One week of Cyano growth (insane)

[Mikemilly245]

Little update on my cyano situation… first picture is April 10. Second is 7 days later today on April 17th.

Been slowly ramping down on lights, they’re now at: Sunrise 10:00 am Sunset 6pm 90 minute ramp time on each. Today I plan on scraping it off again during the water change but just wanted your guys input/ thoughts on this..
Also can I really shut the lights off for a couple of days with corals/fish in the tank? Everything will be fine?

 

[Mikemilly245]

Bump

 

[bushdoc]

As far as your lights are, you can turn them off for few days totally. I would suggest 3 days and then set photoperiod to 6-8 h with blue only spectrum if you have this possibility.
Decreasing nutrients would be next thing as I suspect that they might be high- water changes, decreasing feeding. Increasing flow if you have this possibility.

 

[kbnh]

You could use chemiclean to get rid of a big amount of the cyano but decreasing nutrients is the better option as chemiclean will affect the bacteria in your tank to an extent, I’d say if it starts engulfing your corals then use chemiclean, if not then go the natural route if you can.

 

[Mikemilly245]

As far as your lights are, you can turn them off for few days totally. I would suggest 3 days and then set photoperiod to 6-8 h with blue only spectrum if you have this possibility.
Decreasing nutrients would be next thing as I suspect that they might be high- water changes, decreasing feeding. Increasing flow if you have this possibility.

I’ve heard increasing flow helps it’s just such a small tank or else I’d add a larger power head.

 

[Mikemilly245]

You could use chemiclean to get rid of a big amount of the cyano but decreasing nutrients is the better option as chemiclean will affect the bacteria in your tank to an extent, I’d say if it starts engulfing your corals then use chemiclean, if not then go the natural route if you can.

I agree chemiclean is the last straw for me, don’t want to do that unless I absolutely have to

 

[Hoopla]

I’ve heard increasing flow helps it’s just such a small tank or else I’d add a larger power head.

Yes! Definitely increase flow, you can wave at cyano and it flies off, so if there’s constant flow it won’t grow.

 

[sixty_reefer]

What’s your residual no3 and po4

 

[taricha]

When I've had a large amount of GHA that is stressed or dying, it fuels the strongest most thorough cyano mats. @Dan_P and I have talked about this happening a number of times.
It looks like that may be the pattern here as well.

 

[air_run]

Also, When you see that stuff, siphon it out using a 1/4" acrylic tube with 1/4" silicone use. Siphon it into a filter sock and pour water back in if not doing a water change. Manual removal will help tremendously during combating this.

 

[Dan_P]

When I've had a large amount of GHA that is stressed or dying, it fuels the strongest most thorough cyano mats. @Dan_P and I have talked about this happening a number of times.
It looks like that may be the pattern here as well.

Agree. I also wonder whether any stressed algae is capable of fueling aggressive cyanobacteria growth.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Have you seen this?
Thread 'Battling Cyano. New Reefers Please Read!!' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/battling-cyano-new-reefers-please-read.964133/

 

[Mikemilly245]

When I've had a large amount of GHA that is stressed or dying, it fuels the strongest most thorough cyano mats. @Dan_P and I have talked about this happening a number of times.
It looks like that may be the pattern here as well.

Yes I did have a fair amount of GHA and mat algae as well.

 

[Mikemilly245]

Have you seen this?
Thread 'Battling Cyano. New Reefers Please Read!!' https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/battling-cyano-new-reefers-please-read.964133/

I did see that and read it through a little and I’m interested in trying it.. Did a water change today and brushed some off again. I’ll finish cleaning it off tomorrow and snap a pic for another progress shot. Thinking about seeing how much grows this week and if it’s more/ the same I’m going with that method for sure. Just hoping it’s something I can scrape off and will pass on its own.

 

[jabberwock]

32 biocube? Started with dry rock? Manual removal as has been suggested...

 

[vetteguy53081]

Little update on my cyano situation… first picture is April 10. Second is 7 days later today on April 17th. View attachment 3113172View attachment 3113171Been slowly ramping down on lights, they’re now at: Sunrise 10:00 am Sunset 6pm 90 minute ramp time on each. Today I plan on scraping it off again during the water change but just wanted your guys input/ thoughts on this..
Also can I really shut the lights off for a couple of days with corals/fish in the tank? Everything will be fine?

Your biggest issue may be lack of flow and due to basic filtration with these systems, your nitrate and phosphate levels are likely elevated. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water enough, you will have this bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyano and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is a welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check. And mentioned was Protein skimmer. This will help your tank remove organic matter. The ice Cap k1-50 would do well with this tank. (on sale at Coralvue.com)

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

I did see that and read it through a little and I’m interested in trying it.. Did a water change today and brushed some off again. I’ll finish cleaning it off tomorrow and snap a pic for another progress shot. Thinking about seeing how much grows this week and if it’s more/ the same I’m going with that method for sure. Just hoping it’s something I can scrape off and will pass on its own.

I can't recall who, but someone else recently posted about microbubbles getting into their display and the result was significant cyano reduction...

Maybe someone else can link to that thread?

 

[Mikemilly245]

Your biggest issue may be lack of flow and due to basic filtration with these systems, your nitrate and phosphate levels are likely elevated. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water enough, you will have this bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyano and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is a welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check. And mentioned was Protein skimmer. This will help your tank remove organic matter. The ice Cap k1-50 would do well with this tank. (on sale at Coralvue.com)

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

I really think so too on the lack of flow but I already have a Koralia power head in addition to the stock return pump… maybe a bigger one.
About chemipure elite.. does it kill inverts ? Have a shrimp and some snails/ hermits in there already but admittedly need more lol.
Scraped some of the rest off the rocks today. I’ll see the growth rate this week and if it’s not getting any better after adjusting lights I’ll add chemipure if it doesn’t kill inverts, just really hate the idea of adding chemicals.

 

[Mikemilly245]

32 biocube? Started with dry rock? Manual removal as has been suggested...

16 biocube.. scraped a bunch up today and I’ll update this thread in a week with the growth rate

 

[vetteguy53081]

I really think so too on the lack of flow but I already have a Koralia power head in addition to the stock return pump… maybe a bigger one.
About chemipure elite.. does it kill inverts ? Have a shrimp and some snails/ hermits in there already but admittedly need more lol.
Scraped some of the rest off the rocks today. I’ll see the growth rate this week and if it’s not getting any better after adjusting lights I’ll add chemipure if it doesn’t kill inverts, just really hate the idea of adding chemicals.

I use this regularly without issues. Lights off will be your biggest friend with this battle.