Phytoplankton, the reef’s super power!

[Reef By Steele]

What is Phytoplankton?​

Microalgae, what we call phytoplankton, are aquatic, microscopic, single-celled, photosynthetic organisms. Similar to plants (their land counterparts), phytoplankton have chlorophyll in their cells, and generate food through the process of photosynthesis.

Phytoplankton are primary producers and form the foundation of virtually all marine food chains, supporting marine ecosystems and making other aquatic life possible. Phytoplankton is such an important piece of the biome both in the wild and in our aquariums, making phytoplankton an essential component to a balanced reef ecosystem.

Nutritional Value of Phytoplankton​

Phytoplankton is an abundant source of macro- and micronutrients. You will find protein, carbohydrates, vitamins, lipids, and trace elements. One of the most important nutrients contained within phytoplankton cells are lipids, in particular Omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3 fatty acids, often referred to as highly unsaturated fats (HUFA), are absolutely essential for the health and coloration of marine invertebrates and fish. Of these fatty acids, eicosapentaenoic acid or EPA (found generally in green-colored phytoplankton species) and docosahexaenoic acid or DHA (found generally in brown-colored phytoplankton species) are of critical importance to marine life, with DHA proving to be the more essential of the two. This is why our phyto buffet incorporates 5 brown strains, 4 green strains, and one red strain added for improved coral coloration.

When dosing phytoplankton in an aquarium, in order to obtain maximum nutrition, dosing multiple species with various nutritional profiles is important. A good dosing regimen for a reef aquarium is a

MINIMUM of one strain of a high-EPA (e.g., Chorella) and one strain of a high-DHA algae (e.g., Thalassiosira wiesflogii) to ensure that the aquarium inhabitants receive proper nutrition.

What Consumes Phytoplankton?​

Whether in the wild or in aquariums, phytoplankton is a perfect food for: Corals, clams, feather dusters, scallops, tunicates and sponges, copepods, tube-worms, sea squirts, and other suspension-feeding invertebrates. In aquariums, regular dosing of phytoplankton increases the health, coloration, growth, and polyp extension of corals. It also increases the development and vibrancy of your marine life, and boosts zooplankton populations. Which increases the probability of establishing copepod colonies in your aquarium.

Maintaining Water Quality​

Phytoplankton can play a major role in water quality and nutrient recycling through their consumption of nitrogenous wastes. Phytoplankton consume nitrogen and phosphorous to perform photosynthesis. In an aquarium environment, adding LIVE phytoplankton will reduce your nitrate (NO3) and phosphate (PO4) levels as the living phytoplankton consume these nutrients for photosynthesis.

Not only will live phytoplankton help reduce NO3 and PO4 levels, but through photosynthesis the phytoplankton help balance pH levels by increasing dissolved oxygen levels in the aquarium while simultaneously reducing carbon dioxide levels.

How drastically can phytoplankton affect water quality? It turns out, quite a lot! In fact, because phytoplanktons are so effective at nutrient uptake and because of their capacity for exponential growth, phytoplankton are sometimes utilized at municipal water treatment facilities to remove primary nutrients from sewage and wastewater. So, if phytoplankton can tackle sewage, just imagine the work that phytoplankton can do in your aquarium!

Outcompeting Nuisance Algae​

A further benefit of dosing live phytoplankton in an aquarium is to help reduce or prevent nuisance algae growth (e.g., hair algae, bryopsis, cyano, etc.). Nuisance algae in aquariums consume the same nutrients as live phytoplankton to grow and survive. If live phytoplankton is dosed regularly and consumes these nutrients, the nuisance algae will eventually wither away.

What to Look for in a Quality Phytoplankton Product?​

There are a lot of phytoplankton products on the aquarium market, and there is a lot of misinformation about what constitutes a quality phytoplankton product. If you are looking for a quality phytoplankton product that will give your reef the benefits of maximum nutrition, optimal water quality, and help reduce nuisance algae growth, then here's what you need to look for:

• MULTI-SPECIE BLEND

Our PHYTO BUFFET contains a blend of 10 species of phytoplankton covering all the nutritional needs of your aquarium. With various nutritional profiles and cell size and structure to target a wider range of tank inhabitants.

***For proper nutrition, you need to dose a MINIMUM of TWO species of phytoplankton.***

• EPA & DHA (GREENS & BROWNS)

Our PHYTO BUFFET contains 2 gold, 3 browns, 4 greens and 1 red strains of phytoplankton covering all the nutritional needs of your aquarium.

**It is critical to dose BOTH high-EPA (typically "green") and high-DHA (typically "gold or brown") species.***

• LIVE (in contrast to concentrates, pastes, or cryopreserved)

Our PHYTO BUFFET is harvested fresh and live each week on the shipping day providing you with the highest quality product you can get.

***In order to receive the benefits of nutrient consumption, the product must be LIVE.***

• NO PRESERVATIVES, GELS, BINDERS, OR OTHER ADDITIVES

Our PHYTO BUFFET is cultured in sterilized water in sterile vessels with no additives or preservatives ever added.

***Avoid products with additives that could be potentially harmful to your reef.***

If you are interested in a steady supply of phytoplankton and or zooplankton, you can purchase regularly, set up a subscription, or culture your own. There are costs and benefits to evaluate to determine which is right for your personal needs. With a set up like our Custom Culturing Kits a person can be successful with the proper instruction. My favorite reefer @Ocean_Queenie has successfully cultured two strains of phytoplankton and a nice population of Apocyclops copepods on her first attempt using this Kit.

Check out our selection at www.reefbysteele.com

 

[Outlaw Corals]

How long before it starts to lower nitrates ?

 

[Krak-A-Pat]

Can you over dose your tank?

 

[Reef By Steele]

How long before it starts to lower nitrates ?

Depending on the system and how much you dose. Some have told me it their tank reacted quick. When I first started by buying from someone on here, my mentor said it may take a few weeks to see improvements. I overstock my tanks as I love too many fish, so I fought high nutrients from the start. Had shoulder surgery in October and wasn’t able to do any real tank maintenance including water changes until February I believe. Have to look at my threads and see when I got Polytoxin poisoning lol as that was my first water change. I had been dosing homemade no-pox, but couldn’t even refill that. My nitrates and phosphates had dropped and remained in my target range of 10-15 and 1-2 respectively.

Just as with any new change, monitor it to make sure you don’t bottom out.

 

[Reef By Steele]

Can you over dose your tank?

Yes and no. 1-3ml per gallon of system volume per day will not overdose a system, but if you run low nutrients you should watch to ensure they don’t bottom out. I don’t know anyone with that problem but one R2R member commented on another thread once that their tank bottoms out super quick if he doses any. Guessing he keeps a lot tighter ship than I do.

I would think you would need to dose enough to discolor the water to actuallY overdose a tank. I add 500-750ml in my two 210’s and that much in our 160 predator tank. Each day during feeding.

 

[Captain-Barnacle]

Has anyone tried running a phytoplankton bioreactor loop that takes a tank's background phyto to multiply with light and CO2 and dose back and feed filter-feeders according to their need? Simply adjust light, CO2, and dose, in a sustained cycle?

 

[Reef By Steele]

Has anyone tried running a phytoplankton bioreactor loop that takes a tank's background phyto to multiply with light and CO2 and dose back and feed filter-feeders according to their need? Simply adjust light, CO2, and dose, in a sustained cycle?

Sounds interesting, you would probably have to provide initial phyto to the system. Question I would have though, is what keeps your reactor to only producing phytoplankton and not nuisance algae?

 

[Outlaw Corals]

Depending on the system and how much you dose. Some have told me it their tank reacted quick. When I first started by buying from someone on here, my mentor said it may take a few weeks to see improvements. I overstock my tanks as I love too many fish, so I fought high nutrients from the start. Had shoulder surgery in October and wasn’t able to do any real tank maintenance including water changes until February I believe. Have to look at my threads and see when I got Polytoxin poisoning lol as that was my first water change. I had been dosing homemade no-pox, but couldn’t even refill that. My nitrates and phosphates had dropped and remained in my target range of 10-15 and 1-2 respectively.

Just as with any new change, monitor it to make sure you don’t bottom out.

I don’t know why my nitrate is so high and i can’t get it down at all, I did a big water change, I cut feeding my fish down to twice a week, I feed my Corals Phyto five times a week and stopped feeding them the dry foods, and I have been micro dosing bacteria every night, and my nitrate is stuck at 50, my phosphates are low and I have no nuisance algae. It just makes no sense.

 

[Reef By Steele]

I don’t know why my nitrate is so high and i can’t get it down at all, I did a big water change, I cut feeding my fish down to twice a week, I feed my Corals Phyto five times a week and stopped feeding them the dry foods, and I have been micro dosing bacteria every night, and my nitrate is stuck at 50, my phosphates are low and I have no nuisance algae. It just makes no sense.

is your Phyto live? Or processed? Past or artificially thickened Phyto like what I used at first to maintain our rotifers will deteriorate like any other food source if not consumed by something. One of the reasons the brand I used had an ammonia neutralizer in it. I dose our live blend to them, actually my loving wife @Ocean_Queenie doses them twice a day as I will pretty much forget to breath if she doesn’t remind me. And don’t have any ammonia issues. If you are culturing it and it is live, or buying from a good source I don’t know why. What test kit are you using?

 

[Outlaw Corals]

I don’t know why my nitrate is so high and i can’t get it down at all, I did a big water change, I cut feeding my fish down to twice a week, I feed my Corals Phyto five times a week and stopped feeding them the dry foods, and I have been micro dosing bacteria every night, and my nitrate is stuck at 50, my phosphates are low and I have no nuisance algae. It just makes no sense.

This

 

[Reef By Steele]

This

That is a live product. I think the dosing is a little light. I recommend minimum of 1 ml per gallon of system actual water volume. 2 if stocked with corals and 3 if clams feather duster or NPS corals. The four he lists are the 4 I planned to start with, but I ordered F/2 off of Amazon and they sent me a fifth strain instead so I added it to what I was starting from my mentor. As our volume increased we added additional strain to have more available vs doubling up, as every one has a little different nutritional profile and they vary in cell size so some organisms prefer one over the other.

I don’t know their product personally, or their process. We harvest, package and ship with in a day, two tops. B’s pre harvesting and refrigerating. I believe it provides the healthiest and growing product, but I don’t have anything but anecdotal experience for that statement.

 

[KenBabich]

What is the shelf life of the phytoplankton? Does it need to be stored in refrigerator? I have 50 gallon tank so it would be awhile before bottle contents is used.

 

[Reef By Steele]

What is the shelf life of the phytoplankton? Does it need to be stored in refrigerator? I have 50 gallon tank so it would be awhile before bottle contents is used.

Industry standard is up to 3 months refrigerated, but I recommend 4-5 weeks.
Our recommended dosing schedule is 1-2 ml per gallon of system water each day. 3 ml per day if you have lots of filter feeders or NPS. 3785 ml per gallon, so a 1/2 gallon would last you around 5 weeks at 1 ml per gallon.

 

[GlassMunky]

Stoked to get my order of phyto in the mail today.

 

[Reef By Steele]

Stoked to get my order of phyto in the mail today.

We are stoked for you to get it too. Let us know when you get it. And be sure to look through the packing list. Shhhhhhh it’s a surprise.

 

[Captain-Barnacle]

Sounds interesting, you would probably have to provide initial phyto to the system. Question I would have though, is what keeps your reactor to only producing phytoplankton and not nuisance algae?

My understanding of an aquarium micro-biome is that already contains a long list of species in a latent background populations, and that as the balances change, theses species grow or shrink in population. A tank could be seeded with ideal phyto at the start and then a suitably sized bioreactor loop would tend to reflect the tank's biome rather than veer off into an uncontrolled toxic state. It's true that this idea competes with the idea of perpetually adding a commercial phyto dose, but someone could create value by producing an optimized bioreactor.

I am slowly developing a theory and style of interconnected aquarium biome loops, where most imbalances are treated by adjusting the parameters (salinity, pH, temp, etc.) and flows between them, with a sort of valve-tubing-manifold spider-nexus. Anything that gets out of hand is suppressed or that needs support is treated simply by flow changes. May even hoist pico-tanks relative to each other to siphon dosing flow in any direction.

This is a model of what I want to do with aquariums, a water-based Reservoir Computer that embodies differential equations of dosing.

 

[Reef By Steele]

My understanding of an aquarium micro-biome is that already contains a long list of species in a latent background populations, and that as the balances change, theses species grow or shrink in population. A tank could be seeded with ideal phyto at the start and then a suitably sized bioreactor loop would tend to reflect the tank's biome rather than veer off into an uncontrolled toxic state. It's true that this idea competes with the idea of perpetually adding a commercial phyto dose, but someone could create value by producing an optimized bioreactor.

I am slowly developing a theory and style of interconnected aquarium biome loops, where most imbalances are treated by adjusting the parameters (salinity, pH, temp, etc.) and flows between them, with a sort of valve-tubing-manifold nexus.

That sounds interesting. As to aquariums having these parts of the biome, really depends in my understanding as to how it was started. If everything was started from dry, synthetic salt, and every addition QT’d and or dipped, I believe there would not be a large variety of marine phyto present. Thus the need to provide an initial supply. As for whether it would propagate negatives, seeing as how we end up with Dino’s, Cyano, and other algae from some source, I believe it would need to be considered and if present, some type of control would be needed to be implemented. I would think that just like in the Ocean if we achieved a near perfect environment and water parameters the phyto would be self sustained just in the system itself.
The creation of such a system as you are describing could be a real boon to the aquarium trade. I would think that it would be in use in certain aquaculture endeavors, and the person who develops it would probably become a billionaire as I can see oyster and clam propagation facilities would install them, as they use tons of specific strains like Pheaodactylum for maxima breeders. They would be able to have a constant and automatic supply. Shrimp breeders also would thrive.

 

[LosGatosMax]

I’m considering setting up a small fridge next to my sump with a DOS able to add through out the day. I haven’t done the math yet on tube length x volume x velocity to determine the amount of time the phyto will spend at room temp before making it into the return portion of the sump. However imagine worst case it was 12 hours, would that be an issue? I guess I could run the DOS backward after each time but might cause other issues will fouling up the line overtime I would like to avoid.

 

[Reef By Steele]

I’m considering setting up a small fridge next to my sump with a DOS able to add through out the day. I haven’t done the math yet on tube length x volume x velocity to determine the amount of time the phyto will spend at room temp before making it into the return portion of the sump. However imagine worst case it was 12 hours, would that be an issue? I guess I could run the DOS backward after each time but might cause other issues will fouling up the line overtime I would like to avoid.

Those are some good questions. I have wondered about the same thing. I saw a thread on here about a DIY auto feeder for frozen food. Big take away was they ran clear water through after the food to purge the line. I would consider somehow incorporating an air pump or magnetic stirrer to keep the phyto suspended in the fridge. I don’t think that the room temp issue is a problem as the industry states that live phyto can be stored unrefrigerated for a week or more. But it may settle in the line reducing the flow over time and not providing a consistent mix of product.

 

[Hooz]

You mentioned in one of your other threads that phyto is "survival of the fittest", and one type will take over if they're mixed. Do you think that's an issue in a "phyto cocktail" mix with multiple types in one bottle? If so, how long do you think the "cocktail" is viable before it's overtaken by a single strain?

I'm trying to determine what size bottle I purchase and how frequently based on how much I dose (currently 1ml/gallon in all my nano tanks), and I'd like to time it so I'm finishing a bottle while it's still truly a "multi species blend".

I'm currently using a 16oz bottle in 2 weeks. Bottles are stored in the fridge from the time I receive them, shaken before each use, etc, etc. Just wondering if smaller bottle more frequently would be better, or a single, larger bottle less frequently would work.