Quarantining Red Ruby and Scooter Dragonets

[14A]

I'm currently expecting to acquire either a Red Ruby or Scooter Dragonets. They've been with a seller for several months now.

However, I would like to quarantine it. Could you confirm whether the HTTM is the current best method to quarantine a dragonet?

@Humblefish has replied in 2019 to the same question:

"A 30 min, 150 ppm H2O2 bath: https://humble.fish/community/index.php?threads/hydrogen-peroxide.21/

And then place in an observation tank with pods + black mollies. If the black mollies are still clean after 2 weeks, put the mandy in your DT."

And on its "Difficult Fish to QT guide":

"Disease-resistant fish which handles most meds just fine (EXCEPT COPPER). The biggest challenge to quarantining one of these is feeding due to its need for pods.

QT strategy: If you can get a captive bred specimen (e.g. ORA, Biota) already eating frozen or pellets, that is a huge help. Otherwise you're in for a rough go of it. Some have luck offering baby brine shrimp, Masstick, live blackworms, fish eggs... If you ever see "Nutramar Ova" (now discontinued), grab some of that! You can dose pods (or add LR/chaeto with pods), but that only works in a non-medicated environment.

When quarantining a mandarin, you want to get the specimen into your DT (where the pods are) as quickly as possible. The fastest way to do this is to treat with Chloroquine phosphate (see CP Protocol #1) and then transfer the fish directly into your DT after 10-14 days. This strategy is not without risk, so transferring to an observation tank (with LR/chaeto/pods) would be a safer option. You would then black molly test the observation tank to ensure the mandarin is "clean": Black Molly Quarantine"

CP is a little tough to buy where I live. I currently have two captive bred Springeri Damsels. I'm a little worried about internal parasites/intestinal parasites.

Also, would you recommend treating my Springeri Damsels before transfering both to my new tank?

@Jay Hemdal

 

[Spare time]

I have seen them tolerate copper well (at least from simple observation and feedings). If they can eat frozen food, I would consider copper and then prazi. Jay will have a better response, but in my experience they seem to do well in copper (power).

 

[14A]

I have seen them tolerate copper well (at least from simple observation and feedings). If they can eat frozen food, I would consider copper and then prazi. Jay will have a better response, but in my experience they seem to do well in copper (power).

In my country, I know that people like to do Cuprimine and Prazipro for dragonets, but I've read online that Dragonets does not take copper well...

 

[Jay Hemdal]

In my country, I know that people like to do Cuprimine and Prazipro for dragonets, but I've read online that Dragonets does not take copper well...

Cupramine is a bit harsher than copper power or copper safe. Dragonets will handle Prazipro just fine, and I've used coppersafe on them. The trouble is they don't do well in bare quarantine tanks.

The big issue in my opinion is feeding. You say the dealer has had these for some time? You want to ensure they haven't gotten skinny/malnourished during that time. Look at some pictures of the species you are getting from the wild and be certain that the fish you are getting from the store are not a lot thinner.

Jay

 

[14A]

Cupramine is a bit harsher than copper power or copper safe. Dragonets will handle Prazipro just fine, and I've used coppersafe on them. The trouble is they don't do well in bare quarantine tanks.

The big issue in my opinion is feeding. You say the dealer has had these for some time? You want to ensure they haven't gotten skinny/malnourished during that time. Look at some pictures of the species you are getting from the wild and be certain that the fish you are getting from the store are not a lot thinner.

Jay

Thanks!

As for feeding: I've seen both of them multiple times. I've also fed them frozen zooplankton. Both look healthy/active.