means to trigger spawning. So in Dr. Jamie Craggs and other scientists' tanks, temperature in the aquarium is varied between roughly 74 to 84 degrees F on a yearly basis. Craggs et al. have demonstrated that there is no detrimental effect on the corals in their systems, and with this approach they have successfully spawned numerous corals using this method. In addition, day-to-night temperature variance of ~1.5 degrees F are normal in natural settings and are also well tolerated.

The old standard of 78 degrees F being the best temperature to keep corals at may revolve around research into bacterial and coral growth rates. Lower temperatures tend to decrease the risk of bacterial-based coral illnesses (particularly Vibrio coralliilyticus which infects corals above 80.5 F). In addition, at least one study demonstrated maximal coral growth at ~77 F.


 

Blinkdo

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It's all about stability. No its no necessary to have a chiller or heater if you can prevent the temp swings within 1-2 degrees. Of course if the temperature fluctuates in the environment where the tank is, then it maybe necessary. I definitely wouldn't want to temp to go any higher than 81 degrees as that could be detrimental to the corals.
 

Mark Gray

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All of the research on coral reproduction centers around seasonal temperature variation (plus moon phases, light intensity, and day length) as a means to trigger spawning. So in Dr. Jamie Craggs and other scientists' tanks, temperature in the aquarium is varied between roughly 74 to 84 degrees F on a yearly basis. Craggs et al. have demonstrated that there is no detrimental effect on the corals in their systems, and with this approach they have successfully spawned numerous corals using this method. In addition, day-to-night temperature variance of ~1.5 degrees F are normal in natural settings and are also well tolerated.

The old standard of 78 degrees F being the best temperature to keep corals at may revolve around research into bacterial and coral growth rates. Lower temperatures tend to decrease the risk of bacterial-based coral illnesses (particularly Vibrio coralliilyticus which infects corals above 80.5 F). In addition, at least one study demonstrated maximal coral growth at ~77 F.


Fantastic topic. Right now my reef is at 82.5 today it was fairly cool. Some days it gets to almost 87, this one at least. I do have to heat it things don't look so good at 70. About 3 years or so ago I moved a tank into the garage it got over 90 everything survived. Now my current tank I have a mix all my SPS is gone but that was due to severe dinoflagellates. I have some LPS and some softies, and a maxima clam that has been there through it all.
 

tigre44

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I run both I live se of Denver. I have mh and t5 lighting even with a/c tk temps go to 86 and some of my corals look stressed. I have a small chiller that knocks the temp down to 82-84. I have my heater set at 75 don’t know how much it is used in winter a suspect not much. I disconnect the heater in the summer.
 
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Glenner’sreef

Glenner’sreef

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All of the research on coral reproduction centers around seasonal temperature variation (plus moon phases, light intensity, and day length) as a means to trigger spawning. So in Dr. Jamie Craggs and other scientists' tanks, temperature in the aquarium is varied between roughly 74 to 84 degrees F on a yearly basis. Craggs et al. have demonstrated that there is no detrimental effect on the corals in their systems, and with this approach they have successfully spawned numerous corals using this method. In addition, day-to-night temperature variance of ~1.5 degrees F are normal in natural settings and are also well tolerated.

The old standard of 78 degrees F being the best temperature to keep corals at may revolve around research into bacterial and coral growth rates. Lower temperatures tend to decrease the risk of bacterial-based coral illnesses (particularly Vibrio coralliilyticus which infects corals above 80.5 F). In addition, at least one study demonstrated maximal coral growth at ~77 F.


Thanks for this insight @sculpin01 really great stuff!!!
 

sculpin01

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Just to clarify, it does not require a science lab to run yearly temperature cycles. All you need is an Apex, a heater, and +/- a fan or chiller (depending on how OCD you want to be). I have three tanks running this program with no ill effects, with one tank running this way since 2019. My corals seem pretty happy with the temperature changes.

If anyone is interested, I would be happy to explain the process.
 

Bruce Burnett

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I don't think it is a temperature swing problem but more likely a bacterial problem. Reef crest and even lagoon temps can have big daily swings. Even corals get exposed to air and the mid-day sun. Small box of water sudden temp swing changes oxygen and bacteria levels quickly. My previous tank varied as much as 15 degrees through the year living in Havasu, Arizona, no chiller did have a heater which never came on. Probably varied 4 degrees during the day.
 
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Glenner’sreef

Glenner’sreef

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Just to clarify, it does not require a science lab to run yearly temperature cycles. All you need is an Apex, a heater, and +/- a fan or chiller (depending on how OCD you want to be). I have three tanks running this program with no ill effects, with one tank running this way since 2019. My corals seem pretty happy with the temperature changes.

If anyone is interested, I would be happy to explain the process.
Nice, my version of the same process is: a heater with a digital monitor that displays my temperature at any given moment, 77-79-82 etc. And then a thermostat in our hallway to keep the house temperature around 77-78 degrees year around. Definitely not a science lab. But it also works. Thx for input.
 

Crustaceon

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I have heaters but they'll only maintain the tank at 74 degrees typically in the winter. During the hottest days in summer, my tank will get up to 85 degrees. I've never had issues, even with acropora at these temperature extremes for weeks on end.
 

Lbrdsoxfan

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Nice, my version of the same process is: a heater with a digital monitor that displays my temperature at any given moment, 77-79-82 etc. And then a thermostat in our hallway to keep the house temperature around 77-78 degrees year around. Definitely not a science lab. But it also works. Thx for input.
I never involved science either. Simplicity seems to work ok in my situation also. I'm more worried about a runaway heater than maintaining a 2 degree swing over 24 hours. Fish and coral acclimate throughout the day just fine.

For years I didn't even bother with heaters in the FOWLR days. Never lost anything. I had them in a tank, they weren't plugged in.
 
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Glenner’sreef

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I never involved science either. Simplicity seems to work ok in my situation also. I'm more worried about a runaway heater than maintaining a 2 degree swing over 24 hours. Fish and coral acclimate throughout the day just fine.

For years I didn't even bother with heaters in the FOWLR days. Never lost anything. I had them in a tank, they weren't plugged in.
Common sense and wisdom!!! Nice.
 

amoore311

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I like being comfortable in my home, which means temps around 74 max all year round.

That doesn't working for a reef tank, so I run heaters.
 

sculpin01

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I don't think it is a temperature swing problem but more likely a bacterial problem. Reef crest and even lagoon temps can have big daily swings. Even corals get exposed to air and the mid-day sun. Small box of water sudden temp swing changes oxygen and bacteria levels quickly. My previous tank varied as much as 15 degrees through the year living in Havasu, Arizona, no chiller did have a heater which never came on. Probably varied 4 degrees during the day.
Like most things involving corals, slow changes over time are tolerated well. Big, sudden changes are not.
 

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Yeah. My theory is that up to a point, high flow negates temperature damage. I live in the Caribbean and it does get pretty warm. My tank never goes below 81 and goes up to 84 daily and in summer higher as well. As long as the water isn’t warm to the touch my corals seem fine. When I dive here around Staghorn and elkhorns, the temperature is often pretty warm but the flow is high.
My tank yesterday hit 88 even with a fan on, due to humidity. Corals were fine. Acros I have didn’t seem to mind. They never seem to. I just make sure flow is pretty high.
 

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sculpin01

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Yeah. My theory is that up to a point, high flow negates temperature damage. I live in the Caribbean and it does get pretty warm. My tank never goes below 81 and goes up to 84 daily and in summer higher as well. As long as the water isn’t warm to the touch my corals seem fine. When I dive here around Staghorn and elkhorns, the temperature is often pretty warm but the flow is high.
My tank yesterday hit 88 even with a fan on, due to humidity. Corals were fine. Acros I have didn’t seem to mind. They never seem to. I just make sure flow is pretty high.

When temperatures get too high, it’s best to lower light levels to reduce the risk of bleaching. Bleaching (in this scenario) is from thermal stress combined with ongoing UV irradiation. The combination is thought to result in excess oxygen free radical production in coral tissues with subsequent expulsion of zooxanthellae/Symbiodinium leading to the “bleached” appearance.

85 F is an average bleaching threshold for most stony corals but corals from hotter/shallower environments can tolerate up to 90 F for short periods of time.
 

X-37B

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Heater in the winter only no chiller. I do have 2 old chillers in the garage that have not seen action in many years.
20g nano cube runs 84
45 frag 82
80g 80
The 20 and 45 need no heater year round as they are in a temp controlled room for the snakes.
We keep it at 80°f.

Keeping temp in range will vary on many systems. Pick your desired range and dont stress as long as your corals are happy.

When I ran halides my day/night was 4°f now its only 2°f.

Temp is another variable that
you decide before the system is up. Have a plan for all variables and you wil succeed.

My 20g no heater nano cube is 6 months old and counting.
20220726_120015.jpg
 
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Glenner’sreef

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Heater in the winter only no chiller. I do have 2 old chillers in the garage that have not seen action in many years.
20g nano cube runs 84
45 frag 82
80g 80
The 20 and 45 need no heater year round as they are in a temp controlled room for the snakes.
We keep it at 80°f.

Keeping temp in range will vary on many systems. Pick your desired range and dont stress as long as your corals are happy.

When I ran halides my day/night was 4°f now its only 2°f.

Temp is another variable that
you decide before the system is up. Have a plan for all variables and you wil succeed.

My 20g no heater nano cube is 6 months old and counting.
20220726_120015.jpg
Nice reef!!! Good input.
 

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