Question about dosing and water changes.

EpisodeMnH

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So I am about to start dosing All For Reef on a doser, and I am trying to figure out how water changes will have to be adjusted. For more context, I have a 32.5 gallon tank, and do a 5 gallon water change weekly. I recently discovered that my refractometer was off, and while I thought I was running the tank at 1.025 salinity, it was more likely 1.023. Not good but also didn’t have any casualties, but obviously little to no coral growth as well. I use Reef Crystals which is known to mix high as far as Ca, Mag, and Alk, but since I was unknowingly mixing at low salinity, my levels are also lower than they should be. Thru water changes at the correct salinity, (1.026) it has been slowly raising levels, but at the bare minimum. For instance, Alk has been exactly .01 higher each week right after a water change. Meaning week 1, it was 6.2 after a water change, week 2 it was 6.3, week 3 it was 6.4, etc. Said water changes have been raising alkalinity by exactly 1.0 each week. So for example, after today’s water change, Alk was 6.6, and was 5.6 immediately beforehand. This has been consistent for a month now so on average, 1.0 is being used up per week. Calcium and Mag changes aren’t as heavy. I float around 400 Calcium and 1310-1320 Magnesium. So just slightly under optimal levels.

SO my question is, once I get my All For Reef dosage dialed in and I’m keeping 9.0 Alk, 420 Calc, and 1350 Mag consistently, if I know that 5 gallon water changes raise the Alk by 1.0, that would mean I’m then raising levels too high, which would also throw off my dosage on the doser because keeping it on the same dose would keep it too high. Obviously simplest answer is simply don’t do water changes and let strictly the dosing keep levels in check, but due to nutrient export and keeping nitrates and phosphates in check, water changes are sometimes necessary regardless. So this will be my first time incorporating dosing to the tank, and I’m wondering how you all go about working water changes into all that.
 
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So I am about to start dosing All For Reef on a doser, and I am trying to figure out how water changes will have to be adjusted. For more context, I have a 32.5 gallon tank, and do a 5 gallon water change weekly. I recently discovered that my refractometer was off, and while I thought I was running the tank at 1.025 salinity, it was more likely 1.023. Not good but also didn’t have any casualties, but obviously little to no coral growth as well. I use Reef Crystals which is known to mix high as far as Ca, Mag, and Alk, but since I was unknowingly mixing at low salinity, my levels are also lower than they should be. Thru water changes at the correct salinity, (1.026) it has been slowly raising levels, but at the bare minimum. For instance, Alk has been exactly .01 higher each week right after a water change. Meaning week 1, it was 6.2 after a water change, week 2 it was 6.3, week 3 it was 6.4, etc. Said water changes have been raising alkalinity by exactly 1.0 each week. So for example, after today’s water change, Alk was 6.6, and was 5.6 immediately beforehand. This has been consistent for a month now so on average, 1.0 is being used up per week. Calcium and Mag changes aren’t as heavy. I float around 400 Calcium and 1310-1320 Magnesium. So just slightly under optimal levels.

SO my question is, once I get my All For Reef dosage dialed in and I’m keeping 9.0 Alk, 420 Calc, and 1350 Mag consistently, if I know that 5 gallon water changes raise the Alk by 1.0, that would mean I’m then raising levels too high, which would also throw off my dosage on the doser because keeping it on the same dose would keep it too high. Obviously simplest answer is simply don’t do water changes and let strictly the dosing keep levels in check, but due to nutrient export and keeping nitrates and phosphates in check, water changes are sometimes necessary regardless. So this will be my first time incorporating dosing to the tank, and I’m wondering how you all go about working water changes into all that.
Possibly stop dosing until the alkalinity drops. Since you know the consumption rate to set the doser, use that information to determine approximately the length of time to stop dosing.
 

MrGisonni

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You can either get your alk up with water changes or dial up your AFR. I have a 30 gallon and right now pretty wells stocked with corals I add 3.5ml a day which keeps me at 8.6 DkH. My Ca is around 420. I add mg every couple of days to keep in around 1400 I use naturals seawater for water changes which tests at 7.6 DkH. I try to keep my weekly WC's around 10%
 
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EpisodeMnH

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You can either get your alk up with water changes or dial up your AFR. I have a 30 gallon and right now pretty wells stocked with corals I add 3.5ml a day which keeps me at 8.6 DkH. My Ca is around 420. I add mg every couple of days to keep in around 1400 I use naturals seawater for water changes which tests at 7.6 DkH. I try to keep my weekly WC's around 10%
So in general would you then say that it’s a good idea to switch to a lower nutrient salt mix if you’re dosing? For instance, I use Reef Crystals, but that’s known to mix high for all 3 between Alk, Ca, and Mag. I know regular purple Instant Ocean mixes lower. So let’s say I switch to that, and I’m consistently keeping the tank’s DkH at 9.0, but purple IO mixes at 7.0 DkH, (I don’t know the exact numbers, just spitballing hypotheticals.) if I then need to do a water change strictly for nutrient export, if I’m only replacing 5 out of 32.5 gallons with water that contains lower levels of Alk, Ca, and Mag, then hypothetically the increase would be minimal, if any at all, correct? Allowing me to simply continue my regular daily dosage without a hitch.
 

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This is why people like salt mixes that "mix up" close to there desired levels. I dont think that it's very important but it's a stability thing and every little bit helps. You could try regular IO, tropic Marin, red sea blue bucket. I usually lean toward IO because it produced in such a mass quantitie. I've read there's more instant ocean salt produced than all the others combined (public aquariums use it). It's cheap and consistent. This should help eliminate any spikes in your nutrients due to water changes. And sort of remove that variable.
 
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MrGisonni

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This is why people like salt mixes that "mix up" close to there desired levels. I dont think that it's very important but it's a stability thing and every little bit helps. You could try regular IO, tropic Marin, red sea blue bucket. I usually lean toward IO because it produced in such a mass quantitie. I've read there's more instant ocean salt produced than all the others combined (public aquariums use it). It's cheap and consistent. This should help eliminate any spikes in your nutrients due to water changes. And sort of remove that variable.
I am pretty sure SeaWorld uses Instant Ocean. Here are some stats on salt mixes

IMG_20221221_074345.jpg
 
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