I am considering upgrading my 55 to a 96"x24"x24" tank. I am considering switching over to acrylic with the size of the tank for not only durability concerns but also just the weight of the tank as it will be going down into the basement and acrylic is much lighter than glass to get down the stairs. I got a quote for 1/2" acrylic or I can upgrade to 3/4" on the sides with a 1/2" base for an extra $500. My questions are 1: should I spend the extra money to go to the 3/4"? 2: Is it better to go with acrylic for larger tanks and if so what is the cutoff for those tank sizes? (I've heard 125G or more) 3: Would I be in just as good of shape to go with glass?
New tank build acrylic vs glass?
- Thread starter keithw283
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1. I would upgrade if it was me. It's fine as is but I feel 3/4" would allow for more customization of the top.
2. I prefer acrylic for most tanks. But I think the agreed point where it becomes more cost effective for rectangles is about 100-125 gallons
3. The longer I do this the less I like glass. I've seen too many leaks and seam splits over the years to want to deal with that. I also have kids and large dogs who have been known to be less than careful and clumsy. I really don't want to hear that child 1 accidentally hit the glass with the ball and 200 gallons of water is now on the floor
If you've taken your system off-line, yes, scratches are easy to buff out. But, you can't buff out the scratches when your tank is on-line and filled with water.
If you figure out a way to buff the inside pane of an acyclic tank when it is full of water, I'd like to invest in your system from your start-up's IPO!
Regards...
keithw283
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You should google that. I found a bunch of videos of people buffing out the scratches on their filled systems when researching acrylic. The scratches are why my 180 i got 6 years ago was all glass. After doing a little research it seems scratches aren’t as big of a deal as most people say they are.
Gill the 3rd
Well-Known Member
You can buff out scratches with the tank full of water. I haven't personally done it, but I have seen several people do it with very high grit sandpaper and a mag scraper.
I've had several larger glass tanks including 180g and a few 135 gallon tanks. I currently have a 300 gallon, 10x2x2 acrylic tank. The acrylic definitely scratches easier than my glass tanks did, but I will admit I am not super careful when using my mag cleaner. The scratches are also not that noticeable unless you are a couple feet from the tank and even then you have to look for them. My glass tanks had scratches in them, and those were never coming out.
My main reason for going acrylic was I didn't want to have to worry about leaks. My 180g glass tank started leaking at the bottom corner. Luckily I caught it early and was able to address it. In terms of weight, I would say my acrylic 300 gallon weighed around 350 lbs. It felt the same weight as my 180g glass tank. Me and my brother were able to move it, but we were not going up/down stairs. If you had a person at each corner, you can easily move an 8x2x2 acrylic tank down the stairs. Cant say that with a glass tank of that size.
I also went with 3/4" thick panels, if you can afford the extra $500 I recommend doing that. It will help minimize the bowing. You will have to make sure that your powerheads and mag scrapers can work on 3/4" material.
For me personally, anything over 125g is going to be acrylic.
I've had several larger glass tanks including 180g and a few 135 gallon tanks. I currently have a 300 gallon, 10x2x2 acrylic tank. The acrylic definitely scratches easier than my glass tanks did, but I will admit I am not super careful when using my mag cleaner. The scratches are also not that noticeable unless you are a couple feet from the tank and even then you have to look for them. My glass tanks had scratches in them, and those were never coming out.
My main reason for going acrylic was I didn't want to have to worry about leaks. My 180g glass tank started leaking at the bottom corner. Luckily I caught it early and was able to address it. In terms of weight, I would say my acrylic 300 gallon weighed around 350 lbs. It felt the same weight as my 180g glass tank. Me and my brother were able to move it, but we were not going up/down stairs. If you had a person at each corner, you can easily move an 8x2x2 acrylic tank down the stairs. Cant say that with a glass tank of that size.
I also went with 3/4" thick panels, if you can afford the extra $500 I recommend doing that. It will help minimize the bowing. You will have to make sure that your powerheads and mag scrapers can work on 3/4" material.
For me personally, anything over 125g is going to be acrylic.
thecodingart
Active Member
Just how ridiculously heavy my Waterbox 150.4 versus my Planet Aquarium 300 gallon was — more than enough to convince me that any tank exceeding 100 gallons is far far too heavy glass wise.
Moving it with my wife is something.
The Plant Aquarium tank is a walk in the park in comparison.
jft
Well-Known Member
I had a 300 gallon once, an Acrylic tank. I Hated IT. It would be EXTREMELY Difficult to clean. . Acrylic is nice first setup but over time it s a Nightmare. Glass IMO Much More Durable and certainly Easier to clean, Good LUCK!
Gill the 3rd
Well-Known Member
I would definitely agree glass is easier to clean, but I don't find acrylic that difficult either. You have to be more careful of sand getting into the mag cleaner. Granted I've scratched my glass tanks doing this as well.
I am not sure how glass is more durable. Acrylic tanks (if built correctly) are far more durable than any glass tank will ever be. To me this is the biggest reason I would only do acrylic on a large tank. A tank leak at that size is disastrous on many levels.
I am not sure how glass is more durable. Acrylic tanks (if built correctly) are far more durable than any glass tank will ever be. To me this is the biggest reason I would only do acrylic on a large tank. A tank leak at that size is disastrous on many levels.
DMathys
Community Member
Ive got a very similar sized acrylic aquarium, 96x30x24 that is 2 1/2 years old. A couple things to think about.
I didnt want the small cutouts and/or numerous cross braces that most acrylic tanks have on top for structural rigidity. Figured they could limit light and make getting inside the tank a pain. I also didnt want any defelction. I ended up going with 1" acrylic and a 4" wide euro brace on top and no cross braces. No deflection and full access. Not sure how much bowing you are ok with and how open you want access to the tank to be but I think its worth discussing with your builder.
Acrylic will scratch but can be removed. I use Mighty Magnet cleaners, F6 with an algae cutter bag and they also have a sanding kit that you use with the tank full of water and running. Not the cheapest option but they work great and I find that I only get scratches when I try to knock a snail off the panel instead of going around it or when I use a metal blade on tough coraline. I use the magnet a couple times a week but end up with a few spots of thick coraline so once a month I use a Flipper magnet with the metal blade to get this off. I end up with a few light scratches and go over all viewing panels with the 2 finest grit sanding pads. Back to new.
Final consideration is that if you do go with thicker acrylic it may limit certain things like frag racks, nori clips, power heads, etc.
I didnt want the small cutouts and/or numerous cross braces that most acrylic tanks have on top for structural rigidity. Figured they could limit light and make getting inside the tank a pain. I also didnt want any defelction. I ended up going with 1" acrylic and a 4" wide euro brace on top and no cross braces. No deflection and full access. Not sure how much bowing you are ok with and how open you want access to the tank to be but I think its worth discussing with your builder.
Acrylic will scratch but can be removed. I use Mighty Magnet cleaners, F6 with an algae cutter bag and they also have a sanding kit that you use with the tank full of water and running. Not the cheapest option but they work great and I find that I only get scratches when I try to knock a snail off the panel instead of going around it or when I use a metal blade on tough coraline. I use the magnet a couple times a week but end up with a few spots of thick coraline so once a month I use a Flipper magnet with the metal blade to get this off. I end up with a few light scratches and go over all viewing panels with the 2 finest grit sanding pads. Back to new.
Final consideration is that if you do go with thicker acrylic it may limit certain things like frag racks, nori clips, power heads, etc.
Magic031707
Active Member
Wrong
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