New line of UV sterilizers from Lifeguard

[Baka Mop]

I think I'm going to go with the 55w and plumb inline with return. This isn't super accurate but my return is a Jebao DCP-8000 dialed down to ~50%. Accounting for head loss it's ~700gph which lines up nicely with the 55w recommendation for parasitic management.

Exactly what I'm doing when my 55w comes in. My return is a Red Sea 5500 running at 50% with ~135g water volume counting for rocks and sand, so I got not worries there. Gonna put my H2O2 dosing line right near the pump, so I get full effectiveness with my parasite regimen. I got the 55w and the 3/4" barb kit for about $416 from MarineAndReef after using their coupon code.

 

[newreef1]

Not sure what to make of this. I like the design but not sure If it is attractive or weird??
What is everyones thoughts?








Lifegard Aquatics

40 Watt Pro-MAX High Output UV Sterilizer​

IN STOCK
SKU
252370


$396.00




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NEW

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Details
LifeGard Pro-MAX 40-watt High Output UV Sterilizer

• For freshwater or saltwater aquariums up to 250 gallons
• Effective against bacteria and water-borne algae blooms
• Unique design, allowing for multiple plumbing configurations
• Available in 25w, 40w, 55w, 90w, and 120w sizes

The Lifegard Aquatics Pro-Max 40-watt UV sterilizer features a unique patent-pending flow-through design with less restrictive angled inlet and outlet ports, allowing for better flow. The outlets can be positioned in several different directions to fit your available space and plumbing setup without any additional plumbing -- something unique to the LifeGard UV sterilizers vs other brands. This 40-watt Pro-MAX model is ideal for aquariums up to 250 gallons and is sure to help with water-borne bacteria & algae blooms, keeping your aquarium water crystal clear.

Specifications:
Dimensions - 37.3" L x 4.51" W x 9" H
Input/Output Size - 3" Slip Connections
Power Consumption - 40 Watts
Max Operating Pressure - 30 PSI
Max Flow Rate - 2500 GPH
Max Flow Rate for Algae & Bacteria - 1200 GPH
Lamp Life (Hours) - 9000 (approx. 1 year)

What's in the Box?
UV Sterilizer Housing
High Output UV Bulb
Internal Protective Sleeve

I saw this the other day as I narrow down my choices for UV sterilizers, reading through threads to get a better idea on plumbing one in my tank.

 

[newreef1]

I think they’re different. So far the previous version seals have been available. If I remember correctly there is an upgrade kit that consists of a new end cap and sleeve (I think the sleeves are sized differently now). @MarineandReef Jaron knows the deal on this, maybe he’ll chime in. I like the weird configuration as it makes the overall length shorter so you can actually fit a decent sized uv inside the stand. I have a 55w pro inside my 750xxl stand and I can even replace the bulb and sleeve without removing the unit.

Do you mind sharing how you plumbed it into your tank? I also have a 750xxl, pics would really help.

 

[newreef1]

Exactly what I'm doing when my 55w comes in. My return is a Red Sea 5500 running at 50% with ~135g water volume counting for rocks and sand, so I got not worries there. Gonna put my H2O2 dosing line right near the pump, so I get full effectiveness with my parasite regimen. I got the 55w and the 3/4" barb kit for about $416 from MarineAndReef after using their coupon code.

I’m looking at ordering one, I’m gonna check out their website!

 

[dmsc2fs]

I am confused about this. What changed? As far as I can tell this is at least a two year old design? I have one and had two of them for a few years. Was it redesigned? It looks exactly like the one I have.

 

[Baka Mop]

I am confused about this. What changed? As far as I can tell this is at least a two year old design? I have one and had two of them for a few years. Was it redesigned? It looks exactly like the one I have.

I think it's just BRS is now stocking them.

 

[dmsc2fs]

I think it's just BRS is now stocking them.

Ah, well they are cheaper elsewhere and a great skimmer.

 

[FMF0331]

Looks interesting, but will these rust ?

 

[Doctorgori]

As I own 3 of these, just some info:
-expect some heat gain from these (or any) UV, I know most know this but worth mentioning just in case your tanks normally hover above 80F
- you can change the orientation of the outputs by unbolting and rotating the housing end assembly(s), pay attention that you dont pinch the o-ring on re-assembly and re- tighten in a “X” pattern
- You will have to R&R the bulbs, O-Rings and inner sleeve 1X/yr …the only vendor I located for kits is @MarineandReef Jaron (might be others, dunno) cost approx $200 for bulb & kit. My kit did not include all the O-ring for the 55W model, the ones shown below were not present upon disassembly

- Be mindful of your choice of PVC reducer when gluing to housing, while there is a method to undo PVC solvent, I recommend a 1” threaded reducer. Not sure if that housing is plastic, ABS, or whatever but Oatley makes a universal solvent. See pic

- Make sure the UV is on only when there is flow. I’m rebuilding the 55W unit because of overheating /equipment failure (Apex) and poor programming. Safest bet is have the outlet in tandem with the return pump or whatever.

 

[Doctorgori]

Looks interesting, but will these rust ?

 

[newreef1]

I am confused about this. What changed? As far as I can tell this is at least a two year old design? I have one and had two of them for a few years. Was it redesigned? It looks exactly like the one I have.

I think I read somewhere they changed the end caps and some have ballasts while some don’t? Might be something with the replacement interior sleeve too?

 

[A_Blind_Reefer]

I think it's just BRS is now stocking them.

This. The quote updated version has been out for a couple years now

 

[Baka Mop]

I think I read somewhere they changed the end caps and some have ballasts while some don’t? Might be something with the replacement interior sleeve too?

I got mines today and they have a new endcap that seals the quartz sleeve inside the housing so you can change out the bulb without draining and taking out the quartz sleeve. Unfortunately, I seem to have gotten the wrong quartz sleeve, because it doesn't fit the new endcap. I emailed lifegard at like 8pm and they actually got back to me and will send a replacement tomorrow. Still kind of a bummer, cause I was really hoping to get it up and running today.

 

[Quietman]

The one thing that concerns me is the ratings on these. For example on their 55w 2100 gph provides 30K uw/cm2 (which is level for algae control). For protozoa a minimum of 90K uw/cm2 is required (and other suggest 180K uw/cm2 or more). The flow on the 55w is going to be 700 gph, and for 180K uw/cm2 it'll be 350 gph.

For a comparable AquaUV at 57 w. The rated flow for 30 K uw/cm2 is 3900 gph making the 90k uw/cm2 1066 gph, 180 uw/cm2 533 gph.

Looking at the AquaUV ratings the Lifegard 55w comes in below the AquaUV 40w.

Not sure the reasons - how they test, different bulbs, design, materials. There is a price difference but hard to know the basis of that.

Just something to add into considerations.

 

[Baka Mop]

The one thing that concerns me is the ratings on these. For example on their 55w 2100 gph provides 30K uw/cm2 (which is level for algae control). For protozoa a minimum of 90K uw/cm2 is required (and other suggest 180K uw/cm2 or more). The flow on the 55w is going to be 700 gph, and for 180K uw/cm2 it'll be 350 gph.

For a comparable AquaUV at 57 w. The rated flow for 30 K uw/cm2 is 3900 gph making the 90k uw/cm2 1066 gph, 180 uw/cm2 533 gph.

Looking at the AquaUV ratings the Lifegard 55w comes in below the AquaUV 40w.

Not sure the reasons - how they test, different bulbs, design, materials. There is a price difference but hard to know the basis of that.

Just something to add into considerations.

The lifegard ratings sound accurate. BRS said that 1-2x turnover rate is the optimal flow rate for sterilizing parasites. The 55w says the maximum aquarium size is 350 gallons, and your math came up with 180K uw/cm2 being 350gph, so it looks like lifegard's ratings are right on the money. Maybe AquaUV is exaggerating their flow rates a bit?

 

[Bitcoin Reefer]

I bought 120w unit, and had chance to speak with the owner Neal and he was very helpful and great to speak to. I had small issue where I broke quartz sleeve and he helped me get quick replacement. They seem like they care. Setup for it was relatively simple, seems very sturdy, and I think the reason for the design is that it holds water so if water ever stops flowing or there is a leak the bulb will always be covered by water to lower chances of burning up. It didn’t fix my Dino issue lol, but still running it while fighting them to see if it may help.

 

[newreef1]

Not sure what to make of this. I like the design but not sure If it is attractive or weird??
What is everyones thoughts?








Lifegard Aquatics

40 Watt Pro-MAX High Output UV Sterilizer​

IN STOCK
SKU
252370


$396.00




Skip to the end of the images gallery

NEW

Skip to the beginning of the images gallery
Details
LifeGard Pro-MAX 40-watt High Output UV Sterilizer

• For freshwater or saltwater aquariums up to 250 gallons
• Effective against bacteria and water-borne algae blooms
• Unique design, allowing for multiple plumbing configurations
• Available in 25w, 40w, 55w, 90w, and 120w sizes

The Lifegard Aquatics Pro-Max 40-watt UV sterilizer features a unique patent-pending flow-through design with less restrictive angled inlet and outlet ports, allowing for better flow. The outletpositioned in several different directions to fit your available space and plumbing setup without any additional plumbing -- something unique to the LifeGard UV sterilizers vs other brands. This 40-watt Pro-MAX model is ideal for aquariums up to 250 gallons and is sure to help with water-borne bacteria & algae blooms, keeping your aquarium water crystal clear.

Specifications:
Dimensions - 37.3" L x 4.51" W x 9" H
Input/Output Size - 3" Slip Connections
Power Consumption - 40 Watts
Max Operating Pressure - 30 PSI
Max Flow Rate - 2500 GPH
Max Flow Rate for Algae & Bacteria - 1200 GPH
Lamp Life (Hours) - 9000 (approx. 1 year)

What's in the Box?
UV Sterilizer Housing
High Output UV Bulb
Internal Protective Sleeve

I don’t understand this company’s flow rates. The max flow rate for algae control is 2100 GPH for the 55 watt, typically for protozoa and disease control the flow is slower and many companies have min flow rates. What are this company’s flow rates for disease control? Also typically I believe the flow rates are based on a 4X tank size turnover, so if your tank is 200 gallons you should have a min return pump flow of around 800 GPH is that correct, please correct me if I’m wrong. I currently use a sicce pump not sure exact number but around 1200-1400 GPH. I want to connect my UV to my return pump so hoping to find a unit with flow rates similar to my current pump and hoping to use for algae and mainly disease control.

 

[Baka Mop]

I don’t understand this company’s flow rates. The max flow rate for algae control is 2100 GPH for the 55 watt, typically for protozoa and disease control the flow is slower and many companies have min flow rates. What are this company’s flow rates for disease control? Also typically I believe the flow rates are based on a 4X tank size turnover, so if your tank is 200 gallons you should have a min return pump flow of around 800 GPH is that correct, please correct me if I’m wrong. I currently use a sicce pump not sure exact number but around 1200-1400 GPH. I want to connect my UV to my return pump so hoping to find a unit with flow rates similar to my current pump and hoping to use for algae and mainly disease control.

We were just talking about that like two posts ago. If I recall, and I could be wrong, BRS stated that 1-2x tank turnover is the optimal flow rate for disease control, provided that you have the correct size sterilizer for your tank. And quoting what @Quietman said:

For protozoa a minimum of 90K uw/cm2 is required (and other suggest 180K uw/cm2 or more). The flow on the 55w is going to be 700 gph, and for 180K uw/cm2 it'll be 350 gph.

The 55w is rated for a maximum tank size 350 gallons, so 350-700gph falls exactly in line with the flow rates BRS suggests. If you want higher flow, I think the only choice is to oversize your sterilizer. In the case of uv sterilizers, bigger actually is better if you have the room for it.

 

[Quietman]

I don’t understand this company’s flow rates. The max flow rate for algae control is 2100 GPH for the 55 watt, typically for protozoa and disease control the flow is slower and many companies have min flow rates. What are this company’s flow rates for disease control? Also typically I believe the flow rates are based on a 4X tank size turnover, so if your tank is 200 gallons you should have a min return pump flow of around 800 GPH is that correct, please correct me if I’m wrong. I currently use a sicce pump not sure exact number but around 1200-1400 GPH. I want to connect my UV to my return pump so hoping to find a unit with flow rates similar to my current pump and hoping to use for algae and mainly disease control.

The exposure rate is inversely proportional to the flow since it's based on time of exposure. So if the flow rate doubles the exposure rate is halved.

For the 55 watt unit - at 2200 GPH the exposure is 30,000 uw/cm2. The min for effective algae/bacteria control.

So for disease control you have to decide which exposure level recommendation you're going with. Minimum is 90,000 uw/cm2 to start and the higher end I've read for some white spots is 360,000 uw/cm2. So the flow rates for those are:

90,000uw/cm2 = 2200 gph/(90,000/30,000) = 2200 gph/3 = 733.33
180,000uw/cm2 = 2200gph/6 = 366.67gph
360,000uw/cm2 = 2200gph/12 = 183.33 gph

Now to add one more wrinkle which you hinted at. The filter turnover, how many times your tank volume passes through the UV filter at the specific flow rate to control population growth of bad organisms.

For some algae (some dinoflagellates) they can double population every 20 min. That's 8x per hour and the turnover should be 8x/hour as a goal.

For protozoa (disease) they reproduce much more slowly so 3x/hour and perhaps even 2x/hr will suffice for most.

So all that should give you the ranges of what you want to run and how you can make good choices if you need to trade off due to budget or size limitations. Very hard to run one UV for everything effectively for very large tanks (180 g or more).

Also will give you basis for comparing different manufacturers. Easy to put exposure/dollar.

All that said, I like to run one UV that is set at high enough flow rate to maintain any dinos under control (for me that's about 5x) with high enough exposure to expose any protozoa to at least 180,000 uw/cm2. I also like to have the ability if any breakouts occur to reduce flow to get me to 300,000uw/cm2 or better or support 30,000 uw/cm2 at 8x turnover. With DC pumps it's fairly easy to have adjust flow although the lower flow rates may require a discharge throttle valve.

Running on a return can be problematic as most aren't cranking 8x turnover and 2x turnover might be a bit thin but that's all part of the fun in setting up a reef tank. I'm running a return UV now, but it's a small tank. Going larger in a month and I'll have dedicated line.

Long post. It's a fairly straightforward process of calculation low and high ends, but it can seem a bit much. UV filters are expensive and selecting the right one is key. No one wants to drop $500 or $600 and then see dinos or white spot.

Good luck!

 

[Quietman]

I should also say - tank volumes from manufacturers are just guidelines. Some base on algae control, some on something else. You'll be best off looking at UV-C exposure rates and doing own calculations.

And there is no industry standard for determining that exposure rate. I'm sure they're all tested but at bulb EOL or BOL, calculated from design or actual in place measurement could all effect the reading. So could how they measure power of bulb and bulb manufacture.

So we trust the manufactures that post their data and go from there. But that's likely why you may find the AquaUV filter at 40w compares to the Lifegard at 90W. You can't assume everyone's 40w UV has same flow rates/sizes/exposures.