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Elrond

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So here's my dilemma, would appreciate any guidance from you guys. I have a 125 gallon fowlr set up and I'm upgrading to a 312 gallon in June, in the interim the 8 fish I have I'm putting in a 40 gallon breeder because I need to get the 125 they are in ready to be a sump for my next system. Except for the Huma hes going in a 20 gallon by himself so the other fish aren't harassed being in so much a smaller tank with him. I've had suspicions of ich because of white spots I have seen on my hippo tang, I have sent a video of her to a knowledgeable fish medic on this forum and he identified the spots as mucus plugs, which was a relief, although he said Ich could be present and possibly the cause of the plugs. On and off now I see white specks on several of the fish, and pretty clearly flashing behavior also although the spots go away quickly like in a matter of hours after I see them. My question is should I just treat all the fish in the 40 breeder with copper even if I can't confirm ich? I would like to know that they are all disease free before introducing them into such a large system, id rather take the ich eradication route than the ich management if possible, I'm planning a high intensity uv sterilizer and will be strictly quarantining all new fish for at least a month going forward. On the other hand I know medication is stressful and don't want to do that unnecessarily or be counterproductive in my attempt to keep them healthy. Would really appreciate any advice, I have the 40 filled with rodi circulating with a power head and heater, I'm planning to move them next week either way I go
 
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Can you set up the uv on the 40?
The extra stress of putting the fish in a 1/3 sized tank is likely to cause an ich problem when the fish are going to be in the situation for an extended period of time. Are there any lfs or buddies nearby that can hold them during the transition?
Lots of people trade them rather than risk illness during the swap/upgrade. Something to consider, hopefully the upgrade will be done smoothly.
 

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Having just dealt with ich and flukes I would say first idk if you have sand in the tank. Confirm its not just sand stuck to the fish as this can happen and give quite the scare. Secondly I would do per the great advice of the medics in this forum. A 5 minute freshwater dip to rule out flukes (only neobenedenia can be seen with the naked eye). Secondly are they breathing heavy? Clamped fins? At the surface? Those are flukes symptoms to look for. If you can rule out flukes for the moment and still see signs I would treat with copper. I like to use coppersafe because it's less stressful but experts here also use CP.. I beat the parasite and its was very labor intensive especially because I had live rock and sand absorbing copper. I would do bare bottom tank. Better to treat then to let them decline. Also I feel during the qt move it causes stress. Smaller tank ..more stress. I can't speak for everyone but I like to use those factors to let the ich or whatever parasite they have reveal themselves so your not worrying about hidden or encysted parasites. Good luck buddy you got this.
 
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Elrond

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Can you set up the uv on the 40?
The extra stress of putting the fish in a 1/3 sized tank is likely to cause an ich problem when the fish are going to be in the situation for an extended period of time. Are there any lfs or buddies nearby that can hold them during the transition?
Lots of people trade them rather than risk illness during the swap/upgrade. Something to consider, hopefully the upgrade will be done smoothly.
I don't think there is anyone who could take them, really the thing I'm trying to decide is if it's better to treat them just to be sure. I could technically keep them in the DT until the week I set up the new larger tank but I really don't want to put them in there until I'm sure they aren't carrying anything. Setting the UV up on the 40 would be.a good idea I don't know if there's a way to though because I'm just running a hob filter on that and not a sump
 
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Elrond

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Having just dealt with ich and flukes I would say first idk if you have sand in the tank. Confirm its not just sand stuck to the fish as this can happen and give quite the scare. Secondly I would do per the great advice of the medics in this forum. A 5 minute freshwater dip to rule out flukes (only neobenedenia can be seen with the naked eye). Secondly are they breathing heavy? Clamped fins? At the surface? Those are flukes symptoms to look for. If you can rule out flukes for the moment and still see signs I would treat with copper. I like to use coppersafe because it's less stressful but experts here also use CP.. I beat the parasite and its was very labor intensive especially because I had live rock and sand absorbing copper. I would do bare bottom tank. Better to treat then to let them decline. Also I feel during the qt move it causes stress. Smaller tank ..more stress. I can't speak for everyone but I like to use those factors to let the ich or whatever parasite they have reveal themselves so your not worrying about hidden or encysted parasites. Good luck buddy you got this.
Thanks for the reply, I haven't seen any symptoms other than the flashing and salt like white spots that are definitely spreading at this point, it had been just the Hippo now the Royal gamma has them too and the Huma has started flashing also. They are all eating very well I'm feeding nori, live clam, brine shrimp soaked in selcon and various frozen and pellet foods three times a day as much as they will take which is so far thankfully alot. 15 percent water changes every 4 or five days vacuuming one half the tank sand every time. Oh yes I do have sand but unfortunately it's not sand sticking to them. I have coppersafe coming on Tuesday
 
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Elrond

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I agree, especially if you plan to QT all fish moving forward

I'd treat with copper.
Should I just put them all in the 40 together? Except the Huma hes definitely going in a 20 by himself, besides him I have a hippo, sailfin, foxface, two small ocilaris, a gamma and a blue spot puffer they all get along well none bigger than 4 in.
 

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So here's my dilemma, would appreciate any guidance from you guys. I have a 125 gallon fowlr set up and I'm upgrading to a 312 gallon in June, in the interim the 8 fish I have I'm putting in a 40 gallon breeder because I need to get the 125 they are in ready to be a sump for my next system. Except for the Huma hes going in a 20 gallon by himself so the other fish aren't harassed being in so much a smaller tank with him. I've had suspicions of ich because of white spots I have seen on my hippo tang, I have sent a video of her to a knowledgeable fish medic on this forum and he identified the spots as mucus plugs, which was a relief, although he said Ich could be present and possibly the cause of the plugs. On and off now I see white specks on several of the fish, and pretty clearly flashing behavior also although the spots go away quickly like in a matter of hours after I see them. My question is should I just treat all the fish in the 40 breeder with copper even if I can't confirm ich? I would like to know that they are all disease free before introducing them into such a large system, id rather take the ich eradication route than the ich management if possible, I'm planning a high intensity uv sterilizer and will be strictly quarantining all new fish for at least a month going forward. On the other hand I know medication is stressful and don't want to do that unnecessarily or be counterproductive in my attempt to keep them healthy. Would really appreciate any advice, I have the 40 filled with rodi circulating with a power head and heater, I'm planning to move them next week either way I go
Not sure how assessments are being made, but need pics under white lighting to confirm. In addition. . . . .
Are fishing breathing normal or labored?
Are fins clamped?.
Scratching or darting behavior in tank ?
Any hiding or lethargic behavior?
 

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If there isnt anything else alive in the 125 i would just treat them there. If you have space to have both the 125 and 300 set up just leave them in the 125 for treatment and take out all the live rock and whatever and put in the 40/20 gallon tanks or even a brute can. The 300 will be fine without a sump while stuff transitions and get cleaned. Then you dont have the stress of moving fish and crowding. Just make sure to give anthing wet you are re-using a fishless fallow period to make sure you arent accidentally transfering tomonts.
 
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Elrond

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Not sure how assessments are being made, but need pics under white lighting to confirm. In addition. . . . .
Are fishing breathing normal or labored?
Are fins clamped?.
Scratching or darting behavior in tank ?
Any hiding or lethargic behavior?
I will send some tomorrow, they are breathing well, three are flashing now it had been just the Hippo now the gamma and Huma are also. They are all still eating very well, the weird thing is in the morning when I turn on the light and they come out to eat there is really visible salt like white spots on both the Hippo and now the gamma as well, but they aren't visible by the afternoon I don't know if that's usually how it is or what, it has definitely seemed to follow what I've read is the life cycle of ich though, about ten days ago the spots on the Hippo stopped and which was the only one that had been getting them now starting yesterday they are back with the flashing behavior again this time on more than one fish though. No lethargy, the gamma and hippo do hide some but always have they come out to eat always and interact with the other fish/explore at other times also
 

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I will send some tomorrow, they are breathing well, three are flashing now it had been just the Hippo now the gamma and Huma are also. They are all still eating very well, the weird thing is in the morning when I turn on the light and they come out to eat there is really visible salt like white spots on both the Hippo and now the gamma as well, but they aren't visible by the afternoon I don't know if that's usually how it is or what, it has definitely seemed to follow what I've read is the life cycle of ich though, about ten days ago the spots on the Hippo stopped and which was the only one that had been getting them now starting yesterday they are back with the flashing behavior again this time on more than one fish though. No lethargy, the gamma and hippo do hide some but always have they come out to eat always and interact with the other fish/explore at other times also
At times with ich, Tromonts will fall off and lay eggs for reproduction, but flukes are flatworms which will do the same. Pics will be helpful. Jay will be on before I am and you will get an answer between one of us
 
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Elrond

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If there isnt anything else alive in the 125 i would just treat them there. If you have space to have both the 125 and 300 set up just leave them in the 125 for treatment and take out all the live rock and whatever and put in the 40/20 gallon tanks or even a brute can. The 300 will be fine without a sump while stuff transitions and get cleaned. Then you dont have the stress of moving fish and crowding. Just make sure to give anthing wet you are re-using a fishless fallow period to make sure you arent accidentally transfering tomonts.
I can't believe I didn't think of that, that would make way more sense.
 
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Elrond

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At times with ich, Tromonts will fall off and lay eggs for reproduction, but flukes are flatworms which will do the same. Pics will be helpful. Jay will be on before I am and you will get an answer between one of us
Oh I didn't know that, ok sounds good I appreciate it
 
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Elrond

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At times with ich, Tromonts will fall off and lay eggs for reproduction, but flukes are flatworms which will do the same. Pics will be helpful. Jay will be on before I am and you will get an answer between one of us
 

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