RO/DI Questions

[Mizu]

Hello, so Im getting into the hobby and my local store recommended me to get an RO/DI system at some point, so I figured it might be best to start from now so the amount of salt in the water stays consistent.

For context: My tank is going to be 32 gallons and mostly a fish tank, I don't plan on any corals currently.

Is there an RO/DI system that is recommended for beginners? Also, after I buy the RO/DI system, do I just need to purchase salt and the occasional replacement filters?


I found one online that is pretty cheap and was wondering if this is acceptable (I also found what appears to be the same model on another website for 5x the price so just wondering if these are the same):

1. https://www.ataquariums.com/shop/p/puratek-100-gpd-rodi-filter-system-aquamaxx

2. https://premiumaquatics.com/products/puratek-deluxe-100-gpd-rodi-filter-system-aquamaxx.html

Lastly, I found this upgrade filter kit, im assuming these would be replacement filters?

AquaMaxx 4 Stage Upgrade Filter Kit - With Refillable DI

Keep your Aquamaxx Puratek RO/DI System running efficiently with this drop-in replacement filter kit. Regularly replacing your filter elements ensures proper pre-treatment of your tap water, removing harsh chemicals and sediments that can damage the RO membrane, thereby ensuring that you are...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Thank you in advance for any help!

 

[Troylee]

That’s a decent unit but I think that first link is a scam! The only unit in that price range is a ro buddy on Amazon..

 

[fishywishy]

I use the ro buddy from Amazon and I’ve never had any issues with it. The only thing is that in the long run it’s going to be cheaper to get one of the more expensive ones because every 6 months to a year you have to change all the cartridges which cost 30 bucks.

 

[Opus]

First one says they are open box. They offer no warranty so it sounds like if you get it and something is wrong, you will get no help/refund from them. It is up to you if the savings is worth the risk.

You are correct. The BRS link is just replacement filters.

You really should check your water supply and see if they use chlorine or chloramines. If they use chloramines, then you want a unit with 2 carbon filters or 1 filter made for chloramines.

 

[Uncle99]

I’ve used the simple Amazon buddy for years along with a standard refillable 10” canister for DI resin producing 40 gallons a week used in my 250g system.

It’s cheap, works well and produces 0 TDS.

I have to change the sediment at 6 months, Carbon at 3 months and the membrane at 18 months.

Great water for the price.

 

[ZachariahBeanz]

I use the ro buddy from Amazon and I’ve never had any issues with it. The only thing is that in the long run it’s going to be cheaper to get one of the more expensive ones because every 6 months to a year you have to change all the cartridges which cost 30 bucks.

Yeah, I use the RO Buddy too. It’s pretty cheap to start, and it’s easy to use. But, having to replace the cartridges will eventually make it more expensive. So, I would just go for the more expensive option, it will most likely cost you less in the long run.

 

[KStatefan]

What Opus said above. Know the quality of your source water and get what will provide the best solution. The cheapest system might cost more.

 

[Exotrezy]

First one says they are open box. They offer no warranty so it sounds like if you get it and something is wrong, you will get no help/refund from them. It is up to you if the savings is worth the risk.

You are correct. The BRS link is just replacement filters.

You really should check your water supply and see if they use chlorine or chloramines. If they use chloramines, then you want a unit with 2 carbon filters or 1 filter made for chloramines.

Do you know a unit with either 2 carbon filters or 1 filter made for chloramines as I have chloramines in my water.

 

[Dbichler]

I highly recommend aquafx and for chloramines all you have to do is add a 10” canister to the system to add another carbon and your good to go.

 

[Opus]

Do you know a unit with either 2 carbon filters or 1 filter made for chloramines as I have chloramines in my water.

All the name brands are about the same. I personally stick with spectrapure but that is because I've been using them for many many years and they are high quality. If you want more of a personal touch, go with a smaller company that only does water quality products. Buckeye Hydro is a sponsor here and I've always heard great things about them and they will walk you thru any issues and can put together a unit that is specific to your needs.

I bought my RO unit around 1995, there was no DI back then. I was a Kent Marine unit and was around $200. Since then I've added a second carbon canister and a DI canister. Also upgraded the RO membrane since the original was only 20gpd.

 

[Exotrezy]

All the name brands are about the same. I personally stick with spectrapure but that is because I've been using them for many many years and they are high quality. If you want more of a personal touch, go with a smaller company that only does water quality products. Buckeye Hydro is a sponsor here and I've always heard great things about them and they will walk you thru any issues and can put together a unit that is specific to your needs.

I bought my RO unit around 1995, there was no DI back then. I was a Kent Marine unit and was around $200. Since then I've added a second carbon canister and a DI canister. Also upgraded the RO membrane since the original was only 20gpd.

I have a proline ez series 450EZ installed at my house for RO drinking water and I was wondering if I could just attach a DI to it and would that be good? Someone told me that for those they usually add minerals to the water which could be bad for the fish.

 

[Opus]

I have a proline ez series 450EZ installed at my house for RO drinking water and I was wondering if I could just attach a DI to it and would that be good? Someone told me that for those they usually add minerals to the water which could be bad for the fish.

Looking at their website, the filters are sediment, carbon, RO and then GAC. None of those add minerals back but you could get particles from the GAC since it is after the RO membrane. Personally I would install a T between the RO and GAC and then run that to a DI for your aquarium water.

First though, I would invest in a tds meter, I believe they are still under $20 on Amazon. That way you can test your tds at the tap and after your RO membrane to see how efficient the system is working. A good system should be around 97 to 98% rejection though most only guarantee around 95%. I use the ultra efficient RO membrane from Spectrapure and my tap tds runs between 400-450 and my tds after the RO membrane is usually around 4 to 5. As the tds goes up the shorter the life you will have with your DI media. For example, if your tds going into the DI is 6 then your DI media will make around 740 gallons of 0 tds water. If that number is 20, then your DI will only make around 220 gallons before it is exhausted.

 

[Exotrezy]

Looking at their website, the filters are sediment, carbon, RO and then GAC. None of those add minerals back but you could get particles from the GAC since it is after the RO membrane. Personally I would install a T between the RO and GAC and then run that to a DI for your aquarium water.

First though, I would invest in a tds meter, I believe they are still under $20 on Amazon. That way you can test your tds at the tap and after your RO membrane to see how efficient the system is working. A good system should be around 97 to 98% rejection though most only guarantee around 95%. I use the ultra efficient RO membrane from Spectrapure and my tap tds runs between 400-450 and my tds after the RO membrane is usually around 4 to 5. As the tds goes up the shorter the life you will have with your DI media. For example, if your tds going into the DI is 6 then your DI media will make around 740 gallons of 0 tds water. If that number is 20, then your DI will only make around 220 gallons before it is exhausted.

So when the DI is exhausted u have to replace the filter in it? Cause the proline I have is just an RO system and I would need to get a DI for it. I will try the TDS and see how it goes from there. Thanks for the help!

 

[Exotrezy]

Looking at their website, the filters are sediment, carbon, RO and then GAC. None of those add minerals back but you could get particles from the GAC since it is after the RO membrane. Personally I would install a T between the RO and GAC and then run that to a DI for your aquarium water.

First though, I would invest in a tds meter, I believe they are still under $20 on Amazon. That way you can test your tds at the tap and after your RO membrane to see how efficient the system is working. A good system should be around 97 to 98% rejection though most only guarantee around 95%. I use the ultra efficient RO membrane from Spectrapure and my tap tds runs between 400-450 and my tds after the RO membrane is usually around 4 to 5. As the tds goes up the shorter the life you will have with your DI media. For example, if your tds going into the DI is 6 then your DI media will make around 740 gallons of 0 tds water. If that number is 20, then your DI will only make around 220 gallons before it is exhausted.

https://amzn.to/45N3pJe is this one good? Also you said that you would install a T between the RO and GAC but what is a T? Sorry I am new so I don't know some of these things. Thanks for the help!

 

[Exotrezy]

Looking at their website, the filters are sediment, carbon, RO and then GAC. None of those add minerals back but you could get particles from the GAC since it is after the RO membrane. Personally I would install a T between the RO and GAC and then run that to a DI for your aquarium water.

First though, I would invest in a tds meter, I believe they are still under $20 on Amazon. That way you can test your tds at the tap and after your RO membrane to see how efficient the system is working. A good system should be around 97 to 98% rejection though most only guarantee around 95%. I use the ultra efficient RO membrane from Spectrapure and my tap tds runs between 400-450 and my tds after the RO membrane is usually around 4 to 5. As the tds goes up the shorter the life you will have with your DI media. For example, if your tds going into the DI is 6 then your DI media will make around 740 gallons of 0 tds water. If that number is 20, then your DI will only make around 220 gallons before it is exhausted.

Or something like this? https://amzn.to/4eJma41

 

[Exotrezy]

Looking at their website, the filters are sediment, carbon, RO and then GAC. None of those add minerals back but you could get particles from the GAC since it is after the RO membrane. Personally I would install a T between the RO and GAC and then run that to a DI for your aquarium water.

First though, I would invest in a tds meter, I believe they are still under $20 on Amazon. That way you can test your tds at the tap and after your RO membrane to see how efficient the system is working. A good system should be around 97 to 98% rejection though most only guarantee around 95%. I use the ultra efficient RO membrane from Spectrapure and my tap tds runs between 400-450 and my tds after the RO membrane is usually around 4 to 5. As the tds goes up the shorter the life you will have with your DI media. For example, if your tds going into the DI is 6 then your DI media will make around 740 gallons of 0 tds water. If that number is 20, then your DI will only make around 220 gallons before it is exhausted.

My other option would be getting an AquaticLife 200 GPD RO off Facebook as someone is selling it used for a good deal and just adding a Dual DI to it which would remove chloramines and be a good, fast system that I can use later on too. This would be a very similar thing as just adding a DI to my Proline 450EZ but that proline comes out of a faucet and isn’t very fast. It only has a 5 gallon tank and gets exhausted after a hour of continuously letting it run. Which would not be good and I think the 200 GPD is a good option as I would only need to spend $150 for it and the Dual DI which is good. Any advice?

 

[KStatefan]

Lots of places have a good dual DI set up but you want the carbon blocks to remove the chloramines. You also want to tee in prior to the storage tank.

 

[Opus]

https://amzn.to/45N3pJe is this one good? Also you said that you would install a T between the RO and GAC but what is a T? Sorry I am new so I don't know some of these things. Thanks for the help!

That will work but that one is installed in the RO system tubing. If you want to take a reading at a different spot you have to uninstall it and install it in the new spot. I prefer a handheld one like the

HM Digital TDS-3 Handheld TDS​

 

[Opus]

My other option would be getting an AquaticLife 200 GPD RO off Facebook as someone is selling it used for a good deal and just adding a Dual DI to it which would remove chloramines and be a good, fast system that I can use later on too. This would be a very similar thing as just adding a DI to my Proline 450EZ but that proline comes out of a faucet and isn’t very fast. It only has a 5 gallon tank and gets exhausted after a hour of continuously letting it run. Which would not be good and I think the 200 GPD is a good option as I would only need to spend $150 for it and the Dual DI which is good. Any advice?

Depending on price it would be a great option. Just realize all the filters might be near the end of their life so you would have to replace them. If they have let it set dry then the RO membranes are most likely ruined. Also you want double carbon blocks not double DI. You can do double DI but that is more of a safety measure.

With that system you could replace the current one or use it separately. If you have a laundry room, that is a good spot if you have the room. You just buy a splitter with control knobs for the cold water side so you can hook up the water to the RO unit and the washing machine. Then you can just turn on the RO side when you need to make water. I have a 200gpd unit and it takes around 40 to 50 minutes (depending on water temp) to fill up a 5 gallon jug.

 

[Opus]

So when the DI is exhausted u have to replace the filter in it? Cause the proline I have is just an RO system and I would need to get a DI for it. I will try the TDS and see how it goes from there. Thanks for the help!

Yes you have to replace the DI. The DI filter is a cartridge that fits in a canister. You just buy the DI resin in bulk and refill the DI cartridge when it is exhausted. Depending on how much you use, you can buy the DI in 1 cartridge refill size or larger sizes that will refill the cartridge several times.