RO/DI Questions

Opus

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So when the DI is exhausted u have to replace the filter in it? Cause the proline I have is just an RO system and I would need to get a DI for it. I will try the TDS and see how it goes from there. Thanks for the help!
Also, note that the diagram that Kstatefan posted is for replacing your current unit with the 200gpd unit. It would have to be setup that way because it is not recommended to drink RODI water. The DI material is not food grade so is not recommended for human consumption.
 

Exotrezy

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Depending on price it would be a great option. Just realize all the filters might be near the end of their life so you would have to replace them. If they have let it set dry then the RO membranes are most likely ruined. Also you want double carbon blocks not double DI. You can do double DI but that is more of a safety measure.

With that system you could replace the current one or use it separately. If you have a laundry room, that is a good spot if you have the room. You just buy a splitter with control knobs for the cold water side so you can hook up the water to the RO unit and the washing machine. Then you can just turn on the RO side when you need to make water. I have a 200gpd unit and it takes around 40 to 50 minutes (depending on water temp) to fill up a 5 gallon jug.
The person said that the filters are still good, so the Dual DI should work for chloramines?
 

Exotrezy

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Also, note that the diagram that Kstatefan posted is for replacing your current unit with the 200gpd unit. It would have to be setup that way because it is not recommended to drink RODI water. The DI material is not food grade so is not recommended for human consumption.
Oh, So i should just get a seperate RODI like the AquaticLife 5 stage 200 GPD one so that it it doesn’t interfere with my drinkable RO and I will have a RODI for my fish.
 

Opus

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The person said that the filters are still good, so the Dual DI should work for chloramines?
No, you want dual carbon filters for chloramines or a filter made for chloramines. Personally I have chloramines and I run a chloramine filter that then goes into a regular carbon filter.

The basic working of a RODI unit is like this. Your first filter is the sediment filter. Its purpose is to remove any undissolved particles that could clog the carbon or RO filters. I personally have a .2 micron sediment filter but most run a 5 or 1 micron sediment filter. After the sediment filter is the carbon filter(s). Their purpose is to take out chemicals such as chlorine, chloramines that could ruin the RO filter and also your reef. I usually go with 1 micron carbon filters but 5 micron seems to be the popular version. Next is the RO filter which is the workhorse. It takes out 95%+ of the stuff in the water. The last filter is the DI which takes out anything else that is left in the water, tds wise.
 

Opus

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Oh, So i should just get a seperate RODI like the AquaticLife 5 stage 200 GPD one so that it it doesn’t interfere with my drinkable RO and I will have a RODI for my fish.
That is what I would do but it is up to you. It is your money and time.
 

west co reefer

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Did you want to use the unit for drinking water too? I currently use the Hurricane Dual Home Reef from airwaterice.com and I have 0 complaints. They have good pricing and have been in the business for a long time.

I used to have a Spectrapure unit back in the day and that was a high quality unit.
 

Exotrezy

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That is what I would do but it is up to you. It is your money and time.
So I would need to buy a di and a chloramine filter? I think that could work as only 1 DI is $34 and the filter is $20. Thanks for the help
 

Exotrezy

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Did you want to use the unit for drinking water too? I currently use the Hurricane Dual Home Reef from airwaterice.com and I have 0 complaints. They have good pricing and have been in the business for a long time.

I used to have a Spectrapure unit back in the day and that was a high quality unit.
I don’t need the unit for drinking water as I have my fridge and a drinking RO aswell, I need it only for my fish.
 

Exotrezy

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No, you want dual carbon filters for chloramines or a filter made for chloramines. Personally I have chloramines and I run a chloramine filter that then goes into a regular carbon filter.

The basic working of a RODI unit is like this. Your first filter is the sediment filter. Its purpose is to remove any undissolved particles that could clog the carbon or RO filters. I personally have a .2 micron sediment filter but most run a 5 or 1 micron sediment filter. After the sediment filter is the carbon filter(s). Their purpose is to take out chemicals such as chlorine, chloramines that could ruin the RO filter and also your reef. I usually go with 1 micron carbon filters but 5 micron seems to be the popular version. Next is the RO filter which is the workhorse. It takes out 95%+ of the stuff in the water. The last filter is the DI which takes out anything else that is left in the water, tds wise.
Also do you have a DI you recommend?
 

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Opus

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Exotrezy

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I just go with a name brand, I don't think it really matters. If you are buying an Aquatic Life unit then I saw they sell a 2 bag package on Amazon for $39.
I looked and I found an IceCap Dual DI for $50 and free shipping on saltwater aquarium.com most likely going with that one
 

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Opus

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No, I was referencing a 2 pack refill. You only need 1 DI canister unless you have something in your water that is eating thru your DI. Others like to know they are always going to get 0 tds after the DI so they will have a double unit. They will test the DI coming out of the 1st canister and once it is above 0 they will move the number 2 canister to the 1st spot and refill the 1st canister and put it in the second spot.
 

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