Questions from a first-timer

BilboB

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I set up a 55-gallon tank almost a year ago with the advice from my local fish store. I'm using a Forza canister filter system with a UV light. There's no ammonia or nitrite in my water, but the nitrate level is fairly high. The water density is 1.023. I only have fish and live rock, no coral.

My questions are:
1. Should I be doing water changes? So far all I've done is replace the evaporated water.
2. Do I need to use activated charcoal or Purigen to reduce the nitrate level? The Forza canister has sponges, ceramic substrate and these weird black balls, but no charcoal.
3. I've added quite a few snails to help with the brown algae that grows on the glass, but they all die after a few days - could that be due to the nitrates?
4. Should I change the UV light every year?

Thanks in advance,
Bilbo
 

PharmrJohn

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Well, water change advice varies with the individual. Are you using RODI water when you replace? What are your Nitrates at? And while a specific gravity of 1.023 is fine for fish, the goal is 1.026, just as an FYI. Carbon is not required. Some run it, some don't. In my old 90g, I ran carbon in the air vent of my skimmer overflow container to decrease bad odors. UV lights do need to be replaced, but in your case, I don't know the what the frequency is. In my house UV unit, I change it out yearly.

But in the end, how is your tank doing? Are you happy with it? Are your fish happy? And what are your goals for it?
 
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BilboB

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Thanks for replying. I use either distilled water or tap water with Prime. Not sure what the nitrates value is, since I'm using test strips. Yes, I'm a newb.

I'm somewhat happy with my tank - most of the fish I put in it do well. But all the snails died and some of the fish too, and I wish I knew why. Also, I put in 2 anemones and they're not nearly as open as they were in the store. Also, sand keeps accumulating on top of my live rock even though the intake tube is nowhere near the bottom of the tank.
 

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Thanks for replying. I use either distilled water or tap water with Prime. Not sure what the nitrates value is, since I'm using test strips. Yes, I'm a newb.

I'm somewhat happy with my tank - most of the fish I put in it do well. But all the snails died and some of the fish too, and I wish I knew why. Also, I put in 2 anemones and they're not nearly as open as they were in the store. Also, sand keeps accumulating on top of my live rock even though the intake tube is nowhere near the bottom of the tank.
Issue is tap water, using test strips. Salufert are good mid-level kits and RODI water. What are you using to test salinity? Remember you are keeping water. Get water correct and everything else falls into place in most cases. What light are you using?
 

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You should really invest in proper test kits if you want to stick in the hobby, thats our bread and butter. Not API, get salifert or hanna. Nitrates at a certain level can affect livestock health, so its our responsibility to keep on top of it. Your filtration system does not include any way to remove nitrates.

Its generally suggested to maintain 10% water change weekly. By testing you can get away with less frequent water changes but you are not testing.

I would guess that poor water quality killed the snails and causing your algae problem (since you've not changed the water in a year)

Its good you've discovered this site, you will get better advice and knowledge here than from your lfs.
 
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BilboB

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Issue is tap water, using test strips. Salufert are good mid-level kits and RODI water. What are you using to test salinity? Remember you are keeping water. Get water correct and everything else falls into place in most cases. What light are you using?
OK, I just bought a RODI 4-stage system. How do I use it - does it constantly filter the tank water, or do I keep it separate and use it to purify the water I add to the tank?
 
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BilboB

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You should really invest in proper test kits if you want to stick in the hobby, thats our bread and butter. Not API, get salifert or hanna. Nitrates at a certain level can affect livestock health, so its our responsibility to keep on top of it. Your filtration system does not include any way to remove nitrates.

Its generally suggested to maintain 10% water change weekly. By testing you can get away with less frequent water changes but you are not testing.

I would guess that poor water quality killed the snails and causing your algae problem (since you've not changed the water in a year)

Its good you've discovered this site, you will get better advice and knowledge here than from your lfs.
OK I bought the Salifert test kits, now I'm looking forward to testing...
 

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OK, I just bought a RODI 4-stage system. How do I use it - does it constantly filter the tank water, or do I keep it separate and use it to purify the water I add to the tank?
RODI is so you can make new water both to make new saltwater and to add fresh water when it evaporates from the tank
 
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BilboB

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Issue is tap water, using test strips. Salufert are good mid-level kits and RODI water. What are you using to test salinity? Remember you are keeping water. Get water correct and everything else falls into place in most cases. What light are you using?
I'm using the Webest 5-in-1 tester for salinity and pH
I'm not sure what light I'm using, but I rarely put it on since it promotes algae growth.
 

PharmrJohn

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OK, I just bought a RODI 4-stage system. How do I use it - does it constantly filter the tank water, or do I keep it separate and use it to purify the water I add to the tank?
OK I bought the Salifert test kits, now I'm looking forward to testing...
Excellent! You don't mess around do ya! Good job!
 

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I'm using the Webest 5-in-1 tester for salinity and pH
I'm not sure what light I'm using, but I rarely put it on since it promotes algae growth.
Salinity Refractometer for Seawater and Marine Fishkeeping Aquarium 0-100 PPT with Automatic Temperature Compensation https://a.co/d/dS6Okcd


Continuum Reagents Refractometer Calibration Standard – Seawater Reference for Calibration of Density Measuring Equipment, 60 ml https://a.co/d/cXyc8Nm

This is what you want
 
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BilboB

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BilboB

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Excellent! You don't mess around do ya! Good job!
OK, the Salifert test kit indicates that my nitrates are ~75ppm since the color was between the 2 highest colors. I guess I need to change the water, but how much? 50%?

Also, I'm getting a lot of salt creep around my lids - which lid(s) should I be using? I think I have a Tetra 55 gal tank, since there is a black bar across the middle, and I think I'm using H2Pro 24-inch lids.
 

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OK, I just bought a RODI 4-stage system. How do I use it - does it constantly filter the tank water, or do I keep it separate and use it to purify the water I add to the tank?

I have never ran a tank using a canister filter, how often do you maintain it? Might be wrong but it sounds like it would harbor nitrates and phosphates possible ammonia etc its likely the cause of the algae.

What are you using for flow?
 

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OK, the Salifert test kit indicates that my nitrates are ~75ppm since the color was between the 2 highest colors. I guess I need to change the water, but how much? 50%?

Also, I'm getting a lot of salt creep around my lids - which lid(s) should I be using? I think I have a Tetra 55 gal tank, since there is a black bar across the middle, and I think I'm using H2Pro 24-inch lids.
50% will be fine for a water change!
What’s your salinity level?
 
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BilboB

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I have never ran a tank using a canister filter, how often do you maintain it? Might be wrong but it sounds like it would harbor nitrates and phosphates possible ammonia etc its likely the cause of the algae.

What are you using for flow?
I rinse the multiple sponges 2-3x per year. I'm not sure what you mean by flow - the filter system sucks up the water and pushes it out through little holes in a long pipe. I also use an air bubbler, but nothing else.
 
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BilboB

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Here's a photo of part of my tank and lid. I don't like how there's sand and/or algae on my fake plants, and the lid has salt creep that's only 1 week old...
 

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PharmrJohn

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Gotta say, I'm not a big fan of fake plants in a SW tank. There is a chance of stuff leeching out of the plastics into your water column. If you like plant life in your tank, there are macro algaes that are better suited to the environment.
 
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BilboB

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RODI is so you can make new water both to make new saltwater and to add fresh water when it evaporates from the tank
OK, I just set up my RODI unit. Two questions - should the waste line flow be stronger than the clean line flow? And should I continue to add Prime when I add the RODI water to my tank?
 

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