Removing Ammonia in my Tank

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poseidonreefs_

poseidonreefs_

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Thats literally massive surface area, massive.

thats every frag tank from the chicest fish stores I've ever seen.

it's not like you're dealing in untested waters, about two thousand of those above have seneyes hooked to them showing what ammonia does in that exact setting, and it's fine

it's not ammonia. that's simply too much surface area, coral frags are surface area (then becomes live rock in another millennia with it's surface area prowess still in tact)

your bioload is so low I can't even see any fish. I know some are in there but its not like ten regal angels fouling up the place. It is biologically impossible for that reef tank to fail to control ammonia. if you know anyone with a seneye, having them bring it over and hook it up could be soooo helpful

and if nobody near has a seneye, we'd stop factoring ammonia and increase work+protein+clean water throughput sustained like reef exercise

its currently sedentary

for eight weeks/reef will pop shine/ammonia never mattered. no doser, param, nothing is as important as dropping light levels a bit, go down a small % in power and lighter whites/a little deeper blues sustain for eight weeks while doing something markedly different in stepped-up feed + water change habits, for two mos

it works exactly like a lifting program for a human. reef exercise rebuilding. applying updated cycling science which never flinches on ammonia without a calibrated seneye telling us to makes you free to apply the real changes your tank needs. if you worked to suppress ammonia here, you'd bleach out those corals eventually.

if in fact you wanted to add ammonia into this tank, I would agree, based on these threads:




your tank can be benefitted by ammonia, there's no backup, it's right there on file above via seneye.

*our stepped up coral feeding plan increases nitrate too. the reason those folks were adding ammonia above, to running reefs, knowing that all reefs handle extra ammonia quickly, is because that too boosts nitrogen.

same ends. your tank is handling ammonia fine. the spin tester is a glorified API reader.

don't run any form of nitrate or phosphate removal on this system during the exercise routine. food in, bulk water changes only.
Think a skimmer could help?
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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I thought his idea of verifying salinity was excellent. we should hold at that phase until verified and if it's low, bump it up to .025 slowly I think corals like that better, just my opinion using my own old nano. Your bioload isn't huge to require such a skimmer if there isn't one now. My tank has no skimmer and grows corals to the degree I throw them out/so I can't strongly relate skimming to coral growth though you might can use one to offset increased feeding of quality diverse reef feed/that skimmer will help with organics export along with stepped up water changes.

you should also get a swingarm hydrometer and make sure there are no bubbles on it; what does a reading from the 1999 device say/ it's what I use. given all the trip ups of the fancy gear I sometimes forget we live in a pc/calibration world it's not always just thumps nowadays lol.

my own salinity gets messed up occasionally and it really really affects my corals, fully closed for days until corrected but that's me being lazy to add denser water back in/Ill get around to it, I know what it takes to fix that condition when I mix up my change water too low occasionally.

I think it sounds plausible that many coral closed issues nowadays can be salinity issues, I forget to check on that.
 
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I thought his idea of verifying salinity was excellent. we should hold at that phase until verified and if it's low, bump it up to .025 slowly I think corals like that better, just my opinion using my own old nano. Your bioload isn't huge to require such a skimmer if there isn't one now. My tank has no skimmer and grows corals to the degree I throw them out/so I can't strongly relate skimming to coral growth though you might can use one to offset increased feeding of quality diverse reef feed/that skimmer will help with organics export along with stepped up water changes.

you should also get a swingarm hydrometer and make sure there are no bubbles on it; what does a reading from the 1999 device say/ it's what I use. given all the trip ups of the fancy gear I sometimes forget we live in a pc/calibration world it's not always just thumps nowadays lol.
I have been using the microbubble technique, maybe it could have been ticking my corals off. Which basically a small airstone infrotn of my return pump and it pumps bubbles through my display causing my water to get s bit clearer. And i heard it helps boost ph
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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hey irony: my reef is ran off a huge airstone only I use that same method :)

if its physical irritation that's no harm too, harmless to remove the bubbler and try normal currents. that way certainly is not lethal though, my nano has been on bubbles as the exclusive current/no pumps/because I was doing a cheap setup/ for sixteen straight years.

you dont need cycling bacteria, that implies there's an ammonia issue. I'm exiting the thread, stated what will work. I am not doing cycle battles today/ammonia is not the issue here/am out. I won't log this in our study threads, I only want the next example to be one we fix using updated cycling science.
 
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hey irony: my reef is ran off a huge airstone only I use that same method :)

if its physical irritation that's no harm too, harmless to remove the bubbler and try normal currents. that way certainly is not lethal though, my nano has been on bubbles as the exclusive current/no pumps/because I was doing a cheap setup/ for sixteen straight years.

you dont need cycling bacteria, that implies there's an ammonia issue. I'm exiting the thread, stated what will work. I am not doing cycle battles today/ammonia is not the issue here/am out. I won't log this in our study threads, I only want the next example to be one we fix using updated cycling science.
Im going to retest water today and take a picture of my revospin when its done. But i wont be taking and putting nitrifying bacteria in my tank.
 
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hey irony: my reef is ran off a huge airstone only I use that same method :)

if its physical irritation that's no harm too, harmless to remove the bubbler and try normal currents. that way certainly is not lethal though, my nano has been on bubbles as the exclusive current/no pumps/because I was doing a cheap setup/ for sixteen straight years.

you dont need cycling bacteria, that implies there's an ammonia issue. I'm exiting the thread, stated what will work. I am not doing cycle battles today/ammonia is not the issue here/am out. I won't log this in our study threads, I only want the next example to be one we fix using updated cycling science.
Type the steps out you think i should take.
 

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I have a question about Ammonia detoxifying products. From what I have read on the product web pages and in forums. Adding Ammonia detoxifyers to the water will make the ammonia non toxic, but will not remove it , so there is still ammonia in the tank. This means the next time you do an ammonia test it will show positive for ammonia !! So how do you know if the ammonia it is detecting is harmless, or new toxic ammonia, otherwise you detoxify, test and get a high reading, assume toxic ammonia, treat the water, test another day and get a high ammonia reading, assume it is toxic, treat water....... its a never ending circle, which if the ammonia is detoxified is not necessary.
And, it only detoxifies for 24 hours... Then the ammonia becomes toxic again. You need a test that only reads NH3 (bad), not NH4 (less toxic).
 

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HAVE YOU EVER KEPT A RARE/UNCOMMON FISH, CORAL, OR INVERT? SHOW IT OFF IN THE THREAD!

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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