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Like ive said previously I don’t know why my is reading 6.7 dkh alkalinity when I have hardly anything in it. So I decided to test my spare salt water and that had a dkh of 8.5 which would be correct for that salt water mix plus I have low nutrients so doing a 50% water change my readings for phosphate and nitrate would probably go to 0 ppm
Like ive said previously I don’t know why my is reading 6.7 dkh alkalinity when I have hardly anything in it. So I decided to test my spare salt water and that had a dkh of 8.5 which would be correct for that salt water mix plus I have low nutrients so doing a 50% water change my readings for phosphate and nitrate would probably go to 0 ppm
I presume you do not know how long it took to drop from 8.5 to 6.7, but that can happen in one day in an established tank, so if it took a couple of weeks, I would not go looking for the reason, but rather just maintain it where you want it.
I presume you do not know how long it took to drop from 8.5 to 6.7, but that can happen in one day in an established tank, so if it took a couple of weeks, I would not go looking for the reason, but rather just maintain it where you want it.
I buy my water from my lfs which they use the nyos. I asked what the dkh was and was told by them and google it was 8.5 dkh. I use a notepad to write my parameters down as I test. So two days after my water change my alk was 7.4 now it’s 6.7dkh. The only downfall is I didn’t test before my water change (rookie mistake )
I don’t think one person is right or wrong I’m just very greatful for all of everybody’s knowledge and expertise while I’m still learning.He has a Fluval Evo
So either 5 gallon or 13.5 gallon tank
Almost invariably when a reefer says "You don't need to do X"
What that translates to is, "I don't do X, and my tank is successful"
The converse is true, as well
I buy my water from my lfs which they use the nyos. I asked what the dkh was and was told by them and google it was 8.5 dkh. I use a notepad to write my parameters down as I test. So two days after my water change my alk was 7.4 now it’s 6.7dkh. The only downfall is I didn’t test before my water change (rookie mistake ) I’m just very confused as I only have 3 corals in my tank so why am I using so much
He has a Fluval Evo
So either 5 gallon or 13.5 gallon tank
Almost invariably when a reefer says "You don't need to do X"
What that translates to is, "I don't do X, and my tank is successful"
The converse is true, as well
. A beginning reefer with a 13 gallon tank, that's not fully cycled, white rock. 4 tester softy corals, writes that his dkh has dropped 2 points for no reason, over a week. And you recommend dosing 2 or 3 part. Over water changes
I don't get that, other than you take things very seriously, all the time. To the point, I am self censoring my posts and removing obvious hyperbole
Dropping what he did
In the time he did
With the animals and tank he did
Was obvious error
He doesn't need to dose. And if he dosed water changes instead of chemicals, it will not hurt his system. Because noobies are error prone
He needs to build his biome, before he needs to account for losses of calcium and alkalinity (which he doesn't have) in his system due to reef builder coral skeleton building. And yes, he can overdose the two bacterias and the two N&P solutions. But the damage is less than if he overdoses bicarb
Beginners get on a forum like this one. Read all the thread about dosing. Think, "I need to dose too". When what they really need is time, time for their tanks to age and mature
Test error is only one way he could have got his numbers
And as an aside, from the salt thread
When someone(this is me) writes to someone who is in, or has association with the pharmaceutical industry. That's you, by the way
"Hey, I think it would be a good idea, if someone made a pharmaceutical grade anhydrous product, to test both hydrometer and refractometers. That is always the same, as in a standard"
That person is not arguing with you. They are giving you a product idea. A product every single reader on the message board needs. Because there isn't one, right now
That someone was not arguing with you
Even if you don't want to make it. You could pass the idea off to someone you know who would want to bring that to market
I would buy that product. For more money than I will admit here
You're tank is brand new
Your tester corals are going to tell you your water quality, and they are telling you, "not good"
Dosing the stuff reefers normally dose, are not going to fix the corals in your pics
Not saying they don't need Ca and Mg. Those corals do need calcium and magnesium, about the same level of calcium and mag as you do
Those are not reef builder corals
What you don't have is a diverse and healthy micro biome, as evidence by those pics.
Maybe dose copepods and bacteria. Dose some coralline algae, perhaps
If you could get just one piece of real ocean live rock, you could try dosing one of those
Or
Get a 4 head Jebao doser
Dose some Macrobacter7 on the first one
Dr Tim's One and Only on head 2
Acropower on head 3
CoralAmino on head 4
That will better your tank, than dosing 2 Part or Balling Method. And will get to relieve the "I need to dose something" itch you have