Just a solid wood drawers from a thrift store. Made sure it was made of actual wood and not pressboard.Unfortunately I couldn't tell you the brand or anything.What stand are you using I habe been searching forever for a stand for mine!
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Just a solid wood drawers from a thrift store. Made sure it was made of actual wood and not pressboard.Unfortunately I couldn't tell you the brand or anything.What stand are you using I habe been searching forever for a stand for mine!
Tank looks great! Have you added coral or anemones?
Yes the Blastos are easily my favorite out of the first 3 corals I got. They're awesome.I have the same blastos. Love em!
Your shots all look beautiful, what camera do you use?
10 to 15% every 4 days sounds like it could be hard to keep up with!
Also are you hatching your own brine shrimp?
No it is night time and I was running the default LPS setting until today I am trying to adjust it to a custom setting, playing with it.Hi, dropped in after seeing your Noopsyche post. Are you running that 2-pyramid shaped schedule right now? The K7 Mini should easily be hitting 200 PAR on the rocks at 40% and 100 on the sand. But, your schedule isn't giving them that much time at higher PAR. The majority of the PAR on that light comes from the blue channel, followed by white and almost nil on violet. So you want those blues running during the day to give your corals energy. on a 15g, I'd have the blues running at least 40% for at least 6 hours with extra ramp up/down time.
For example, here is my schedule:
And I'm aiming for about 300-350 top of the rocks and 150-200 on the sand.
For the Torch, good move on the KFC dip. What are your Nitrates and Phosphates like in the tank? With so many water changes, you might not be running them high enough for your LPS. They don't like zero NO3/PO4. Also check flow and space. You might need to move that torch around to find it a spot with ideal flow and more space from the other corals. I'm less concerned about the blasto, but some torches and hammers can send out nasty sweepers. The torch could be angry because of flow, lack of light, other corals, low nitrates/phosphates, or just arrived sick and is struggling.
For the 15 in an LPS heavy tank you can get away with an upgraded return pump. What pump is it right now? A MightyJet 326gph with a split return and some locline to direct flow would probably cover you.No it is night time and I was running the default LPS setting until today I am trying to adjust it to a custom setting, playing with it.
I will adjust it further to a better setting starting tomorrow. I want to find a good setting and just leave it.
Torch got its second KFC dip tonight. Again 6 hours.
My nitrates hover around 10-15 so far. Currently waiting on a package of Phos reagent for my hanna checker. I don't know my Phos until then Sorry...
Thank you for the advise by the way. This is a big help
Oh yeah. Forgot to say I picked up a mini Hygger wavemaker but it seems too strong even at 40% (lowest). It's hard to find a wavemaker for my tank. Maybe a Jebao SL3 is better. Dunno.
It's the 'Adjustable 130 GPH DC Return Pump 5W/24V' that comes stock with the IM desktop 15.For the 15 in an LPS heavy tank you can get away with an upgraded return pump. What pump is it right now? A MightyJet 326gph with a split return and some locline to direct flow would probably cover you.
Thank you for the tips!I believe I am running the same wave maker in my Fiji 10g. (same dims minus an inch) I run it up top. I used to try to program the thing, but now I just leave it on the stock program. I also use a Sicce syncra, but I don't know if that is any better than your stock pump. Brave of you to start your first reef tank with dry rock. Which is a perfectly fine method BTW, it just takes more patience and skill than using live rock and or sand. It is going to get ugly, but don’t get discouraged. Also brine shrimp is the McDonald's of fish food, go with mysis. Live phyto, copepods, rotifers will do wonders. Also have a bottle of NeoPhos and NeoNitro on hand. All that new sand/rock is going to absorb a lot of PO4.
Also, remember you can always drive to the ocean and grab a handful of biodiversity. Scrippts institute has free ocean water which can also help a bit, you just have to up the salinity and alk.Thank you for the tips!
I'm really curious, why do they give away free ocean water?Also, remember you can always drive to the ocean and grab a handful of biodiversity. Scrippts institute has free ocean water which can also help a bit, you just have to up the salinity and alk.
It is just one of the things they do. They have to pump it for themselves, so they let other use it.I'm really curious, why do they give away free ocean water?
Also, from reading on here I admit I am pretty terrified of hitchhikers.
Thanks!It is just one of the things they do. They have to pump it for themselves, so they let other use it.
As far as hitchhikers go. You will eventually will have hitchhikers, there is no way from getting around it. But all hitchhikers are not bad, some are amazing and very beneficial for your tank. I would say the good outweighs the bad, but nobody talk's about the good. This creates a certain hysteria which promotes the bad unfortunately. I would look up some post by @Paul B and his success with a tank that is older than half of the posters here. I personally had a dino issue that was solved naturally because I had some live rock from Australia. I saw it happening with my own eyes under a microscope. From biome to micro brittle stars and bristle worms, all are hitchhikers, all are a part of a successful tank. IMHO it is not worth the struggle to start a tank without.About Ellen Browning Scripps Memorial Pier
scripps.ucsd.edu