Odd wrasse behavior?..

[Kodock]

So this is my first wrasse. Only comes out from maybe 11am-1pm and then goes into hiding. Anyway, it just swims at the top portion of the tank, swimming straight until it runs into the edge of the tank with it’s mouth, then changes direction, like it’s blind. No fading of the eyes or any indication of eye issues. When it gets in the corner where the pellet holder blocks the surface, it opens it’s mouth very wide.

I don’t see it going after any pods or eating.

The craziest thing is it swims by the overflow grate and just lets it suck it against it, eventually relieving itself. I don’t have any oxygen issue, with 8 other fish perfectly fine. I was thinking potential flukes and the overflow giving it more oxygen, but I don’t see any visible indication of flukes and would hate to stress it out more with a dip.

Anyone seen this before? I couldn’t find anything on the overflow behavior. Curious if not a gill issue it has to do with compensating for all that time in the sand, not getting a lot of oxygen, and compensating vs. disease.

 

[Slocke]

The sand sleeping is a sign it’s stressed or getting used to a new day and night schedule. Any bullying going on?

#f#fishmedic@Jay Hemdal

 

[Kodock]

The sand sleeping is a sign it’s stressed or getting used to a new day and night schedule. Any bullying going on?

#f#fishmedic@Jay Hemdal

No bullying, my tang is get a little darty if anything gets near the algae clipper, but no attacks. The tang had been sort of scared of it.

I wanted to think that it was still learning the terrain, but the surface bobbing and having to running into things to change its direction makes me think something else. The overflow grate behavior is beyond strange to me.

 

[Crabby48]

No bullying, my tang is get a little darty if anything gets near the algae clipper, but no attacks. The tang had been sort of scared of it.

I wanted to think that it was still learning the terrain, but the surface bobbing and having to running into things to change its direction makes me think something else. The overflow grate behavior is beyond strange to me.

They don’t need to attack. Stress could be chasing or even the vibe another puts off to a wrasse. Wrasse can be sensitive

 

[MnFish1]

Normally, if a fish is being pulled up against a grate, etc - it is due to an extremely weakened condition. I suppose higher flow sometimes helps relieve symptoms if there is a parasite, etc. but generally speaking thats a bad sign.

Does the fish react at all when you come to the tank - or try to chase it with something (i.e. like a plastic rod) - these can help tell if the fish is blind or having vision problems. How long have you had it - and any other fish showing problems? As I believe someone else mentioned - wrasses may behave very oddly in a new situation. I had a harlequin tusk basically lay on a rock in the open flat for 2-3 days without moving (until the lights went out)

Did you quarantine the fish? (medication)

 

[Kodock]

Normally, if a fish is being pulled up against a grate, etc - it is due to an extremely weakened condition. I suppose higher flow sometimes helps relieve symptoms if there is a parasite, etc. but generally speaking thats a bad sign.

Does the fish react at all when you come to the tank - or try to chase it with something (i.e. like a plastic rod) - these can help tell if the fish is blind or having vision problems. How long have you had it - and any other fish showing problems? As I believe someone else mentioned - wrasses may behave very oddly in a new situation. I had a harlequin tusk basically lay on a rock in the open flat for 2-3 days without moving (until the lights went out)

Did you quarantine the fish? (medication)

I can guide/poke it with my target feeder thing and it doesn’t care at all. After testing “guiding” it. It went back to the overflow grate. No QT, no meds.. Drip acclimated. I know, I know. Had it a week, the new swallowtail and baby blue hippo are doing well, no issues.

I’m thinking I’ll go grab a small tank and do a FW dip and see if any flukes come out. I would have to find the time to educate and resources the properly medicating and QT route.

 

[Kodock]

Normally, if a fish is being pulled up against a grate, etc - it is due to an extremely weakened condition. I suppose higher flow sometimes helps relieve symptoms if there is a parasite, etc. but generally speaking thats a bad sign.

Does the fish react at all when you come to the tank - or try to chase it with something (i.e. like a plastic rod) - these can help tell if the fish is blind or having vision problems. How long have you had it - and any other fish showing problems? As I believe someone else mentioned - wrasses may behave very oddly in a new situation. I had a harlequin tusk basically lay on a rock in the open flat for 2-3 days without moving (until the lights went out)

Did you quarantine the fish? (medication)

Yea, I’m watching it and seems to struggle separating itself from the grate now, so I don’t think it’s voluntary. I’d question why it would continue to expose itself to that spot if so, but I guess if it has a major issue, it can cause such

 

[i cant think]

So this is my first wrasse. Only comes out from maybe 11am-1pm and then goes into hiding. Anyway, it just swims at the top portion of the tank, swimming straight until it runs into the edge of the tank with it’s mouth, then changes direction, like it’s blind. No fading of the eyes or any indication of eye issues. When it gets in the corner where the pellet holder blocks the surface, it opens it’s mouth very wide.

I don’t see it going after any pods or eating.

The craziest thing is it swims by the overflow grate and just lets it suck it against it, eventually relieving itself. I don’t have any oxygen issue, with 8 other fish perfectly fine. I was thinking potential flukes and the overflow giving it more oxygen, but I don’t see any visible indication of flukes and would hate to stress it out more with a dip.

Anyone seen this before? I couldn’t find anything on the overflow behavior. Curious if not a gill issue it has to do with compensating for all that time in the sand, not getting a lot of oxygen, and compensating vs. disease.

Ive got a Foxface that did this, it was odd but the behaviour just randomly stopped. First time I saw him attach to the grate all I saw was his yellow fin and panicked thinking he was dead. That guy then very quickly came to the glass when I was looking at him as he seemed to use it for attention or feeding.

How new is this guy?

 

[Kodock]

Ive got a Foxface that did this, it was odd but the behaviour just randomly stopped. First time I saw him attach to the grate all I saw was his yellow fin and panicked thinking he was dead. That guy then very quickly came to the glass when I was looking at him as he seemed to use it for attention or feeding.

How new is this guy?

Interesting! Only had it a week. Only comes out when the lights come on at 10am, for about 1-2 hours and then gone. Tried to target feed a bunch of things, but no interest, and no chasing pods (that I know of). I hope it’s nothing

 

[i cant think]

Interesting! Only had it a week. Only comes out when the lights come on at 10am, for about 1-2 hours and then gone. Tried to target feed a bunch of things, but no interest, and no chasing pods (that I know of). I hope it’s nothing

Check at night and see if he’s out - it’s not unheard of for wrasses to go to bed early if you haven’t gotten them long. But as Slocke has said, it can also be a bad sign.

Definitely watch that tang though - what species is it? Some are relentless to wrasses, also what other fish are in the tank?

 

[Rappa]

Seems like he is in poor health. I'm no wrasse expert, but I've failed with 2 attempts at a Leopard Wrasse. The first one dove into the sand as soon as I added him to the display. He never came out and I found him floating after two days. The second one dove into the sand for 2 days, then started coming out for short periods of time each day. After a couple of weeks he settled in and seemed to be doing ok. Then he just disappeared and I never saw him again.

I think the sand wrasses get beat up during transit. They are stressed and looking for sand to burrow into, but just keep swimming/diving into the plastic bag. I've seen them come in at the LFS with broken noses, eye damage, and faces all mashed up.

I now quarantine every fish that I buy at least 30 days. I know it's hard to wait but it's worth it. I medicate them in Copper Power, and then a treatment of General Cure towards the end. Gives the fish time to un-wind without the stress of bright lights and other fish darting at them, while making sure any injuries have time to heal and any parasites are killed off/ not introduced to your healthy fish. This way, when you add the new fish to a stressful display tank, they are healthy and more likely to survive getting picked on for a few days. I hope he pulls through for you!

 

[Kodock]

Check at night and see if he’s out - it’s not unheard of for wrasses to go to bed early if you haven’t gotten them long. But as Slocke has said, it can also be a bad sign.

Definitely watch that tang though - what species is it? Some are relentless to wrasses, also what other fish are in the tank?

It’s a Zebrasoma. Gem Tang. They swim right next to each other often. The rest is a swallowtail angelfish, 5 clowns and a 1” blue hippo. It’s really oblivious behavior, just going around blindly, like disoriented, not hiding in one corner.

 

[Kodock]

Seems like he is in poor health. I'm no wrasse expert, but I've failed with 2 attempts at a Leopard Wrasse. The first one dove into the sand as soon as I added him to the display. He never came out and I found him floating after two days. The second one dove into the sand for 2 days, then started coming out for short periods of time each day. After a couple of weeks he settled in and seemed to be doing ok. Then he just disappeared and I never saw him again.

I think the sand wrasses get beat up during transit. They are stressed and looking for sand to burrow into, but just keep swimming/diving into the plastic bag. I've seen them come in at the LFS with broken noses, eye damage, and faces all mashed up.

I now quarantine every fish that I buy at least 30 days. I know it's hard to wait but it's worth it. I medicate them in Copper Power, and then a treatment of General Cure towards the end. Gives the fish time to un-wind without the stress of bright lights and other fish darting at them, while making sure any injuries have time to heal and any parasites are killed off/ not introduced to your healthy fish. This way, when you add the new fish to a stressful display tank, they are healthy and more likely to survive getting picked on for a few days. I hope he pulls through for you!

Thanks!! Yea I should QT, but you would hope that the source you buy it from has already done the necessary scanning and QT for you. Would QT on a sand driven wrasse, without sand not be stressful? I mean I’m sure you can place pvc and other hiding spots, but still.

I know I should setup a solid QT but the wife will blow a gasket if there is another tank taking up a footprint and checklist (and rightfully so.. too many supplies as well)

 

[i cant think]

Thanks!! Yea I should QT, but you would hope that the source you buy it from has already done the necessary scanning and QT for you. Would QT on a sand driven wrasse, without sand not be stressful? I mean I’m sure you can place pvc and other hiding spots, but still.

I know I should setup a solid QT but the wife will blow a gasket if there is another tank taking up a footprint and checklist (and rightfully so.. too many supplies as well)

If I’m honest, I’ve personally never QTed my own fish but I know how controversial it is.
I know they’ve been through some form of medication for example living in Copper at a therapeutic level the whole time they’re in the LFS.

You can QT with sand - I’d do dry sand in a fairly large container. If I’m honest though, if you’re seeing no signs other than that one fish (Flukes and parasites never discriminate) by the end of week 1/start of week 2 disease tends to be shown through your other fish as well.
I’d honestly suspect more of an issue with aggression especially if the tang and wrasse are swimming next to each other - that is often a sign your tang is being a t*** and pinning a fish into one area (in this case the weir).

 

[i cant think]

Also, Zebrasoma species are nasty with aggression but also incredibly secretive with it. You rarely see it unless it’s a Purple - with Gems they always do it behind your back when you least expect it.

 

[Kodock]

If I’m honest, I’ve personally never QTed my own fish but I know how controversial it is.
I know they’ve been through some form of medication for example living in Copper at a therapeutic level the whole time they’re in the LFS.

You can QT with sand - I’d do dry sand in a fairly large container. If I’m honest though, if you’re seeing no signs other than that one fish (Flukes and parasites never discriminate) by the end of week 1/start of week 2 disease tends to be shown through your other fish as well.
I’d honestly suspect more of an issue with aggression especially if the tang and wrasse are swimming next to each other - that is often a sign your tang is being a t*** and pinning a fish into one area (in this case the weir).

I gotcha, thanks! When I say next to, I just mean they cross paths without any acknowledgement, not like a bonded clown, but I’m no marine body language technique specialist.

It’s more like the wrasse is taking laps around the rectangle near the surface, as it passes the return, it pulls him and he just gives in. Maybe he’s up because the tang stays low, but I’ve seen the wrasse go mid-level and sand level, just not as often.

 

[Kodock]

Also, Zebrasoma species are nasty with aggression but also incredibly secretive with it. You rarely see it unless it’s a Purple - with Gems they always do it behind your back when you least expect it.

Yea, the Gem is the first tang I’ve seen/had be a jerk. She still corners the angel when I put the algae clip in. Everything is left alone that isn’t close to her size. I used a mirror and it has dialed back 90%.

I’m going to go get a 5-10gallon qt, FW dip and wait an take it out and observe for a while.

 

[Rappa]

Thanks!! Yea I should QT, but you would hope that the source you buy it from has already done the necessary scanning and QT for you. Would QT on a sand driven wrasse, without sand not be stressful? I mean I’m sure you can place pvc and other hiding spots, but still.

I know I should setup a solid QT but the wife will blow a gasket if there is another tank taking up a footprint and checklist (and rightfully so.. too many supplies as well)

Often, these fish come from the Ocean into the LFS within a few days. Depends on the LFS and where they buy from. I know it's a pain in the rear end but I learned my lesson the hard way unfortunately... I used to do the same thing and only bought healthy looking fish. But Ich can hide itself pretty well. I brought home 3 Firefish and within a week all my tangs had Ich all over them. The Firefish brought it and died within a few days. I had to set up a tank in my sump room as a hospital tank to treat and keep my Tangs and other fish alive. HOB filter, heater, and a power head. All stuff I already had sitting around. I was able to save everything but my Anthias, as they don't seem to do well in copper (for me anyways...) I decided to do a long fallow period to get rid of the Ich in my display tank. It suuuked.

I put 2 small plastic tubs with some fine sand in the QT tank for wrasses, and also some PVC pipes for fish to hide out in. It works for me, as I never want to have to rip my tank apart again to remove all of the fish. It's a good piece of mind knowing that anything I add to my expensive collection of animals won't get them all sick. I'm lucky as I have the room for it though...

 

[MnFish1]

Often, these fish come from the Ocean into the LFS within a few days. Depends on the LFS and where they buy from. I know it's a pain in the rear end but I learned my lesson the hard way unfortunately... I used to do the same thing and only bought healthy looking fish. But Ich can hide itself pretty well. I brought home 3 Firefish and within a week all my tangs had Ich all over them. The Firefish brought it and died within a few days. I had to set up a tank in my sump room as a hospital tank to treat and keep my Tangs and other fish alive. HOB filter, heater, and a power head. All stuff I already had sitting around. I was able to save everything but my Anthias, as they don't seem to do well in copper (for me anyways...) I decided to do a long fallow period to get rid of the Ich in my display tank. It suuuked.

I put 2 small plastic tubs with some fine sand in the QT tank for wrasses, and also some PVC pipes for fish to hide out in. It works for me, as I never want to have to rip my tank apart again to remove all of the fish. It's a good piece of mind knowing that anything I add to my expensive collection of animals won't get them all sick. I'm lucky as I have the room for it though...

I think the key message here is that ich in a high bioload situation - can cause fatality. Many on R2R seem to believe that ich is just an annoyance.

 

[Rappa]

I think the key message here is that ich in a high bioload situation - can cause fatality. Many on R2R seem to believe that ich is just an annoyance.

Yes you are right... I do read those opinions on here all the time. I never understood that rationale to be honest. On my old tank (50 gal) I used to be old school and never QT'd anything. I would just take the risk. All of my dealings with Ich in display tank/reef situations have always been problematic. I obviously don't have to tell you @MnFish1 ... But anyone else reading should know that you can't medicate a reef tank with copper. Sure you can work hard to boost immune systems and use various methods to get past an outbreak... However, I don't enjoy watching my fish die slowly and struggling to breath. From all the research I have done, it seems that even if one is able to defeat the Ich outbreak, it remains in the system, and can show it's face anytime a fish has a low immunity period, or anytime a new fish is introduced into the system (even if the new fish is QT'd beforehand). QT'ing (treating) EVERY new fish ensures that I won't introduce disease into my system. With my new tank (300+ gal system) after a 90 day fallow period, I will never risk it ever again.