- Joined
- Oct 1, 2019
- Messages
- 17
- Reaction score
- 10
Hello All,
I've had a few tanks in the past but all were FOWLR and they were more than a decade ago. Currently I have a 24 gallon Aquatop AIO running that was supposed to be a QT tank for my 100 gallon Cadlights build I had started. I started the stand and started getting equipment and then corona virus occurred. So my financial situation is a little different, but my 24 has too much in it so I needed something bigger faster than I knew I'd be able to get the Cadlights up.
Enter the used Red Sea Max 250 (The Original Max 250). I found this tank locally and was able to negotiate with the owner on pricing so I picked it up (with help, this thing weighs a ton). I did research AFTER buying of course and found that people encounter heat issues and run chillers often with this tank. I did not want to buy a chiller so I thought about what to do.
First I figured, let me leak test this beast:
The good news is she holds water. The bad news is after a couple of days running without a heater in it, the water did start to get pretty warm on its own. I also found that the return pump on the left side needed a new impeller as did the skimmer pump.
I decided to tackle the lighting first so I will cover that portion in this initial thread post. I had kessils on hand so I decided to use them. My amazing LFS had kessil mounting arms in stock so I picked them up and decided to remove the lid and mount them.
Here are some basic pictures of the tank with two kessil 360we mounted and being controlled by the spectral controller:
No this is not my intended aquascape pictured.
The kessils have to be mounted on the rear which has a large plastic piece that holds the standard t5 lid in place. I didnt like the way the mounts sat on that plastic and wanted some more options for where to space the lights out. The plastic in the back appears to provide no structural bracing to the tank and I found others who had removed it so i decided to do the same.
If you want to do this to one of these tanks get a 10" hacksaw with an ergonomic handle. I used a dremel with a sander on it to do some finishing and then hand sanded with 220 grit to get everything even and smooth. Pretty happy with the results so far.
Still to come in this build:
DC pumps being added, Skimmer, rock cutting, aquascaping, media rack, ato, and probably some things I havent even thought of. Another update soon! Thanks for browsing.
I've had a few tanks in the past but all were FOWLR and they were more than a decade ago. Currently I have a 24 gallon Aquatop AIO running that was supposed to be a QT tank for my 100 gallon Cadlights build I had started. I started the stand and started getting equipment and then corona virus occurred. So my financial situation is a little different, but my 24 has too much in it so I needed something bigger faster than I knew I'd be able to get the Cadlights up.
Enter the used Red Sea Max 250 (The Original Max 250). I found this tank locally and was able to negotiate with the owner on pricing so I picked it up (with help, this thing weighs a ton). I did research AFTER buying of course and found that people encounter heat issues and run chillers often with this tank. I did not want to buy a chiller so I thought about what to do.
First I figured, let me leak test this beast:
The good news is she holds water. The bad news is after a couple of days running without a heater in it, the water did start to get pretty warm on its own. I also found that the return pump on the left side needed a new impeller as did the skimmer pump.
I decided to tackle the lighting first so I will cover that portion in this initial thread post. I had kessils on hand so I decided to use them. My amazing LFS had kessil mounting arms in stock so I picked them up and decided to remove the lid and mount them.
Here are some basic pictures of the tank with two kessil 360we mounted and being controlled by the spectral controller:
No this is not my intended aquascape pictured.
The kessils have to be mounted on the rear which has a large plastic piece that holds the standard t5 lid in place. I didnt like the way the mounts sat on that plastic and wanted some more options for where to space the lights out. The plastic in the back appears to provide no structural bracing to the tank and I found others who had removed it so i decided to do the same.
If you want to do this to one of these tanks get a 10" hacksaw with an ergonomic handle. I used a dremel with a sander on it to do some finishing and then hand sanded with 220 grit to get everything even and smooth. Pretty happy with the results so far.
Still to come in this build:
DC pumps being added, Skimmer, rock cutting, aquascaping, media rack, ato, and probably some things I havent even thought of. Another update soon! Thanks for browsing.