$pikes 25 Gallon Goon

[Johnd651]

Nothing wrong with 2x4 at all, especially from a strength point. I think you'd be able to park a whole truck stop worth of tractor trailers on top of your stand . I have a small house and having that extra room to store all the reef keeping gear is essential. Same reason I had the stand bigger from to back by like 7" and side to side by another 2"ish. Plus the added benefit of a working space when testing water, etc.

Think of it like this - where you have 2x8's - thedoubled up 3/4" on mine is only 1-1/2". Thats 6"+ of lost real estate. Plus the sides that's another 3"+ in both directions vertically from the 2x4.

Another way to look at it is standard kitchen cabinets are basic 3/4" boxes at their core, with huge cut outs for doors and drawer, usually with no back. These can hold up fat chonks of thick granite no problem.

My design has a full back and a shelf that is screwed to all sides with extra supports underneath. Plus the base which has double up framing and cross braces underneath.

I did a bad job taking pics of the cabinet build because I was rushing to get it don't in a weekend using my old man's wood shop.

How do you feel about the back chamber on yours? I feel like the IM AIO have smaller compartments, but I also like that this maximizes display space.

I am totally messing. I always overbuild. I always feel worried about stuff falling apart. I even used nails and screws when assembling.

The back chamber on mine is about 3.5in wide. I have been able to fit everything I need to in it so far, and do actually like the idea that I dont have to worry about an overflow overflowing if a pump dies, or snail gets stuck etc. I did have to figure out a separate ATO container.

 

[SpikesReef]

I am totally messing. I always overbuild. I always feel worried about stuff falling apart. I even used nails and screws when assembling.

The back chamber on mine is about 3.5in wide. I have been able to fit everything I need to in it so far, and do actually like the idea that I dont have to worry about an overflow overflowing if a pump dies, or snail gets stuck etc. I did have to figure out a separate ATO container.

100% same here. I was always paranoid with the overflow to sump on my past system, even with a pretty fail proof bean animal set up.

I bought a 5g cheap Petco tank for my ato and realized I could fit a 10g in the same spot. I think it'll be enough water for a month lol.

Good luck I'm gonna follow along with your build!

 

[SpikesReef]

I created a cardboard template the size of my tank to help guide me while aquascaping. Using a hammer and chisel I smashed dry Marco Rock into smaller pieces, then used super glue gel to form them into interesting shapes with over hangs, caves and arches. My main priority was ensuring there was plenty of spots for corals. Less of a concentration on negative space since this is a small tank, more thought went into adding horizontal shelf's and limiting vertical wasted space. It isn't conveyed well through photo.

Once I was pretty happy with it, I further secured all the joints with epoxy, let it cure a few days, then used liquid super glue and rock dust to hide the epoxy joints and make it look more cohesive and natural.

This worked well but I found myself short on dust so I spent like 2 hours hammer drilling rubble to get more. The day after I finished I saw that Marco Rocks sells this valuable powder, you live and you learn.

I do plan to have an island or two in addition to this central structure, but I'll add those later as needed when I'm running out of real estate.

I spent several hours across multiple days on this since it's so important to how the final product will look. Especially since I'm doing all encrusting corals.

Got it in the tank and added about 20 lbs of Caribsea special grade dry sand that I rinsed really well and fully dried.

 

[tautog83]

Do you have 90 psi going through the rest of your house? When i bought my house i had a similar issue and had to get a valve to limit city water pressure because it was wayyyy too high. Stand looks good though, 25 is a nice little size for zoas. Love the lagoon sizes

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Do you have 90 psi going through the rest of your house? When i bought my house i had a similar issue and had to get a valve to limit city water pressure because it was wayyyy too high. Stand looks good though, 25 is a nice little size for zoas. Love the lagoon sizes

They typically look like this, and can be found on the water pipe right after it comes into the house. Universal Plumbing Code calls for no more than 80 psi in residences.

Wilkins 3/4 in. Bronze Pressure Reducing Valve 34-600XLSC - The Home Depot

The Zurn Wilkins 600XL Pressure Reducing Valve is designed for installation on potable water lines to reduce high inlet pressure to a lower outlet pressure. The integral strainer makes this device most

www.homedepot.com

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

If you want to reduce the pressure ONLY at your RODI system, we have something very similar, but just much smaller:

Pressure Regulator

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

 

[Johnd651]

I created a cardboard template the size of my tank to help guide me while aquascaping. Using a hammer and chisel I smashed dry Marco Rock into smaller pieces, then used super glue gel to form them into interesting shapes with over hangs, caves and arches. My main priority was ensuring there was plenty of spots for corals. Less of a concentration on negative space since this is a small tank, more thought went into adding horizontal shelf's and limiting vertical wasted space. It isn't conveyed well through photo.

Once I was pretty happy with it, I further secured all the joints with epoxy, let it cure a few days, then used liquid super glue and rock dust to hide the epoxy joints and make it look more cohesive and natural.

This worked well but I found myself short on dust so I spent like 2 hours hammer drilling rubble to get more. The day after I finished I saw that Marco Rocks sells this valuable powder, you live and you learn.

I do plan to have an island or two in addition to this central structure, but I'll add those later as needed when I'm running out of real estate.

I spent several hours across multiple days on this since it's so important to how the final product will look. Especially since I'm doing all encrusting corals.

Got it in the tank and added about 20 lbs of Caribsea special grade dry sand that I rinsed really well and fully dried.

I created a cardboard template the size of my tank to help guide me while aquascaping. Using a hammer and chisel I smashed dry Marco Rock into smaller pieces, then used super glue gel to form them into interesting shapes with over hangs, caves and arches. My main priority was ensuring there was plenty of spots for corals. Less of a concentration on negative space since this is a small tank, more thought went into adding horizontal shelf's and limiting vertical wasted space. It isn't conveyed well through photo.

Once I was pretty happy with it, I further secured all the joints with epoxy, let it cure a few days, then used liquid super glue and rock dust to hide the epoxy joints and make it look more cohesive and natural.

This worked well but I found myself short on dust so I spent like 2 hours hammer drilling rubble to get more. The day after I finished I saw that Marco Rocks sells this valuable powder, you live and you learn.

I do plan to have an island or two in addition to this central structure, but I'll add those later as needed when I'm running out of real estate.

I spent several hours across multiple days on this since it's so important to how the final product will look. Especially since I'm doing all encrusting corals.

Got it in the tank and added about 20 lbs of Caribsea special grade dry sand that I rinsed really well and fully dried.

I hires my 5 year old. She wanted caves.

 

[Johnd651]

If you want to reduce the pressure ONLY at your RODI system, we have something very similar, but just much smaller:

Pressure Regulator

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

Don't you want higher psi at the rodi? I had to buy a booster pump to get it up to 75-80psi

 

[SpikesReef]

Do you have 90 psi going through the rest of your house? When i bought my house i had a similar issue and had to get a valve to limit city water pressure because it was wayyyy too high. Stand looks good though, 25 is a nice little size for zoas. Love the lagoon sizes

Not noticeable but I'm also not measuring it. My faucets are slow if anything. My main shower head, I removed the limiter at the suggestion of my plumber, now I have to turn it on like 1/3 of the power lol. That would be the only place I'd say has strong pressure.

I bought a precision needle valve from Buck Hydro to scale back the flow to 75 on the RO input- different than the one they linked below.

 

[SpikesReef]

Don't you want higher psi at the rodi? I had to buy a booster pump to get it up to 75-80psi

It was my understanding previously that more pressure increases efficiency and reduces waste water. Some older BRS videos they did a test showing how higher pressure got them 100gpd from a 75gpd membrane.

Also realizing it's totally possible I have a defective pressure gauge but I'm ok with that for now. I'll dial it to 80 which seems pretty standard and perfect based on various sources.

I know you definitely don't want to be below the minimum which I believe is around 50-60psi, that's where the booster pumps come in. The video is linked below as well as some screenshots bc I just rewatched. Thr main take away is Ryan is stating the membrane can handle up to 150psi, and the main concern is higher flow can product leaking - but mines not leaking. This video is the main reason I was excited to be getting so much pressure, and I'm def getting more than 75gpd. As you can see in the thumbnails, after 80lbs I the rejection rate doesn't change, just the production. I'm going to dial it back bc I figure more dwell time in the carbon blocks would be a good thing but...

@bucks hydro what's your take on this? Is your recommendation based on the fact that residential pressure should never be above 80psi?

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Yes - the membrane will function better at higher pressure
Yes - there are components in your rodi that can NOT withstand pressures as high as the membrane can

The weakest components in terms of ability to withstand elevated pressure are your clear housings. Typically they are spec'ed to a max pressure of around 80 psi.

So if you have low pressure (typically 45 psi or less) and install a booster pump, install it AFTER your prefilter housings but before your membrane housing.

 

[SpikesReef]

Yes - the membrane will function better at higher pressure
Yes - there are components in your rodi that can NOT withstand pressures as high as the membrane can

The weakest components in terms of ability to withstand elevated pressure are your clear housings. Typically they are spec'ed to a max pressure of around 80 psi.

So if you have low pressure (typically 45 psi or less) and install a booster pump, install it AFTER your prefilter housings but before your membrane housing.

That makes sense, you're the man Russ

 

[SpikesReef]

A little wire management this weekend.

I got all the components hooked up and started mounting them to the board inside my stand. Once I had an idea what I needed to mount I drilled some holes and everything got put in its final resting spot.

I am going to build a removable shelf with a side to block wires that will go to the left of the control panel.

I cut a piece of acrylic to make a top for a 5.5g Petco tank that I'm going to use as my ATO reservoir. I might up this to a ten gallon because that will fit and the more volume the less frequently I need to replenish.

I had to buy a water jug made for camping- like a gas can type, which makes adding water easier. This was a smart purchase because it's much easier on my back carrying this up 2 flights rather than a 5 gallon bucket.

I also added a few batter operated, remote control puck lights so I can see what I'm doing down there.

 

[SpikesReef]

Time to cycle

I know from previous poor experience that it's best to heavily seed dry rock with bacteria and supplement with various sources of established live rock.

I started the first week using the Brightwell dry rock cycling kit with ammonia and XLM bacteria, after a week I added a bottle of Dr Tim's one and only. A week after that, Fritz's turbo start. The following week a bottle of tigger pods and phyto every 3 days. 2 weeks after that an additional small bottle of Dr Tim's. The next week, more pods.

non bottle bacteria moves
-added porous bio balls to the display, these will eventually go into the rear chambers for additional surface area for bacteria's.
- Added seeded biomedia from a friends sump
- added 1/4 lb Australian live rock that had a swift high salinity dip first
- purchased Gulf live rubble from KP Aquatics

All that and the real media I wanted from aquabiomics became available, so I bought two packs of their seeded aquacultured media that is tested and clean.

I am still waiting on the KP and AB rubbles but my tank is showing zero ammonia, sky high nitrite and nitrate 3 weeks into the cycle.

I am going to raise the ammonia just under 2 and monitor how long it takes the system to process it. I have also put a tiny amount of frozen food in about once a week.

I plan to keep the lights off as long as I can stand it (ideally MONTHS) and I will add fish once the system can process 2 ppm ammonia in 24 hours. If I can be steadfast, lights will stay off until March 1st, the likelihood of me being that patient is extremely low though! Hoping to purchase my first few frags at Frag Farmers Market in CT in March.