Options For Removing Overflow

[Cable]

Hello everyone,

I love my reef tank but absolutely hate the overflow placement. (Pic attached below)

It seems that the overflow itself is just attached via silicone to the glass wall and floor.

I am considering plugging the two drilled holes at the bottom and purchasing an overflow kit that does not require drilling. I would prefer to not empty the tank for whatever operation I decided to go with.

I would utilize the current holes if any one has experience or creative ideas that could allow me to remove the ugly overflow box out of the middle.

Any feedback would be much appreciated!

 

[MnFish1]

I would not recommend considering doing what you're doing mainly due to integrity of the tank itself - I would merely buy a new (or used) tank - which could probably be had for a small amount. I do not see an easy/safe way to do it without draining the tank.

I have some ideas of what you could possibly do - but, I think you're going to end up with a back of the tank thats just as 'ugly' (to you) as the current set up. You could consider allowing coral to grow in front of that area, etc.

 

[Vivid Creative Aquatics]

Its definitely doable. I did it on our current office tank. I cut out the internal overflow box, and converted the existing holes to a closed loop

I will say it was a pretty tough job, and I can't imagine doing it while the tank was full.

To remove the overflow box, it requires a long thin razor blade like a utility knife and some strong fishing line. the knife was to get the cut started and the hard to reach areas and the line was use to cut through the silicon along the long sides.

Take a section of the fishing line (12 inches would be enough), tie two handles to either side and use it to "slice" through the silicone like a saw.

The bottom seal was the toughest , since the only option there was t use the knife.

either way - the overflow box is just silicone and can be removed. As far as i could tell, the tank structure itself didn't require the overflow box for the overall integrity of the tank. but then, like I said, I did this while the tank was empty.

 

[Cable]

Thanks yeah I do agree that doing this while the tank is full is probably to risky.... might be an "excuse" to get a new tank that's bigger.

Thanks for the replies!

 

[YOYOYOReefer]

A cheap disposable harbor fright air tool or long arms and a hacksaw blade. Just cap the bottom holes first.

 

[Dburr1014]

Its definitely doable. I did it on our current office tank. I cut out the internal overflow box, and converted the existing holes to a closed loop

I will say it was a pretty tough job, and I can't imagine doing it while the tank was full.

To remove the overflow box, it requires a long thin razor blade like a utility knife and some strong fishing line. the knife was to get the cut started and the hard to reach areas and the line was use to cut through the silicon along the long sides.

Take a section of the fishing line (12 inches would be enough), tie two handles to either side and use it to "slice" through the silicone like a saw.

The bottom seal was the toughest , since the only option there was t use the knife.

either way - the overflow box is just silicone and can be removed. As far as i could tell, the tank structure itself didn't require the overflow box for the overall integrity of the tank. but then, like I said, I did this while the tank was empty.

To add to this, I don't trust the hang on's.
I would rather paint the back black and use black pipe if you cut out the overflow. It would hide it pretty well until it gets covered in coraline/coral.

 

[Cable]

To add to this, I don't trust the hang on's.
I would rather paint the back black and use black pipe if you cut out the overflow. It would hide it pretty well until it gets covered in coraline/coral.

I'm honestly fine with having pipe exposed to the view as long as I could have some visibility from the back (picture I took). I don't actually mind the overflow placement from front of the tank my main issue is the tank is "horizontally placed" with the overflow side attached to my desk. I'm attaching a better picture. This was my first tank so I didn't really understand overflow options. I plan on keeping it for 2 more years when I hopefully can buy a bigger house and get a 150 gallon.

I apologize but could you elaborate on how I could not use a hang in back overflow if I decided to remove the current overflow barrier? I am interested.

Thanks!

 

[Dburr1014]

I apologize but could you elaborate on how I could not use a hang in back overflow if I decided to remove the current overflow barrier? I am interested.

Thanks!

I'm not saying you can't use a hang on.
What I said is "I don't trust hang on's"

I have had one fail. Stopped syphoning. But it didn't tell the pump to stop pumping. Know what I mean?

 

[Cable]

I'm not saying you can't use a hang on.
What I said is "I don't trust hang on's"

I have had one fail. Stopped syphoning. But it didn't tell the pump to stop pumping. Know what I mean?

Makes sense. I guess my question is if I cut out the overflow and did not use a hang on what would my options be for "safe" water transfer from tank to sump.

 

[Dburr1014]

Makes sense. I guess my question is if I cut out the overflow and did not use a hang on what would my options be for "safe" water transfer from tank to sump.

Use existing holes, hang on, or drill new holes. These are the only options.
Out of the 3, my choice would be use the existing overflow. 2nd would be use black pipe and paint the back black. 3rd, confirm the glass is not tempered and drill for a new one. 4th, not have a tank because I got burned on a hang on before.

IMO, these are my choices. What would yours be?

 

[saltcreep74]

I actually did this with my 75 gallon I picked up used from a trusted reefer... in Cali. I was too cheap to purchase a new one and had the reef itch to return after a 7 year hiatus from the hobby so I pulled the trigger and purchased a used rimless tank.

After a week or so in the garage I tore out the old overflow box.. cleaned off all the silicone around the edges with a razor blade and got to work. With the left over glass from the overflow box, I scored 2 - 2x3 pieces of glass than cleaned them really good. Next, I covered the holes, both top and bottom side with silicone, sandwiched them using both pieces of glass and then silicone all around the edges of the glass.

Let them dry for 2 days, filled the tank with water for a leak test...waited another 2 days to see if there were any leaks then emptied the tank and started on building myself the stand and plumbing.

That was about 4 months ago...just recently added my first softy corals and so far hasn't been any issues.

Obviously, my preference would be to buy a new tank and stand but my reef bug got the better of me... my only comment regarding your plan is absolutely yes..it can be done...however, I would strongly recommend that you empty the tank first before you do the work...trying to do that type of work while you have everything inside the tank is ballsy...

Also, I would recommend with getting an external box overflow like I did... Drilling 1 hole is easy... the Fiji Cube OF box are pretty good... you are already doing all that work...might as well finish it right. Those old CPR overflows look lame...

Good luck!

 

[Cable]

Use existing holes, hang on, or drill new holes. These are the only options.
Out of the 3, my choice would be use the existing overflow. 2nd would be use black pipe and paint the back black. 3rd, confirm the glass is not tempered and drill for a new one. 4th, not have a tank because I got burned on a hang on before.

IMO, these are my choices. What would yours be?

Not sure yet... Realizing how big of a job this will be with a full tank. I guess it depends on how crazy it drives me over the next few months ha