Pistol shrimp kills everything!?

ReeferHolland

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My pistol shrimp killed my blood shrimp 2 days ago and now he killed my cleaner shrimp and eats it together with my blue hermit. LFS told me it nothing like that could probably happen...
So now I don't want him anymore because I really liked my cleaner shrimp.
He is also constantly snapping at my clowns. They are the only 2 fish in the tank and I'm affraid he will kill one of them very soon, is this possible?
I somehow managed to see him snapping at my clowns at night. When they sleep they are just wobbling around the tank very slowly and when they swim by and accidently touch one of his feelers he instantly snaps at the fish.
What is the probability that he kills one or both of my clowns? Seems very high to me
And how can I catch my pistol shrimp if I want to?

Is there any way to introduce new cleaner shrimp without getting killed by the pistol shrimp?

My tank is a redsea 200L
 

Jasongtr

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Having a pistol shrimp without a goby, is the same as letting your cranky blind grandfather out in public without his nurse. He will literally just roam around screaming at "these dang kids" to "get off his lawn".
I have a yellow watchman and a pistol shrimp, both been in the tank for two months and they hate each other, the shrimp is an A**hole, I’m changing tanks in the new year and once the rocks are out of the tank so is that shrimp - it’s got a serious attitude problem
 
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Rick's Reviews

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What foods have you offered to 'pistol shrimp', do you know what breed it is, identified which species it is?

You can get side tracked with posts unless I have misread something

You can offer various foods for 'pistol shrimp', see which one it prefers (I did this with my mandarin for 4 months) you can offer various foods, live to begin with, dried, algae wafers, various pellets, even dead fish frozen/or alive,)
 
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ReeferHolland

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Unless your adding something

ok im not seeing anything that would take up phosphates to the point of zeroing out . I would suspect that maybe your testing kit is not showing accurate results . I would get a test don’t with a different testing kit either from your lfs or maybe a friend that’s also in the hobby . For phosphates I prefer the Hanna ultra phosphate checker . See if your results are in fact zero and if so start dosing to keep from zeroing out and leading to Dino’s . Looking at you photo I’m not seeing any algae which would lead me to believe that your pho’s are not that high . Get them checked out ASAP . As far as the bacterial bloom I would get a product like brightwell’s microbactor 7 to help increase your good bacteria to combat the bloom . Do you have a powerhead ( not sure if that’s what is on the front of the glass) in the tank ?? It’s hard to tell . If not I would encourage that you get one tonot only agitate the surface for proper gas exchange but to also help establish bacteria on your rocks properly . Your coral will also need current for nutrient intake .

Thanks for the help, I don't have access to any microbacter products now, I'm from the Netherlands.
I just did a 10% waterchange and removed some dirt from the sandbed. I added some AF Lifesource, Microbe-lift special blend and microbe lift nite out 2. Hopefully its somewhat similar to microbacter 7.

I will let my phosphates get checked asap.

I did have a strong powerhead. But because I added some ricordeas and a shroom, I had to use a very small powerhead and put drinking glasses over the corals to protect them from floating away off the rock.
I removed them from the plugs from LFS so they aren't attached to anything yet.

The bacterial blooms already were a problem before I added corals. But it disappeared so I added corals and now my pistol shrimp ate 2 other shrimps, and 2 hermits lost their skins? So that was too much waste which caused another bacterial bloom.

I really hope my corals survive. What do you think?
 
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