New tank diatom bloom/"ugly phase" - Normal for water to become slightly cloudy?

[Ettercap]

Im assuming this is the "normal" part of a new tank:

The water is getting a bit murky/cloudy and the "brown dusting" is happening all over the rocks/sand/glass. Paramaters have been good for the last two weeks:
PH:8.2
NH3: <.5 (I really need to buy a different NH3 reader than API)
NO2: 0
NO3: 5.0
Salinity: 34ppm
Last weeks were the same but PH was 8.0 and Salinity was 33ppm.

4 weeks ago - Added two clowns
1 week ago - started seeing brown dusting every so added:
1. 4x asterea snails (Should have been 6 but hermits took over the shell and LFS mistook them)
2. 1x peppermint shrimp (died next day)
3. 6x hermits (I understand most state blue or red legs but Im wondering if it makes a difference or the brown legs one is different?)
4. 1x green emerald crab
5. 1x Tiger Pistol shrimp (Since I really want the YWG/TPS combo next)
6. 1x YWG, Currently QTing it and will plan on pre-treating it

My question is: Is it normal for everything to get cloudy? Im reading that its only a waiting game which isnt a problem at all... but Im not understanding the clouding portion of it. Im currently waiting it out but Im curious if I should purchase any other test kit to verify it is the normal diatom bloom? My overall goal is to have a simple coral tank softies/LPS.

 

[Slocke]

I had that exact problem with ammonia and that API test. Made me think my cycle was absolutely failing. Their test strips work though and are cheap.

The brown stuff is diatoms and very normal. As for the cloudy water what is your filtration system?

 

[Ettercap]

The brown stuff is diatoms and very normal. As for the cloudy water what is your filtration system?

Im currently running a Fluval 407 with sponge on the bottom and bio-home medium in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th containers. Im debating on remove the bio-home media and replacing it with more sponges and matrix. But it is what I have right now until I can get a proper tank with a sump in the future.

 

[Slocke]

A fellow canister filter user. I'd suggest adding a bag or two of carbon. Those sponges won't remove the very fine stuff and carbon has the extra benefit of removing toxins from the water. Its really a win win filtration media which most people run and will leave your water as clear as possible.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

Typically you will get slightly cloudy water during a bacterial bloom on a freshly started tank. Some tanks more than others, and some not at all. I say wait it out for a little while so the tank can balance itself out. Search the forum for bacterial bloom, new tank syndrome, starting a new tank. There’s pages of great information out there which will probably be much better than the short answers you’ll get here as everyone’s experience is a little different. Plus we’ll ask you a million questions about filtration, flow, lighting, what type of salt, any additives like cycling product used, rodi, etc.

 

[Ettercap]

I'd suggest adding a bag or two of carbon

I do have carbon available but I took the assumption that it is best to wait it out and then apply carbon in the end.

Search the forum for bacterial bloom, new tank syndrome, starting a new tank. There’s pages of great information out there which will probably be much better than the short answers you’ll get here as everyone’s experience is a little different. Plus we’ll ask you a million questions about filtration, flow, lighting, what type of salt, any additives like cycling product used, rodi, etc.

I totally hear you and I spent half-the-day looking up this topic. What I would find were the extremes... brown dusting, green dusting to you cant see the back side of the tank cloudiness. So, I thought I would want to bring the topic up since its based on extremes. But I do thank you for your input.
Filtration - 407 sponges and bio-home media
Salt - LFS water but planning on using Tropic Marin Reef pro once I find out how to connect my RODI system to my sink.
Additives - None. I did use Tims One and Only for cycling but that was 6 weeks ago.
RODI - I need to focus on getting it connected to my sink so I can start using my system. I ended up purchasing a 6 stage due to hard water and heavy chloramine usage. So, I am currently using the LFS SW.

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

I do have carbon available but I took the assumption that it is best to wait it out and then apply carbon in the end.

I totally hear you and I spent half-the-day looking up this topic. What I would find were the extremes... brown dusting, green dusting to you cant see the back side of the tank cloudiness. So, I thought I would want to bring the topic up since its based on extremes. But I do thank you for your input.
Filtration - 407 sponges and bio-home media
Salt - LFS water but planning on using Tropic Marin Reef pro once I find out how to connect my RODI system to my sink.
Additives - None. I did use Tims One and Only for cycling but that was 6 weeks ago.
RODI - I need to focus on getting it connected to my sink so I can start using my system. I ended up purchasing a 6 stage due to hard water and heavy chloramine usage. So, I am currently using the LFS SW.

Sounds good. Tropic Marin Salt is GREAT salt. However, if you’re just starting out it’s really not worth it in my opinion. I used it for a few years but saw no difference over the standard IO salt I used for many, many years and switched back to IO after the Turkeygate issue. It’s $10 for a 50 gallon bag (which only makes about 42 at 1.025). There’s absolutely nothing wrong with it, other than a minuscule amount of residue in a mixing station. There’s a lot of reefers and vendors that use it and have used it for a long time.

You need rodi water available stat, for topping off evaporation. If you just keep adding salt water it will raise your salinity and everything thing else. Unless your buying bottled rodi water, but I didn’t read that.

Tim’s one and only is a good way to start the cycle. I’m guessing the rockwork was not “live rock” (if it were I wouldn’t think you’d be getting a big bloom), with dry rock it’s pretty typical. I’m pretty confident it’s just a normal bloom and will work itself out but I’m one of those “stop messing with it” guys. Carbon will clear up the water a bit and at six weeks in wouldn’t hurt anything so you could go that route. I used the api test kits when I started out many moons ago as well. I would recommend spending the money saved on salt on better testing gear in the future. You got this and don’t stress

edit..also I wasn’t bagging on you for asking. It’s just that a lot of info is out there in articles here that hit me in the face like a brick and make me say ah ha, that’s what it is. We typically don’t get the whole entire story when questions get asked, so there may be no ah ha moment.

 

[Ettercap]

edit..also I wasn’t bagging on you for asking. It’s just that a lot of info is out there in articles here that hit me in the face like a brick and make me say ah ha, that’s what it is. We typically don’t get the whole entire story when questions get asked, so there may be no ah ha moment.

Totally with you... I didnt take it as such. I ask questions to learn so Im taking everything with a grain of salt. TYVM for mentioning it either way.

You need rodi water available stat, for topping off evaporation. If you just keep adding salt water it will raise your salinity and everything thing else. Unless your buying bottled rodi water, but I didn’t read that.

I am currently using LFS saltwater but I did buy/purchase a BRS RODI system. My only issue now is getting it connected to my sink so Im waiting to receive the right sink connector.

Tropic Marin Salt is GREAT salt. However, if you’re just starting out it’s really not worth it in my opinion.

I didnt realize that... again still learning so Im picking salts that most people mention on forums and such. More follow the trend vs to go 100% pure budget.

I do have one final question about the brown diatom bloom... It should be ok if I turn off my lights all together during this "ugly phase" since diatoms are photosynthetic? If its an issue of removing silicates... I would think not turning on my lights would help? Plus, I just read a reference of possible solutions to help a known situation: BRStv: Article "Skip the ugly phase..."

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

Totally with you... I didnt take it as such. I ask questions to learn so Im taking everything with a grain of salt. TYVM for mentioning it either way.

I am currently using LFS saltwater but I did buy/purchase a BRS RODI system. My only issue now is getting it connected to my sink so Im waiting to receive the right sink connector.

I didnt realize that... again still learning so Im picking salts that most people mention on forums and such. More follow the trend vs to go 100% pure budget.

I do have one final question about the brown diatom bloom... It should be ok if I turn off my lights all together during this "ugly phase" since diatoms are photosynthetic? If its an issue of removing silicates... I would think not turning on my lights would help? Plus, I just read a reference of possible solutions to help a known situation: BRStv: Article "Skip the ugly phase..."

What are you using to top off the tank everyday to account for evaporation? LFS saltwater? If you’re committing to TM salt do yourself a favor and always have extra on hand. Things that the forums don’t mention is that salts like tm and hw are only available from a few select vendors, it comes from very far away, and it’s very often out of stock. Murphy law is that if you run out and need some quick, it isn’t available. Another thing with salt is to find one that matches the parameters you want to keep. Tm pro for example has a dkh of around 7. Which is perfectly fine but you’ll find that many prefer much higher. Same for Reef crystals which is around 12 dkh and many prefer lower. If you want different parameters you will have to add something to bring them up or down. I only mentioned io salt previously as you stated you’re just starting out and that your only using your current tank until you can get a proper tank. As for leaving the lights off, sure no issue with that, just remember you have to turn them on sometime and when you do things will likely bloom again. It’s just part of the gig. There’s two camps really on that, my personal view to ride it out and let it do its thing on its own, and the keep throwing chemicals at it and messing around with things. I guess both will get you there eventually.

 

[Ettercap]

What are you using to top off the tank everyday to account for evaporation? LFS saltwater?

Im sorry about the non-answer. I forgot to answer it previously. I am using LFS RODI. But the LFS stated that they dose it with something just to keep the High PH and they call it "RODI topoff" vs regular RODI. (If that makes sense.) I dont know what they use to keep the PH high though...

I only mentioned io salt previously as you stated you’re just starting out and that your only using your current tank until you can get a proper tank

Perfectly understand your point. I do have 2x buckets of TM-Pro and also the 60# IO salt but my current line of thinking was to use the IO salt for my QT tank and the TM for the display tank. Even though I dont have any corals in it yet. And I also understand the need for certain levels of dkH in which I am reading about now.

As for leaving the lights off, sure no issue with that, just remember you have to turn them on sometime and when you do things will likely bloom again. It’s just part of the gig.

This is the part where I was confused... on one-hand its part of the game and "everyone" will end it going through it. No problem. Im not sure if its a matter of doing anything to prevent it or do I proactively do something to insure it will not go crazy. On the other hand, Im reading posts and articles that state "You can turn off the lights..." "You can add Vibrant/MicroBacter Clean..." "You can add a tang..." which is honestly confusing. As this is all new to me, I feel the confusion on the information out there in which I am doing something wrong if this "ugly phase" lasts longer than a week and attempting to throw everything I can at it in which it may cause more problems in the long run vs just letting it take its course. With lights on. Thats why I asked that last question about turning the lights off will help but from what you said it just sounds like it will delay vs help the situation. Im ok with letting it do its thing...

Thanks again for your guidance and time!!!

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

Im sorry about the non-answer. I forgot to answer it previously. I am using LFS RODI. But the LFS stated that they dose it with something just to keep the High PH and they call it "RODI topoff" vs regular RODI. (If that makes sense.) I dont know what they use to keep the PH high though...

Perfectly understand your point. I do have 2x buckets of TM-Pro and also the 60# IO salt but my current line of thinking was to use the IO salt for my QT tank and the TM for the display tank. Even though I dont have any corals in it yet. And I also understand the need for certain levels of dkH in which I am reading about now.

This is the part where I was confused... on one-hand its part of the game and "everyone" will end it going through it. No problem. Im not sure if its a matter of doing anything to prevent it or do I proactively do something to insure it will not go crazy. On the other hand, Im reading posts and articles that state "You can turn off the lights..." "You can add Vibrant/MicroBacter Clean..." "You can add a tang..." which is honestly confusing. As this is all new to me, I feel the confusion on the information out there in which I am doing something wrong if this "ugly phase" lasts longer than a week and attempting to throw everything I can at it in which it may cause more problems in the long run vs just letting it take its course. With lights on. Thats why I asked that last question about turning the lights off will help but from what you said it just sounds like it will delay vs help the situation. Im ok with letting it do its thing...

Thanks again for your guidance and time!!!

I hear ya on the confusion, everyone has an opinion. +1 for tank mates with a purpose like tangs, urchins, lawnmower blenny, wrasse, etc. just do your due diligence when picking livestock as not everything plays nice with each other.

Don’t ever mention vibrant on this forum unless you’re prepared for an all out war! Read the vibrant use at your own risk thread here if you feel like going down a rabbit hole.

 

[Ettercap]

Don’t ever mention vibrant on this forum unless you’re prepared for an all out war! Read the vibrant use at your own risk thread here if you feel like going down a rabbit hole.

lol COPY THAT! So no mentioning "vibrant" and "need quarantine tank" are no-nos! Thx for the heads up!

+1 for tank mates with a purpose like tangs,

Ive been thinking about getting a tang. Even though I am fully aware that a tang for a 36g is not a long term solution... Im hoping that a tang can last me a year and stay small enough until I finally get my "larger-newer" tank next year.

My livestock choices are pretty vanilla. 2x clown, 1x ywg w/pistol shrimp, 1x tang, 1x blenny and 1x royal gramma. When I get at the end I will add a coris wrasse of some sort for the last fish and then it will be all softie/lps corals. I pretty much plan to add a fish a month+ since QTing the will take some time in itself.