Removal of Potential Chloramines without an additional filter

livinlifeinBKK

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So someone mentioned that although the RODI filter I use might reduce TDS just fine, chloramines almost certainly make it through if theyre present. I havent personally had an issue with strange deaths of fish or even microfaunal invertebrates like copepods but im a little concerned now. How should I ensure the water is detoxified of chloramine? I read one of your articles on the topic but the attachment filter id need would be very expensive due to import fees and Im not sure if prime of similar products can be trusted despite them containing some amount of sodium thiosulfate. I could actually get pure sodium thiosulfate here but would that be sage in my now filled tank? Im taking this breeding endeavor very seriously actually. Its nkt for money or anything like tht, more just personal desire.
Thank you for your help.
 

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livinlifeinBKK

livinlifeinBKK

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I
There are specific carbon filters, Granular Activated Carbon (GAC), that are used for this purpose.


I would put one of these after your sediment filter on your RODI setup.
I know they sell them on Amazon but with import taxes it would be fairly expensive...i was thinking @Randy Holmes-Farley or @taricha might know of a chemical like sodium thiosulfate that I could get easily here which would eliminate chloramines in the tank already set up. I designed it as a breeding tank fir Greissinger Gobies and if im lucky enough to have them spawn the larvae will be extremely sensitive I would assume.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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So someone mentioned that although the RODI filter I use might reduce TDS just fine, chloramines almost certainly make it through if theyre present. I havent personally had an issue with strange deaths of fish or even microfaunal invertebrates like copepods but im a little concerned now. How should I ensure the water is detoxified of chloramine? I read one of your articles on the topic but the attachment filter id need would be very expensive due to import fees and Im not sure if prime of similar products can be trusted despite them containing some amount of sodium thiosulfate. I could actually get pure sodium thiosulfate here but would that be sage in my now filled tank? Im taking this breeding endeavor very seriously actually. Its nkt for money or anything like tht, more just personal desire.
Thank you for your help.

That is not my experience, and I 100% would not assume chloramine gets through an ro/di unless you measure it doing so.
 
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livinlifeinBKK

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That is not my experience, and I 100% would not assume chloramine gets through an ro/di unless you measure it doing so.
I have the RO Buddy...(it's a 4 stage RODI and they do mention that it doesnt stop chloramines, only chlorine). I havent had an issue before with copepods or fish dying but im actually trying to breed Greissinger Gobies in this tank I just set up...should I get the additional filter mentioned above just to be safe since larvae or eggs might be extra sensitive? I highly valie your opinion on this topic.
 

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I have the RO Buddy...(it's a 4 stage RODI and they do mention that it doesnt stop chloramines, only chlorine). I havent had an issue before with copepods or fish dying but im actually trying to breed Greissinger Gobies in this tank I just set up...should I get the additional filter mentioned above just to be safe since larvae or eggs might be extra sensitive? I highly valie your opinion on this topic.

I’d get a cheap chlorine kit and see if there is an issue before trying to change anything. Chloramine shows up in a chlorine test.
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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What value should I view as acceptable on a cheap test? Are test strips or colorimetric better in your opinion?

I don’t know which is better. I’d test the tap water then the product water and look for the difference. If the product is substantial, then test tank water. It gets highly diluted when used for top off.
 

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I have a typhoon plus rodi system from airwaterice.com that has a special carbon they say is for chloramines. Even if the membrane is catching them I was under the impression chlorine and I'd imagine chloramines as well are not good for the membrane. I just use a pool strip test from time to to time that has free and total chlorine to verify nothing is getting through.
 

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FWIW, we tested many systems here and found nearly all removed chloramine without special carbon blocks.

Chloramine and the Reef Aquarium - Reefkeeping.com

Lessons Learned and Suggestions:

1.
Most RO/DI systems seem capable of removing chloramine adequately for aquarists.
2.
The carbon cartridge may become less useful over time, and it is possible that the chloramine removal effectiveness of a system may be lost before the DI appears to need changing.
3.
Cheap sediment cartridges may expose the carbon cartridge to unnecessary fouling, which may permit chloramine to pass through the system. Cartridges should be replaced as soon as the pressure drops significantly, even if RO/DI water is still being produced at a reasonable rate or purity as measured by total dissolved solids.
4.
Testing for chlorine and chloramine is easy, so any concern is easily reconciled.
5.
One Hach kit provides several dozen test results. Our local Boston Club bought some kits and had a "water testing day." The kits can also become part of the "library" of a local club for aquarists to use once in a while to see if their systems are functioning. That way, the cost to each aquarist is minimal.
 
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livinlifeinBKK

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FWIW, we tested many systems here and found nearly all removed chloramine without special carbon blocks.

Chloramine and the Reef Aquarium - Reefkeeping.com

Lessons Learned and Suggestions:

1.
Most RO/DI systems seem capable of removing chloramine adequately for aquarists.
2.
The carbon cartridge may become less useful over time, and it is possible that the chloramine removal effectiveness of a system may be lost before the DI appears to need changing.
3.
Cheap sediment cartridges may expose the carbon cartridge to unnecessary fouling, which may permit chloramine to pass through the system. Cartridges should be replaced as soon as the pressure drops significantly, even if RO/DI water is still being produced at a reasonable rate or purity as measured by total dissolved solids.
4.
Testing for chlorine and chloramine is easy, so any concern is easily reconciled.
5.
One Hach kit provides several dozen test results. Our local Boston Club bought some kits and had a "water testing day." The kits can also become part of the "library" of a local club for aquarists to use once in a while to see if their systems are functioning. That way, the cost to each aquarist is minimal.
That does give me some peace of mind and since the cartridges are brand new it would be even less likely thagmt chlorine or chloramines made it through in any dangerous concentration.
 
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livinlifeinBKK

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FWIW, we tested many systems here and found nearly all removed chloramine without special carbon blocks.

Chloramine and the Reef Aquarium - Reefkeeping.com

Lessons Learned and Suggestions:

1.
Most RO/DI systems seem capable of removing chloramine adequately for aquarists.
2.
The carbon cartridge may become less useful over time, and it is possible that the chloramine removal effectiveness of a system may be lost before the DI appears to need changing.
3.
Cheap sediment cartridges may expose the carbon cartridge to unnecessary fouling, which may permit chloramine to pass through the system. Cartridges should be replaced as soon as the pressure drops significantly, even if RO/DI water is still being produced at a reasonable rate or purity as measured by total dissolved solids.
4.
Testing for chlorine and chloramine is easy, so any concern is easily reconciled.
5.
One Hach kit provides several dozen test results. Our local Boston Club bought some kits and had a "water testing day." The kits can also become part of the "library" of a local club for aquarists to use once in a while to see if their systems are functioning. That way, the cost to each aquarist is minimal.
I actually found a probe that tests several parameters including FAC. The lowest readimg it can give is 0.1 ppm...is that low enough to be practically nonexistant?
 
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livinlifeinBKK

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@Randy Holmes-Farley Is an FAC probe sufficient for detection of chloramines? Im unsure if my new probe that measures Free Active Chlorine can detect chloramines or not...I'm no chemist haha
 

Randy Holmes-Farley

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I actually found a probe that tests several parameters including FAC. The lowest readimg it can give is 0.1 ppm...is that low enough to be practically nonexistant?

I’m not familiar with the breadth of chemical detected with it, but 0.1 ppm is marginal, IMO.
 

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Will an FAC probe measure chloramines like the Hach kit? Also I cant seem to find any kits that measure lower than 0.1 (inexpensive probe or strips).
This is probably a better question for the probe manufacturer. They should know what their equipment's limits are. :)
 
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