Refugium Lighting Advice from AI

Salt_ee

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Hi all! I have a Landen 26g AIO and I recently added IM custom media caddy fuge in the middle chamber which almost fits perfectly. I have a copepod hotel/motel/holiday inn ;) on the bottom rack and above it have a ball of chaeto powered for 12 hours by a JBJ 4W white light. It was growing some chaeto for a week, however was not really dropping my nutrients much and due to the fact that I had to use the magnet and have it hang on the back tinted panel I was barely getting par levels of 50. I decided to go with a submersible full spectrum hygger 6W so I can stick it inside the chamber/in front of the caddy facing the back. It is on a 12hr wifi plug on alternate from my main display. I believe there are 5-6 intensity levels on full spectrum and I am starting it somewhat easy to see how it goes - par ~ 150 mid caddy. I am seeing all kinds of mixed opinions on this topic and all reef related topics really. I will probably be hung for what I am about to say. I am leaving for the FL keys tomorrow for 13 days and due to my nutrients running somewhat on the higher side and climbing I am somewhat desperate to remedy the situation so my wifey doesn't have to go through a reefing bootcamp FaceTime session with me. I just installed and set schedules and smart plugs/strips/battery UPS (live in FL) plus EcoFlow Delta 2 2700W on standby if all hell breaks loose. Back to the point.. I turned to GPT-4 for answers and here is what I asked and it's response. Don't laugh, I use on the regular and seems like the nicer I am, the better responses I get. LOL.
Seems legit - thoughts?

Me: Howdy! Hope you are in the mood to provide me with some much needed advice and thanks in advance! I have a Landen 26g AIO saltwater reef tank and running a refugium in the middle chamber. I have a full spectrum hygger 6w LED light which is submersible and I can adjust the par levels from 50-600. In your opinion what color should I be running in my refugium, at what par level and what schedule to grow healthy chaeto and reduce nutrients, increase Ph and prevent nuisance algae etc

GPT-4:
Howdy! For growing healthy Chaetomorpha (chaeto) in your refugium and achieving your goals of nutrient reduction, pH increase, and preventing nuisance algae, here are some recommendations:

1. **Lighting Color:**
- Use a full spectrum that is heavy in the red and blue wavelengths. A combination of these will promote healthy plant growth. Look for around 6500K to 7000K if you have control over the color temperature.

2. **PAR Levels:**
- Aim for a PAR level between 100-200. This is generally sufficient for chaeto growth without being excessive.

3. **Lighting Schedule:**
- Run the refugium light on a reverse light cycle from your main tank lights, usually 12 hours on, 12 hours off. This helps stabilize pH levels by providing oxygen and consuming CO2 at night.
- If you're experiencing high nutrient levels, you might extend the light cycle slightly to 14 hours.

4. **Additional Tips:**
- Ensure good water flow in the refugium to prevent detritus buildup and improve nutrient uptake.
- Regularly harvest the chaeto to encourage new growth and maximize nutrient export.

Adjust these parameters based on how your specific setup responds. Every tank is different, so monitoring and tweaking will help you find the perfect balance.
 

Solo McReefer

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Seems to me that GPT4 knows something about reefing

For cheato, even a regular household bulb will work

There have been far far more chaeto(or any macro alage) grown under a 60 or 100 watt bulb and chicken brooder light than hygger submersible lights

1000004175.jpg



I can't help you with the wifey

Other than one could leave a ton of new salt water made and ready to go, for daily water changes

Any other methods for nutrient reduction would probably be too complicated for a "non reefing other person".

Still seems like a good recipe for familial discord

Lastly, if the timer on that light is like all the timers on all the grow lights I've bought over the years, as soon as it loses power, the timer drops out. And stays off until reprogrammed
 
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Salt_ee

Salt_ee

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Seems to me that GPT4 knows something about reefing

For cheato, even a regular household bulb will work

There have been far far more chaeto(or any macro alage) grown under a 60 or 100 watt bulb and chicken brooder light than hygger submersible lights

1000004175.jpg



I can't help you with the wifey

Other than one could leave a ton of new salt water made and ready to go, for daily water changes

Any other methods for nutrient reduction would probably be too complicated for a "non reefing other person".

Still seems like a good recipe for familial discord

Lastly, if the timer on that light is like all the timers on all the grow lights I've bought over the years, as soon as it loses power, the timer drops out. And stays off until reprogrammed
I have 5-6g of ready saltwater mix and another 2g or RODI for the ATO tank. I am about to do a 5g WC so I think it will be good to go! I don't use the timer on the hygger light, I have it plugged into a smart switch which I scheduled for alternate 12hrs of my DT lighting. It is working flawlessly, but if not I can easily turn on and off myself remotely. I also have a Nest cam setup so I can monitor everything without bothering the wifey! Basically I am just having her feed every other day with frozen and freeze dry mysis, nori for the cowfish. I have the auto feeder setup as well for pellets before lights out.
 

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