Need some advice

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vetteguy53081

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Elrond

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At times with ich, Tromonts will fall off and lay eggs for reproduction, but flukes are flatworms which will do the same. Pics will be helpful. Jay will be on before I am and you will get an answer between one of us
PXL_20230410_104338312.TS_exported_6574_1681138418825.jpg
 
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Elrond

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vetteguy53081

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These look like mucus plugs and are likely a skin irritation often mistaken for ich or lympho. In some cases they vanish in time WHEN good diet and water quality is provided and is generally associated with previous ich or bacteria on given fish. In answer to your question, copper will irritate it more but you can try copper at level 2.0 but I would recommend trying hyposalinity in lieu of copper at salt level 1.009 for 4 weeks.
 

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I can't believe I didn't think of that, that would make way more sense.
If your going to be taking the rock out of the 125 and using it in the new tank I would not treat with copper there. Copper can be removed from the rocks (yes I have done this and it can be done for you naysayers ;)) but it takes quite a long time to remove all of it. Since you think you may have disease I would treat the fish as new arrivals and run them through a typical QT period with copper etc and run the display fallow if you are bringing any rock over to the new tank. You could seed some sponge filters to help the bio filter in QT and extra oxygen will be needed anyway. A stock tank isn't too expensive and would make a great QT and give the fish much more room than a 40g. I set one up as a hospital tank after a velvet outbreak. Aquaclear 110 hob with two sponges seeded, heater and a power head or 2 along with some pvc tubing or fake decor and it's good to go.
 
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Elrond

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These look like mucus plugs and are likely a skin irritation often mistaken for ich or lympho. In some cases they vanish in time WHEN good diet and water quality is provided and is generally associated with previous ich or bacteria on given fish. In answer to your question, copper will irritate it more but you can try copper at level 2.0 but I would recommend trying hyposalinity in lieu of copper at salt level 1.009 for 4 weeks.
Thank you for the information, I don't get it though I'm doing 15 percent water changes with rodi every 4 days and vacuuming sand/cleaning filters with the water changes, they are eating well different kinds of nori daily a wide variety of frozen, flake and pellet foods, mysis soaked with selcon and fresh raw clam almost every day
 
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Elrond

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Thank you for the information, I don't get it though I'm doing 15 percent water changes with rodi every 4 days and vacuuming sand/cleaning filters with the water changes, they are eating well different kinds of nori daily a wide variety of frozen, flake and pellet foods, mysis soaked with selcon and fresh raw clam almost every day
Salinity and heat are constant, low stress very little fighting in tank with lots of places to hide, should I increase the volume/frequency of water changes do you think?
 

vetteguy53081

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Salinity and heat are constant, low stress very little fighting in tank with lots of places to hide, should I increase the volume/frequency of water changes do you think?
Allow test kits to dictate that. What kits are you using. If false readings, may be an issue
You dont need frequent water changes, just maintain water quality.
Diet is sufficient according to your list.
 
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Elrond

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Allow test kits to dictate that. What kits are you using. If false readings, may be an issue
You dont need frequent water changes, just maintain water quality.
Diet is sufficient according to your list.
I use api right now, I want to get all Hannah but it's out of my price range right now. I never have any ammonia reading and all the water changes keep the nitrates low, I wonder sometimes if I'm overdoing it though
 

vetteguy53081

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I use api right now, I want to get all Hannah but it's out of my price range right now. I never have any ammonia reading and all the water changes keep the nitrates low, I wonder sometimes if I'm overdoing it though
Thats the problem often with Api- shows zero when its not. As I often suggest, to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.
 
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