Normal TDS & When To Change RO Filters

[LeftyReefer]

What system are you using? Maybe that makes a difference?

Also, $10 in filters? Where are you getting 1 sediment and 2 carbons for $10!? Or did I read wrong? haha

I have a standard 100gpd RODI system, that takes industry standard 10" x 2.5" filters. They are cheaper than the RO buddie proprietary type filter cartridges that your system uses.

You can get 12 packs of standard 5 micron 10" filters (6 carbons, 6 sediments) for around $40 on amazon. comes out to under $7 per sediment and carbon filter swap. I spend a couple extra bucks and get the .5 micron carbon blocks for $7 each now for my second carbon block.

I run a standard 5 micron carbon block, followed by a .5 micron carbon block, so you are right, its actually closer to $13/$14 for my 3 filters of choice.

 

[JSkeleton]

Don't measure TDS in the Brute can.

What is it straight out of the R/O unit? Use a small clean glass.

I measured it in a rinsed pitcher that I've used for other aquarium related things and it was still 4ppm

 

[JSkeleton]

I have a standard 100gpd RODI system, that takes industry standard 10" x 2.5" filters. They are cheaper than the RO buddie proprietary type filter cartridges that your system uses.

You can get 12 packs of standard 5 micron 10" filters (6 carbons, 6 sediments) for around $40 on amazon. comes out to under $7 per sediment and carbon filter swap. I spend a couple extra bucks and get the .5 micron carbon blocks for $7 each now for my second carbon block.

I run a standard 5 micron carbon block, followed by a .5 micron carbon block, so you are right, its actually closer to $13/$14 for my 3 filters of choice.

Oh, gotcha! Interesting. Any idea if I can use those kinds of filters in my system? They sound like they'd save me some money in the long run. I'm in Canada but the Sediment and Carbon are $15 CAD a pop (probably like $15 a piece USD).

 

[Koh23]

20-ish eur here, sediment and carbon cartridges.... 20-ish more for resin...

Once a year.... For something that is probably most important thing in hobby..... Dirt cheap....

 

[JSkeleton]

20-ish eur here, sediment and carbon cartridges.... 20-ish more for resin...

Once a year.... For something that is probably most important thing in hobby..... Dirt cheap....

If once a year and the DI is only $20 ish then yeah not bad. But from what I've understood, the Sediment and Carbon need to be changed every 3-6 months? And the DI seems to be like $50 on Amazon Canada which is $30 more than Sediment and Carbon, and I'm unsure how often those typically need to be changed, but also seemed 3-6 months was what I was hearing.

 

[JSkeleton]

Additional Question (reasking from earlier):

1. What does it mean to flush the membrane and how exactly do you do it (with and without a flush valve)? I heard doing so before (or is it after?) each use would help extend the life of the membrane?

2. Does this seem like a good Pressure Valve to help monitor when the pressure is getting lower to indicate when I may need to change carbon+sediment?

 

[edd59]

you cant compare what others get out of there filters. filter and resin life will be differant from one water source to another.

 

[Tathamet]

Additional Question (reasking from earlier):

1. What does it mean to flush the membrane and how exactly do you do it (with and without a flush valve)? I heard doing so before (or is it after?) each use would help extend the life of the membrane?

2. Does this seem like a good Pressure Valve to help monitor when the pressure is getting lower to indicate when I may need to change carbon+sediment?

flushing the membrane is basically just blasting water through the filter. When I was first getting into it I thought you had to run the filter backwards to flush but was wrong lol. To flush the ro buddy I believe all you do is disconnect the flow restrictor from the waste water line and run it for a bit.

Di for the unit in Canada is about $45 or $50 for me. I usually just buy bulk resin and refill the canister instead of buying a new one. Saves a bit in cost. Careful going this route though. If any beads get in the thread it will cause a permanent leak on the cartridge (not a huge deal because it was going to go in the garbage anyway)

If you really want to squeeze as much life as you can out of the di resin I would run 2 cartridges. Old cartridge first with the new cartridge cleaning up the remains that the first couldn’t remove.

edit: not sure on the pressure valve as I’ve never used one.

 

[Syntax1235]

If you are going for a FOWLR set up than I don’t see a problem with 4 tds.


add a di if you want, but get the color changing resin to make it easier.

 

[dschuffert]

Gotcha! What's your DT setup though (how many Gallons)? Are you producing a good amount weekly/monthly of RO/DI water?

I was under the assumption carbon had to be changed every 3 months because it inactivated after 3 months? And was also under the assumption that sediment would probably need to be changed every 6 months as well.

Also, have you noticed a typical time frame for your DIs to be changed?

Great questions. My DT is 90 gallons with a 28-gallon sump. I am also creating water for some additional smaller tanks. All in all, I am producing about 20 gallons a week.

I am on a well for my water source. The well water runs through an Iron removing device and then a water softener before getting to my RO/DI filters. The water coming into the RO/DI system is around 320 TDS, about 4 TDS coming out of the RO filters and going into the DI canisters, then 0 TDS coming out of the DI canisters.

I have attached a few images of the RO/DI system and a close-up of the color-changing DI canister. I am running at 90 psi into the RO/DI system, and it produces around 5 gallons in 35 minutes.

 

[JSkeleton]

you cant compare what others get out of there filters. filter and resin life will be differant from one water source to another.

Right, that is true, I'm just trying to I guess try to get a feel and ballpark idea since I'm completely new to this xD

 

[JSkeleton]

flushing the membrane is basically just blasting water through the filter. When I was first getting into it I thought you had to run the filter backwards to flush but was wrong lol. To flush the ro buddy I believe all you do is disconnect the flow restrictor from the waste water line and run it for a bit.

Di for the unit in Canada is about $45 or $50 for me. I usually just buy bulk resin and refill the canister instead of buying a new one. Saves a bit in cost. Careful going this route though. If any beads get in the thread it will cause a permanent leak on the cartridge (not a huge deal because it was going to go in the garbage anyway)

If you really want to squeeze as much life as you can out of the di resin I would run 2 cartridges. Old cartridge first with the new cartridge cleaning up the remains that the first couldn’t remove.

edit: not sure on the pressure valve as I’ve never used one.

Oh gotcha, that simple eh!? I guess getting a flush valve just makes it easier so you just flip a switch instead of disconnecting the tube, removing the restrictor, reconnecting the tube, running it, disconnecting the tube, adding the restrictor, reconnecting the tube...ugh yeah, think I'll get a valve LOL

Oh man, why are DI so pricey!? That said, I have the little RO Buddie and am not sure it can even have a DI on it. I also had recommended to me to add a Pre Filter instead, and another place saying to add the Carbon Plus by Aquatic Life since it might be a chloramine issue with my City water (they use chloramine). Another reputable Coral store suggested not to worry about 4ppm and that they know someone who runs it at 10-12 because their like 6 stage only gets it that low or something. So not even sure what's what haha

If you don't use a pressure valve, how do you personally know when to change the sediment and carbon?

 

[JSkeleton]

If you are going for a FOWLR set up than I don’t see a problem with 4 tds.


add a di if you want, but get the color changing resin to make it easier.

Oh okay, so FOWLR I can get away with 4 range, but what about some of the hardier corals like leather corals and some of the more beginner friendly stuff? If I did ever want to get some of those down the line that is.

 

[JSkeleton]

Great questions. My DT is 90 gallons with a 28-gallon sump. I am also creating water for some additional smaller tanks. All in all, I am producing about 20 gallons a week.

I am on a well for my water source. The well water runs through an Iron removing device and then a water softener before getting to my RO/DI filters. The water coming into the RO/DI system is around 320 TDS, about 4 TDS coming out of the RO filters and going into the DI canisters, then 0 TDS coming out of the DI canisters.

I have attached a few images of the RO/DI system and a close-up of the color-changing DI canister. I am running at 90 psi into the RO/DI system, and it produces around 5 gallons in 35 minutes.

View attachment 2817859View attachment 2817860

Oh, that's a great setup! How do you get the pressure to 90psi? It takes me a few hours to create like 15-20 gallons haha

That said, I have the RO Buddie from Aquatic Life which is a smaller unit, not sure the difference between my smaller unit and a bigger one like you have? Maybe I should have opted for the bigger system??

 

[Dbichler]

Oh okay, so FOWLR I can get away with 4 range, but what about some of the hardier corals like leather corals and some of the more beginner friendly stuff? If I did ever want to get some of those down the line that is.

That all depends on what the 4 tds are in your water and how do you know? I’m not one to judge I used tap for the first 7-8 years. I can tell you with 0tds you can control algae and other stuff much easier. Definitely get the di and don’t look back. I’ve never owned a ro buddy myself so that may get expensive replacing filters but no carbon does not have to be changed that often you get chlorine strips and as soon as it’s detected that’s when you replace those. As for my system as soon as my sediment filters start to change colors those are replaced. Di resin gets changed when tds goes from 0to1. Carbon works out to almost yearly sediment every 3-4 months di 6-8 months.

 

[Syntax1235]

Oh okay, so FOWLR I can get away with 4 range, but what about some of the hardier corals like leather corals and some of the more beginner friendly stuff? If I did ever want to get some of those down the line that is.

The issue is a little more complicated than just a number, it depends on what makes up the tds that goes through the membrane, it could be totally harmless or it could be copper. Would I take the risk with a FOWLR, probably, but you may decide otherwise.

The same rules apply for adding corals to the tank.

 

[JSkeleton]

That all depends on what the 4 tds are in your water and how do you know? I’m not one to judge I used tap for the first 7-8 years. I can tell you with 0tds you can control algae and other stuff much easier. Definitely get the di and don’t look back. I’ve never owned a ro buddy myself so that may get expensive replacing filters but no carbon does not have to be changed that often you get chlorine strips and as soon as it’s detected that’s when you replace those. As for my system as soon as my sediment filters start to change colors those are replaced. Di resin gets changed when tds goes from 0to1. Carbon works out to almost yearly sediment every 3-4 months di 6-8 months.

Oh wow, tap water in a saltwater aquarium for that long? How were your tanks and livestock during that time? :O

Right now I'm debating to return this smaller unit and getting the bigger unit which I believe may come with a DI and also has a pressure valve and flush valve built in. I'm thinking in theory if my smaller unit needs to be replaced every 1500 gallons which is 60 gallons per month and I plan to do 60 gallons per month and that would equal every 6 months, then the larger unit which can handle double should mean my filters would last double the time, right?

 

[JSkeleton]

The issue is a little more complicated than just a number, it depends on what makes up the tds that goes through the membrane, it could be totally harmless or it could be copper. Would I take the risk with a FOWLR, probably, but you may decide otherwise.

The same rules apply for adding corals to the tank.

Oh boy, so if the TDS I'm getting IS copper, that would wipe out any inverts I have possibly?

 

[LeftyReefer]

Oh, gotcha! Interesting. Any idea if I can use those kinds of filters in my system? They sound like they'd save me some money in the long run. I'm in Canada but the Sediment and Carbon are $15 CAD a pop (probably like $15 a piece USD).

no, unfortunately you can't. those are full size 10" industry standard filters. your RO buddie unit uses smaller proprietary cartridges. The initial lower price is attractive, but the filters often don't last as long and are more expensive to replace. I'd go with the larger full size system if it's still possible. will be cheaper overall to maintain.

 

[Dbichler]

Oh wow, tap water in a saltwater aquarium for that long? How were your tanks and livestock during that time? :O

Right now I'm debating to return this smaller unit and getting the bigger unit which I believe may come with a DI and also has a pressure valve and flush valve built in. I'm thinking in theory if my smaller unit needs to be replaced every 1500 gallons which is 60 gallons per month and I plan to do 60 gallons per month and that would equal every 6 months, then the larger unit which can handle double should mean my filters would last double the time, right?

My tanks inhabitants were fine along side the algae. I wouldn’t recommend it lol. As far as filters go I like choosing which filters I use not having an exclusive filter that needs to be used. I don’t believe any situation can be measured as to how long each filter would last so double could mean way less or way more depending on what’s in the water.