rdirtytwo's Landen 60P (26.23g) all-in-one

I will preface this build thread by saying that I have been in the reef keeping hobby for just over a year now, but I've been keeping freshwater planted tanks for many years before. This will be my second reef build. Hopefully things go smoother with the knowledge I've gained so far.

Tank specs:
•23.6W x 17.7D x 15.8H in (60x45x40cm)
•8mm glass thickness, low iron
•Includes their BIOSMO 700 Pump (185gph) with sine wave controller. I have it currently set on max flow, wave mode. We'll see if we need to upgrade that later.

03/23/24:
Cabinet assembled and tank set up. Leak tested inside (oops) and no issues after 24 hours. My wife loves her phalaenopsis orchids in the reflection.


03/26/24:
Completed the aquascape with dry base rocks that I broke using a hammer to give character. At this point I thought I was going to do a bare bottom tank. I added approximately 2lb of live rubble and a filter pad from my other nano tank to the rear compartment of this tank to help seed beneficial bacteria.


03/29/24:
I changed my mind and decided I wanted sand dwellers so I added a 20lb bag of CaribSea AragAlive Special Grade. I probably didn't need the AragAlive version, but I got a good deal on it. I put a piece of filter pad on the intake of an extra water pump to help clear the particulates out of the water after adding sand. It cleared up in 12-18 hours.

For giggles, I threw on one of my wife's extra 24" indoor plant grow light with W,B,R channels using only Blue (450nm) to see how it would look. Not bad for a cheap home depot 19w light.


04/25/24:
I added a Pajama Cardinal as my first fish about a week ago after doing my first big water change.

04/26/24:
I added a Nero 3 for flow. Does anyone have any recommended settings for intensity/pattern for a 24" tank? My plans for this tank will be mixed LPS and SPS later when it matures. I figure I'll set myself up with a good wavemaker now, rather than later. I really like the functionality and customizability on the MyAi flow app so far.

 

[rdirtytwo]

How are your nitrates and phosphates in this tank? I have the same tank and there are two areas in the sump chambers that are nutrient traps and hard to clean.

What kind of mechanical filtration are you using? I have a nano protein skimmer in the first return chamber, and I only use filter floss in the middle chamber. I bought a 10ft roll of it and I just cut it to match the 2nd chamber dimensions and let it waterfall onto it. During weekly water changes, about half of the water I drain from the back, stirred up and sucked out with a gravel vac. My nitrates haven't gotten higher than 20 from when I started using the protein skimmer. Phosphates is usually around 0.1 but I use reef roids 2-3x a week so it usually doesn't go lower than that.

Also how high is your water level in the rear chambers, in relation to the slots in the rear?

 

[rdirtytwo]

So satisfying when it all starts coming together, keep up the good work.

Thank you, I really appreciate it.

 

[cnjcpb]

What kind of mechanical filtration are you using? I have a nano protein skimmer in the first return chamber, and I only use filter floss in the middle chamber. I bought a 10ft roll of it and I just cut it to match the 2nd chamber dimensions and let it waterfall onto it. During weekly water changes, about half of the water I drain from the back, stirred up and sucked out with a gravel vac. My nitrates haven't gotten higher than 20 from when I started using the protein skimmer. Phosphates is usually around 0.1 but I use reef roids 2-3x a week so it usually doesn't go lower than that.

Also how high is your water level in the rear chambers, in relation to the slots in the rear

What kind of mechanical filtration are you using? I have a nano protein skimmer in the first return chamber, and I only use filter floss in the middle chamber. I bought a 10ft roll of it and I just cut it to match the 2nd chamber dimensions and let it waterfall onto it. During weekly water changes, about half of the water I drain from the back, stirred up and sucked out with a gravel vac. My nitrates haven't gotten higher than 20 from when I started using the protein skimmer. Phosphates is usually around 0.1 but I use reef roids 2-3x a week so it usually doesn't go lower than that.

Also how high is your water level in the rear chambers, in relation to the slots in the rear?

I have a nano protein skimmer in first chamber with a sponge running the height of the glass that separates compartments. I also have a homemade media chamber in the second chamber with 3 layers. Made it from egg crate. Top layer is another sponge cut to size with filter floss pad material like you use. Second layer is Red Sea carbon in a bag, third layer is ceramic media that came with the tank. Third chamber is heater and return. I usually run water level about 1/4” below the dividers. My nitrates are staying steady around 10-20. I believe my Po4 is around .1 - .2. I need to order a Hanna ULR. I don’t trust API. however, I’ve been checking my API results with my LFS disk tester and they are usually very close. Haven’t been able to confirm my results in a while though because LFS machine is down. I am currently battling ostreo dino with UV. Most of it is gone, but the last 10% is stubborn.

 

[cnjcpb]

I have a nano protein skimmer in first chamber with a sponge running the height of the glass that separates compartments. I also have a homemade media chamber in the second chamber with 3 layers. Made it from egg crate. Top layer is another sponge cut to size with filter floss pad material like you use. Second layer is Red Sea carbon in a bag, third layer is ceramic media that came with the tank. Third chamber is heater and return. I usually run water level about 1/4” below the dividers. My nitrates are staying steady around 10-20. I believe my Po4 is around .1 - .2. I need to order a Hanna ULR. I don’t trust API. however, I’ve been checking my API results with my LFS disk tester and they are usually very close. Haven’t been able to confirm my results in a while though because LFS machine is down. I am currently battling ostreo dino with UV. Most of it is gone, but the last 10% is stubborn.

You can see the UV pump hanging in the display to treat the Dino.

 

[rdirtytwo]

I have a nano protein skimmer in first chamber with a sponge running the height of the glass that separates compartments. I also have a homemade media chamber in the second chamber with 3 layers. Made it from egg crate. Top layer is another sponge cut to size with filter floss pad material like you use. Second layer is Red Sea carbon in a bag, third layer is ceramic media that came with the tank. Third chamber is heater and return. I usually run water level about 1/4” below the dividers. My nitrates are staying steady around 10-20. I believe my Po4 is around .1 - .2. I need to order a Hanna ULR. I don’t trust API. however, I’ve been checking my API results with my LFS disk tester and they are usually very close. Haven’t been able to confirm my results in a while though because LFS machine is down. I am currently battling ostreo dino with UV. Most of it is gone, but the last 10% is stubborn.

I have read that coarse sponges that come with those retrofit media chambers (I know you said yours is diy, so I'm not sure if you're using those kind of sponges) are detritus traps and could cause issues with nutrients. I have the heater and pump only in the third compartment as well. It seems like our nutrients are about the same, even with nano skimmers.

When I had a battle with those dinos in my pico, it was because of ultra low/0 nutrients. UV helped some, but what really did it for me was dosing h2o2 (1ml/10g lights off) for a week and dosing beneficial bacteria. What's the gph on that pump for the UV?

 

[cnjcpb]

I have read that coarse sponges that come with those retrofit media chambers (I know you said yours is diy, so I'm not sure if you're using those kind of sponges) are detritus traps and could cause issues with nutrients. I have the heater and pump only in the third compartment as well. It seems like our nutrients are about the same, even with nano skimmers.

When I had a battle with those dinos in my pico, it was because of ultra low/0 nutrients. UV helped some, but what really did it for me was dosing h2o2 (1ml/10g lights off) for a week and dosing beneficial bacteria. What's the gph on that pump for the UV?

I’m running the pump at what I’m assuming is around 55-60 gph. It’s the pump that came with the tank. I’m running it on setting # 3. My math came out to about 18.5 gph per setting speed. It’s a 9Watt UV. It’s killed most of it, but the last 10% or so is being super stubborn. Yes, my nutrients bottomed out when I decided to run chemipure elite. it’s been a journey as I’m new to the hobby, but I’ve learned a ton about reefing due to this battle.

 

[rdirtytwo]

I’m running the pump at what I’m assuming is around 55-60 gph. It’s the pump that came with the tank. I’m running it on setting # 3. My math came out to about 18.5 gph per setting speed. It’s a 9Watt UV. It’s killed most of it, but the last 10% or so is being super stubborn. Yes, my nutrients bottomed out when I decided to run chemipure elite. it’s been a journey as I’m new to the hobby, but I’ve learned a ton about reefing due to this battle.

Ah, I see. That's exactly what happened with my pico. I ran ChemiPure Elite too long and bam, dinos. I haven't used it since, nor felt like I actually needed it in the last year. Since you got your nutrients >0 I'm sure you'll get through it soon enough. How long has it been?

 

[rdirtytwo]

07/10/24:
I tested parameters in preparation for my shipment of corals on 07/11/24.

1.026 salinity
8.9 dKh
450 Ca
1450 Mag
10-15 No3 (between 10-20 on Salifert)
0.1 Po4
78° F

Currently dealing with some hair algae. I figured it was caused by uneaten pellets because I'd see small clusters on the sandbed. The protein skimmer is running 12 hours a day. I have since switched to exclusively frozen foods and light gravel vac weekly and it isn't returning as quickly.

 

[rdirtytwo]

3 new acro pieces and a yellowish goniopora. I'm glad they did well through overnight shipping in 104° weather in Southern California. Thanks @AquaSD!

 

[majority_rules]

I love your build, and I'm very jealous of your success with this tank. I think mine is cursed. I just rearranged the back chambers as I can't get my ammonia down. I now have my diy media basket in chamber one, chaeto and heater in chamber 2, and my protein skimmer in the third chamber with the ATO sensor. I don't think my media basket was catching much detritus in the second chamber. I had my protein skimmer in chamber 1. I just vacuumed out so much gunk from chambers 1 and 2. Do you happen to know the exact dimensions of each chamber? I need to make a different diy media basket since chamber one is wider and taller. I can't easily move my tank to get the dimensions. Keep the updates coming!

 

[rdirtytwo]

I love your build, and I'm very jealous of your success with this tank. I think mine is cursed. I just rearranged the back chambers as I can't get my ammonia down. I now have my diy media basket in chamber one, chaeto and heater in chamber 2, and my protein skimmer in the third chamber with the ATO sensor. I don't think my media basket was catching much detritus in the second chamber. I had my protein skimmer in chamber 1. I just vacuumed out so much gunk from chambers 1 and 2. Do you happen to know the exact dimensions of each chamber? I need to make a different diy media basket since chamber one is wider and taller. I can't easily move my tank to get the dimensions. Keep the updates coming!

Thank you for the kind words! How much ammonia are you finding in your testing? There shouldn't be any significant amount of ammonia in a cycled tank. I don't use a media basket in my chambers, I just stuff it with filter floss and change it out every week. I do find that there seems to be a good amount of detritus in the rear chambers, but I always make it a habit to suck out a gallon or two from the rear when I do my water change and that has been helping with the detritus. Chamber 1 is my nano protein skimmer and larger piece of filter floss towards the right divider. Smaller filter floss in middle chamber. Lastly, heater, ATO, and return pump in last chamber.

Here's the measurements of the rear chambers. It should be 99% accurate.

 

[rdirtytwo]

I ordered a VBR Aqua par meter from Amazon during the Prime Day sales and I will finally be testing the Smatfarm G6 140w LEDs par and mapping the results this weekend when I receive it.

Side note:
SSC Acro is looking good 1 week later. (recent photo on the right of collage)

 

[Gumbies R Us]

I ordered a VBR Aqua par meter from Amazon during the Prime Day sales and I will finally be testing the Smatfarm G6 140w LEDs par and mapping the results this weekend when I receive it.

Side note:
SSC Acro is looking good 1 week later. (recent photo on the right of collage)

Great looking acro!

 

[majority_rules]

Thank you for the kind words! How much ammonia are you finding in your testing? There shouldn't be any significant amount of ammonia in a cycled tank. I don't use a media basket in my chambers, I just stuff it with filter floss and change it out every week. I do find that there seems to be a good amount of detritus in the rear chambers, but I always make it a habit to suck out a gallon or two from the rear when I do my water change and that has been helping with the detritus. Chamber 1 is my nano protein skimmer and larger piece of filter floss towards the right divider. Smaller filter floss in middle chamber. Lastly, heater, ATO, and return pump in last chamber.

Here's the measurements of the rear chambers. It should be 99% accurate.

Thank you so much for the dimensions. This helps so much!! My ammonia goes from 2-8. If I use Ammolock it goes to 0. I've been doing a 5 gallon water change every other day, and yesterday I did 15 gallons. The ammonia was back up to 8 this morning. The tank was set up in October last year, but I did recently take out the old rock and put new ones in. They were covered in lyngbia and I was tired of it. I have the ceramic bio balls in the back the whole time so I was thinking with that and the sand I wouldn't have any issues swapping the rock out. I'm using AquaForest Hybrid salt. Whenever I do a water change I have a few days of a bacterial bloom. I'm wondering the constant water changes are reintroducing bacteria to the tank which at some point just dies and then keeps spiking the ammonia. I do have the IM uv sterilizer, but who knows if that thing even works. My pH is also bottoming out. It's currently at 7.26. I can't keep adding any dKH because it's already too high so I just bought some kalk. I'm pretty sure I'm going to lose all of the corals before I get things stabilized again. Thanks again for the dimensions!!

 

[majority_rules]

I ordered a VBR Aqua par meter from Amazon during the Prime Day sales and I will finally be testing the Smatfarm G6 140w LEDs par and mapping the results this weekend when I receive it.

Side note:
SSC Acro is looking good 1 week later. (recent photo on the right of collage)

It's gorgeous! Have you experienced any coral bleaching with your light?

 

[rdirtytwo]

Great looking acro!

Thank you!

 

[rdirtytwo]

Thank you so much for the dimensions. This helps so much!! My ammonia goes from 2-8. If I use Ammolock it goes to 0. I've been doing a 5 gallon water change every other day, and yesterday I did 15 gallons. The ammonia was back up to 8 this morning. The tank was set up in October last year, but I did recently take out the old rock and put new ones in. They were covered in lyngbia and I was tired of it. I have the ceramic bio balls in the back the whole time so I was thinking with that and the sand I wouldn't have any issues swapping the rock out. I'm using AquaForest Hybrid salt. Whenever I do a water change I have a few days of a bacterial bloom. I'm wondering the constant water changes are reintroducing bacteria to the tank which at some point just dies and then keeps spiking the ammonia. I do have the IM uv sterilizer, but who knows if that thing even works. My pH is also bottoming out. It's currently at 7.26. I can't keep adding any dKH because it's already too high so I just bought some kalk. I'm pretty sure I'm going to lose all of the corals before I get things stabilized again. Thanks again for the dimensions!!

You're welcome. Maybe you caused a mini cycle to start when you swapped the rocks in. Were the new rocks you put in dry? I'm not sure how to help you with the ammonia situation, sorry! Do you have any livestock in your tank? It's bizarre that you're having bacteria blooms after water changes while using UV. Sorry I couldn't be much help on this topic.

 

[rdirtytwo]

It's gorgeous! Have you experienced any coral bleaching with your light?

I actually have not experienced any bleaching. Well maybe at first when my nutrients nearly bottomed out. I noticed my cycloseris was becoming pale and the tentacles were becoming transparent.

Well I checked the par quickly today. My SPS were only receiving 150par and my sandbed in the center was receiving 80par. Over the course of the month I will be ramping up the lights to hit my target of 250 par at my lowest acro. When I have more time I will map out the par in the tank.

 

[rdirtytwo]

Bigger update this past weekend.

I got a 2nd AI Nero 3 to replace my ZKSJ mini wavemaker and I couldn't be happier. After messing with it, I've settled with setting up the 2nd as a child/slave with a 90° phase, using pulse at 30% on both pumps, 1 second on, 3 seconds off. Time will tell if I need to adjust, but things look good for now.

Using a PAR meter for the first time has been really eye opening. All this time I have been under lighting both my systems, but most things have looked pretty good. I learned we can't always trust our eyes on brightness/par (well, maybe I'm not experienced enough). I don't have anything else to compare this PAR meter with, but I've read good reviews about the VBR Aqua meter from Amazon.

Keeping up with the routine, I did a 2.5g water change.

Here's a recent photo dump post water change towards the end of the light cycle. I've consolidated most corals that weren't doing well in my pico into this tank. I can't save them all, but some definitely look better.

 

[rdirtytwo]

I did a mid week parameters test to get a gauge on consumption.

Salinity: 1.026
Ca: 460
dKh: 8.6
Mag: 1460
Po4: 0.02
Nitrate: 5

All tested with Salifert test kits.
I feed 1 cube (split, throughout the day, alternating blister packs) daily for the fish.
I target feed my corals every other day with the same frozen foods, Benepets pellets, Benereef, or Reef Roids.

It seems my Nitrates and Po4 are being consumed OR I may possibly have false readings on the Po4 readings due to hair algae. I'm taking care of that, though. I pulled a female emerald crab and 2 turbo snails from my other tank to help out compete the hair algae and I'm already noticing a difference.

I think I'm going to convert my Fluval Flex 9g into a frag tank since I've pulled 98% of livestock from that tank already.