Phosphate Limited Nitrate Reduction

Treefer32

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I've had numerous threads on this and probably posted enough content to write a book, the results are by no means definitive, so I could not write anything fully factual...

As many of you know I've switched from 50% water changes (170 gallons of salt water) Monthly to no water changes over the past year and been dosing vodka for a while now.

I feel like I have enough data points to try to come to some conclusions. First I had tried reducing how much vodka I dose from 70ml per day down to 55 ml per day. The end result swas a a steady remaining the same to rise in nitrates and a direct correlatory rise in phosphates. As noted in the charts below. My Nitrates had risen from a stead average of 29 prior to May, to a median level of 36ppm, topping out at 44 ppm in June 22nd.

Phosphates climbed from .25 to .4 then bottomed out at .04 then rose between May and June to .36. Some of the fluctuation between May and August was due to having to intermittently dose Phosphate E to get the phosphates out of the rocks. I was dosing between 7 and 12 ml per day for a few weeks there to get it under control. In August, they rose steadily when I stopped dosing phosphate e and peaked at .4 ppm again. July to Current I increased my dosing back up from 55 ml per day to close to 80 ml per day of vodka. And no dosing of any phosphate E.

The interesting correlation there is that nitrates have stopped increasing or decreasing (by much, remaining stead between 23 and 29 on average), while phosphates are remaining steady at between .0 and .1 For close to the last month with a spike last week at .22, which I don't know why at all that occurred. Unless it was a testing error.

So, can someone with more expertise help me understand why phosphates continue fluctuating much more erratically than nitrates, and nitrates are remaining for the most part, in my opinion, the same week to week.

I know there is so much bacteria in my tank, because bacterial slime is covering all of my gyre blades, plugging the teeth on my overflows, the paper of my Red Sea Reef mat 1200 is cover in slime. The output of the reef mat has globs of gelatinous slimes on it. I put a cone filter on my return bulk head to prevent larger objects going into my external return pump (after I found zip ties bound up inside my pump a while ago) and that gets covered in bacterial slime as well. Slime floats on the return side of my sump, that slime is pinkish brown.

My skimmer constantly is pulling out brown and black colored water. I suspect there's so much bacteria in my water column that I don't know what to do with. I'm going through a roll of paper every 10 -14 days right now and that's been running 3 months.
A filter sock would plug up and over flow within 24 hours. I'd have to change them every 12 hours to keep water flowing through them.

I also run a 25 micron cannister filter (from Marine and Reef) It's not a typical cannister filter, but when I pull the cartridge out the pleated paper is covered in slime and globs of slime come out of it as I spray it out.

The plus side is my xenia garden is dieing off. I assume because of the lack of phosphates or because there's too much bacteria in the water.


What I need to know, I think... Is do I need to increase Vodka dosing (I'd be up to 100 ml per day if I increase it much) to reduce nitrates? Or is there a part of the equation I'm missing? I've ordered another Triton ICP test to ensure my testing is all valid. Any suggestions appreciated as I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or this is just the cycle of a reef? My PH is hitting 7.93 at night and 8.1 during the day. It used to bottom out at 8.1 and max out between 8.3 and 8.4.


My alk is remaining steadily the same. Almost exactly the same week to week month to month. So, no increased uptake of alk. If anything, I've had to back off on dosing alkalinity.

Tank is 340 gallon display with 75 gallon sump, Skimmer, Algae turf scrubber, dosing baked baking soda, Calcium, and all for reef and lots of vodka. using the Red Sea Reef mat 1200 and 25 micron Cannister filter as well as probably around 150-200 lbs of live rock and 200 lbs of sand. Entire system is 4 years old.
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jbrady429

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Bacteria in the tank are feeding on nitrates, phosphates, and carbon (provided by the vodka). There is far less phosphate in the water than nitrate or carbon, so the phosphate levels vary much more than nitrate levels. You said that you have had to back off of alkalinity dosing a bit. That’s because alkalinity is produced by the bacterial denitrification process.

It sounds like you have tons of bacteria growing in your tank. Given that nitrate levels are still above 0, there is more nitrate going into the tank or being produced in the tank than even the large bacteria population can consume. If you’re dosing nitrates, you don’t need to. If you’re not dosing nitrates, then you have a bunch of stuff going into the tank that’s producing them. Do you have a large fish population? That would require a good deal of feeding which would produce a lot of nitrates and some phosphates.
 

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I've had numerous threads on this and probably posted enough content to write a book, the results are by no means definitive, so I could not write anything fully factual...

As many of you know I've switched from 50% water changes (170 gallons of salt water) Monthly to no water changes over the past year and been dosing vodka for a while now.

I feel like I have enough data points to try to come to some conclusions. First I had tried reducing how much vodka I dose from 70ml per day down to 55 ml per day. The end result swas a a steady remaining the same to rise in nitrates and a direct correlatory rise in phosphates. As noted in the charts below. My Nitrates had risen from a stead average of 29 prior to May, to a median level of 36ppm, topping out at 44 ppm in June 22nd.

Phosphates climbed from .25 to .4 then bottomed out at .04 then rose between May and June to .36. Some of the fluctuation between May and August was due to having to intermittently dose Phosphate E to get the phosphates out of the rocks. I was dosing between 7 and 12 ml per day for a few weeks there to get it under control. In August, they rose steadily when I stopped dosing phosphate e and peaked at .4 ppm again. July to Current I increased my dosing back up from 55 ml per day to close to 80 ml per day of vodka. And no dosing of any phosphate E.

The interesting correlation there is that nitrates have stopped increasing or decreasing (by much, remaining stead between 23 and 29 on average), while phosphates are remaining steady at between .0 and .1 For close to the last month with a spike last week at .22, which I don't know why at all that occurred. Unless it was a testing error.

So, can someone with more expertise help me understand why phosphates continue fluctuating much more erratically than nitrates, and nitrates are remaining for the most part, in my opinion, the same week to week.

I know there is so much bacteria in my tank, because bacterial slime is covering all of my gyre blades, plugging the teeth on my overflows, the paper of my Red Sea Reef mat 1200 is cover in slime. The output of the reef mat has globs of gelatinous slimes on it. I put a cone filter on my return bulk head to prevent larger objects going into my external return pump (after I found zip ties bound up inside my pump a while ago) and that gets covered in bacterial slime as well. Slime floats on the return side of my sump, that slime is pinkish brown.

My skimmer constantly is pulling out brown and black colored water. I suspect there's so much bacteria in my water column that I don't know what to do with. I'm going through a roll of paper every 10 -14 days right now and that's been running 3 months.
A filter sock would plug up and over flow within 24 hours. I'd have to change them every 12 hours to keep water flowing through them.

I also run a 25 micron cannister filter (from Marine and Reef) It's not a typical cannister filter, but when I pull the cartridge out the pleated paper is covered in slime and globs of slime come out of it as I spray it out.

The plus side is my xenia garden is dieing off. I assume because of the lack of phosphates or because there's too much bacteria in the water.


What I need to know, I think... Is do I need to increase Vodka dosing (I'd be up to 100 ml per day if I increase it much) to reduce nitrates? Or is there a part of the equation I'm missing? I've ordered another Triton ICP test to ensure my testing is all valid. Any suggestions appreciated as I don't know if I'm doing something wrong or this is just the cycle of a reef? My PH is hitting 7.93 at night and 8.1 during the day. It used to bottom out at 8.1 and max out between 8.3 and 8.4.


My alk is remaining steadily the same. Almost exactly the same week to week month to month. So, no increased uptake of alk. If anything, I've had to back off on dosing alkalinity.

Tank is 340 gallon display with 75 gallon sump, Skimmer, Algae turf scrubber, dosing baked baking soda, Calcium, and all for reef and lots of vodka. using the Red Sea Reef mat 1200 and 25 micron Cannister filter as well as probably around 150-200 lbs of live rock and 200 lbs of sand. Entire system is 4 years old.
View attachment 2845319


View attachment 2845321
Still pondering your questions. I am curious why the Xenia are dying. I thought they were fairly hardy soft coral. Maybe the die off is not a good sign.
 
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Crustaceon

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The thing with carbon dosing is you cannot at any time allow the system to bottom out on phosphates. If you do, it'll stop any nitrate reduction and will typically result in an increase in nitrates until phosphate levels stabilize again. If you dose phosphates manually, you may have to do it two-three times a day because now phosphate-limited bacteria will consume it that quickly until there's a "reserve" left in the system for normal bacterial activity. I've had this happen a few times and had to manually raise phosphates to .1 on a daily basis from .02ppm because the carbon source was still in the system and was fueling bacteria growth the moment more phosphate was added. It caused all kinds of issues in my tank, which is why I went back to water changes. Carbon dosing can really bite you if you don't test on a daily basis.
 
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Treefer32

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Yeah, I have several large fish that are quite possibly outgrowing even a 340 gallon.
A Caribbean blue tang that is easily 10-12 inches in diameter and he's fat. A male Creole Anthia that is eating his way to 12" long (probably 8-10" right now) A female Creole Anthia at around half his size 5-6 inches in length. Some smaller Angela, Swallowtail, Bellas, and Lemarack Angel. The Lemarack angel is larger in the 6-7" range and fat. A couple other tangs - An adult mimic tang and a 7-8 year old black long nose tang. a 2 -3 year old copperband butterfly fish. A Dragon Wrasse that is going on 7-8" long and easily 3-4 years old.

In total 20 fish, which I don't feel is overpopulated for 340 gallons, but at least 5-7 of them are over 6-7" in length and fat. The male creole anthia will swallow 3-4 ounces of food whole (Stretching his mouth to fit over large chunks of frozen food and literally swallowing it whole. ) At times I have to feed 5-6 ounces of frozen because the male Creole Anthia will eat everything out of my hand. So I have to get more and try to disperse it through the tank so other fish can get some. I also feed a whole sheet of nori per day.

It sounds like the only option to continue managing / reducing nitrates is to increase Vodka dosing.

My Dragon wrasse constantly digs in the sand bed moving rocks and sand piles around, would he be releasing denitrifying bacteria into the water column? reducing it's ability to remove nitrates? I'm thinking of getting rid of him, wondering what the result of an undisturbed 4" sand bed would have on nitrates? Vs. constantly being stirred multiple times a day?

It's crazy to think I'm going through a bottle of vodka every 10 days or so and start dosing more.
 
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Treefer32

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Still pondering your questions. I am curious why the Xenia are dying. I thought they were fairly hardy soft coral. Maybe the die off is not a good sign.
I think the Xenia are dieing due to the lack of phosphates. Would be my guess. They started receding as soon as phosphates started hitting consistently under .1 ppm.
 
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Treefer32

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The thing with carbon dosing is you cannot at any time allow the system to bottom out on phosphates. If you do, it'll stop any nitrate reduction and will typically result in an increase in nitrates until phosphate levels stabilize again. If you dose phosphates manually, you may have to do it two-three times a day because now phosphate-limited bacteria will consume it that quickly until there's a "reserve" left in the system for normal bacterial activity. I've had this happen a few times and had to manually raise phosphates to .1 on a daily basis from .02ppm because the carbon source was still in the system and was fueling bacteria growth the moment more phosphate was added. It caused all kinds of issues in my tank, which is why I went back to water changes. Carbon dosing can really bite you if you don't test on a daily basis.
Ugg. Yeah, there's been a couple times now phosphates hit 0.00 on the Hanna tester. I don't know how often nitrates rise, but doing water changes was not economical for me. 50% water change every 2 weeks, reduced nitrates from 40 to 20 for about 5 days, then they were back up to 40 and I would need to do close to 50% weekly to keep it "managed". Going through a bucket of salt Weekly or every two weeks, just wasn't feesible. $20-30 a month for vodka, or $200 a month in Salt. That doesn't include the cost of water and/or time to do that many large water changes.

I could build an AWC system, but I'm not sure if changing out 3-5 gallons of water a day would really impact the nitrate production.
 

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Ugg. Yeah, there's been a couple times now phosphates hit 0.00 on the Hanna tester. I don't know how often nitrates rise, but doing water changes was not economical for me. 50% water change every 2 weeks, reduced nitrates from 40 to 20 for about 5 days, then they were back up to 40 and I would need to do close to 50% weekly to keep it "managed". Going through a bucket of salt Weekly or every two weeks, just wasn't feesible. $20-30 a month for vodka, or $200 a month in Salt. That doesn't include the cost of water and/or time to do that many large water changes.

I could build an AWC system, but I'm not sure if changing out 3-5 gallons of water a day would really impact the nitrate production.
Have you considered a weekly 5% water change instead? I went from a weekly 10% down to that on my 200g system and maintain at 5ppm nitrates and this is being stocked with good sized fish. I honestly think 10% is overkill so yeah... 25% would definitely be in that category.
 

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The "slime" is bacteria not being removed from the system. If not removed, it will simply returns nutrients to the system when it dies. The nutrients returned include carbon. You are adding carbon via the Vodka. Your algae turf scrubber adds carbon to the system while binding the N&P needed for the carbon dosing to work. All that carbon encourages more bacteria to keep the circle going. It also forms organic compounds which the skimmer must remove in lieu of bacteria. Fluctuations in inorganic nutrient levels are simply a snapshot of what is not bound in bacteria at the time. Reducing Vodka input, manually removing the slime, and/or dialing back the ATS might be indicated.
 
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Treefer32

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The "slime" is bacteria not being removed from the system. If not removed, it will simply returns nutrients to the system when it dies. The nutrients returned include carbon. You are adding carbon via the Vodka. Your algae turf scrubber adds carbon to the system while binding the N&P needed for the carbon dosing to work. All that carbon encourages more bacteria to keep the circle going. It also forms organic compounds which the skimmer must remove in lieu of bacteria. Fluctuations in inorganic nutrient levels are simply a snapshot of what is not bound in bacteria at the time. Reducing Vodka input, manually removing the slime, and/or dialing back the ATS might be indicated.
That's exactly the feedback I needed from someone with a better understanding than of the process. I agree the ATS is counter to the vodka dosing, at the same time, it couldn't keep up with my nutrients. So, it's a matter of finding the right balance maybe?

I am removing a lot of slime via the reef mat. So, some is getting exported (possibly a lot!) But I may be producing more than can be removed in a day.

That said, it makes sense to dial back the vodka dosing. I'll start off by reducing by 12 ml per day (I just calculated it, I was at 72 ml per day.) I lowered it to 60 ml per day.

I'm planning to do a larger 50% water change this weekend to remove as much as I can from the water column. Clean as much as I can, and monitor for 2 weeks to see where nitrates end up without as much dosing.

If there's other suggestions, I'm open to them as well! I could try 5% water changes a week, I just don't know that would have any impact on water quality. I may try it anyways. But, I'm not convinced 5-10% a week are enough.
 

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I get some slime in my sump's return section. I use a net to remove it. Easy export.

The reef mat may just be trapping and killing the bacteria. The nutrients are released back into the water column. What happens if you stop using it?
 
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Treefer32

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I get some slime in my sump's return section. I use a net to remove it. Easy export.

The reef mat may just be trapping and killing the bacteria. The nutrients are released back into the water column. What happens if you stop using it?
Ha! I tried going without this summer. My water gets extremely cloudy and hazy. I can't see to the back of the tank. (it's 3 feet wide and 6 feet long). It's like my fish are swimming in a dense fog. With the reef mat I can see through the entire tank and water actually remains clear. I also lost my hammers and a frog spawn when I wasn't running some type of filter sock. I had a frag of purple hammers grow from 1 head to 20 heads, then they all died this summer when I stopped using filter socks and/ or a reef mat. the heads receded and they died one after the other. The only LPS thriving right now are my Duncans and 2 Gonipora frags (go figure) and 2 different frags of Candy Canes, and a Fungia plate coral. Those are all doing great. Anything fleshy like frog spawn or hammers, has died. I have close to 40 skeletons of hammers that died including my favorite gold and orange hammers.
 

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Ha! I tried going without this summer. My water gets extremely cloudy and hazy. I can't see to the back of the tank. (it's 3 feet wide and 6 feet long). It's like my fish are swimming in a dense fog. With the reef mat I can see through the entire tank and water actually remains clear.
Reducing the carbon input will help solve that. You have a lot of bacteria and DOC in the water column. Check out DIY Coral Snow by @SunnyX. It helps with the excess DOC and is simple and safe.

Think about nutrient export pathways. They start with an input of nitrogen, carbon, or phosphate and end when the nutrient: 1) Is bound in biomass that is exported i.e. skimmed, bound in bacteria or algae growth that is exported, or otherwise manually removed from the water column before it dies and is decomposed; 2) Is bound in tissue growth of organisms that do not die; 3) Is exported as nitrogen gas; or 4) At least temporarily, is bound to carbonate based substrates. Any time you interrupt these pathways, nutrient levels will rise. Your Reef Mat is interrupting one of the pathways by trapping the slime in the water column. The other slime that is not being exported either and interrupting a pathway.
 
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Treefer32

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I was thinking the slime on the roller mat is exporting the dead bacteria. Same with the skimmer. I just ordered calcium Carbonate. I'll give anything a try once. All my years of reefing, I've never heard of it. I'll try that and a larger water change and reduce the vodka dosing. Probably a lot at once, I feel like something in my water is getting toxic to my corals.
 

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The "slime" is bacteria not being removed from the system. If not removed, it will simply returns nutrients to the system when it dies. The nutrients returned include carbon. You are adding carbon via the Vodka. Your algae turf scrubber adds carbon to the system while binding the N&P needed for the carbon dosing to work. All that carbon encourages more bacteria to keep the circle going. It also forms organic compounds which the skimmer must remove in lieu of bacteria. Fluctuations in inorganic nutrient levels are simply a snapshot of what is not bound in bacteria at the time. Reducing Vodka input, manually removing the slime, and/or dialing back the ATS might be indicated.

I was gonna say too that a bacterial slime everywhere is not normal for carbon dosing (working properly) lol
 
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Reducing the carbon input will help solve that. You have a lot of bacteria and DOC in the water column. Check out DIY Coral Snow by @SunnyX. It helps with the excess DOC and is simple and safe.

Think about nutrient export pathways. They start with an input of nitrogen, carbon, or phosphate and end when the nutrient: 1) Is bound in biomass that is exported i.e. skimmed, bound in bacteria or algae growth that is exported, or otherwise manually removed from the water column before it dies and is decomposed; 2) Is bound in tissue growth of organisms that do not die; 3) Is exported as nitrogen gas; or 4) At least temporarily, is bound to carbonate based substrates. Any time you interrupt these pathways, nutrient levels will rise. Your Reef Mat is interrupting one of the pathways by trapping the slime in the water column. The other slime that is not being exported either and interrupting a pathway.

Wouldn't any slime drained into the roller mat be pushed into the fleece, then rolled out of the water along with the detritus and uneaten food?
 

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Wouldn't any slime drained into the roller mat be pushed into the fleece, then rolled out of the water along with the detritus and uneaten food?
My bad. I meant the canister filter not the reef mat.

I just ordered calcium Carbonate. I'll give anything a try once. All my years of reefing, I've never heard of it. I'll try that and a larger water change and reduce the vodka dosing. Probably a lot at once, I feel like something in my water is getting toxic to my corals.
I use the DIY Coral Snow (with MB7 added) after taking a Turkey Baster to the rocks, cleaning the glass, and disturbing the little bit of sand I have in the tank. I leave the wave makers running but turn off the return pump. I add the Coral Snow and let it blow around for a couple hours. Some will settle out. The water will clear some in that time but remain cloudy. After that I turn the return pump on and let the water clear. Then I do the water change. I mix 10 tablespoons of the calcium carbonate to RODI water to make 1000ml. Of that, I use 50ml and add it to a cup of tank water that has 20ml of MB7 in it. I then add all of that to the tank. The tank will be a translucent milky white. The MB7 is said to be a Cyano prevention measure. You don't have to use it. The clarity comes from the calcium carbonate. It is safe to use the calcium carbonate solution daily if you like.
 
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Treefer32

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Do you monitor and correct your trace elements? Bacteria needs trace elements to grow and function as well and maybe you are limited more there.
I do an icp test once a year usually in the January time frame. They've never been low but I have one on the way to test things out. I just did a 150 gallon water change and so much slime in the sump and display. Tried to get it out with a net. I've decreased dosing. As for travel elements I've been using all for reef. I'm switching back to red sea a,b,c,d trace elements. My corals we're way more colorful with those than with all for reef.
 
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@ReefGeezer I mixed up 5 teaspoons of 97% calcium Carbonate with 230 ml RO Water. I turned my return pump, skimmer on to feed cycle, and left the 4 gyres and 2 MP40s running when I dosed 30 ml into my 340 gallon display.

I let it sit for 20 minutes (feed timer setting on the apex) and WOW! Stuff came out of the wood work... well, water work... The weirdest thing is my gyres had some much slime and crap come off them it was crazy. strings of stuff were shooting from them. My Chalice SLIMED Up so bad! It had dozens and dozens strings of slime released and they congregated at my over flow boxes when the return pump turned back on.

So many particles were released from everywhere it was amazing. So, much pink slime surfaced. It was unbelievable how much pink (bacterial) slime was released from everywhere and how much pure white slime released from the rocks. Strings were extending from most of the rocks to the surface....

What does calcium carbonate do that releases all this crap literally from the rock work?

P.s. After a 50% water change last week, and reduced vodka dosing from 73ml per day down to 60 ml per day, I'm sitting at nitrates of 14 and phosphates at .05. I've got my ICP test kit today as well. I'm going to wait until the calcium carbonate is out of the water column before I take a water sample. I probably should have taken the water sample before dosing the calcium carbonate. Oh well, I can do it tomorrow.

Any thoughts on why so much weird crap came out of the rock work or why my massive 3 tiered chalice flooded the water column with slime?
 

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