Need help. Hired LFS and not sure this is working out the way I had hoped...

Harpo

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Please drain the water out of that sump until that stand is rebuilt!

Every return I have ever seen entering the tank has been 3/4 but it doesn't need to be 3/4 the whole way. I would run 1.0 then within a foot or two reduce down to 3/4
 
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csenoj

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So two questions I have as I'm analyzing what is "the right way"....

I have two drain holes pre-cut in the tank. They combine these below the display tank with a 90 elbow vs doing two lines.
  1. I feel like I should have these as two separate pipes vs combined into one
    • (1) as a Primary Drain to Sump system
    • (1) as an Emergency drain that goes into either my sump or into my house plumbing
My logic

  1. Combining them into one drain seems like a fail point but maybe this is standard (I feel like they were just being cheap on pipe/labor)?
  2. Why add a 90 vs a 45 if going to do it?
  3. For going to house drain vs sump system… I plan to connect to a GHL so if the water level ever dipped or if flow went below a certain rate, I cold have it shut off/notify me.

I have no check valves on the return pipes. I believe I should add (2x) y-valves


The question:
  1. Should I replum the main drain lines so they are separate (and should they both go to sump or should the emergency go into my house plumbing/sanitary line)?
  2. Should I add two y-check valves?
 
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csenoj

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Last high level question for feedback... if I have a spare 90 gallon tank, what is my best use of this in this system/how can I tie this in?
 

rja

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You would be surprised how much a real plumber can help with an aquarium install like this. I would highly recommend consulting one.
 

MnFish1

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A couple comments - if I had that system - I would want both sumps easily accessible - ie not having to get down on my knees to mess with the skimmer.

As others have said the sump stand (unless there is very little volume) - is not appropriate unless there is a lot of bracing not shown in the pictures.

I can't answer all of your questions - but - you have a lot and I would put them in writing to the tank people who are 'designing' this system. If they will not rectify it, you can hire someone else to answer your questions - and fix the problems. You can also (depending on how you paid) - dispute the charges on your credit card - or - small claims court - if they won't fix the issues. (i.e. you would ask for the money it costs you to fix any problems that an expert would find). Hopefully you had some kind of written estimate/contract before doing this?

All of that said, it's a nice tank and idea.

PS - there should be no leaks from properly sealed PVC - and adding something from the outside seems like it's doomed to fail.
 

mike550

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So two questions I have as I'm analyzing what is "the right way"....

The question:
  1. Should I replum the main drain lines so they are separate (and should they both go to sump or should the emergency go into my house plumbing/sanitary line)?
  2. Should I add two y-check valves?
1. I would prefer two separate drain lines. My 120 has two lines and they are each plumbed directly to the sump. Less issues if there is a clog etc. Adding the option for an “emergency” valve to divert water is a “nice to have” I suppose. You could also just pump out of the sump to the drain.

2. I’m not a fan of check valves. I’d rather have a system that can contain all of the water even if the pumps are off
 

Cpc83

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Would someone be able to help me figure out how to calculate flow rate once they reduce the pipe sizing down?

I don't know how to modify this to account for reduction down? If I did this correctly, my chart shows I need 22.95' for head pressure but these pumps are only capable of 13'. But, they reduced them down out of the pumps.
You have the pipe lengths right but did you add any for fittings? By my calcs you may be pushing 6-800 gph if they ran output of one pump into input of the second pump to boost your head pressure rating on pump. Two drains into one drain is begging for a flood. I have more drain and return on my 125. I would first contact the builder of this system, send them all your concerns and complaints. If they can't remedy these then either sue or dispute claim with credit card. Stand for sump trash that thing build a stand big enough to set both sumps on at work height have them drain into sump at the back wall. You could mount a pump right below tank( cut out a 90 add external pump have lower head pressure pumps in sump pump to pump to tank). Rip all those valves out I won't say get the BRS valves but home Depot and Lowe's both sell a double union ball valve worth the buy. Some reference check valves personal opinion waste of money and point of failure with the sumps you have you should have plenty of room for volume. Again personal opinion run one sump with skimmer and one with filter roller and fuge( like right side sump skimmer, any reactors, one heater one return pump. Left side drain into filter roller into fuge heater number 2 pump number 2).
 

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