Yeah I'd bet you have 0 for both. You have to account for the error range in the spin kit (and all other kits) + whatever may be added via user. I also very much doubt you are having a pH issue
Yeah I'd bet you have 0 for both. You have to account for the error range in the spin kit (and all other kits) + whatever may be added via user. I also very much doubt you are having a pH issue
I've just done a hanna test, nitrite is 0.042 ppm, checking for ammonia my self now, will update in a few minutes, he's just chilling at the top now @vetteguy53081
I feel this may be an oxygen issue (lack of). Protein Skimmers are a great way to introduce oxygen to the tank. If you aren't using a protein skimmer, think air stone.
I'm using one, he seems to be opening his mouth more as if he's breathing but it's possible hes' doing it cause he's not swimming as much
Dont be too concerned with Nitrite unless Sky high over 100. Its nitrate you will want to see as well as ammonia. Coming to the top is good and hunger would be better. Addition of air stone will be more effective than skimming. Dont think oxygen is a big part as it was earlier breathing slow and not rapid.
With low o2, it would be gasping at surface and breathing rapidly
I'll be adding an airstone now, nitrate is around 20-25 range and I'm making more water now to do another water change, I added a cube to see if he reacts to food and he did go for it and ate 4-5 mysis and then got stuck by the weir box and now he's back in his corner, he usually never sits in a corner, and always swims up to the main glass, the only visible disease is an ich spot on an anthias, i thought he was paralyzed because of the foxface or something, also I've never seen him poop, I've seen every other fish in the tank do it a few times, he gets fed quite a lot and I've never seen him poop once, could he have something that effects that?
I also just put him on a diet, I do not know if that affects him in any way, but he was eating 3 times a day, and this is his 2nd day of diet and i'm feeding him not even half of what he was eating a few days ago, I'm just trying to find out what's going on so I can treat it
4 feeding not unusual but it needs more than a cube.
Some foods are chopped shrimp, krill, chopped clam, cut up silversides, crab and even beefheart. With their diet, they can drive up nitrates which is why you want to keep an eye and ammonia and nitrate levels.
I assume there is coral rock in tank? They need it to sharpen and trim their clam-like teeth
I've been feeding him 3 times with krill superba(around 10 large ones) every feed, + 6 cubes for 5 anthias, hawkfish, 2 wrasses, tang, algae blenny split into 3 feedings of 2 cubes per feed, now the LFS said take it down to twice a day with 1 or 1.5 cubes , I've give him clam, snails, and he did chew on shell/some of the coral in tank which i don't mind, nitriate did reach a point where it got up to 40-50ppm, since my rodi can't even make 2 gallon a day
very good update: he's doing much better, after i added that airstone, I brought him some krill superba and he's swimming normal and splashing the water/sptting for food, i see 3 spots on his face that are clearly visisble here: and here is the video of him being normal now, he is still sick and i think this is ick? by his eye and above his mouthView attachment 3048883
Glad he is looking better. Keep an eye on the spots. If more appear or if these dissappear and reappear somewhere else, early stage ich would be indicated.
he has ich, he's getting way more spots, after basically 80% of the water got changed he's feeling much better, swims normal most of the time and acts very active when fed, but most of the fish are getting ich spots, what's the best medication i can use in a display tank? I can move all the corals out if needed to another established tank
For most fish with ich we recommend copper treatment. However, puffers can be sensitive to copper. Your best path may be to try hypo-salinity (sg between 1.009 and 1.010) for 30 days. If you take this path, you will need to either place all of the fish in QT, or remove all of the coral from the tank. If you remove the coral, do not place it in an established tank with fish. The coral will likely carry ich parasites into the established tank. The other fish are less sensitive to copper and could be treated in QT for 30 days if you have a copper based product in your location. That would still leave you with the puffer to deal with.
Puffer should be fine with Copper Power
this is the current medication i was able to get from my LFS, coppersafe is not available here in the uk, should i use this? it says it cures ich, haven't found much information online and wanted to see if someone has used it, also if I do choose to treat with copper do I need to start cycling a tank now? and will that be okay for the next few weeks till it's cycled and then start treating with copper?
The medication and its ingredients you questioned is not one we recommend in the states for treatment of ich, so I'm not qualified to address its effectiveness.
I believe Cupramine is available in England. It is ionic copper which requires different dosing than Copper Safe or Copper Power. It is a very effective treatment but because of its formulation the target concentration is 0.50 ppm. You must also closely monitor species which are more sensitive to copper such as the puffer. Be sure to have an accurate measure of the amount of water in your system. Often, the actual water volume of a tank even without any rock is lower that the advertised volume which could lead to overdose.
Review the link below about the QT process. If in fact your fish have ich, time is of the essence and you will not be able to wait for treatment. The article in the link describes ways to manage the QT to avoid the risk of high ammonia in an uncycled tank. Chemicals advertised to remove or detoxify ammonia should NOT be used in the QT environment. These chemicals will lead to inaccurate measurement of copper concentration putting you fish at significant risk.
I believe Cupramine is available in England. It is ionic copper which requires different dosing than Copper Safe or Copper Power. It is a very effective treatment but because of its formulation the target concentration is 0.50 ppm. You must also closely monitor species which are more sensitive to copper such as the puffer. Be sure to have an accurate measure of the amount of water in your system. Often, the actual water volume of a tank even without any rock is lower that the advertised volume which could lead to overdose.
Review the link below about the QT process. If in fact your fish have ich, time is of the essence and you will not be able to wait for treatment. The article in the link describes ways to manage the QT to avoid the risk of high ammonia in an uncycled tank. Chemicals advertised to remove or detoxify ammonia should NOT be used in the QT environment. These chemicals will lead to inaccurate measurement of copper concentration putting you fish at significant risk.
Thank you so much for your help! I'm not goiing to risk my fish and use it, I can get cupramine in 2 days delivered, should i dose 75% of the dosage? and what's the best way of estimating the water volume considering the volume that red sea says is inaccurate ..etc, i'll visit the link now to check what i can do, thanks!
You will need to use the full dose as provided in the instructions on the bottle. Unfortunately, copper treatment below established targets are ineffective, even if administered for a longer time period. Be sure to get a good test kit. Either the one provided by Seachem, or even better would be the Hanna Checker.
You can calculate the volume based on the inside measurements LxWxH. Likewise if you have external filtration. Most QT have minimal structures. If yours are significant you might have to adjust your estimate accordingly.
You can calculate the volume based on the inside measurements LxWxH. Likewise if you have external filtration. Most QT have minimal structures. If yours are significant you might have to adjust your estimate accordingly.
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