PO4 and NO3 control recommendations

[MonoZXM]

Hi reefers,

This post might be a bit lengthy as I want to thoroughly explain my situation. I've been maintaining a 20-gallon reef tank for about a year now, but it's starting to feel cramped. Plus, I love collecting rare and high-end corals, so I've decided to upgrade to a 100-gallon tank. Now, my new tank is about 4-5 months old, and I'm encountering some issues that I could really use some help with.

I'm feeling quite frustrated with nutrient control in my reef tank. Initially, I fed twice daily with only frozen mysis shrimp, making sure to rinse it before feeding, to minimize my PO4 levels. Surprisingly, my PO4 stayed at 0.1, and NO3 hovered around 10, which seemed a bit high considering the feeding.

Then, I introduced some Algae Barn Live phytoplankton in hopes of reducing my PO4 and NO3 levels as well as boosting my pod population, but instead, my PO4 shot up to 0.15, while NO3 remained unchanged. To combat this, I added some softball-sized chaeto and a small amount of Red Ogo Gracilaria Macroalgae that came with my pods order to the refugium. However, after a couple of weeks, there were pretty much no changes in PO4 and NO3 levels, and the chaeto began to turn white, and diatoms were growing in the refugium and on the chaeto as well. Interestingly, the Red algae thrived compared to the chaeto, showing noticeable growth.

Since I still need to feed my coral, I started incorporating Arcti-Pods and Oyster Feast into the fish food once a day, along with feeding coral reef roids once a week. Additionally, I began dosing Brightwell Aquatics Phosphat-E (5 drops daily), which maintains my PO4 at around 0.15 (without dosing, it can rise to 0.2 or more). However, I'm unsure of what to do next, as I'd prefer to avoid daily manual dosing. While I know I could use GFO, I've heard conflicting opinions about its impact on reef tanks and how to control its phosphate removal.

Parameters and some additional information:

Alk, Cal, PO4, and NO3 were tested using Hanna checker; Everything else using Red Sea. I perform a water change every week, ranging from 10% to 20%.

Alkalinity: 8.3 - 8.6
Calcium: 450
Magnesium: 1450
pH: 7.9 during the daytime, 7.8 during nighttime
Phosphate: 0.15
Nitrate: 10 - 15

Fish: 9 (2 pairs of clownfish, 2 gobies, 1 wrasse, 1 tang, 1 blenny)
Others: 2 shrimp and some cleanup crews
Coral:
4 Zoa
2 Torch
7 Mushroom
1 Goni
2 Chalice
2 Anemones (both clownfish pairs not hosting it )


Appreciate any insights or suggestions you might have!

 

[legionofdoon]

Your nitrate is fine where it's at. Especially for your type of corals.

 

[Dburr1014]

Your question is how to control.
NO3 is easiest by water changes.
PO4 is easiest by GFO or simular. Definatly use less than recommended by 1/2 or even 1/4.
But having said that, do you see any problems with live stock?
If not, I wouldn't do anything at this point and see where things shake out.

 

[MonoZXM]

Your question is how to control.
NO3 is easiest by water changes.
PO4 is easiest by GFO or simular. Definatly use less than recommended by 1/2 or even 1/4.
But having said that, do you see any problems with live stock?
If not, I wouldn't do anything at this point and see where things shake out.

I haven't noticed any issues with my livestock, and to maintain a stable phosphate level, I'm currently dosing Phosphat-E, which keeps my PO4 levels at around 0.15....otherwise, it will go up to ~0.2

 

[MonoZXM]

so I guess the best option would be GFO with less than the recommended amount? (do not want to manually dose Phosphat-E)

 

[Uncle99]

I’ve run nitrate at 10ppm and phosphate at 0.2ppm for years with zero issues.
No carbon dosing, no GFO.
I rather have stability than low numbers.

 

[ELChingonsReef]

I've broken the golden rule. Too many changes at once. Unfortunately I'm paying the price. It all started when I traded my gem tang for a larger powder brown tang. . A week later I replaced my skimmer with a larger one. Waited a week for the brake in period. I'm still not satisfied with the way the red sea rsk 300 is skimming right now. Then I did a larger water change than I usually do. I knocked over a large torch colony and had to remove it from the tank. I cut it up and sold the frags . I kept one head for myself. I also removed a large millipora colony that same day. I unplugged my doser while all this was happening. I forgot to plug it back in. When I realized I didn't plug it back in,I plugged it in a few hours later. My doser has missed dose compensation. So it dumped twice the amount of calcium alkalinity and magnesium that it usually does in a short period of time. I woke up the next morning to an alkalinity level of 9.7ppm from 8.5ppm the night before. Now my corals are stressed. Very light in color. And my corals are not consuming nitrates and phosphates like before. I have a new fish that's producing more waste and a new skimmer that's not skimming the way my old one was. Now my nitrates are 15ppm from 7ppm and phosphate are .18 from 0.07 . I'm thinking about carbon dosing until things get better. Or is this a bad idea. I've already changed too many things lately.

 

[nano reef]

I am having similar issues was hoping to see more comments. So what did u guys do to combat the problems?

I have used gfo for 4 years and once I got it dialed in @0.03 I wouldnt test for months thinking I am good to go. Now I am testing daily and finding out it varies like crazy! I have in a bag and also a rack so dont use a reactor. I have very slow growth rate of corals and lost most of my zoas that I just spent 3k on high end ones. The only survivors were a few low polyp count and mostly larger polyp count survived but I see my huge colony of leprechauns slowly melting! I think it diatoms from adding a bunch of acrylic frag plugs. I read that adding new plastic or anything cause diatoms. Coaraline took over in one tank and all is good but NO3 and PO4.

Po4 ranging from 0.17 and 0.10 in 2 tanks. one i The other one with diatoms is 0,01 and 0.06.

Consdering fauna marin brand of carbon, just wish I knew if it true about how they say it works! Not many reviews and some saying it didint work. A hob refugium since I have lights already and found a inexpensive large breeding box I saw people turning into hob refugium very cheaply!

Since I am space limited those are my options and I can hide the box easily so its not unsightly behind my small sump and behind tank.

Leaning more toward the breeder box refugium because i cant get my skimmer dialed in now because of a sump leak. Not even sure if its leaking from sump but levels keep getting very low and salinity dosnt rise! I just top off every few days and if I hook up my ato it will lower the salinity to much unless I add salt and dont know how much to add! I am in a big hurry as well because of a coarl order I have on hold with some sps in it!

Maybe TMI but wanted to know what you guys choose and how its working for you!

Oh nitrates around 25 and 18 in frag tank

 

[REEFRIED!]

Hi reefers,

This post might be a bit lengthy as I want to thoroughly explain my situation. I've been maintaining a 20-gallon reef tank for about a year now, but it's starting to feel cramped. Plus, I love collecting rare and high-end corals, so I've decided to upgrade to a 100-gallon tank. Now, my new tank is about 4-5 months old, and I'm encountering some issues that I could really use some help with.

I'm feeling quite frustrated with nutrient control in my reef tank. Initially, I fed twice daily with only frozen mysis shrimp, making sure to rinse it before feeding, to minimize my PO4 levels. Surprisingly, my PO4 stayed at 0.1, and NO3 hovered around 10, which seemed a bit high considering the feeding.

Then, I introduced some Algae Barn Live phytoplankton in hopes of reducing my PO4 and NO3 levels as well as boosting my pod population, but instead, my PO4 shot up to 0.15, while NO3 remained unchanged. To combat this, I added some softball-sized chaeto and a small amount of Red Ogo Gracilaria Macroalgae that came with my pods order to the refugium. However, after a couple of weeks, there were pretty much no changes in PO4 and NO3 levels, and the chaeto began to turn white, and diatoms were growing in the refugium and on the chaeto as well. Interestingly, the Red algae thrived compared to the chaeto, showing noticeable growth.

Since I still need to feed my coral, I started incorporating Arcti-Pods and Oyster Feast into the fish food once a day, along with feeding coral reef roids once a week. Additionally, I began dosing Brightwell Aquatics Phosphat-E (5 drops daily), which maintains my PO4 at around 0.15 (without dosing, it can rise to 0.2 or more). However, I'm unsure of what to do next, as I'd prefer to avoid daily manual dosing. While I know I could use GFO, I've heard conflicting opinions about its impact on reef tanks and how to control its phosphate removal.

Parameters and some additional information:

Alk, Cal, PO4, and NO3 were tested using Hanna checker; Everything else using Red Sea. I perform a water change every week, ranging from 10% to 20%.

Alkalinity: 8.3 - 8.6
Calcium: 450
Magnesium: 1450
pH: 7.9 during the daytime, 7.8 during nighttime
Phosphate: 0.15
Nitrate: 10 - 15

Fish: 9 (2 pairs of clownfish, 2 gobies, 1 wrasse, 1 tang, 1 blenny)
Others: 2 shrimp and some cleanup crews
Coral:
4 Zoa
2 Torch
7 Mushroom
1 Goni
2 Chalice
2 Anemones (both clownfish pairs not hosting it )


Appreciate any insights or suggestions you might have!

If I were you I would slow down. First off I would not add any GFO. If I were you I would go back to feeding the fish twice per day. I would not add any coral food, no arcti-pods, no oyster feast, and definitely no reefroids. Phosphate is entirely related to what you put into the tank. Go back to only feeding the fish and I guarantee your pO4 levels will drop. Do this for the next three weeks before you try any phosphate removal products.