Hoping to get some input from others on the plumbing of my new tank.
I have been in this hobby for 25+ years…but everything I have plumbed has always just been tubes running here or there in an overall kind of haphazard mess. So with this tank I decided to try and make it as clean as possible with plumbing. My other goal was everything to be completely self-contained in the stand…I don’t want anything on the side of or next to it. Which limited space for plumbing and hardware.
I am only concerned about the plumbing at this point, cable management, unpainted wood, etc. is irrelevant…it is still a tank build in progress, but I want make sure my plumbing is in place and good to go…before I swap out all the white PVC with blue furniture grade PVC.
I tried to be as thorough as possible with information and photos. Hopefully I was able to accomplish that. However, I am sure I missed something and there will be questions.
I have tested removing and re-installing everything, so while tight in theory, I should be able to access everything and be able to remove all or certain pieces and put them all back. However, once it has some time to sit with water in it and "have a life of it's own", might be more challenging then I think...time will only tell.
Also to note, this is not my only flow for the tank. I will have an Ecotech mp40 pushing additional water.
My main concerns are:
1 – Is the Vectra L2 going to be able to handle this as the only return pump?
2 – Any significant issues you see?
3 – I’m open to wisdom on the plumbing aspects…however, I am not open to debate on why I have chosen certain equipment, unless it has a direct effect on the plumbing or water through the plumbing. Items have already been purchased, and I have already done my research. Personal preferences are too late at this point.
*note* I am not using check valves on the drains. I will utilize the age old siphon break on any plumbing in the tank and try to keep outlets of plumbing above the level of the overflow box grate, so they break the siphon before the holes are even utilized.
The break down:
Shadow OverFlow box:
- I have the plumbing attached with PVC “clamps”…which holds them at a inward angle towards the stand slight angle…is this a concern for the sealing of the overflow box?
Notes:
- All 3 inlets have been reduced from 1.5” to 1” at the overflow box itself.
- I plan to have 2 of the drains draining at the same time into the sump and the 3rd will be an emergency drain.
- The reason for the Neptune flow meter on the main drains, is, one, for information sake, but if one starts flowing less or more than usual, it could give me an indication that one might have a blockage that needs addressed
- Will be using Durso overflows for the main drains, will just have open drain on the emergency.
- Main Drain #1 has:
25” of total pipe (18” vertical & 7” horizontal)
1 – Neptune Flow Meter
1 – gate valve
2 – 45’s
- Main Drain #2 has:
40” of pipe (18” vertical & 19” horizontal)
1 – Nepture flow meter
1 – Gate Valve
1 – 90 elbow
1 – 45’s
1 – union (to aid with ease of potentially needing to remove it)
- Emergency Drain
30” of pipe (22” vertical & 9” horizontal)
1 – Neptune Flow meter
2 – 45’s
Return with manifold that terminates into tank at a 1” sea swirl
- Pump - Ecotech Vectra L2
74” of pipe (34” vertical & 40” horizontal)
1 ¼ reduced at pump down to 1”
6 – 45’s
2 – 90 elbows
1 – Neptune flow meter
-Manifold w/ 4 “T”’s
1st “T” – reduced to ¼” for SPS kit for the salinity probe
2nd “T” – capped for potential future use
3rd “T” – reduced to ½” to feed Ice Cap 24 watt UV sterilizer
Contains:
58” of pipe (26” vertical & 32” horizontal)
1 – double union gate valve (this was done to save space)
5 – 90 elbows
1 – Union
5 – 45’s
1 – Neptune flow meter
4th “T” – capped for potential future use
Other non traditional plumbing
1 – Ozone: I will be running ozone into the skimmer. I have ozotech generator which will pull air from outside the tank stand (to start with as dry of air as possible), which will then run into a Resin Ozotech air dryer, before going into the generator and then fed into the skimmer.
2 – Balling Method: I will be utilizing Neptune’s DOS’ers for a 3 part balling method, all of which will be dripped into the return section of the sump
3 – Reef Bot – I will have the reef bot under that stand, and will have tubes to pull from the ATO container (also contained under the stand) and the return section of the sump.
4 – I will also have the 4th Neptune DOS pump regularly pull ATO water to add to the tank. (I will have a more traditional ATO system in place, in case the DOS fails or for some reason, can’t keep up with the evaporation)
I think that is it and everything is covered. I am sure there will be some questions and I am happy to answer them.
I have been in this hobby for 25+ years…but everything I have plumbed has always just been tubes running here or there in an overall kind of haphazard mess. So with this tank I decided to try and make it as clean as possible with plumbing. My other goal was everything to be completely self-contained in the stand…I don’t want anything on the side of or next to it. Which limited space for plumbing and hardware.
I am only concerned about the plumbing at this point, cable management, unpainted wood, etc. is irrelevant…it is still a tank build in progress, but I want make sure my plumbing is in place and good to go…before I swap out all the white PVC with blue furniture grade PVC.
I tried to be as thorough as possible with information and photos. Hopefully I was able to accomplish that. However, I am sure I missed something and there will be questions.
I have tested removing and re-installing everything, so while tight in theory, I should be able to access everything and be able to remove all or certain pieces and put them all back. However, once it has some time to sit with water in it and "have a life of it's own", might be more challenging then I think...time will only tell.
Also to note, this is not my only flow for the tank. I will have an Ecotech mp40 pushing additional water.
My main concerns are:
1 – Is the Vectra L2 going to be able to handle this as the only return pump?
2 – Any significant issues you see?
3 – I’m open to wisdom on the plumbing aspects…however, I am not open to debate on why I have chosen certain equipment, unless it has a direct effect on the plumbing or water through the plumbing. Items have already been purchased, and I have already done my research. Personal preferences are too late at this point.
*note* I am not using check valves on the drains. I will utilize the age old siphon break on any plumbing in the tank and try to keep outlets of plumbing above the level of the overflow box grate, so they break the siphon before the holes are even utilized.
The break down:
Shadow OverFlow box:
- I have the plumbing attached with PVC “clamps”…which holds them at a inward angle towards the stand slight angle…is this a concern for the sealing of the overflow box?
Notes:
- All 3 inlets have been reduced from 1.5” to 1” at the overflow box itself.
- I plan to have 2 of the drains draining at the same time into the sump and the 3rd will be an emergency drain.
- The reason for the Neptune flow meter on the main drains, is, one, for information sake, but if one starts flowing less or more than usual, it could give me an indication that one might have a blockage that needs addressed
- Will be using Durso overflows for the main drains, will just have open drain on the emergency.
- Main Drain #1 has:
25” of total pipe (18” vertical & 7” horizontal)
1 – Neptune Flow Meter
1 – gate valve
2 – 45’s
- Main Drain #2 has:
40” of pipe (18” vertical & 19” horizontal)
1 – Nepture flow meter
1 – Gate Valve
1 – 90 elbow
1 – 45’s
1 – union (to aid with ease of potentially needing to remove it)
- Emergency Drain
30” of pipe (22” vertical & 9” horizontal)
1 – Neptune Flow meter
2 – 45’s
Return with manifold that terminates into tank at a 1” sea swirl
- Pump - Ecotech Vectra L2
74” of pipe (34” vertical & 40” horizontal)
1 ¼ reduced at pump down to 1”
6 – 45’s
2 – 90 elbows
1 – Neptune flow meter
-Manifold w/ 4 “T”’s
1st “T” – reduced to ¼” for SPS kit for the salinity probe
2nd “T” – capped for potential future use
3rd “T” – reduced to ½” to feed Ice Cap 24 watt UV sterilizer
Contains:
58” of pipe (26” vertical & 32” horizontal)
1 – double union gate valve (this was done to save space)
5 – 90 elbows
1 – Union
5 – 45’s
1 – Neptune flow meter
4th “T” – capped for potential future use
Other non traditional plumbing
1 – Ozone: I will be running ozone into the skimmer. I have ozotech generator which will pull air from outside the tank stand (to start with as dry of air as possible), which will then run into a Resin Ozotech air dryer, before going into the generator and then fed into the skimmer.
2 – Balling Method: I will be utilizing Neptune’s DOS’ers for a 3 part balling method, all of which will be dripped into the return section of the sump
3 – Reef Bot – I will have the reef bot under that stand, and will have tubes to pull from the ATO container (also contained under the stand) and the return section of the sump.
4 – I will also have the 4th Neptune DOS pump regularly pull ATO water to add to the tank. (I will have a more traditional ATO system in place, in case the DOS fails or for some reason, can’t keep up with the evaporation)
I think that is it and everything is covered. I am sure there will be some questions and I am happy to answer them.
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